Edible Vancouver Island May/June 2024

EATING WITH YOUR EYES Gerald Tan thinks beyond flavour, texture and appearance. As the executive pastry chef at the Fairmont Empress Hotel, where he oversees the pastry program for all the Victoria hotel’s outlets, Tan says he wants the desserts that he creates to capture the classic feel of the iconic property. Born and raised in the Philippines, Tan came to North America at age 20, working first in the United States and then across Canada, assuming his position at the Fairmont Empress in 2023. His responsibilities range from plated desserts in Q Restaurant, sweets ordered through room service, desserts for banquets and other events and pastries served during the hotel’s ever-popular afternoon tea. On the seasonally changing tea menu, Tan is featuring ingredients that reflect the hotel’s image. In the winter, he created a bergamot rosewater tart to highlight the hotel’s Rose Garden and its signature rose bath amenities. During the warmer months, he uses seasonal fruits like B.C. peaches or cherries, and includes lavender in more pastries, again showcasing what grows on the property. As he builds the afternoon tea menu, the chef explains, “I always think of how the desserts would look on the stand. When you first get the stand, you eat with your eyes first, so it has to look good. I like different shapes. There’s always something round,” perhaps a tart or mousse, a layer cake or other rectangular treat and a macaron, though its colour and flavour vary. “A cookie is always nice,” Tan adds. TRY IT AT HOME For home cooks who want to craft more artful dishes, McCleery suggests that a sharp knife is your most important tool. You’ll be able to cut more cleanly, which will make your ingredients look better. Barr advises shopping for ceramics or other dishware that fit your style. “Our plates are very much the expression of our restaurant, because they were designed for us.” As you arrange your ingredients on those dishes, “don’t make your plate too busy.” “I always do trials,” Tan adds. If the plate initially doesn’t look the way you want, “keep trying.” But most importantly, McCleery advises letting the ingredients speak for themselves. “There's something quite stunning about a potato, glistening with butter with some chives on it, on a really nice plate. That, to me, is beautiful.” Vancouver-based writer Carolyn B. Heller can make some nice looking salads but she’s excited to try out the plating tips from these Island chefs. Her articles have appeared in publications ranging from Travel + Leisure, BBC Travel, and Lonely Planet, to Montecristo Magazine and the Forbes Travel Guide.

Photo courtesy of The Fairmont Empress

Photo by Andy Wardrop, courtesy of Pluvio restaurant + rooms

26 MAY/JUN 2024 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND