FSR February 2023

NO. 110 FULL-SERVICE RESTAURANTS : SETTING AMERICA’S TABLE

INSIDE THE AGAVE & RYE KITCHEN CHUCK LAGER REIMAGINES THE SPORTS BAR

MASTERING FRENCH CASUAL WALK-ON’S PROTOTYPE EDGE

®

TO RECESSION PROOF YOUR RESTAURANT HINT: IT ALL BEGINS WITH FLEXIBILITY AND AN OPEN MIND 7TIPS

MIZU’S OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL

PLUS

THE PEARLS TODAY’S TOP OPERATORS COMBINE THE BEST TRAITS OF CHAINS AND INDEPENDENTS AMONG RESTAURANT GROUPS

THE PERKS OF BREWERY PARTNERSHIPS

ICY WAVE’S EMBRACE c . 2022 MEDIUM : Idaho® baby yellow potatoes, soy sauce, gochujang, lettuce, carrot, shredded red cabbage, green onion ARTIST : Chef Sarah Falls

IdahoPotato.com/FSPRO

CONTENTS

FSR February2023 No. 110

26 Power Players Operating somewhere between chain and independent, restaurant groups represent a formidable segment in the full-service space. ough they vary in size, cuisine, and expansion strategy, the 10 groups featured here share a nim ble business model and unlimited growth potential.

26

THE RIDLEY IS JUST ONE OF MANY RESTAURANTS IN THE THOMPSON HOSPITALITY PORTFOLIO.

CHEFS & INGREDI ENT S 13 Epic Brands, Epic Career Chef Rob Harrison’s culinary

journey may have started with clas sical training, but over the years he’s worked in everything from fine dining and hotels to country clubs and catering. is eclectic background is ideally suited for his role at Epic Brands, parent group of Agave & Rye. 18 French Cuisine Goes Casual As global cuisine exploded in popu larity, French fare was pigeonholed as overly formal, “haute” cuisine. Now, a growing number of Next Gen Casual concepts are putting a laidback spin on French cooking— and consumers are taking note. L IQUID INT EL L I GENCE 21 Brew Buds Guests continue to clamor for craft beer options, opening a unique opportunity for restaurants to serve their own proprietary beers. But rather than investing time and money to do so in-house, operators are enlisting brewery partners.

21

THOMPSON HOSPITALITY / LUKE HIGGS PHOTOGRAPHY

1

FSRMAGAZINE .COM

FEBRUARY 2023

CONTENTS

FSRmagazine.com February2023 No. 110

®

SAL E S & BUS I NE SS DE VE LOPMENT

ED I TOR I AL

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Danny Klein dklein@wtwhmedia.com EDITOR Nicole Duncan nduncan@wtwhmedia.com SENIOR EDITOR Ben Coley bcoley@wtwhmedia.com SENIOR EDITOR Callie Evergreen cevergreen@wtwhmedia.com DIRECTOR OF CUSTOM CONTENT Peggy Carouthers pcarouthers@wtwhmedia.com CUSTOM CONTENT ASSOCIATE EDITOR Charlie Pogacar cpogacar@wtwhmedia.com CUSTOM CONTENT ASSOCIATE EDITOR Kara Phelps kphelps@wtwhmedia.com ART DIRECTOR Erica Naftolowitz enaftolowitz@wtwhmedia.com PRODUCTION MANAGER Mitch Avery mavery@wtwhmedia.com CUS TOM MED I A S TUD I O PRODUC T I ON & DE S I GN

GROUP PUBLISHER Greg Sanders gsanders@wtwhmedia.com NATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR Eugene Drezner 919-945-0705 edrezner@wtwhmedia.com NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Amber Dobsovic 919-945-0712 adobsovic@wtwhmedia.com NATIONAL SALES MANAGER John Krueger 919-945-0728 jkrueger@wtwhmedia.com NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Edward Richards 919-945-0714 erichards@wtwhmedia.com ADMI N I S TR AT I ON 919-945-0704 www.fsrmagazine.com/subscribe FSR is provided without charge upon request to individuals residing in the U.S. who meet subscription criteria as set forth by the publisher. REPR I NT S THE YGS GROUP 800-290-5460 fax: 717-825-2150 fsrmagazine@theygsgroup.com Sponsored content in this magazine is provided to the represented company for a fee. Such content is written to be informational and non promotional. Comments welcomed at sponsoredcontent@ fsrmagazine.com. SALES SUPPORT AND DIRECTORY SALES Tracy Doubts 919-945-0704 tdoubts@wtwhmedia.com

51 64

WALK-ON’S / JINYA HOLDINGS

F I RS T COURSE 7 The Buzz About TikTok The social media platform has become a cultural zeit geist, but does it deliver a strong ROI for businesses? 8 The Inflation Threshold At what point do menu price increases dissuade guests from visiting your restaurant? BACK OF HOUSE 47 Recession-Proof Your Restaurant YOUR TAKE Frequent FSR con tributor Bruce Reinstein and his colleague Tim Hand share seven ways restaurants can become more nimble and better weather any potential economic downturns. 49 Real Estate Role Model BEHIND THE SCENES To better expand in an ever-evolving real estate market, Walk-On’s

is building new prototypes. At 6,000 square feet, its newest model, the Wildcat, marks the smallest store yet. 51 The NextGen Sports Bar ON THE RISE With an enig matic namesake and two seasoned hospitality groups at the helm, Chuck Lager is poised to upend the sports bar status quo through its elevated pub fare and finely honed franchise program. 64 Start Me Up JINYA Holdings’ newest concept, LBD Japanese Bar & Grill, which debuted in Hawaii last fall, spotlights Japanese whisky. AL SO IN THI S I SSUE 3 Highlights from FSRmagazine.com 3 Brand Stories in Print and Online 4 Editor’s Welcome 53 Advertising Index 54 Annual Resource Guide

LinkedIn.com/company/ FSR-magazine Instagram.com/FSRmagazine Facebook.com/FSRmag Twitter.com/FSRmag

2016 MAGAZINE OF THE YEAR TOP 10 AWARD 2015 MAGAZINE OF THE YEAR

FOUNDER Webb C. Howell

FOLIO: Eddie Awards 2022 BEST FULL ISSUE HOSPITALITY 2022 BEST SPONSORED CONTENT 2021 BEST PROFILE FEATURE 2017 BEST FULL ISSUE FOOD & BEVERAGE 2013 BEST DESIGN, NEW MAGAZINE 2013 BEST FULL ISSUE, FOOD SERVICE/HOTEL

FSR is a registered trademark of WTWH Media, LLC. FSR is copyright © 2022 WTWH Media, LLC. All rights reserved. The opinions of columnists are their own. Publication of their writing does not imply endorsement by WTWH Media, LLC. Subscriptions 919-945-0704. www.fsrmagazine.com/subscribe. FSR is provided with out charge upon request to individuals residing in the U.S. meeting subscription criteria as set forth by the pub lisher. AAM member. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any fashion without the express written consent of WTWH Media, LLC. FSR (ISSN 2325-2154) is published monthly by WTWH Media, LLC, 1111 Superior Avenue Suite 2600, Cleveland, OH 44114. Periodicals postage paid at Cleveland, OH and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FSR, 101 Europa Drive, Suite 150, Chapel Hill, NC 27517-2380.

2

FSRMAGAZINE .COM

FEBRUARY 2023

FSRMAGAZINE.COM THE MOST POPULAR STORIES ON OUR WEBSITE, OR WHAT YOUR PEERS ARE READING Online

RED ROBIN PREPARES FOR TRANSFORMATION

Under the direction of new CEO GJ Hart, the brand is ready to implement a five-point turn around strategy. FSRmagazine.com/ Red-Robin-Transfomation APPLEBEE’S PRESIDENT JOHN CYWINSKI STEPS DOWN Credited with leading the chain’s resurgence, Cywinski is leav ing to become CEO of another, undisclosed company. FSRmagazine.com/ Cywinski-Steps-Down PERKINS REIGNITES GROWTHWITH VIRTUAL PARTNERSHIPS In addition to partnering with brands like Buca di Beppo, Per kins is launching a new model.

PURPOSE DRIVEN RESTAURANTS

The Restaurateur Balancing Nostalgia and Innovation Minneapolis chef and restaurateur Brian Ingram reimagines comfort dishes with a sense of adventure. FSRmagazine.com/Brian-Ingram

FSRmagazine.com/ Perkins-Prototype

PLUS FREE SUBSCRIPTIONS / HEALTHY EATING / LEADER PERSPECTIVES / RESEARCH REPORTS / WEBINARS

BrandStoriesFromFSR

IN PRINT

TRENDING ON THE MENU

ONLINE

16 How One Independent Operator Found Success in a Crowded Market A second-generation restaurateur

Make Your Restaurant a Go-To Coffee Destination Easy steps to drive all-day sales. SPONSORED BY SEB PROFESSIONAL How Two Brands Use On-Demand Delivery to Boost Profits DoorDash On-Demand Deliv ery helps restaurants fulfill orders from their own app or website. SPONSORED BY DOORDASH How HERSHEY’S Can Help Restaurants Improve Margins New five-pound chip bags help improve financials. SPONSORED BY HERSHEY FOODSERVICE

serves up culinary diversity. SPONSORED BY AMERICAN EXPRESS

ADOBE STOCK

39 Gourmet Nostalgia Sides like macaroni and cheese offer trendy comfort. SPONSORED BY BLOUNT FINE FOODS

ADOBE STOCK

3

FSRMAGAZINE .COM

FEBRUARY 2023

Welcome

Until Next Time I’VE TRIED WRITING THIS LETTER NUMEROUS TIMES. One version drew tenu ous parallels between studying in Italy and working at a restaurant maga zine. Another started with an anecdote about my first-ever foodservice story (it was on cupcake vending machines). But for as much as I want to leave you all with something memorable, profound, or at the very least, pithy, none of these farewell missives felt right. In my opinion, good-byes are best left unadorned and honest. e past eight years at FSR and QSR have been extraordinary in so many ways. Our publications are not only a source for industry news, expert insights, and fresh ideas, they’re also a gathering place for the leaders who are shaping foodservice—namely you, our readers. Without you, these fine magazines would just be us shouting into the void, never knowing whether we stuck the landing or flew past left field. anks to you, our reporting has never been one-sided. anks to you, the conversation, like the industry itself, is always expanding into new territory and evolving along the way. While FSR isn’t the only B2B restaurant publication out there, I’d like to think we serve a pivotal audience, albeit one that can be tricky to define. In our magazine, you’ll often find features about Applebee’s or Olive Garden right beside stories on French Laundry or Sierra Nevada Brewing. Counter intuitive as it may be, I firmly believe it is the blend of commonalities and differences that makes FSR dynamic, compelling, and perhaps most impor tantly, relevant to you. If you need proof, look no further than our Power Players feature ( PAGE 26 ). Comprising several concepts, including some with multiple locations, restaurant groups exemplify the flexibility and creativ ity that drive a successful operation. Next month, we’ll take these syner gies even further when FSR once again teams up with QSR for our third annual crossover issue. Ideas and opportunities abound, and I have every confidence that our team here will continue bringing you the very best coverage. I also have faith that you, our readers, will remain an eternal wellspring for innova tion, with hospitality at the heart. It’s been a pleasure and privilege to share this journey with you all. I don’t like good-byes, so I’ll settle instead for: “until next time.”

Nicole@FSRmagazine.com FSRmag @FSRmagazine

On the Cover This month’s cover features oysters on the half shell at Indigo Road Hospitality’s Jap anese/Southern rooftop restaurant Mizu in Charlotte, North Carolina. The photo was shot by Andrew Cebulka , whose commercial portfolio includes food, inte rior design, products, and portrait pho tography. To learn more about Cebulka, visit andrewcebulka.com or follow him on Instagram at @andrewcebulka .

ank you for everything,

Nicole Duncan ED I TOR

NICOLE: LIBBY M C GOWAN / ANDREW CEBULKA

4

FSRMAGAZINE .COM

FEBRUARY 2023

GREAT BEGINNINGS, gourmet endings. NEW PREMIUM CHOCOLATE 5LB. BAGS AVAILABLE IN 9 VARIETIES

Our exceptional line of stand-up bags make it more convenient to prepare desserts and beverages with premium Ghirardelli Chocolate. CONVENIENT Smaller bags are easy to pour and store. ACCESSIBLE Flexible offerings let you mix and match different chocolate varieties. VERSATILE Couverture chocolate formats are perfect for flavoring, coating, melting, and glazing. Non-couverture chips hold up well when baked.

Explore the new line and request your samples today.*

©2022 Ghirardelli Chocolate Company

*For qualified foodservice professionals only.

Pop New Queso Loaded Tots from Revel Eats TM are a craveable, chef-driven appetizer delight! Incredibly easy to prep, these crazy good bites are filled with creamy queso fresco and a blend of other savory cheeses, plus diced potatoes, jalapeño peppers, and smoky bacon — all coated in a crispy breading. The Next Generation of Appetizers Has Arrived. MAKE POTATOES

AjinomotoFoodservice.com

Scan for more information

FirstCourse

Proponents say TikTok offers a more level playing field than other apps.

ADOBE STOCK

TheBuzzAboutTikTok BY NICOLE DUNCAN Surveys find a clear ROI, but are businesses being too quick to invest? TIKTOK IS HARDLY THE FIRST social media plat form to work its way into marketers’ tool kits. But at the moment, TikTok is the social network garnering the most adoration from consumer-facing businesses—includ ing restaurants. Last month, the National Restaurant

Association teamed up with TikTok for an exclusive webinar. The presentation’s best practices encompassed everything from making memorable, impactful videos to boosting engagement through paid ads. And this month, the annual South Beach Wine & Food Festival will include an all

7

FSRMAGAZINE .COM

FEBRUARY 2023

FirstCourse

new event focusing on digital con tent creation. While the programming at South Beach’s FoodieCon will span multiple platforms, TikTok influencers account for the lion’s share of speakers. It all begs the question why this new medium has taken foodservice by storm. The answer may have more to do with authenticity than aesthetics. “Users like TikTok because its seem ingly endless content feels authen tic and unfussy—videos made by real people, for real people. Creat ing ads that capture the candid nature of organic TikTok content helps busi nesses blend in and profit,” said Molly Burke, senior retail analyst at software marketplace Capterra, in a statement. A recent survey by Capterra found that TikTok can be especially bene ficial for smaller enterprises; 78 per cent of small enterprises that ran Tik Tok ads reported a positive ROI within the last six months. At the same time, three-quarters of businesses using Tik Tok post non-advertising content, and fewer than two-thirds run ads. Although the general enthusiasm around TikTok signals a greenlight for restaurants to pursue the channel, some experts advise caution. Maeve Webster, president of consulting firm Menu Matters, cites recent contro versy surrounding the app. In Novem ber, the FBI stated that TikTok, a Chi nese-owned business, posed a security threat. And as of December, 19 states had at least partially blocked access to TikTok on government-affiliated devices. But beyond these concerns, Web ster reminds operators that, as with any red-hot trend, it’s best to wade in, rather than jump. “By all means, keep an eye on it; con sider how the fads …may impact lon ger term and more impactful behav iors that are relevant to your business, and consider how a reasonable share of budget may be spent on exposure,” she says. “But I’d counsel against plac ing too many eggs in a basket that’s teetering on the edge of the kitchen counter.”

nflation Threshold The AS RESTAURATEURS CONTINUE to hold their collective breath while rising costs creep onto their menus, new data from Paytronix elucidates at what point loyal customers will cut back on their spending. Accord ing to the findings, 55 percent of restaurants have reported that their check prices have increased more than the cost of the ingredients , meaning loyal guests have, thus far, been willing to pay more for the items they typically order. Nevertheless, there is a tipping point where even the most loyal of customers begin spending less, and per Paytronix, it’s when inflation hits 10 percent. According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, inflation for food consumed away fromhome had increased 8.6 percent between October 2021 and 2022. While that is inching close to the estimated threshold, restaurants should take heart that the increase was 12.4 percent for food at home.

ADOBE STOCK

8

FSRMAGAZINE .COM

FEBRUARY 2023

Progressive Casualty Ins. Co. & affiliates. Coverages and discounts not available in all states or situations, for all vehicles or coverage selections.

Protect your small business from reality with over 30+ customizable coverage options and personalized discounts. Get a quote in as little as 6 minutes at ProgressiveCommercial.com

NEW

Crispy sweet corn on the cob curls in a light hickory-smoked batter.

Lightly seasoned Brussels sprout halves with a crispy crust.

Introducing a new brand celebrating vegetables and plants from McCain Foodservice Solutions. Light, delicious and perfect for you to unleash your creativity across the menu. V’DGZ will keep your guests coming back and craving more. CUTTING EDGE VEG. V’DGZ and V’DGZ logo are trademarks of McCain Foods Limited. © 2023 McCain Foods USA, Inc.

SCAN FOR CASH BACK!

Large pickled cauli ower orets with a clear, crispy coating.

THE HAPPIEST OF HAPPY HOURS INCLUDE CHEESE

FEATURED CHEESES

ITALICO ™ WASHED RIND CHEESE

CREAMYGORG ® GORGONZOLA DOLCE

ARTIGIANO ® VINO ROSSO

CRESCENZA STRACCHINO ™

ARTIGIANO ® AGED BALSAMIC & CIPOLLINE ONION nutty, full and sharp flavor

milky, tart flavor and soft, creamy texture

earthy, full flavor and soft texture

earthy flavor and creamy texture

nutty, crumbly texture

ASK US ABOUT

CONTACT US FOR SAMPLES belgioioso.com/foodservice

Chefs& Ingredients

CULINARY INSPIRATION AND STORIES FROM INDUSTRY TRAILBLAZERS MENTIONED IN THIS SECTION AGAVE & RYE • • • LE GRATIN • • •

CARIBOU CAFE • •

• MON CHOU CHOU • •

• SOB STEAKHOUSE

AGAVE & RYE’S PLAYFUL SPIRIT SHINES IN ITS ECLECTIC MENU AND FUNKY RESTAURANTS.

EpicBrands, EpicCareer

EPIC BRANDS

IN MANY WAYS, chef Rob Harrison’s winding and diverse career, ranging from fine dining and catering to hotels and country clubs, laid a sturdy foundation for his current role with Epic Brands, parent company of growing restaurant Agave & Rye, among other concepts. As the corporate creative chef, Harrison is in charge of not only creating and refining recipes for the restaurants, he’s also in charge of systemizing those recipes

BY NICOLE DUNCAN Chef Rob Harrison brings multifaceted expertise to Agave & Rye.

13

FSRMAGAZINE .COM

FEBRUARY 2023

CHEFS & INGREDI ENT S CHEF PROF I LE

and processes so they’re ready to scale. When he joined Agave & Rye in 2020, the Kentucky–based NextGen Casual had been in operation for less than two years and had four locations. Since then, it’s added another 10 units, despite the challenges imposed by CO, and has more in the pipeline. Harrison attributes this success to the immersive experience that Agave & Rye offers its guests. “ e goal from the very beginning— before I was even here—was to create an environment where you can have mindful play and escape, to get away from reality,” Harrison says. “We can give them that time to where they for get the world around them and just enjoy what’s in front of them and their family and their friends. at’s all we strive for.” Harrison will be the first to admit the physical space, with its location-specific, playful design, is a major contributor to the brand experience. But the other

equally important factor in the equation is the food itself. Agave & Rye doesn’t bill itself as a tra ditional Mexican restaurant because so many other global cuisines come into play, Harrison says. And when the con cept delves into Mexican fare, it does so in a more nuanced way. “ ere are so many different layers to Mexican culture and the food side—dif ferent peppers, different chilies, differ ent regions, like Oaxaca and Chihuahua,” Harrison says. “If you go to the coast line, you’re going to get more seafood and lobster and more frito mixto [fried shrimp and calamari]. And if you go to inner [regions], you get more of the birria tacos. Birria tacos are a top-seller for us; everybody loves them.” Another favorite rooted in Mexi can tradition is the Plain Jane, which includes seasoned ground beef, aged white cheddar, diced tomatoes, shred ded lettuce, and sour cream.

But the Agave &Rye menu pulls inspi ration from far and wide. Harrison offers a few Epic Tacos as examples, includ ing e Crown Jewel, which harkens to French cuisine and features lobster, truf fle oil, and mac ‘n cheese. e Empress Gi puts an Asian spin on a Mexican pro tein, withMongolian carne asada, sticky rice, red chili Mongolian sauce, carrots, and shaved green onion. Over-the-top tacos dot the selection, with ingredients as obscure as peppercorn kangaroo and Flamin’ Hot Coconut Cheetos. ese playful creations are a long way fromHarrison’s classical roots. Born and raised in Hawaii, he moved to Hyde Park, New York, to attend the Culinary Insti tute of America. “A lot of people think once you come out of school, you can be a chef,” Harrison says, “but you really have to pound the pavement, as they say.” So, upon graduation, he did the req uisite fine-dining circuit with stints in both upstate and New York City proper.

CHEF ROB HARRISON

INGREDIENT OF THEMOMENT: Dried peppers such as chipotle, ancho, and bird’s eye chili FAVORITE AGAVE &RYE DISH: Mac ‘N Cheese Beignets CHEF YOU’DMOST LIKE TOWORK WITH: Probably Bobby Flay. I would love to go on “Beat Bobby Flay” to see if I can handle him. I think that would be a lot of fun.

ONE OF HARRISON’S MOST IMPORTANT RESPONSIBILITIES IS CREATING NEWMENU ITEMS THAT CAN BE SCALED AS AGAVE & RYE CONTINUES TO GROW ITS FOOTPRINT.

EPIC BRANDS (4)

14

FSRMAGAZINE .COM

FEBRUARY 2023

CHEFS & INGREDI ENT S CHEF PROF I LE

totally different trainings, two totally different recipe writings,” he says. “When we have to switch gears over to SOB, it’s a whole different mindset. You’ve got to elevate the food, like what I used to do in the past in fine dining, to where it’s not pretentious and it’s still approachable.” Harrison offers the Japanese Crab Cakes as an example. Unlike tradi tional Maryland crab cakes, which he says use a lot of filler like peppers, onion, and breadcrumbs, SOB’s version is 98 percent crab and seasoned with gochujang, ginger, garlic, and sriracha. Harrison relishes the process and the creative leeway it affords him. For one, he’s drawn fromhis catering expe rience for Shindig Park, a large event space that houses SOB and can be out fitted for hors d’oeuvres, buffet dining, or plated meals with servers. Another project that’s been keep ing him busy is Trashy Dawg, which is slated to debut in Alabama the first half of the year. Epic Brands’ first foray into counter service takes hot dogs, wings, and other bites “to a whole new level, incorporating things that people have never seen before,” Harrison says. In addition to traditional corn dogs and build-your-own options, the fast casual serves indulgent dishes like gar lic Texas Toast topped with housemade mac ‘n cheese, crispy chicken tenders, and a hot dog. It will also offer wings ranging 1–5 in heat level, where the hottest requires guests to sign a waiver. “[It’s] just out-of-this world, crazy, let your-inner-child-come-out,” he adds. Given the constant innovation and evolution happening at Epic Brands, Harrison has continued to sharpen his skills and expand into new territory. That said, the chef does hold a dream of one day becoming a celebrity chef. After all, he’s always enjoyed doing tele vision spots. “One day I’d like to be on TV as a star, but I’m very happy where I am. I like bringing that creativity and that ‘wow’ factor to people when they get their taco,” he says. “It’s just really giv ing that love and passion to it.”

AT AGAVE & RYE, GUESTS CAN TAKE A BREAK FROM REALITY, HARRISON SAYS.

EPIC BRANDS

From there, his career grew in multi ple directions; he worked at a number of hotel properties, including La Valen cia, Le Merigot, and Short Stories in Southern California. When he and his wife were ready to start a family, they moved to Ohio, where he continued to rack up a wide variety of experiences, including more fine dining, country clubs, and catering. In fact, his cater ing work on behalf of the Columbus based nonprofit LifeCare Al liance, taught him how to serve a wide range of crowds and occasions. “Our profits rolled back into the non profit for seniors, so it was a win-win. We did weddings, corporate events … school functions, banquets—you name it, we did it. We did anywhere from 10 people to 4,000. So I learned bulk prep there,” Harrison says. All said and done, he stayed in the catering sector for seven years until the summer of 2020, when right at the height of Covid, a former colleague

reached out; she was seeking a corpo rate creative chef for her fledgling yet rapidly expanding restaurant. That former colleague was Yavonne Sarber, founder and owner of Agave &Rye. The pair had worked together for three and a half years at a now defunct bistro in Columbus before Harrison joined Life Care Alliance. Now, in addition to creating and perfecting recipes for the original con cept, Harrison is building menus for new restaurants under the Epic Brands umbrella. The portfolio ranges from a fast casual peddling hot dogs to an ele vated steakhouse. The latter, Son of a Butcher (sob) Steakhouse, opened last March in a suburb of Cincinnati. While working on such varied res taurants allows the chef to flex his culi nary muscles, the pivots aren’t without their challenges. “First off, it’s difficult. … Right now our twomain concepts are Agave &Rye and SOB—totally different worlds, two

SERVING UP RESOURCES TO HELP YOUR RESTAURANT THRIVE.

When you welcome American Express® Cards, you have access to benefits, services and programs to help your business thrive, including curated offers, discounts. solutions, and tips to help you get more out of your business and attract new customers.

Scan the QR Code for more information on available resources.

S P O N S O R E D B Y A M E R I C A N E X P R E S S

How One Independent Operator Found Success in a Crowded Market

A SECOND-GENERATION RESTAURATEUR SERVES UP CULINARY DIVERSITY . A BY DAVINA VAN BUREN

ADOBE STOCK

16

FSRMAGAZINE .COM

FEBRUARY 2023

Often Imitated, Never Duplicated. Frank’s RedHot ® is the hot sauce that started the Buffalo wing craze in Buffalo, NY in 1964.

*McCORMICK’S CALCULATION BASED IN PART ON DATA REPORTED BY INFORMATION RESOURCES, INC. USING McCORMICK’S CUSTOM DEFINITIONS.

To learn more about Frank’s RedHot ® , visit McCormickForChefs.com/Franks-Means-Buffalo ©2023 McCormick & Company, Inc. 24-1 Schilling Road, Hunt Valley, MD 21031 • 800-322-SPICE (7742)

S P O N S O R E D B Y A M E R I C A N E X P R E S S

small, dine-in is limited,” Lew says. “We can’t accommodate company dinners or large gatherings. It’s mainly to-go orders, and we offer walk-in, call-in, and online order ing. We have a very small staff, so we rely on delivery apps.” Like her restaurateur relatives, Lew’s menu development strategy is a group effort. As a millennial with many foodie friends, Lew and her cohort enjoy eating out and are always on the lookout for the latest food trends. She also gets ideas from her friends’ multicul tural backgrounds. “Every culture has its perks in terms of food, and America is a big melting pot,” Lew says. “Having a fusion restaurant means that I can be creative and provide the best of both worlds.” It also means that she can offer up something unique in the local food scene. Soledad is a predom inantly Hispanic community with farms, wineries, and lots of sea sonal workers. Naturally, many

Some people take decades to find their place in the restaurant industry, but Mandee Lew was born into it.

tomers, Lew’s father decided to open a fusion concept where cus tomers could order both Japanese and Chinese dishes under one roof. When her parents decided to pursue another opportunity, Lew took over the restaurant in Novem ber 2021. Soledad—a small town of about 25,000 people—is an ideal location for a first-time res taurateur to get her feet wet, par ticularly in today’s off-premises dining heavy atmosphere. “Because my restaurant is very

Lew operates Mix Stix Asian Fusion, a small, mostly takeout res taurant in Soledad, a small town off U.S. Highway 101 in California’s Salinas Valley, two hours south of San Francisco. Lew officially opened Mix Stix in November 2021, but she practically grew up in kitchens alongside her father, god father, and uncle—who all owned restaurants—as well as many other family members. “When my dad immigrated from China in the late 1980s, he worked in grocery stores as a meat worker,” Lew says. “Eventually he became business partners with my godfa ther, and they opened a Chinese buffet. It was an epic failure, but they never stopped trying.” Eventually the duo found their stride and opened several suc cessful restaurants in and around Modesto. In the meantime, her uncle opened a Japanese restau rant where Lew worked as a server, keenly observing the resident chefs master the art of rolling sushi. “I ate sushi for six months straight when I worked there,” Lew said. “My uncle and the other sushi chefs made their own special rolls that they created based on things they learned from their travels to Japan and customer requests. Our menu development process was to ask for input and then just keep adding and tweaking until we thought it tasted good.” After many requests from cus

MIX STIX ASIAN FUSION

“Sometimes life requires you to take a leap of faith. Even if you feel scared or discouraged, you still have to go for it.”

Because of its size, Mix Stix’s tech stack isn’t terribly compli cated. Its most important busi ness tool is the POS system, which automatically translates orders from English into Chi nese for her mother and great uncle, who are the primary chefs and whose first language is Chinese. She also leans on a strong partnership with Amer ican Express, which supports Merchants year-round through the Shop Small Resource Hub where small business own ers have access to complimen tary marketing supplies and resources; Amex Offers for Merchants for services ranging from technology to shipping solutions; a new, dedicated Small Business Saturday page from Business Class, featuring insights, tips, and inspiration; and more. “We have lots of travelers passing through the area for agricultural work, so we take most forms of payments,” Lew says. “Our customers are happy to be able to use their Ameri can Express ® cards.” This is Lew’s first solo res taurant endeavor, but maybe not her last. Like her father and godfather who kept experi menting until they found their business stride, Lew is a calcu lated risk taker. “If I’ve learned anything from the restaurant business, it’s to not be afraid to try—and fail. A part of me never wanted to open a restaurant, but I also wanted to own a business and make something of myself. Sometimes life requires you to take a leap of faith. Even if you feel scared or discouraged, you still have to go for it.” ¬

local restaurants serve Mexi can and South American food to a clientele who crave a taste of home—but everyone wants something different sometimes. For example, the “Dream Girl” sushi roll features tempura shrimp, avocado, and deep fried crab; while the “Lion King” boasts crab, salmon, and avo cado baked in a special house sauce. The Walnut Shrimp roll (tempura shrimp, cucumber, and crab topped with avocado, honey walnuts and unagi sauce), is a clever play on a classic Chi nese dish, and a dedicated sushi appetizer menu invites guests to share a healthy snack to start their meal. Chinese menu items run the gamut from fried rice, chow mein and clas sic poultry, pork, seafood, and beef dishes to a few expected surprises like salt-and-pepper calamari and braised tofu. Like any good, hands-on small business owner, Lew looks

for several specific qualities in her staff members—mainly good communication skills, a respectful attitude, and a will ingness to work hard. “For front-of-house staff, attentiveness is very important. You want someone who antici pates guests’ needs. For exam ple, if someone’s drink is get ting low, they proactively refill it, or if a guest is in a hurry, they drop the check with the food.” Kitchen staff is more skilled work, but, Lew says, she doesn’t expect chefs to come in with the specific skills needed at Mix Stix. Instead, she is willing to invest time training prospects who seem like a good fit. “I don’t expect people to come in with all the skills, but you do need someone who wants to learn,” Lew says. “When you work with people and teach them, you have to be patient, show grace, and give constructive criticism. A lot of my servers are young, just out of high school and it’s their first job. Good or bad, I hope they get something from their time here that they can use in their next jobs.”

MIX STIX ASIAN FUSION TELLS A UNIQUE STORY.

For more information, visit americanexpress.com/business-solutions.

CHEFS & INGREDI ENT S NOW SERVING

FrenchCuisine Goes Casual BY CALLIE EVERGREEN Can a more relaxed version of the typical French restaurant attract a new generation of guests?

DANIEL BOULUD’S LE GRATIN STILL SERVES FANCY DISHES LIKE CÔTE DE BOEUF (PICTURED) BUT IN A MORE LAIDBACK ENVIRONMENT.

BILL MILNE

ONCE CONSIDERED the pinnacle of fine dining, traditional French restau rants have fallen out of favor in the past decade or so as consumers seek lesser known cuisines and more laidback expe riences. But, a new era of French dining may be on the horizon. NextGen concepts take inspiration from the tried and true but leave behind the unnecessary gatekeeping associated with fine dining. What emerges is a more casual approach that keeps high-quality French cooking at its core, and allows

space for chefs to make creative twists. “I think today when we talk about seasonal restaurants, where cuisine is locally and seasonally driven, this is the French concept. e DNA of French cui sine was based on that,” says Daniel Bou lud, revered French chef and owner of 20-plus restaurants spanning New York City, Miami, Palm Beach, Florida, and international destinations, such as the Bahamas, Canada, Singapore, and Dubai. Hai l ing from Lyon, France, Bou lud has been celebrated for advancing

French culture and cuisine. And though the chef comes from a fine-dining back ground, he has taken care not to alien ate his neighbors. “Sometimes a restaurant becomes so famous that locals don’t go anymore,” he says. “French restaurants thrive on stay ing local and being part of the fiber and social life of people.” Boulud still sees value in full-ser vice concepts in markets like New York, where customers expect “to be pam pered more than ever, and want special

18

FSRMAGAZINE .COM

FEBRUARY 2023

moments more than ever,” he says. Despite offering a more casual dining experience at Le Gratin in downtown Manhattan, Boulud questions the lon gevity of French fast-casual restaurants. “Usually, chefs go into the fast-casual market with one thing in mind: to grow it and sell it. But restaurants like mine, like DANIEL, you don’t want to grow it or sell it; you want to keep it forever. It’s a different mindset of business,” he says. “So in casual, you really have to bring something people can live on every day. You can go across the street and sit down at a French bistro every day and have something healthy.” To thrive in today’s market, the evolu tion of French cuisine involves embrac ing a new identity and distancing itself from the old, complicated reputation. “We are working hard every day to not be perceived as fine dining,” says Jérôme Sérot, a French expat who cofounded Southerleigh Hospitality. The San Anto nio–based group comprises Souther leigh Fine Food & Brewery, Southerleigh Haute South, and French-focused Bras serie Mon Chou Chou. Non-foodies might make a mistake in thinking Mon Chou Chou is a fancy establishment, given the beauty of the exterior’s architecture and name, but Sérot says it’s true French comfort food with a steak program, scratch-made fries, and a curated selection of wine that won’t break the bank. Some of the comfort dishes include Souris D’Agneau (slow-braised lamb), Plateau D’Huitres (East Coast oysters), and Côte de Porc (seared pork porterhouse). Mon Chou Chou opened in San Anto nio’s Pearl historical district in Decem ber 2020, which Sérot describes as both the best and the worst time to open a new restaurant and introduce comfort French food to the Texas market. “Part of our due diligence was to cre ate a list of everything that goes against this perception,” Sérot says. “[French cui sine] is known for being too expensive, unreachable, too complicated, with an environment that’s not casual at all. Brasserie is the exact opposite.” Though traditional French brasseries

MON CHOU CHOU EMBRACES ITS BRASSERIE ROOTS WITH CASUAL FARE LIKE RACLETTE.

JOHN-PAUL GARRIGUES

are open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, the current Texas market wouldn’t support that model—or not yet, he says. San Antonio’s French footprint is small, but Sérot has seen a wave of French concepts arriving on the scene recently, from fast-casual digs to quick serves. And that trend applies nationally, as well. Olivier Desaintmartin, a French chef since 1978 and a champion onThe Food Network’s “Chopped,” wanted to make a departure from the white tablecloth world of fine dining when he opened Car ibou Café in Philadelphia in 2003. Caribou’s casual, bistro environment features posters from Paris, a Belgian style bar, and country-classic comfort food at a more affordable price point. A prix fixe luncheon menu includes soup du jour or petite salad, a classic French entrée that changes daily, and a salty car amel crepe or chocolate mousse, all for less than $30. An all-day, five-course bis tro meal costs $45. “I did cut down on butter and heavy cream, and I adjusted to what people reach for with comfort food,” Desaint

martin says. Menu innovation comes in the form of incorporating ingredi ents and recipes from various regions in France, from a Brittany-inspired sea food crepe with salmon, shrimp, crab, andMornay cheese sauce for $21 to Pari sian onion soup gratinée with gruyere and croutons for $10. Desaintmartin is able to keep prices low by maintaining a lean roster of staff members, some of whom have been in his employ for upwards of 20 years. “We have full service at casual prices, but we still want waiters or bartenders to know all their wines, cocktails, [how to] set the tables and clean them,” he says. As restaurateurs continue redefin ing what fine dining and casual hybrids look like, the next generation of chefs is poised to blend the traditional and the new wave in their menus. “What we’re the most proud of … is the mentoring we have been giving chefs in America of all backgrounds, nation alities, and origins,” Boulud says. “It’s incredible, and they are all growing today and creating their own lineage.”

FEBRUARY 2023 19

FSRMAGAZINE .COM

Next Day Funding with weekend settlement Rates as low as .05% * REDUCE YOUR CREDIT CARD PROCESSING FEES

Accept EMV/NFC (Apple Pay, ETC.) EBT, Snap, Checks and more

 FREE Credit Card Terminal Placement Wireless/Landline/High-Speed/Dial-Up  Easy setup (with no setup fees and quick approvals)  Seamless integration with your current POS  $295** towards your early termination fee (if you have one) with your current processor  Access to Payments Hub - our secure, online merchant portal  Free paper**

• FREE NFC & EMV-Ready Terminal & Pin Pad or wireless terminal.

INTEGRATE WITH YOUR POS

• Accept payments in-store, online, or on-the-go.

with 4G / Wifi

OPTIONAL PROGRAMS:

• Point of Sale Systems Recommendations, Solutions & Integrations • Accept EBT/Snap Low Transaction Fee

EDGE: The Best CASH DISCOUNT PROGRAM from North American Bancard Are you ready to get rid of the impact of payment processing costs on your business? With the Edge Cash Discount program you will enjoy the same profit margins from cash payments as you do from non-cash payments. GROW YOUR BUSINESS. PARTNER WITH NAB TODAY ! 866.481.4604 © 2022 North American Bancard, LLC (NAB). All rights reserved. NAB is a registered ISO of BMO Harris Bank N.A., Chicago, IL, Citizens Bank N.A., Providence, RI, The Bancorp Bank, Philadelphia, PA, and First Fresno Bank, Fresno CA. American Express may require separate approval. *Durbin regulated Check Card percentage rate. A per transaction fee will also apply. **Some restrictions apply. This advertisement is sponsored by an ISO of North American Bancard. Apple Pay is a trademark of Apple.

WWW.NYNAB.COM

Liquid Intelligence

TRENDS AND CREATIVE APPROACHES TO SPIRITS, WINE, AND BEER. MENTIONED IN THIS STORY EASY TIGER • • • O’CHARLEY’S • • •

UPTOWN HOSPITALITY GROUP • •

• KUSH HOSPITALITY

BrewBuds

CANTINA STYLE SHARE HOUSE SERVES A SIGNATURE MEXICAN LAGER.

LUKE HIGGS PHOTOGRAPHY

SIGNATURE BEERS create unique entry points into a restaurant for all types of guests, from regulars and craft brew connoisseurs to travelers and locals seeking one-of-a-kind experiences. Because these signature sips can only

be enjoyed at specific locations, they funnel traffic, awareness, and profits while helping restaurants stay fresh and promote the best available locally. By leveraging partnerships and collabora tions with breweries, operators can

BY MANDY ELLIS Why restaurants should consider collaborations with local breweries.

21

FSRMAGAZINE .COM

FEBRUARY 2023

L IQUID INTELL IGENCE

lored to fit each concept’s vibe andmenu. Uptown Social’s “cavernous tavern feel” had IPA vibes, Share House was very “social butterf ly” as a coastal cantina, which meant a Mexican lager, and Bode ga’s New York ambiance meant crafting a wheat beer. Signature beers crafted through F&B community relationships offer exclusive and rare drinks and dishes for diners as well as marketing and traffic options for brewers and owners. “[It’s] an opportunity to have some thing no one else has and no one else can have, so it’s a really good selling point where, at least at our spot, we’re like the TCBY of beer,” says Stetson Strifler, bev erage manager at Austin, Texas–based Easy Tiger. “It generates that buzz and definitely helps with foot traffic.” The beer garden/bakery saw an extra 25 guests the week it posted on Untappd (a beer social media platform) that its

TWO OF EASY TIGER’S MOST POPULAR BEERS STEM FROM BREWERY COLLABORATIONS.

“[It’s] an opportunity to have something no one else has and no one else can have, so it’s a really good selling point where, at least at our spot, we’re like the TCBY of beer.”

brew up signature beers that draw diners. “When you partner with a local brew ery, it’s another hook to bring people through the doors and [get them to] spend more money. … It’s a reason for someone to come in and enjoy their over all experience, then segue into other offerings we have at the restaurant,” says Keith Benjamin, cofounder and senior operating partner of Charleston, South Carolina’s Uptown Hospitality Group. “Travelers come to Charleston looking for the best food and the best beer, and when we bring that phenomenal local beer into our establishments with our own label, brewed locally, there’s really nothing like it.” Uptown Hospitality worked with fel low Charleston business Brewlab to cre ate three signature beers that were tai

signature beers would be on draft. But gathering those surplus guests comes from building relationships within the brewing, bar, and taproom communities. “Mostly these brewers are my friends,” Strif ler says. “I know many of these guys and we have a special relationship because we worked together and saw each other all the time and drank beer when we got done.” Partnership processes also begin with asking the right questions. Ask the guest, what do you want and need, and if your guests want something special or want

KUSH HOSPITALITY ROTATES SIGNATURE BREWS IN ITS ‘KAPTAIN KUSH’ SERIES.

HEATHER BARNES / EASY TIGER / KUSH HOSPITALITY GROUP

FEBRUARY 2023

22

FSRMAGAZINE .COM

On-the-go flavor . Texas Pete ® is taking its flavor on the road with convenient, easy to-enjoy portion control packets! Whether it’s a Texas Pete ® dip cup or sauce packet, your customers will be able to enjoy bold flavor for a better on-the-go dining experience—anywhere, at any time. SCAN HERE

TOREQUEST A SAMPLE

Ask your broker for the #1 portion control hot sauce and request a free sample today!

©2023 Texas Pete® and Sauce Like You Mean It® are registered trademarks of TW Garner Food Company. 1007-121222

L IQUID INTELL IGENCE

to feel more special because they can only get that beer from you, consider moving forward, says Craig Barber, CEO of O’Charley’s and 99 Restaurants. Barber adds that operators should ask themselves a number of questions: what kinds of beers diners like; who the local breweries are and how they can help; what the framework of the brand and menu looks like; and how restaurants can create that emotional connection through their beverage offerings. All these, he says, invite consumers to

spend their hard-earned dollars at your restaurant over others. “We have great food, but nowwe have a signature beer: Underground Chuck’s, a signature offering that separates us and puts us in a different category,” Bar ber says. Underground Chuck’s is a light

ican eats like chicken tender nachos, ribs, and salmon. Operators should check with brewer ies to see if they can handle the proper volume and f lavors for your concept, says Cristina Suarez, beverage director at Kush Hospitality in Miami. Across

lager, created by Fat Bottom Brewing in O’Charley’s head quarters of Nashville, Tennes see. Its neutral palate com plements the brand’s menu, which is filled with all-Amer

“When you partner with a local brewery, it’s another hook to bring people through the doors.”

UPTOWN HOSPITALITY CUSTOMIZES ITS EXCLUSIVE BEERS TO FIT THE RESTAURANTS IN ITS PORTFOLIO.

LUKE HIGGS PHOTOGRAPHY / UPTOWN HOSPITALITY

24

FSRMAGAZINE .COM

FEBRUARY 2023

its restaurant system, Kush goes through four to five kegs each week, and Suarez says maintaining inventory and using locally grown ingredients that are available year-round are essential to creating “that experience and good connection to your guest.” Tropical-noted beers with year-round available fruits pro pelled Kush to partner with many rotating breweries and feature the best of what’s local in its Kaptain Kush series, Suarez says. The lineup has included a strawberry IPA and guava pale ale withMIA Brewery (inspired by its guava jelly burger), pine apple hibiscus pale ale with Tripping Animals Brewing, and mango pale ale with Tank Brewery. The teamhas also worked on a signature coconut cream ale with Beat Culture, a tan gerine lactose-treated blonde ale with Unbranded, and a hazy citrus IPA with Gulfstream. Easy Tiger’s 36 taps have 24 on rotation that house hun dreds of different beers. Nevertheless, two signature brews get love year after year: a helles lager called Easy with St. Elmo Brewing Company, and Shere Khan, a salted pecan stout, with Real Ale Brewing Company. “It’s 99.9 percent their doing and we’re piggybacking since they can get label approval, licensing, facilities, and they make everything and the recipes,” Strifler says of Easy Tiger’s brew ery collaborations. Although some restaurants opt to do their own in-house brewing, the time and financial commitment of such an undertaking can be a serious deterrent for many operators. Plus, in these partnerships, the breweries handle equipment, “We’re collaboratingwith them, they’re making a cool beer for us, andwe’re kind of scratching each other’s backs.” licensing, and label approval, while also interfacing with state alcoholic beverage agencies. That’s not to say restaurants don’t do their share of the hus tle. “You’ve got to agree to how much they’re going to make and howmuch you’re going to buy … and that you can sell it,” Strifler says. “[Do] whatever you need to do marketing-wise or price point–wise. You don’t want to lose that relationship, so whatever you say you’re going to do, do it.” Ultimately, securing collaborations can yield better profit margins, Barber says. Both restaurants and breweries are creating opportunities for more return visits and growing their respective customer base. Suarez echoes this sentiment. “We’re collaborating with them, they’re making a cool beer for us, and we’re kind of scratching each other’s back,” she says. “They’re making it exclusively for us, so when our guests come in and they really love that beer, we’re like, ‘You can only get it here.’”

ALL-IN-ONE SYSTEM Café-quality still and nitro cold brew at the turn of a dial.

NO GAS SERVICE NECESSARY PLUG-AND-PLAY USE WITH SEGAFREDO COLD BREW QUICK CONNECT

Ridiculously Easy

For more detai ls, scan here, or visit segafredofs.com ©2022 MZB-USA, Inc. Al l Rights Reserved

FEBRUARY 2023 25

FSRMAGAZINE .COM

FSR Print 7-22.indd 1

7/22/22 10:31 AM

POWER PLAYERS

Competing at the top of their game, these 10 restaurant groups marry the spirit of independent restaurants with the streamlined systems of chains. B Y AMA NDA B A L T A Z A R

W

hile not a rare or unusual breed, restaurant groups exist in an in-between space. They’re not quite independents, but they’re also not traditional chains. Instead, these

groups blend the spirit and sensibility of one-off restaurants with the structure and streamlined operations of multiunit brands. But beyond these basics, restaurant groups are just as varied as the concepts they comprise. Some stay local, filling up a sin gle market or region. Others build a presence in their home turf before journeying into new territories. Some groups have only a single location for each restaurant while others choose to grow certain brands within their portfolio. Regardless of these differences, restaurant groups are proving, time and again, that they’re a competitive force in the foodservice landscape—as illustrated by the following 10 hospitality brands. A

26 FEBRUARY 2023

FSRMAGAZ INE .COM