Edible Vancouver Island May/June 2024

ISSUE 27 • MAY/JUN 2024

Celebrating Local Food Stories of Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands

When I was around nine years old, my family moved into a brand-new house, and my mom told me that I could choose the colour of paint and carpet for my bedroom. I was giddy! But I couldn’t decide between pink and purple paint or a pink and-purple patterned wallpaper, so I decided to have all three: one wall was pink, the other purple and the rest of the room was wall papered–and the shag rug was pink with a hint of purple. I loved that room! My love of colour has since become a strong influence in my cooking. My favourite thing to do on a Saturday is to visit the farmers' market and buy fresh produce and flowers, and then put all the beautiful, colourful market finds on my kitchen

PUBLISHER + EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Karen Elgersma

ART DIRECTOR Leanne Von Hollen EDITOR

Danielle Steiner COPY EDITOR Trish Weatherall OPERATIONS MANAGER Corry Matechuk SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Jenny Leung PHOTOGRAPHERS

Heidi Richter Sabrina Currie Elizabeth Nyland Jenny Leung AD DESIGN Leanne Von Hollen ADVERTISING ediblevancouverisland.com/advertise Peggie Terry Thom Klos Kimberly Johnston CONTACT US 140-4392 West Saanich Road Victoria, BC, V8Z 3E9 editor@ediblevancouverisland.com TO SUBSCRIBE Visit us online at ediblevancouverisland.com Edible Vancouver Island is published six times a year. Subscription rate is $42 CAD annually. LETTERS We welcome your feedback. To write to the editor, use the address above or, for the quickest response, email: editor@ediblevancouverisland.com

island and plan what I will make for dinner–and how it will be served. Over the years I have learned from some amazing chefs the art of plating, and Carolyn Heller’s article (page 24) shares many of these insights from local chefs on how they ensure a dish’s colour and other aesthetics will perfectly complement its carefully curated flavours. As we celebrate Pride Month, we are also delighted to feature an article by Adrian Paradis (page 28) on the delightful LGBT2Q+ restaurant Friends of Dorothy, who pride themselves on their technicolour craft cocktails, dazzling décor and over-the-rainbow culinary experience. And since this May/June issue revolves around colour, of course we have to pay homage to the incredibly vibrant community of Victoria’s oldest Chinatown in an article by Charlayne Thornton-Joe (page 30). This issue is full of colour, but it’s truly the people and businesses behind every story that bring life and personality to its pages. We are so inspired by hearing the stories of the people behind the vibrant food and drink scene of Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands–and hope that you are, too. Karen Elgersma

I’d like to dedicate this issue to my beautiful mother-in-law, Joyce Elgersma. You taught me the value of community, connection and faith. You have been the rock of this family, and your unwavering love has given us deep roots and a sense of belonging. We love you always.

We Deliver! Subscribe at ediblevancouverisland.com to have copies delivered right to your door. Check out our website and follow us on social media @EdibleVanIsle for up-to-date events, recipes and news from the food and drink community of Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands and the surrounding areas.

ISSUE 27 • MAY/JUN 2024

ISSUE 27 • MAY/JUN 2024 CHINATOWN • NATURAL DYES • MUSTARD

Celebrating Local Food Stories of Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands

On the cover: Cocktails at Friends of Dorothy by Elizabeth Nyland

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Spring Has Sprung!

This beautiful meal for sharing is the epitome of spring feasting. Creating this recipe on the tail end of winter has me aching for spring. Warm sun, farmers markets, and of course the long awaited spot prawn season. Use the “recipe”below as a guideline only. Go to the market and gather your favourite flavours of spring…local veggies, a loaf of sourdough…do not feel you need to get exactly the veggies I have listed. Then, on your way home, swing by Finest and grab your live prawns!

• INGREDIENTS •

Serves: 4

4slices of sourdough bread, each slice cut into 4 pieces on an angle Zest of 2 lemons, 1clove of garlic, minced 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley 1 tsp kosher salt (plus more for grilling) 2/3 cup olive oil (plus more for grilling)

20 live BC Spot Prawns 1bunch asparagus, woody ends cut off

1bunch spring onions, root tips trimmed and cut lengthwise

1bunch Lacinato kale, ribs removed 1bunch radishes, topped and cut lengthwise 1cup fresh snap peas, strings removed

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SCAN FOR FULL RECIPE

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MAY/JUN 2024 CONTENTS No. 27

1 welcome letter 4 Culinary Science From Sight to Bite by Liisa Salo 8 Feature article Pigments of Nature by Jessica McKeil 14 Current Craving

Muster Up Some Flavour by Heidi Richter

18 in the garden

The Odd and the Edible by Sabrina Currie

24 edible design

The Art of Plating by Carolyn B. Heller 28 business profile Beyond the Rainbow by Adrian Paradis 30 Road trip

Welcome to Chinatown by Charlayne Thornton-Joe

36 Toasts & tastes Breakfast in Bed by Danielle Steiner RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE 16 Pretzel Focaccia Bread with Dijon Beer Sauce 21 French Sorrel Soup 32 Savoury Mushroom Steamed Custard with Sweet Corn & White Miso Mousse

ON THIS PAGE: Veggie wreath with lemon cukes and shishito peppers Photo by Sabrina Currie

ediblevancouverisland.com 3

from sight to bite EXPLORING THE INTERPLAY BETWEEN COLOUR AND FOOD

Photo by John Cullen, courtesy of Pluvio restaurant + rooms

c olour holds significant sway in the world of food, transcending aesthetics to deeply influence our perceptions and experiences, from the vivid hues of produce to the carefully selected palettes used by the food industry. While taste often takes the spotlight in discussions about food preferences, numerous studies underscore the pivotal role that visual cues–particularly colour–play in our decision-making processes and how they can alter our perceptions of taste. NATURE’S PALETTE Nature offers a rich array of colourful foods, urging us to “eat the rainbow.” The vibrant hues not only captivate us visually but also signal the abundance of vital nutrients. Bright colours indicate peak freshness, enhancing health benefits. Our food selections combine instinctive attraction to beauty with learned preferences, favouring intensely colourful natural foods. Colour also serves as a safeguard against spoiled or unsafe foods, often revealing subtle changes before our sense of smell detects spoilage. Foods that are overcooked, losing both taste and nutrients,

WORDS LIISA SALO

are also unappealing. Consider the disappointment upon seeing overcooked broccoli, its irreversible fate announced by a muted, grey-green hue; it’s not exactly appetizing. Our expectations for the colours of different foods are also a factor when it comes to taste. Each of us has a personal history of culinary experiences that shape our expectations, influencing how we perceive flavour, texture and aroma based on visual cues. We naturally seek congruence with expectations, and when that is not present, our warning sensors can be triggered, making us cautious to try something unexpected. If we’re used to watermelon being red, for example, (which was actually not the original colour of the melon, historically) and we are presented with a slice of yellow watermelon, we may be hesitant to take that first bite. Children, many of whom are described as “picky eaters,” are often the most wary, until they have gained enough experience to trust a wider variety of foods. And yet, as much as we are comfortable with the colour and flavour pairings we’re familiar with, coming across unusual or rare items

4 MAY/JUN 2024 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

CULINARY SCIENCE

like purple potatoes, orange cauliflower or white asparagus can be a delight. Modifying the colour of certain foods and drinks ourselves can also be fun now and then. Think of the seasonal themes we associate with colours: orange and black with Halloween, red and pink with Valentine’s Day, green with St. Patrick’s Day and so on. Whether it's by adding drops of food colour to the icing on cookies or cupcakes, or by selecting a colour theme and finding foods to match, intervening with expectations can be positive when we’re willing participants–after all, we do enjoy novelty. THE POWER OF PERCEPTION We tell ourselves that different colours of food have different tastes (I stand by the assertion that white cheddar has a unique flavour), but do our taste buds know the truth or are they easily fooled? Knowing that our brains use visual cues for taste perception, curious scientists have experimented with manipulating colour to see how our taste perception can be “tricked.” As an example of this, a study conducted by a marketer named Wheatley in 1973 had participants eat a meal in dim lighting conditions where the food

A brief experiment with white Skittles, which retained their individual flavours despite being coloured white, resulted in taste confusion and low consumer demand. It’s also been shown that people will eat more of something when there are multiple colour options. A study cited in the Journal of Consumer Research showed that when moviegoers were offered M&M's in 10 colours, they ate 43% more than those who were given the same number of M&M's in seven colours. While natural sources of colour exist from fruits and vegetables (and even bugs!), many processed foods contain artificial colour additives, raising health concerns. Still, manufacturers are driven by the low cost of these additives and the buying behaviour of consumers, who continue to prove that intense colours are preferred. MINDFUL EATING Despite the complexities surrounding the use of colour in food, it remains an integral part of the culinary experience. There’s no question that beautiful–and sometimes unexpected–colours

can enhance our enjoyment of eating and drinking. One example, recently causing a stir in the cocktail world, is the butterfly pea flower. Its mesmerizing deep-blue hue is stunning to behold, but it gets even better: with the addition of ingredients like lemon or tonic water to alter the pH, it morphs into shades of indigo, violet or even fuchsia. This phenomenon beautifully showcases the impactful role that colour can play in the experience of eating and drinking.

had been altered from its natural colours with tasteless food dye. Partway through the meal, the lighting was returned to normal, revealing a steak that was blue, french fries that were green and peas that were red. Most of the participants immediately lost their appetite, and some felt nauseated and became ill. Flavour confusion when it comes to colour has also been demonstrated through experiments where there are intentional mismatches between expected and observed colours in

Our taste perception heavily relies on visual cues, with over 50% of our cerebral cortex devoted to visual processing and only 1-2% involved in taste.

Having an increased awareness around the impact of colour in our food gives us a deeper understanding and appreciation when it comes to food presentation. Perhaps sprinkling chopped parsley or fresh herbs on your plate is providing more than just flavour– it's giving your eyes something to get excited about. Contrast is particularly pleasing. Think of a piece of chocolate cake served in a restaurant. Can you picture a few raspberries, a sprig of mint, and maybe a dusting of powdered sugar on top? These pops of colour and contrast bring a dish to life, elevating it to something special and worthy of the extra cost, even though the added expense is minimal. It's all in the details. By understanding the nuances of colour perception, we can deepen our appreciation for the visual elements that enhance our enjoyment of food. Whether exploring the intense and beautiful colours of fresh produce or getting creative with colour for our own culinary creations, colour enriches the multi-sensory experience of anticipating every delicious and beautiful bite.

beverages. When participants sampled cherry-flavoured drinks coloured orange, they were described as tasting like orange, and those altered to green were perceived as tasting like lime. And, surprising as it may seem, studies on social drinkers and even wine aficionados have found that adding an odourless, tasteless red dye to white wine causes participants to describe it as red wine. The reason for this phenomenon is found in our brains: our taste perception heavily relies on visual cues, with over 50% of our cerebral cortex devoted to visual processing and only 1-2% involved in taste. Accordingly, we rely heavily on visual cues–and colour in particular–to assist us with making a quick assessment of the taste of food. THE ART OF APPETITE APPEAL The food industry strategically employs colour to influence consumer behaviour across various touchpoints, including food, packaging, branding and environments. Colour additives are often used to compensate for colour loss during food processing or to enhance visual appeal. Two foods that would likely be a hard sell if not for these interventions are farmed salmon and hot dogs. Health concerns, environmental threats and animal welfare aside, if the true colours of farmed salmon and hot dogs were left alone, their unappetizing grey colour would cause sales to plummet.

Liisa Salo is a content creator and editor living in Victoria. As someone who is highly sensitive to colour, she finds joy in appreciating the spectrum of colours present in food.

ediblevancouverisland.com 5

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Beacon Law Centre is thrilled to introduce and welcome Paula J Bowering and Brittany Buna to the firm. They look forward to helping you navigate significant life events, maximizing your prosperity and peace of mind. Paula practices in the areas of estate planning, estate administration, cohabitation agreements, residential real estate and co-ownership agreements. She obtained her law degree from the University of Alberta in 2011. She clerked with the Provincial Court of Alberta, articled with the Attorney General of BC, worked with the Attorney General of Alberta and the Alberta Law Reform Institute, and worked as a sole practitioner before joining Beacon Law in 2024. Her “whole-person-whole-life” approach is rooted in commitment to helping people manage the legal issues of their everyday lives. She regards it a privilege to provide legal services that help people create security and stability in their lives. Brittany is excited to offer services in corporate, commercial, real estate, and matrimonial estate planning, though she has been known to offer services in a variety of other areas due to her past legal experience in litigation. She graduated from Fresno State University with a business human resources degree and received her Juris Doctorate from Thompson Rivers University. She is also a serial entrepreneur and a teacher at both Capilano University and Camosun College, where she teaches business law and legal skills classes. Brittany describes herself as an old soul who simply enjoys helping people. She has a natural ability to connect with clients of all ages, and she prides herself on giving sound, fair advice to her clients and finding creative ways to achieve their goals.

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6 MAY/JUN 2024 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

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ediblevancouverisland.com 7

EDIBLE FEATURE

pigments OF NATURE

Local artists use natural dyes to bring beauty and colour to textiles

community is reviving the lost traditions and passionately sharing knowledge about ingredients, recipes and techniques to all those who will listen. FORAGED, FAMILIAR AND REPURPOSED Natural dyes come from a lot of surprising sources. Yes, turmeric, blackberries and beets initially come to mind, but the natural dye recipe book is expansive. Janna Maria Vallee, Sunshine Coast textile artist and owner of Everlea Yarn, is one local artist who has dedi cated her career to exploring the world of natural dyes. She dyes a line of merino wool yarns with colours sourced from both familiar and unexpected places. She uses the sawdust from her workshop, like Osage, for a true yellow and purple heart for olive hues. Or she'll collect foraged finds from around her Sunshine Coast home. Vallee will even pull from farther afield, like indigo and cochineal, to expand the colour spectrum of her offerings.

Model is Chauntelle Atcheynum, Photo by Christine Wieting of SeaDog Designs

b oth the palette and process of natural dyes have a way of draw ing people in; the rusty reds, marine blues and sunny peaches have an indescribable magic you just can't find in synthetics. For millennia, dyeing was an entirely natural process, with leaves, bark and wood, roots, flowers, fruits and even insects creating a rainbow of fibre colourings. But these days, most of the textile in dustry revolves around synthetics, following the development of the first synthetic dye in 1857. More predictable and scalable, synthetics swallowed up the traditional dye markets–and subsequently the know-how. Yet among today's artists, historians and creatives, these traditional techniques are making a quiet comeback. This small but growing WORDS JESSICA MCKEIL

Photo by JFelicia Lo

There is a lot of tinkering between the ingredients, fabrics and techniques, and there are often many rounds of experimentation.

8 MAY/JUN 2024 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

For anyone curious about the process of working with naturally dyed textiles, Vallee regularly hosts weaving parties at her Madeira Park studio on the Sunshine Coast and workshop pop ups across BC. You can find a schedule of events on her website. dip into dyes

Another local designer, Christine Wieting, the Salt Spring-based maker behind SeaDog Designs, has also fallen in love with natural dyes, specifically avocado pits. She uses pits repurposed from kitchen waste sourced from Dos Amores Tortilleria to produce warm tans and peach blushes across the dresses, kimonos and pillowcases in her collections. A LABOUR OF LOVE One thing was clear after speaking with both Vallee and Wieting: dyeing naturally is a long and often meandering process. Nothing is as simple as a quick dip in a dye vat for a bright, colour-fast final product. Take Wieting's process of dying with avocado pits as an example of why you can't expect to complete a piece in a day. SeaDog Designs is a decidedly slow fashion enterprise, especially when Wieting uses the natural dyeing process. For her, "It takes at least a week of each day doing a little bit of work: making the dye one day, soaking it, hanging it to dry, putting the elastic band design on it and soaking it in soda ash. Then the next day you add the colour, then hand paint it." Over a dozen steps result in a one-of-a-kind kimono with hand-painted detailing. Vallee's process for dyeing her line of organic wool yarns requires just as much patience, if not more. In her case, finishing a skein of yarn can take upwards of a month thanks to the dozen or more steps, including mordanting (a process to improve light and wash fastness), dyeing, washing, curing and several stages of drying. All these steps, while critical to the outcomes, are also what make natural dyeing so fascinating. There is a lot of tinkering between the ingredients, fabrics and techniques, and there are often many rounds of experimentation. But that's all part of the magic with natural dyes. They all have unique personality traits that you have to learn to get along with. It takes time to understand each ingredient’s quirks–but for those with patience, the payoffs are incomparable. THE ALLURE OF NATURAL DYES When was the last time you heard anyone wax poetic about diphenylmethane de rivatives or triphenylmethane, two common ingredients in the synthetics industry? Yet when fibre artists and designers speak about natural dyes, they light up as they describe every single nuance within the process and the palette. Vallee explains, "I just tend to prefer the way natural dyes look but as an artist, they're very convenient; they always harmonize with each other. So no matter what I do, it looks good. There's no clashing that happens." Another benefit for Vallee is that when she teaches weaving workshops, she doesn't have to focus so much on colour theory because the naturally dyed yarns all seamlessly flow together. Wieting specifically saves the natural process for her specialty collections, going all-in on avocado pits. As she says of the colour, "It's so unexpected, you really wouldn't expect it to be that pinky-peach. It's such a beautiful colour, and you can't really replicate it with non natural dyes. It's really special." Both Wieting and Vallee are unanimous in their love for dyeing with botanicals. As Vallee says, "It's a preference of palette," but for both artists, it's clear that it's also the thoughtful and meditative process that has drawn them into its warm embrace.

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Jessica McKeil is a writer who lives, eats and explores from her home base of Salt Spring Island, Canada. When not writing she’s out in the woods collecting foraged wild botanicals for all kinds of crafty projects.

ediblevancouverisland.com 9

Spring into vibrant experiences in Parksville Qualicum Beach

Spring in Parksville Qualicum Beach represents everything the season should be: vibrant and colourful and teeming with fun opportunities. As we tip into the long days of summer, it’s the perfect time to enjoy local experiences, especially when so many businesses are offering enticing specials that you’d be remiss not to enjoy. And there’s really no excuse to miss out when you can find so many current deals and offers (like the ones in this article!) at myPQB.ca/deals.

SWEET DREAMS Before the chaos of a full summer, take advantage of shoulder season rates. From April 18-June 15, Pathfinder Camp Resorts in Parksville has an economical option to stay for four nights but only pay for three. With the warm temperatures of May and June, why not get a head start on camping season? After all, you can never enjoy too many s’mores or late nights staring at the stars. If camping isn’t your vibe, don’t worry; you can also save during May and June with consecutive nights stays at Tigh-Na-Mara Seaside Spa Resort & Conference Centre. Staying three or four

nights in a row gives you 25% off; five or six gives you 30% off; and seven or more consecutive nights will save you 35%. And if you’re a Vancouver Island resident, you can save 20% off their best season rate for any stay until July 1. BOTTOMS UP There aren’t many better ways to usher in the warmer seasons than with a cold pint of beer on a sunshine-filled day. Rusted Rake Brewing Company offers outdoor seating so you can enjoy the fresh air and surrounding landscape while taking advantage of their Monday Happy Hour from 3-6pm, or their Almost Friday

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yourself in the vibrant colours of the landscape. For a little extra adventure, you could even add on an afternoon caving adventure or sunset whale watching experience. After all that hiking, imagine settling into a hot tub to ease your sore muscles while you gaze over the sparkling ocean, and then melting into a luxurious spa treatment before enjoying a two-course lunch at Pacific Prime Restaurant. Well, that’s exactly whatyou can do with Stonewater Spa’s Weekday Spa Escape Packages. With $155 and $198 packages available, any weekday can feel like a holiday when you’re getting pampered, making it worth the visit whether it’s just for the day or as an addition to your multi-day Parksville Qualicum Beach experience. COME VISIT! Parksville Qualicum Beach has so much to offer when it comes to hyper-local dining expersiences, outdoor exploration and peaceful vacation options. Every season offers new things to do and see in the region, and with businesses offering deals throughout the year, you’ll quickly discover that it’s easy to find an excuse to visit. Make sure to bookmark myPQB.ca/deals to keep up-to-date on special offers that will have you eagerly packing your bags for hikes, happy hours, spa escapes and more.

Thursdays on–you guessed it–Thursdays, when they offer $6 pints from 5-9pm. Cedars Restaurant and Lounge offers Happy Hour on Thursdays to Mondays from 4-6pm in their restaurant, lounge and patio so you can enjoy discounted drink prices to accompany your seating in any of the locations. And if you want to go out on a Tuesday or Wednesday instead, they can serve you up some half-priced appetizers in the lounge from 2:30-10pm. For the trivia lovers amongst us, Monday nights are all set for you at Deez Bar & Grill. Show off your music trivia knowledge while you enjoy all-night Happy Hour specials. To really sweeten the deal, they even offer door prizes–and the opportunity to win round-trip tickets to Vancouver and two Canucks game tickets! RELAXING VIBES At myPQB.ca/deals you’ll also find deals that extend beyond accommodation and dining, like the mid-Island day tour with Tales on Trails for just $180. Beginning May 17, the tour includes beautiful hikes to a waterfall and a viewpoint swing, an interpretive nature walk, a delicious lunch and visits to the highly Instagram able Hole in the Wall and world-renowned Cathedral Grove. Exploring the luscious nature of Vancouver Island is truly good for the soul, and May and June are the perfect months to immerse

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Things to Do

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Adoration for mustard is no modern phenomenon– it’s been making eyes water for millennia.

Mustard is one of the most popular and beloved condiments, with an international array of strengths, flavours and textures to show for it.

14 MAY/JUN 2024 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

CURRENT CRAVING

muster up some flavour Mustard: the classic condiment that packs a punch

WORDS + PHOTO HEIDI RICHTER

w hen it comes to condiments, there are few that can hold a candle to mustard. Tangy, spicy and full of umami, there is nothing I’d rather slather rye bread with, dip my veggies into or dress my salads with. At any given moment, there are likely three open jars in my fridge and several in waiting for those moments when I’ve run out–but let’s be real, I’d never let that happen. Mustard is the indispensable culinary hero most people, including myself, couldn’t do without. However, adoration for mustard is no modern phenomenon–it’s been making eyes water for millennia. Though archaeological evidence is lacking for the very first domesticated mustard species, its wild predecessors were well established in Chinese and Indian cuisine dating back 6000 years. Yet the earliest use of mustard seed dates back even further, according to Sanskrit texts. Though mustard seeds have been used widely throughout history, we likely have the Romans to thank for the very first prepared condiment. Ground mustard seed combined with unfermented grape must formed what was referred to as “mustum-ardens” or “burning must,” which was used for medicinal as well as culinary purposes. Mustard preparation was later adopted by the French, primarily in the Dijon region, and spread its way across Europe and North America thereafter. Today, mustard is one of the most popular and beloved condiments, with an international array of strengths, flavours and textures to show for it. Intensely hot, sharp, bitter and pungent, mustard seeds create the foundation for all prepared mustard. The type and combination of seeds along with the production method gives rise to the many well-known and contemporary flavours we see today. Three varieties of cultivated seeds–yellow, brown or black–offer varying degrees of heat and can be used whole, bruised, cracked or ground to release more or less of their pungent oils. The degree of pungency is further enhanced or reduced by the type and temperature of the liquid used–ironically, hot water and acidic liquid, like vinegar, will produce a more mild mustard, with hotter varieties using little or no vinegar and colder water. There is a mustard for almost every taste and a favourite variety for many traditional dishes. Generally speaking, hotter varieties such as English, brown, Chinese or German are excellent paired with meaty sandwiches, sausages or roasts. Dijon always make a great fit for vinaigrette or sauce and American yellow is an easy choice for burgers and dogs. A dish of whole grain mustard fits seamlessly

on charcuterie boards, and honey or spirit-infused mustard is an excellent dip for veggies or crispy breaded chicken. Of course, mustard isn’t reserved solely for dipping and spreading; it makes a brilliant marinade for meat and fish and can even be used in (not just on) bread, with mustard buns being a prime example. Nevertheless, there are no hard and fast rules for mustard use–a nose-tingling hot mustard is perfectly acceptable for carrot sticks, in my opinion. While it’s tempting to consider myself a global contender for the most mustard consumed annually, that award actually goes to the UK, Germany and France. Predictably, Europe, as a whole, is the largest consumer of prepared mustard, though production of mustard seeds sits chiefly with Nepal, Russia and Canada. Being a cool-season crop, mustard plants flourish in Canada’s northern climate, with the first commercial mustard production beginning in Alberta in the 1930s. Today, Saskatchewan is home to 75% of Canada’s mustard seed production for global export. But it’s not just seeds: artisanal mustard producers can be found across Canada as well, with several located here on the Island: Qualicum’s Yellow Deer Mustard creates gourmet flavours like curry, dill pickle and whiskey maple, and any one of Two Crow’s beauti fully handcrafted mustards would elevate your next sandwich. Heidi Richter is a Nanaimo-based food photographer and recipe developer whose German upbringing fostered an endless appreciation for mustard, particularly the hot ones. thesimplegreen.com @the_simple_green

LOCAL MUSTARD LOCATIONS

The Mustard Lady , Courtney | themustardladycv.com Yellow Deer Mustard , Qualicum | yellowdeermustard.com Goats on the Roof Mustard , Coombs shop.oldcountrymarket.com/products/goats-on-roof-mustard Two Crows Craft Foods , Victoria | twocrowsmustard.com Sarah's Staples , North Saanich | sarahsstaples.ca

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pretzel focaccia bread with dijon beer sauce

RECIPE + PHOTO HEIDI RICHTER

Crispy, salty and pillowy, this pretzel focaccia bread is perfectly paired with Dijon beer dipping sauce. Whole grain and Dijon mustard are used here; however, for a hotter dip, use a German medium hot (mittelscharf) mustard instead of Dijon– additional honey can be added to offset the heat, if need be. Ingredients for the pretzel focaccia dough: 1 tsp active dry yeast 1 cup warm water (100°F) 1 tsp granulated sugar 2 ¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tsp sea salt 2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Ingredients for the dijon beer sauce: 2 Tbsp unsalted butter 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour ¾ cup light beer 3 oz aged white cheddar, grated 2 Tbsp Dijon mustard 1 Tbsp whole grain mustard 1 Tbsp honey Method for the pretzel focaccia: In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine yeast, water and sugar. Allow to stand for about 5 minutes or until the mixture starts to foam. Add the flour, salt and olive oil to the yeast mixture. Using an electric mixer fitted 2 tsp baking soda 1/3 cup hot water 2 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted flaky sea salt for topping

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with a dough hook, mix the dough on low speed until all the flour is incorporated. Continue mixing and kneading for 1-2 minutes or until the dough is smooth and elastic (slightly sticky is ok). Using a rubber spatula, shape the dough into a rough ball. Cover and let rise in a warm place for about 2-2½ hours or until doubled in volume. Generously grease an 8x12 inch baking pan. Once the dough has doubled in volume, deflate it and scrape it out of the bowl into the prepared pan. Gently shake the pan to allow the dough to settle somewhat evenly (the second proof will help it fill the pan more). In a large measuring cup, combine baking soda and hot water and stir until the foam dissipates, then brush a light layer over the top of the dough (there will be extra for an additional coat). Place the dough in a warm place to proof for 1 more hour. Preheat oven to 450°F. Gently brush the baking soda water over the dough again, then bake for 10 minutes in the preheated oven. Carefully remove the dough from the oven, then brush the top with the melted butter and sprinkle evenly with flaky sea salt. Return the bread to the oven for another 10-12 minutes or until the top is browned and crispy and the edges are golden. Remove from oven and allow to cool in the pan for 5 minutes before placing on a wire rack to cool completely. Method for the dijon beer sauce: In a medium-sized saucepan, add butter and melt over medium heat. Whisk in the flour until well combined and it starts to brown. Whisk in the beer until smooth and the mixture comes to a light simmer. Add in the cheese and whisk until melted, smooth and bubbly. Remove from the heat and stir in the mustards and honey. Serve warm with sliced pretzel focaccia.fitted with a dough hook, mix the dough on low speed until all the flour is incorporated. Continue mixing and kneading for 1-2 minutes or until the dough is smooth and elastic (slightly sticky is ok).

YELLOW DEER MUSTARD Handmade small batch craft mustard using Canadian mustard seed and locally sourced ingredients when possible. @yellowdeermustard | yellowdeermustard.com

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AND THE EDIBLE the odd

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IN THE GARDEN

WORDS + PHOTO SABRINA CURRIE 35 unique and unusual vegetables to grow this year

t his gardener’s favourite season is here! I’ve waited out the cold months and now I can finally start planting. I’ve got the usual garden suspects and a few new ones to try out. Over the years, I’ve tried many new and unusual vegetables, some more successful than others, but all fun to try. Space, sun, moisture requirements and time to maturity are all factors I’ve considered in this list. These can all be grown in Zones 7-9, with many able to stand much colder temperatures. Choose what suits your own garden’s strengths best and add more flavour, colour and adventure to your garden this year. GREEN Mache, also known as corn salad, is a mild tasting, slightly tart green with a hint of sweetness. Plant it once and let the last few go to seed, and it will self-sow itself each year. It pops up early; mine started growing in mid-February this year, making it the first salad greens of the season in my garden. This tender green is most common in salads but also a great addition to sandwiches, smoothies, soup and pesto. Puntarelle is a unique-looking chicory from Italy that grows a bundle of stalks with jagged pointy leaves that look a bit like common dandelion leaves (puntarelle is in the dandelion family). It is slightly bitter with a hint of fennel flavour and when in season, Italians serve it as a simple appetizer salad dressed with a bold garlic anchovy dressing. Soak chopped puntarelle in cold water and it will form curly spirals. Sorrel is a favourite that I’ve grown as a perennial for years now. Light tasting with a definite flavour of lemon when served raw, it’s famous as the star of sorrel soup and the famous French recipe, salmon with sorrel sauce. It is a hardy plant that starts early in the year and survives light frosts in the fall. Plant it once and it will come back each year in the same spot. It is quite prolific, so 1-3 plants are plenty for most gardeners. WILD Salsola komarovii, or it’s Italian counterpart, Salsola soda, are also known as saltwort, monk’s beard or agretti. It is naturally salty, drawing sodium from the ground as it grows. This variety of saltwort needs lots of warmth to germinate but then grows quickly. An annual that self-seeds easily, it’s crunchy, mild, salty and can be slightly bitter or sour. It is enjoyed raw in salads and sushi or steamed and served as a side vegetable. It can also be dried and ground into a healthy salt substitute. Fiddleheads are the new shoots of the ostrich fern or Matteuccia struthiopteris. The small, coiled ferns must be picked when small and tender if you want to eat them. Fiddlehead ferns like shade with some dappled sunlight along with moist but well drained soil.

They are a perennial so once the crowns are established, you can harvest about 1/3 of the new fiddleheads each year. Fiddleheads must be cooked before eating, but they are easy and delicious simply boiled or steamed and dressed with butter, salt and pepper. Seakale is another wild vegetable that will grow easily in our climate. It prefers the moist and cool of Zone 4-8 climates. Pick the shoots young when only about four to five inches high and cook as you would asparagus. If it gets older and flowers, enjoy the edible flowers in salads and as garnishes. ROOT Oca is grown and harvested for its starchy root and is common in South American countries. It is a compact and attractive plant. With a taste somewhere between a potato and Jerusalem artichoke, Oxalis tuberosa is cooked and used like potatoes but it can also be eaten raw. It has a bit of lemon flavour (from the oxalic acid, just like it’s relative sorrel), and the leaves can be enjoyed in salads too. Lotus root won’t be for everyone but if you have a pond, it can be for you. It’s an easy pond crop to grow in Zones 4-10 but needs protection from freezing in the winter. You might recognize this beautiful tuber from bags of fancy chips or a garnish with your sushi. Lotus root has a pattern of holes in the middle that give it a striking look when sliced crosswise. Small young roots can be eaten raw but more mature ones should be cooked. Celeriac takes a long time to reach maturity but is attractive in the garden and quite pest resistant. Start seedlings indoors in mid-late winter for a fall harvest or start in spring or summer for a harvest the following year. It is delicious roasted or mashed, similar to potatoes but with much less starch. White salsify (true salsify) and black salsify is a long taproot vegetable like carrots, parsnips and horseradish. It is a very easy vegetable to grow. Sow it from seed right into the ground because it doesn’t tolerate transplanting well and choose a spot with plenty of sun. With a flavour somewhat like an artichoke, it can be peeled and cooked like parsnips or cauliflower. Wear gloves when peeling or boil it for 10 minutes before peeling to avoid the messy white latex-like sap. ORNAMENTAL Artichokes and cardoons are stunning plants in a garden. They are large plants that take up a lot of space so they are better off in larger gardens. In warmer climates, artichokes and cardoons are perennial. If covered, they can survive in our climate as a perennial, or you can grow them as annuals which has been what I have done. I’ve had up to 10 artichokes on one plant when the seeds were sown early and raised in a greenhouse before being transplanted out in May. Both are delicious steamed and served with melted butter or

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...AND THE LIST GOES ON! I don’t have the space to list all the fun and adventurous edibles you can grow, but here are a few more varieties that can also be grown locally: 1. Black nebula carrots (bright purple vegetable that keeps their colour when cooked) 2. Castelfranco radicchio 3. Chayote 4. Chinese pink celery 5. Chioggia striped beets 6. Cucamelons and lemon cucumbers 7. Dragon tongue bush beans and purple King Tut peas 8. Edamame beans 9. Egyptian walking onions–like chives but hardier 10. Glass gem corn (a multicoloured, Easter egg-like corn) 11. Ground cherries, tomatillos and boldly coloured Brad's atomic grape tomatoes 12. Horseradish 13. Japanese eggplant 14. Miners lettuce (aka Claytonia) 15. Peruvian purple potatoes with fiery colours 16. Pink watermelon radishes or black Spanish radish 17. Purple sprouting broccoli 18. Shishito peppers

used in many other creative recipes including stuffed. Baby artichokes can be trimmed and shaved thin to eat raw in salads. Kohlrabi is a crisp and tasty vegetable related to kale but it develops a large, edible bulb at its base which is the best part. Be sure to pick it before it gets too large and woody. Kohlrabi grows well on Vancouver Island. You can choose white or green, but I love to plant the purple ones for extra colour in my garden. Romanesco and Fioretto are a great alternative to broccoli and cauliflower. Romanesco is a gorgeous chartreuse-green with uniquely patterned florets and Fioretto is a sprouting cauliflower with long stalks. These grow similarly to broccoli and cauliflower and can be used in all the same recipes. They make for stunning vegetable platters and salads. Yardlong beans, also known as asparagus beans are super long, stringless green beans that are harvested at one to three feet long! Plants start slowly as a small bush and when the heat hits the plant grows rapidly up, like pole beans. With pretty flowers and an impressive amount of growth, these are lovely for areas that can use a little summertime privacy. Pick these long beans before the seeds fatten for tender eating and to keep it producing. With an aversion to rules, Sabrina Currie has tried growing many fruits, herbs and veggies unusual to our area–though ginger, lemongrass and peanuts were fails. Although with a larger greenhouse she might try again...Find her recipes for many of these unusual veggies on her website, sabrinacurrie.com

19. Shiso (used as herb and salad green) 20. Strawberry spinach (a wild species) 21. Sunchokes

SAVOUR EVERY MOMENT Create memories at Merridale’s Red Wagon Picnics

BOOK YOUR PICNIC NOW

merridale.ca

Merridale Cidery & Distillery 1230 Merridale Road, Cobble Hill BC

20 MAY/JUN 2024 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

french sorrel soup This soup is delicious served hot or cold and a great way to enjoy this easy and long-producing vegetable. The addition of egg yolk was inspired by potage Germiny, a traditional French sorrel soup that is enriched the same way. Don’t be alarmed by the deep olive green colour; unfortunately, sorrel doesn’t retain its vibrant green colour after cooking. RECIPE + PHOTO SABRINA CURRIE

METHOD Wash and trim sorrel leaves, removing any brown, stringy stems as needed. Roll together and slice thinly into a chiffonade. Melt butter over medium–low heat in a large saucepan and add the leeks. Sauté until translucent and soft, then add the sorrel and cook until it is wilted. Add potatoes and stock and bring it back to a simmer. Continue to cook on medium–low for about 20 minutes or until potatoes are soft. Mash with a potato masher or fork until potatoes are a coarse purée. (Don’t use an immersion blender or it will make the potatoes gluey.) Whisk egg yolks and cream together well, and then whisk in a ladle of hot soup to temper the mixture. Pour it into the soup and stir thoroughly. Return just to a simmer and then remove from heat immediately. Taste, season with salt and pepper and serve while hot, or refrigerate and serve cool with chilled garnished as you like.

INGREDIENTS 5 cups sorrel ¼ cup butter

1 cup leeks, sliced 1 cup potato, diced 4 cups chicken stock ½ cup heavy cream 2 egg yolks salt and pepper optional garnishes: fresh toasted croutons, shelled peas or pea shoots, snipped chives, chervil, baby sorrel or mache

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EAT. DRINK. LOCAL PATIOS

Vancouver Island is home to some of the most beautiful restaurants in Canada, where you can enjoy stunning views while dining al fresco on a patio. From seaside pubs to charming cafes, these establishments offer patio dining that create a unique culinary experience set against the stunning backdrop of Vancouver island’s natural beauty. So sit back, relax and enjoy the fresh air and delicious food at these local patio restaurants.

Photo courtesy of Crown Isle

Morningstar Post-game (or just because you are hungry) join us on the patio at Morningstar Golf Club for a cold pint or a glass of wine and something tasty from the menu. And enjoy the view across the first tee as you share details of the day’s round… embellishing as needed! 525 Lowry’s Road, Parksville morningstargolf.com 250-248-2244

Crown Isle Resort Enjoy fresh flavours seven days a week with Chef Dan Vogt’s new spring menu. Start your day with breakfast in the Atrium. Savour lunch and dinner in the Timber Room or on the spacious patio, overlooking the 18th green and Comox Glacier. Daily features, happy hours, great cocktails. Reservations are encouraged. @crownisle 399 Clubhouse Drive, Courtenay Crownisle.com/dining 250-703-5088

Aura Waterfront Restaurant + Patio Discover Aura Restaurant's Patio, where local freshness meets global flair. Overlooking Victoria's iconic Inner Harbour, our innovative team crafts dishes that surprise and delight. With shareable plates and diverse flavours, every bite offers a new adventure. Savour bold tastes amidst stunning views, and let your palate travel the world. @aurayyj 680 Montreal Street, Victoria aurarestaurant.ca 250-414-6739

Syrens Bistro | Poets Cove Resort Indulge your senses at Syrens Bistro, located at Poets Cove Resort on Pender Island. The patio at Syrens offers a culinary escape, blending panoramic water views with locally inspired dishes. Savour the freshest ingredients in a relaxed coastal atmosphere, making every meal an unforgettable experience amidst nature's splendor. IG: poets_cove 9801 Spalding Road, South Pender Island Poetscove.com 250-629-2100

Pacific Moon Rising Bar & Grill Located in the beautiful Nanoose Bay, come and enjoy the best patio experience, food and service. Our menu boasts local oceanwise seafood as well as many dishes and appetizers that can please all pallets, including many gluten free options. Every table lets you take in spectacular views and outstanding sunsets. Reservations recommended. 1600 Stroulger Rd #1, Nanoose Bay pacificmoonrising.com 250-468-0474

3rd Street Café 3rd Street Café is where the locals eat. Offering breakfast and lunch, they’re known for their Bennies as well as their homemade hollandaise sauce, fries and soup. Open for eat-in and takeout from 8am-3pm daily. @3rdstreetcafesidney 2466 Beacon Ave, Sidney 250-656-3035

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