FSR November 2022

NO. 107 FULL-SERVICE RESTAURANTS | THOUGHT LEADERSHIP FOR 10 YEARS

FRANCHISING WITH THE FAMILY SUSHI FOR THE MASSES

SPANISH PORK COMES STATESIDE LAUNCHING A WINE CLUB

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SECRET SUBURBS THE OF THE

FROM NEW ENGLAND TO THE SOUTHWEST, THESE MID SIZE MARKETS ARE RIPE WITH OPPORTUNITY 7 HOT MARKETS HOW CHEF THOMAS HARVEY IS CREATING A COMMUNITY RESTAURANT PLUS

WHY MORE RESTAURANTS ARE SKIPPING DOWNTOWN IN FAVOR OF SUBURBIA

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CONTENTS 42

FSR November2022 No. 107

28 e Place to Be ese seven hot markets are uti lizing their economic prowess, population influx, agricultural infrastructure, and other amenities to foster restaurant growth. 42 Secrets of the Suburbs Once derided for bland dining scenes, the suburbs are becoming a destination for city-weary trans plants and restaurateurs looking for fresh opportunities. CHEFS & INGREDI ENT S 15 Like Mother, Like Son Atlanta chef Ron Hsu’s growing restaurant portfolio showcases classical techniques, global flavors, and family inspiration—his first concept, Lazy Betty, is even named after his mother. 18 Hungering for Jamón Debates around authenticity aside, Spanish pork brings nuanced taste, myriad menu applications, and cen turies of culinary tradition. L IQUID INT EL L I GENCE 21 Everybody in the Club Wine clubs helped restaurants con nect with guests at the height of Covid, but even with people dining out again, these in-house programs are sticking around.

THE YARD BRINGS A CITY DINING EXPERIENCE TO THE SUBURBS.

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33 RESTAURANT GROUP / ADOBE STOCK

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CONTENTS

FSRmagazine.com November2022 No. 107

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59 64

SAL E S & BUS I NE SS DE VE LOPMENT

ED I TOR I AL

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Danny Klein dklein@wtwhmedia.com EDITOR Nicole Duncan nduncan@wtwhmedia.com SENIOR EDITOR Ben Coley bcoley@wtwhmedia.com SENIOR EDITOR Callie Evergreen cevergreen@wtwhmedia.com DIRECTOR OF CUSTOM CONTENT Peggy Carouthers pcarouthers@wtwhmedia.com CUSTOM CONTENT ASSOCIATE EDITOR Charlie Pogacar cpogacar@wtwhmedia.com CUSTOM CONTENT ASSOCIATE EDITOR Kara Phelps kphelps@wtwhmedia.com ART DIRECTOR Erica Naftolowitz enaftolowitz@wtwhmedia.com PRODUCTION MANAGER Mitch Avery mavery@wtwhmedia.com CUS TOM MED I A S TUD I O PRODUC T I ON & DE S I GN

GROUP PUBLISHER Greg Sanders gsanders@wtwhmedia.com NATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR Eugene Drezner 919-945-0705 edrezner@wtwhmedia.com NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Amber Dobsovic 919-945-0712 adobsovic@wtwhmedia.com NATIONAL SALES MANAGER John Krueger 919-945-0728 jkrueger@wtwhmedia.com NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Edward Richards 919-945-0714 erichards@wtwhmedia.com ADMI N I S TR AT I ON 919-945-0700 www.fsrmagazine.com/subscribe FSR is provided without charge upon request to individuals residing in the U.S. who meet subscription criteria as set forth by the publisher. REPR I NT S THE YGS GROUP 800-290-5460 fax: 717-825-2150 fsrmagazine@theygsgroup.com Sponsored content in this magazine is provided to the represented company for a fee. Such content is written to be informational and non promotional. Comments welcomed at sponsoredcontent@ fsrmagazine.com. SALES SUPPORT AND DIRECTORY SALES Tracy Doubts 919-945-0704 tdoubts@wtwhmedia.com

ROCK N’ ROLL SUSHI / ANGIE WEBB

F I RS T COURSE 9 The Nuances of Latino Consumers To engage with this increas ingly prominent consumer group, restaurants must first understand the cultural diversity within the greater Hispanic community. 10 The Bar is Back Drinking out may be a discre tionary expense and indul gence, but inflation is doing little to deter imbibers. BACK OF HOUSE 59 The Everyman’s Sushi ON THE RISE Alabama-born Rock N Roll Sushi is differ entiating itself from other brands in the category through music memorabilia and approachable, Ameri canized offerings that can lure sushi novices. 61 All in the Family YOUR TAKE Getting into busi ness with family can be a

dicey proposition, but Angry Crab Shack franchisee Will Gardner, who works along side his four sons, has five tips for success. 64 Start Me Up Years after opening her first restaurant in Atlanta’s Ponce City Market, restaurateur Tal Baum is back with Atrium, which marks her first foray into upscale American fare. AL SO IN THI S I SSUE 4 Highlights from FSRmagazine.com 4 Brand Stories in Print and Online

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6 Editor’s Welcome 63 Advertising Index

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FSR is a registered trademark ® of WTWH Media LLC. FSR is copyright © 2022 WTWH Media LLC. All rights reserved. 1111 Superior Ave., Suite 12600, Cleveland, OH. Printed in USA. The opinions of columnists are their own. Publication of their writing does not imply endorsement by WTWH Media LLC. FSR (ISSN 2325-2154) is published monthly. Periodicals postage paid at Cleveland, OH, and additional entry points. Subscriptions: (800) 662-4834, www.fsrmagazine.com/subscribe. FSR is provided without charge upon request to individuals residing in the U.S. meeting subscription criteria as set forth by the publisher. AAM member. Postmaster: Send address changes to FSR , 101 Europa Drive, Suite 150, Chapel Hill, NC 27517-2380. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any fashion without the expressed written consent of WTWH Media LLC.

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CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN EMBRACES BURGERS As part of a tongue-in-cheek marketing campaign, the brand is “boycotting” pizza in favor of its new West Coast Burger. FSRmagazine.com/CPK-Burgers BENNIGAN’S HITS THE SILVER SCREEN The chain landed a starring role in rom-com About Fate , which not only offers great exposure, it also affirms Bennigan’s years long comeback. FSRmagazine.com/ Bennigans-Hollywood NEXT LEVEL BRANDS GEARS UP FOR ITS SECOND ACT With industry pioneer Chris Sul livan joining the team, the com pany has its eyes on expansion. FSRmagazine.com/Chris-Sullivan

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Welcome

Dreams of a 15-Minute City LAST MONTH, I VISITED A FRIEND in Arlington, Massachusetts—about 10 miles northwest of Boston. I hesitate to call it a suburb because the word brings to mind sprawling communities with homes and businesses stretched far and wide. In these places, walkability is scant, and a car clocks in just after food and shelter in the hierarchy of needs. But then again, I grew up in the Southeast, not New England with its carless, colonial roots. e suburbs have many faces, and I admit I found myself jealous of Arling ton where a trip to the grocery store, hardware store, dry cleaners, local bakery, and any number of restaurants was just a short walk away. Places like this—part city, part town, part suburb—are sometimes referred to as 15-minute cities because just about everything you might need can be reached within 15 minutes. Atlanta-based real estate consul tant Edie Weintraub, who works with restaurants and other small busi nesses, is particularly fond of this term, even though it hasn’t caught hold in the U.S. the way it has in the densely-packed countries of Europe. But that could be changing. “I feel like ultimately, we’re headed in that direc tion,” Weintraub said in an interview for this month’s feature on suburban sprawl ( PAGE 42 ). “If you can be cognizant in designing cities and spaces that give the folks what they need without them having to go to another market, I feel like that’s going to help you survive and thrive.” Restaurants and other retailers might not be city planners, but they have a hand in shaping the future of communities. Take Roots Southern Table as an example. e Dallas suburb of Farmers Branch was instrumen tal in attracting and supporting co-owners Tom Foley and chef Tiffany Derry as they brought the restaurant to fruition. Now, both their business and the city are reaping the benefits of Roots’ presence in an otherwise sleepy town. And the suburban revolution extends beyond revitalized downtowns; it’s also happening in more spread-out communities where malls are being supplanted by mixed-use developments. ese projects may be new builds, but they take the 15-minute (or less) mentality into consid eration. And with fewer workers commuting to the office, it could be easier than ever for restaurants to find success in such developments. e day after flying home from Boston, I found myself briefly annoyed as I piled into my car and drove to work. Along the way, I daydreamed of walking a few blocks to the office or hopping on a commuter bike path. But then I passed a renovated strip mall that’s now home to apartments, restaurants, a yoga studio, and a hair salon, with a library and Target just across the street. I also spotted a few areas where construction crews were extending bike lanes. Durham, North Carolina, might never have Arling ton’s tightly packed grid layout, but that doesn’t mean it can’t become a 15-minute city. And clearly, the area’s restaurants are already onboard.

Nicole@FSRmagazine.com FSRmag @FSRmagazine

On the Cover This month’s cover featuring chef Thomas Harvey was shot by Michael Butcher . Originally from New Zealand and now based in the D.C. area, Butcher specializes in food, event, cityscape, and lifestyle photography. His work has appeared in Northern Virginia and Mid dleburg Life magazines among other titles. To learn more about Butcher, visit butcherphotography.com or follow him on Instagram at @butcherphotography .

NICOLE: LIBBY M C GOWAN / COVER: BUTCHER PHOTOGRAPHY

Nicole Duncan ED I TOR

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FirstCourse

Hispanic consumers account for about a quarter of all restaurant traffic. TheNuancesof LatinoConsumers BY NICOLE DUNCAN Customer engagement begins with ALREADY AN INTEGRAL CUSTOMER BASE for res taurants, Latino consumers are poised to become even more influential in driv ing trends and market growth. Accord ing to the Pew Research Center, Hispanic Americans accounted for more than half (52 percent) of the U.S. population growth greater cultural understanding.

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between 2010 and 2021—surpassing any other ethnic or racial group. In a recent survey, market research firm Numerator found Latino households are 72 percent more likely to dine out six or more times a week compared to the national average. Although quick-service chains,

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FirstCourse

including McDonald’s, Wendy’s, Chick fil-A, and Taco Bell, were cited as favor ites, opportunities abound for full-ser vice restaurants. Last year, data from The NPD Group indicated that since Q2 2020, Hispanic spending at sit-down establishments had surpassed the amount spent at limited-service ones. And as of 2020, Latino consumers accounted for an annual average of 9.8 billion visits— representing about a quarter of total restaurant foot traffic. But in order to engage with these communities, operators must first understand that Hispanic Americans are far from a monolith. “Many brands are missing out on a huge market opportunity by not know ing how to connect with this expanding and diverse population,” wrote Gerry Ramirez, vice president of partnership development at digital media firm My Code, in an opinion piece for AdAge . The Numerator survey didn’t delve into country-specific characteristics, but it did distinguish between larger regions. For example, consumers of South American heritage were more likely to seek out deals, while those of North and Central American descent were 40 and 30 percent, respectively, more likely to make impulse purchases. Still, building long-term relation ships goes beyond discounts and deals. Fifty-eight percent of Hispanic house holds report their cultural heritage is central to their identity—this com pared to 52 percent of Black consum ers, 47 percent of Asian consumers, and 27 percent of white consumers. Experts advise brands to be inten tional in their outreach, warning that consumers will see through marketing attempts that are mere lip service. “Major brands try to do these things without really attempting to under stand our diverse culture, and they often miss the mark,” Trinidad Aguierre, a Hispanic marketing consultant, told NPR in September. “If you’re going to mess up, don’t do it. But if you’re going to attempt it and do it right, it’s going to pay dividends.”

BAR BACK THE IS

EVEN RAMPANT INFLATION isn’t putting a damper on consumers’ eagerness to clink glasses away from home. A September report by data and research firm CGA by NielsenIQ found that nearly half of all consumers surveyed planned to go out for a drink within the next two weeks. Forty-six percent said they haven’t changed their on-premises spend ing habits, and another 32 percent reported they were spending more (due in part to higher F&B prices but also celebratory occasions). CGA also found that imbibers split their alcohol consumption 50/50 between on- and o -premises, with the two channels influencing one another. Forty-two per cent of consumers said they’d try new drinks o - site, and one out of two reported that experiences at restaurants and bars prompted them to buy cer tain drinks for at-home consumption.

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FirstCourse

TIPPING FATIGUE? Na . STUDY AFTER STUDY showed that customers were generous with their tips throughout the pandemic—off-premises amounts even reached all-time highs at the height of shutdowns. Now, even as prices increase across the board, consumers are showing no sign of tipping fatigue. According to POS platform Toast , same-store tipping grew 10 percent in the second quarter of the year compared to Q2 2021. Full-service restaurants averaged a 19.6 percent tipping rate while quick serves hit 16.9 percent. In comparing tips across all 50 states, consumers in Indiana tipped the most (21 percent) while California diners were the most conservative, tipping an average of only 17.5 percent.

ONE BEAR OF A BUSINESS Usually it’s reality shows like “Top Chef” or “Hell’s Kitchen” that lead viewers to flock to restaurants for dishes they’ve seen on TV. But this time around, it’s FX’s “The Bear” that’s whetting appe

tites. The half-hour show follows the high-octane world of a fine-dining chef who returns to Chicago to run his fam ily’s sandwich shop. Now, restaurants specializing in Chicago cuisine are wel coming hungry hordes. According to The New York Times , full-service con cepts like Gino’s East of Chicago in L.A. and Emmett’s in New York watched their Italian beef sandwich orders double over the summer . “The Bear’’ was picked up for a second sea son, meaning these Chicago-centric restaurants might soon face another feeding frenzy.

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CULINARY INSPIRATION AND STORIES FROM INDUSTRY TRAILBLAZERS MENTIONED IN THIS SECTION LAZY BETTY • • • JUNIPER CAFE • • •

BROMA • •

• MDRD

• • • TROPEZÓN

LikeMother, LikeSon

ROASTED BEET SALAD, WITH GRANOLA SABLÉ AND JUNIPER OLIVE OIL JAM IMMERSION, AT LAZY BETTY

ANDREW THOMAS LEE

THE RESTAURANT BUSINESS RUNS IN RON HSU’S FAMILY. His parents established a footprint of Chinese-American restaurants across the South east, and his siblings own Atlanta’s Sweet Auburn BBQ. But hospitality— the real kind that transcends the transactional—is in his blood. The Atlanta based chef/owner of award-winning Lazy Betty, Vietnamese Juniper Cafe, and the forthcoming Humble Pie pizzeria absorbed it through 30-odd years

BY MAGGIE HENNESSY Following in his mother’s footsteps, chef Ron Hsu is growing his portfolio, one restaurant at a time.

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CHEFS & INGREDI ENT S CHEF PROF I LE

of learning from his late mom, Atlanta food icon Betty Hsu. e Taiwan-born Betty came to the U.S. with just $20 but went on to run seven Hunan Village restaurants with husband George in the ’80s and ’90s. She sponsored her parents and all seven sib lings to join her in the U.S. and routinely opened her home to friends and strang ers when they needed a place to stay. “My mother had a very positive influ ence on the community—breaking down barriers through food, employing people, opening her home to people who needed to find their feet,” Hsu says. “ at goes beyond the transaction of coming in, eating, and paying for a meal. You make people feel like part of your every day life, part of your family. at’s real hospitality; that’s what drives me.” Hsu’s mini empire will soon swell to three locations; café and bakery Juni per Cafe debuted last year, and Humble Pie pizzeria is slated to open in the com ing months. Like Betty, Hsu took a big risk leaving his job as creative director at Le Bernardin to bootstrap a fine-din ing restaurant in his hometown. (As did his wife, whose career progression was put on hold.) “But my mentality, which I get from Betty, is give it a shot,” he says. “Go big or go home. Plus, it had to be in the South. New York is all business. I like the small talk in the South; it’s a platform to get to know people.” In Stockbridge, Georgia, where Hsu grew up, the small talk was as charm ing as it was ubiquitous, though racism ran deep. Hsu was sometimes bullied; he recalls one incident at the pool when a white kid spat on him and hurled racial slurs. At home, dedication to hard work and kindness begot resiliency among Hsu and siblings Howard and Anita. Like any restaurant kid, he loathed the hours spent peeling 50-pound bags of onions at Hunan Village instead of running around with friends. But by his teens he became captivated by the fancy plates and French brigade–style kitchens depicted in the trade magazines arriving at the restaurant each month. As he neared the end of undergrad at

JUNIPER CAFE’S IMPERIAL ROLLS WITH PORK, SHIITAKE, AND WOOD EAR MUSHROOMS.

“That goes beyond the transaction of coming in, eating, and paying for ameal. You make people feel like part of your everyday life, part of your family. That’s real hospitality; that’s what drives me.”

the University of Georgia in Athens, he mustered the courage to tell Betty that he intended to go to culinary school once he got his business degree. Instead, she told him to not delay pursuing his pas sion any longer. He enrolled at Le Cordon Bleu in Syd ney, then worked at French-inspired Dish in Atlanta before moving to New

ANDREW THOMAS LEE (4)

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CHEF PROF I LE CHEFS & INGREDI ENT S

York to join the staff of Eric Ripert’s cel ebrated Le Bernardin. During his nearly seven-year tenure, Hsu honed his view point—applying classical French tech niques to a global arsenal of ingredients with a penchant for Asian cuisines. Like Betty, Ripert encouraged Hsu to nurture his creativity. Aching for a place of his own, but knowing the Atlanta market hadn’t historically embraced ultra fine dining, Hsu hosted a yearlong series of pop-ups before opening Lazy Betty in February 2019 with co-owner Aaron Phillips. Just four months later, Betty died following a short bout with cancer. “My mom died so unexpectedly; I never had a good good-bye,” Hsu says. He knew she was worried about the success of his business, but shortly after she passed, the accolades began rolling in. Lazy Betty was a nominee for the 2020 James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant and received similar “best new” nods from Atlanta magazine and Eater , among other publications. Lazy Betty centers around a six- and eight-course tasting menus for $160 and $200, respectively, but its name— winking at Betty’s notoriously unflap pable work ethic—sets a refreshingly laid-back tone. Take Lazy Betty’s caviar service. Irtysh River caviar is paired with crème fraîche, but instead of the stan dard blinis, chopped onion, and egg, the roe arrives with house-made Chinese style scallion pancakes and steamed milk buns. “I like to think of eating at Lazy Betty like if you had a rich uncle with a world class chef,” Hsu quips. “You go to his house where you’re served amazing food and on beautiful china and glassware, but your uncle is there so you can shoot the breeze with him.” Indeed, the restaurant’s mid-cen tury modern aesthetic (think: cognac colored leather seating and lacquered wood tables) are tempered by its indus trial space and lighter touches, like the peacock blue accents in the tiled bar backsplash and the upholstered benches. Long incensed by the tipped-wage structure, Hsu instituted a federal min

imumwage and a 20 percent service fee on customer checks. It took some con vincing among staff, though Lazy Betty has been rewarded with almost negli gible turnover, even despite the pan demic—which resulted in a prolonged closure that furloughed the whole staff. He’s still seeking a pay-structure solu tion at Juniper Cafe, which opened last December. (Currently the all-day cafe tacks on a 20 percent service fee to checks, though front-of-house staff gets the majority of it.) Juniper Cafe fulfills Hsu and Phil lips’ desire for something more casual, especially after both became fathers. e space exudes a relaxed yet playful atmo sphere, with pastel-hued paper lanterns overhead and pops of cerulean, robin’s egg, and other colors enlivening an oth erwise neutral palette. e increasingly pan-Asian and Southern menu leans on its Vietnamese-French roots on the bak ery side, via housemade bánh mì, lami nated pastries, and brioche. Like Lazy Betty, Juniper Cafe has been met with enthusiasm and fanfare. e restaurant was among Bon Appetit ’s 50 Best New Restaurants this year and earned a glowing review from Atlanta magazine, with veteran food critic Chris tiane Lauterbach calling Hsu “one of the best and most original chefs in the city.” Indeed, the enterprising Hsu con tinues to evolve while also empowering his chef team to take more creative con trol of day-to-day menus as he prepares Humble Pie for opening. The storefront will highlight local dairy producers in pies made from locally milled flour with nostalgic toppings like broccoli and farm-fresh cheddar or clam with clam juice dipping sauce. Pizza may seem like a sharp left turn, but Hsu genially replies, “Who doesn’t love pizza?” More importantly, he adds that it’s what his community needs right now. “Everyone is so on edge these days,” he says. “ is is a neighborhood restaurant where you can come, have good food and be treated well, and not get too carried away with what’s going on in the world.” It sounds like something Betty her self might say.

CHEF RON HSU

FAVORITE KITCHEN TOOL: Dumpling rolling pin

THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY IN A FEWWORDS: Helping and serving other people YOUR POST-SHIFT DRINK: Bourbon or whiskey with three or four ice cubes MOST UNDERRATED INGREDIENT: MSG CHEF YOU’D LOVE TOWORK WITH: My mom

ERIC SUN

LAZY BETTY SERVES FINE-DINING FARE LIKE GRILLED LOBSTER (CENTER) ALONGSIDE CRAFT LIBATIONS LIKE KNUCK IF YOU BUCK, WITH RYE, GIN, AND YOGURT (LEFT).

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CHEFS & INGREDI ENT S NOW SERVING

Hungering for Jamón

BY LEIGH KUNKEL American chefs are discovering the many flavors and applications of Spanish pork.

SPANISH PORK IS THE STAR OF MANY TAPAS, INCLUDING CHARCUTERIE BOARDS.

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CHAMPAGNE. KOBE BEEF. Single malt scotch. Some things are so special, so tied to the terroir of their homeland that they cannot be replicated elsewhere. For Spaniards, that food is jamón ibérico, the meat of black-footed pigs native to the Iberian Peninsula made fat by a diet of acorns and then cured for anywhere from 20 to 27 months. For many years, restaurants and consumers couldn’t get jamón ibérico in the U.S. because of export laws. While that’s no longer the case, imports are still

restricted, and some enterprising Ameri can purveyors are trying to replicate the ingredient, whether by importing Ibe rian black-footed pigs or mimicking the curing process. These tactics have incited some back lash from Spanish producers because pork, in all its forms, is foundational to the country’s cuisine. Time and again, the signature protein proves that while it may be one of a kind in taste and qual ity, it encompasses a multitude of menu applications.

“The versatility of pork is its strength,” says Aubree Arndt, chef at Broma in Mountain View, California. “It’s lean but flavorful; it’s between light and dark meat; it can be braised, grilled, seared, rendered, smoked, cured. … Even the fat is extremely tasty.” Small bites One of the best-known styles of Span ish cuisine is tapas—communal small plates—and pork is omnipresent. At Tropezón in Miami, the tapas selection

NOVEMBER 2022

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NOW SERVING CHEFS & INGREDI ENT S

includes hand-cut slices of jamón ibérico (back leg), lomo (cured pork loin), and chorizo (fermented, cured, and smoked sausage) from their jamón bar. “The cuts are sliced and sold by ounce just like they do in Spain,” says chef Juan Garrido. “Paired with manchego cheese and picos (small bread sticks), they’re one of the most popular snacks to enjoy throughout the day.” But sliced isn’t the only way to go. “Pork is an easy vessel for creativity,” says Stephan VanHeulen, chef de cui sine at MDRD in Grand Rapids, Michi gan. “Spaniards are infatuated with any thing coming from a pig now. For a good reason, too, as they have some of the best pork in the world.” At MDRD, they take the traditional croquetas de jamón and elevate them with a membrillo (quince) aioli and man chego cheese sauce. The main course While cured pork is typically used for tapas and appetizers, jamón is also a fre quent star of the entrée menu. Pork’s high fat content means that it holds up to being prepared in countless different ways, from braising to grilling to frying and beyond. “One of my favorite ways is to mari nate the pork over a long period of time before grilling,” Garrido says. “This gives it that melt-in-your-mouth tenderness. It’s also really tasty grilledwith just some light seasoning.” Tropezón and MDRD both serve a special cut called “secreto Ibérico,” an extremely tender, highly prized cut from the shoulder. Both preparations take advantage of the cut’s fat marbling to provide an extra boost of flavor with out needing to season excessively. At MDRD, chefs dress it up with romesco, black figs, and an arugula and pea shoot salad, while Tropezón opts for a simple presentation: a quick hit on the grill and served with mojo rojo and verde sauces. Supporting roles The laborious process through which jamón ibérico is made—the cut side of the meat is sealed with sea salt from the

THE TORREZNOS AT TROPEZÓN FEATURE PORK BELLY FRIED IN A SIGNATURE SPICE.

JULIAN COUSINS

Atlantic, while the rest is protected by a thick layer of acorn-induced fat, allowing it to ferment—produces a concentrated umami flavor that can also be applied as a seasoning element or accompaniment to other ingredients. Chef Arndt at Broma uses jamón ibérico to add depth to broths and stocks and to fortify her sauces. At MDRD, the team includes dehydrated jamón serrano in its pan-seared scallops, bringing a tex tural play on surf-and-turf. And at Trope zón, chorizo, the famous spicy pork sau sage, brings a bit of bite to the duck paella. “Pork is used as one of the most essen tial ingredients in any dish,” Garrido says, noting the wide range of flavors it can bring to a menu. A trendy tradition Many segments of the food world are constantly trying to push forward, incorporating molecular gastronomy or unusual fusions into their dishes, always on the hunt for the next thing. But Arndt

sees the next innovation of Spanish cui sine as a return to the past. “While America is a relatively young country, Spain is deeply ingrained with butchery and meat preservation in ways that all of us in the U.S. wish we could fully understand and experience,” she says. “Over the last decade or so, chefs have become fascinated with the ‘whys’ and ‘where froms.’ I would say it was spawned from the push for things to be farm-to-table, but a really great restau rant doesn’t need to call itself farm-to table anymore—it just is.” So could U.S.-raised jamón ever com pete with the real thing? Maybe for the casual diner, but most chefs are con vinced that Spanish pork—and its cen tral role in the cuisine—aren’t going any where. Perhaps Arndt sums it up best when, reflecting on the fierce pride with which Spain protects its most famous ingredient, she says, “When I think about that, it reaffirms just how special this piggy is.”

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Liquid Intelligence

TRENDS AND CREATIVE APPROACHES TO SPIRITS, WINE, AND BEER. MENTIONED IN THIS STORY VINYA TABLE • • • THE METEOR • • •

POSTINO WINECAFE • •

• AVIARY WINE & KITCHEN

BEFORE VINYA OPENED ITS RETAIL SHOP (PICTURED) AND RESTAURANT, IT WAS A WINE CLUB, VINYA DRINKING CRU.

Everybody Club IN THE

VINYA

IN RESTAURANTS’ ONGOING QUEST for guest connection, wine clubs offer an increasingly popular way to build relationships beyond an establish ment’s four walls. Driving engagement, awareness, and fresh revenue streams,

these oenophile circles offer curated collections that reflect bespoke in house dining experiences at home and via exclusive events. “Not everyone’s open seven days a week or for brunch, lunch, and dinner

BY MANDY ELLIS Wine clubs can deepen

relationships with restaurant guests.

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service, and more post-pandemic restau rants … need to make sure that they’re generating income, even when the doors aren’t open—how do you do that?” says Alex Bell, beverage director and manag ing partner at Austin, Texas–based Avi ary Wine & Kitchen, which runs Steady Sippers Case Club at 25 members. “A wine club is always available to the public, that add-to-cart button and swipe of the card are always available with technology … every single moment

seeing a slight boost or crafting chef driven three-course takeout meals paired with select wines that brought diners closer to the brand. The pandemic notwithstanding, oper ators say off-premises wine programs remain a great option to branch into, especially for brands that excel in logis tics and customer perks. For one company in South Florida, the wine club preceded its two brick and-mortar locations. Vinya Drinking

how they’re going to administer the wine club on the backend first because we started out on Squarespace and found it challenging tomanage all the different fees, income, and communications that go around subscriptions,” says Andrew Werth, director of café operations and general manager at The Meteor, whose Worthy Wine Club serves 40 members in Austin, Texas. The structure, subscription options, and pricing of wine clubs run the gamut,

TRUE TO ITS NAME, POSTINO’S WINE CULT BRINGS POP CULTURE TO BOUTIQUE WINE.

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with restaurants tailoring their pro grams to fit their brand and customers. For example, Meteor’s Worthy Wine Club offers monthly six-packs ($150 with free delivery) or 12-packs ($300 with free delivery and a $25 gift card); Vinya, on the other hand, dropped from a four-pack to a monthly two-pack with an included party game for $49. Postino operates at four quarterly bottles for $60 (or $220 annually), and Aviary’s offer ings sit at three or six bottles per month in subscriptions of three or six months from $380 to $1,475. Only after considering the value brought to members and logistics can restaurants begin ironing out wine club perks, Angelo says. Perks can include discounts, rewards when dining in or shopping retail, weekly or private tast ings, secret wine deals, cancel-anytime subscriptions, wine playlists, and free glasses of wine at box pickup. “That [free glass of wine] gets them hanging out at our space and also enjoy ing our other offerings, like food and cof fee. And [we can] offer participation in our weekly tasting,” Werth says. “We

you’re open and available, and that’s a smart thing to do to always try to gener ate and automate income,” he adds. At Arizona-based Postino WineCafe (under parent company Upward Proj ects), beverage director Brent Karlicek says launchingWine Cult provided a new platform to interact with the brand’s most loyal guests. The program also encouraged members to share their pas sion for boutique wines with friends and family who might have never stepped inside Postino’s doors. Wine Cult’s formulation was spurred by Covid lockdowns as a way to bridge the gap when dine-in wasn’t an option and to bring Postino to the people, no matter where they were enjoying their wine time, Karlicek says. But even with these inherent advan tages, clubs like Wine Cult still had to swivel through Covid, whether that was changing monthly bottle numbers and

Cru had amassed some 100-odd mem bers when it expanded into the restau rant and physical market spaces. “I’ve seen the key essential of the brick-and-mortar in growing a sub scription model,” says Allegra Angelo, cofounder and beverage director of res taurant Vinya Table in Coral Gables and retail spot Vinya Wine &Market in Key Biscayne. “Having brick-and-mortar in a high-traffic zone is a huge help to drive members. It’s so hard for a brand to live purely online. Once Coral Gables opened in May, that helped a lot of new people sign up.” Attracting members is only part of a much larger equation. Factors like designing a dedicated website for the wine club, setting up payment pro cessing, and coordinating pickups and/ or delivery also come into play—and should be considered early in the process. “[Restaurant owners] need to know

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also market wines chosen for the club within our retail space, so that allows folks who aren’t necessarily subscribed to see what’s been curated and what they’d like from that selection.” Postino grew its club through authen ticity, quality, and convenient access to great wines, Karlicek says. A deep under standing of how crucial guest connec tion is to the brand also helped inform the restaurant’s approach. “Even though it’s only $49 a month, [our Drinking Cru] are like top VIP cus tomers, and yes, we have people in store spending a hundred times that amount of money, but [our Cru] are our top-tier VIPs,” Angelo says. “ ey’re physically giving you their money every month and putting faith in you and trusting you.” When thinking through increased membership, Meteor focuses on multi ple, in-restaurant, scannable QR codes; its website; and its referral program where members can mail postcards to friends for a 20 percent discount on their first month. Meteor also ships notes in each wine box and trains staff to share personal stories as another means of connecting with customers. To position a wine club for member growth, Werth recommends restaurants start with their inner circle, including colleagues, and then focus on retention and building. “People’s behavior is going to continue to evolve and change as we come out of Covid,” Werth says. “We can change on our heels and think fast and see what works,” he says. Enthusiasm is contagious, and Avi ary’s Bell says one surefire way to build momentumwith guests is to first drum up buy-in behind the scenes. After all, if the operators themselves are fans of the wine selection, chances are their guests will be, too. “Do your research; make sure the wines align with the things that are important now to your consumer,” Bell says. “Make sure you’re as excited about the wines on the list as [customers] are going to be, and if you’re excited about them, convey that level of excitement so they can feel the electricity in the sales manship.”

“[Our Drinking Cru] are our top-tier VIPs. They’re physically giving you their money everymonth and putting faith in you and trusting you.”

VINYA TABLE SERVES ELEVATED FARE, LIKE THE DECONSTRUCTED CAESAR SALAD (ABOVE) WHILE STAYING TRUE TO ITS NATURAL WINE ROOTS.

VINYA (2)

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without a keg or gas service. That type of operational ease has made it easier to innovate on the beverage menu and continually surprise and delight guests. Now Sadiku and her team have a labor-sav ing solution that drives innovation and incre mental revenue—the best of all worlds. “Food costs have gone up, everything has gone up,” Sadiku says. “We have to make sure we meet our margins and keep our guests happy. Our coffee program—with cold brew and nitro cold brew—is a great way to accomplish both of those things, and it’s never been as easy as it is now, with the Segafredo NitroTap.” Restaurants like Eggsquisite Café can now easily offer creative innovations, like Black berry Lavender Cold Brew Fizz, Caramel Coconut Cold Brew, or a seasonally appropri ate Peppermint Mocha Cold Brew, for exam ple. Drink recipes are offered by Segafredo Zanetti to help spark innovation into their partners’ beverage program. “It’s important for operators to be able to create innovative beverages without a lot of complexity,” says Kristen Impastato, marketing director at Segafredo Zanetti. “In addition to premium, ready-to-drink cold brew, we offer cold brew equipment solutions that allow foodservice operations of any size to capital ize on the nitro cold brew trend, with NitroTap, NitroTap X, and NitroBox." Sadiku and her team use NitroTap to help churn out cold brew lattes with signature latte art as a way to entice their guests. She emphasizes that the NitroTap is an all-around win, as it delivers on both taste and opera tional advantages. “I’ve used other brands in the past, and Segafredo cold brew coffee tastes so much better,” Sadiku says. “And the presentation of NitroTap—it takes up less room and looks amazing, too. You can’t beat that.” 6

S P O N S O R E D B Y S E G A F R E D O Z A N E T T I

SIMPLIFIED COLD BREW, F or years, an Eggsquisite Café location in Allen, Texas, has offered cold brew and nitro cold brew, capitalizing on a pop ular trend. In fact, Datassential reports that cold brew has grown on menus 166 per cent over the past four years, while nitro cold brew has increased 678 percent during that same time frame. Operators like Eggsquisite Café owner Nikki Sadiku are finding that, best of all, the thirst for cold brew and nitro cold brew knows no daypart boundaries. The endless versatility of the smooth, richly flavored bev erages work on both breakfast and lunch menus—or even with dinner and dessert. Perhaps this is one of the reasons that the

FOR ALL-DAY MENUING AND INCREASED MARGINS

SEGAFREDO ZANETTI

Newone-stop solutions are sparking beverage innovation across dayparts. BY CHARLIE POGACAR

National Coffee Association reports that cold brew is the fastest-growing coffee segment, with about one in five Americans under the age of 40 drinking cold brew daily. Because cold brew and nitro cold brew previously required kegs and gas lines, Sadiku admits that sometimes it could be challenging to find space for the program, as well as time to maintain a draft set up. More recently, Sadiku found a helpful solution: NitroTap™, one of the many turnkey solu tions offered by Segafredo Zanetti ® , which dispenses both regular and nitro cold brew

J FOR MORE COLD BREW SOLUTIONS, VISIT SEGAFREDOFS.COM.

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Place THE TOBE

FROM NEW ENGLAND TO THE SOUTHWEST, THESE SEVEN CITIES ARE RIPE FOR RESTAURANT GROWTH.

IT’S A COMPLICATED TIME for operators looking to grow. The rising cost of goods and services, a cutthroat real estate mar ket, supply shortages, and lingering worries over Covid all make for a risky landscape to open a restaurant. But those risks come

with the possibility of a major payoff. Cities are pursuing multiple ways to drum up new business, and customers are ready to dine out, both in their cities and while traveling. The seven cities spotlighted in this year’s Hot Markets report are some of the nation’s

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NICKNAMED ‘SILICON SLOPES,’ SALT LAKE CITY IS PROJECTED TO NEARLY TRIPLE ITS SIZE IN LESS THAN 40 YEARS.

most promising areas for foodservice oper ators looking to break in or build out exist ing establishments. Whether due to massive projected growth (like Phoenix and Salt Lake City ), bustling tourism industries (see: Portland , Maine, and Tampa ), or a prime

location that offers both industrial and agri cultural resources (as in the case of Minne apolis , Indianapolis , and Charlotte , North Carolina), these cities offer ample reward to operators willing to take a leap of faith. BY RACHEL PITTMAN

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HOT MARKE T S

SaltLakeCity

U tah is one of the fast est growing states in the nation, according to the 2020 census report, and its capital (which is also its biggest metrop olis) is leading the charge. In recent years, Salt Lake City has posi tioned itself as a hub for the technology industry, even earning the nick

POPULATION: 1,240,029 GROWTH IN HOSPITALITY JOBS: 6.6%

ber of benefits, includ ing access to ample out door activities and an open-minded culture that expands notions of the Mormon-major ity state (as of January, racial and ethnic minori ties comprise the major ity of its city council). On top of it all, is a plethora of dining options that trend toward a casual, comfortable vibe. The recent influx of transplants has helped diversify Salt Lake City’s restaurant offerings, cre ating space for thought ful new concepts like Arlo, a creative, interna tionally influenced con cept that puts sustain ability first and foremost in its global menu (see right sidebar). While the industry has expanded to meet the needs of the city’s growing population, it still has more growing to do; a 2022 study from the University of Utah predicts that the state will add more than 2 mil lion residents in less than 40 years, with Salt Lake City maintaining its position as the largest county in Utah.

name of “Silicon Slopes,” as workers move to the area from pricier— and often coastal— locations. Newcom ers to Salt Lake City are rewarded by a num

Arlo COFOUNDERS: Brooke Doner and Milo Carrier SALT LAKE CITY Arlo, a Salt Lake City favorite specializing in globally inspired fare made from locally sourced ingredients, has managed to achieve the (nearly) impossible: sustained success after opening in July 2020, which cofounder Brooke Doner calls “almost cer tainly the worst time for a restaurant to attempt to launch.” Furthermore, Doner and her husband and cofounder, Salt Lake City native chef Milo Carrier, were ineligible for many relief programs due to their post-pan demic opening. The key to Arlo’s strong perfor mance? “We were saved by our large patio and the

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NOTE: POPULATION AND HOSPITALITY JOB GROWTH DATA WAS COLLECTED FROM THE BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS.

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FEATURE

RAVIOLI WITH PEAS, SWEET POTATO, TOASTED HAZELNUTS, AND LEMON

wonderful locals who continued to support us,” Doner says. “We clawed our way through those dark days and are so happy to say that it feels like we are on the other side of it.” Along with Carrier’s always-changing, sea sonal menus, sustain ability is at the heart of Arlo. It partners with local farms and oper ates a butchery pro gram that utilizes the whole animal. The res taurant’s approach sig “The Salt Lake City restaurant scene has, until recently, been fairly uniform and homoge nous,” she says. “Today, it’s an exciting time to be [here]. Restaurants are stepping up their game and challenging each other to do bet ter, both in their culinary craft, and in their con sumption practices.” nals, Doner feels, a changing industry.

UTAH MAY BE A MAJORITY MORMON STATE BUT SALT LAKE CITY IS BECOMING INCREASINGLY DIVERSE.

ARLO / ADOBE STOCK

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HOT MARKE T S

Charlotte C harlotte, North Car olina’s nickname of

year-round mild cli mate, the city is also sur rounded by agriculture, making it a prime spot for restaurants that pri oritize local sourcing. Take chef Greg Collier’s “modern day juke-joint,” Leah & Louise. The con

the “Queen City” is a fitting one. The city is emerging as one of the crown metropolitan jew els of the Southeast ern U.S., nabbing the 30th spot on U.S. News & World Report ’s 2022 Best Places to Live list. And the city’s high liv ability coincides with a thriving real estate mar ket; in a new study by Quicken Loans, Char lotte boasted the 18th hottest real estate mar ket nationwide. Thanks to its nearly

POPULATION: 2,595,027 GROWTH IN HOSPITALITY JOBS: 12.2%

cept’s updated versions of Southern classics— dishes inspired by Mis sissippi River foodways and focused on local ingredients—earned Collier a James Beard Award nomination ear lier this year. Leah & Louise is

one of the major play ers in an expansive net work of concepts that draw from Southern tra dition in Charlotte, but diverse eating and drink ing options abound. This year alone has seen a range of openings, including Para Char lotte, a hip, Asian-influ enced small plates spot, and Yunta, a sleek con cept specializing in Nik kei cuisine (Peruvian ingredients prepared via Japanese methods). Both have been high lighted by Eater as some of the city’s most sought after restaurants. With launches this year in nearly all of Charlotte’s neighborhoods across a variety of categories, the Queen City scene is ripe for new ideas.

CONFIT DUCK LEG AT LEAH & LOUISE

PETER TAYLOR PHOTOGRAPHY / ADOBE STOCK (2)

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