Elite Traveler Summer 2019

INSPIRE TOP 100 RESTAURANTS

“Our biggest inspiration is our guests; we have a huge regulars list, andmany have become friends”

52-58 Noma Copenhagen, Denmark Head chef: René Redzepi Contact booking@noma.dk, +45 3296 3297,

Core by Clare Smyth London, UK Head chef: Jonny Bone

noma.dk 2018/52 Epicure Paris, France Head chef: Eric Frechon Contact epicure@oetkercollection. com, +33 153 434 340, lebristolparis.com 2018/53 Atelier Crenn San Francisco, USA Head chef: Dominique Crenn Contact +1 415 440 0460, ateliercrenn.com 2018/54

Manresa Los Gatos, California, USA Head chef: David Kinch Contact +1 408 354 4330, manresarestaurant.com 2018/55 Mugaritz San Sebastián, Spain

Clare Smyth

FOOD FOR THOUGHT WITH CLARE SMYTH By Samantha Coles

sustainable haute cuisine. “I’m British and I really wanted us to be a British fine-dining restaurant. They are two things that don’t necessarily go together, as British food is traditionally more rustic in style.” The blend of high-end and casual is a refreshing twist that adds to Core’s atmosphere. She explains that she wants everyone who comes in to have a good time, and to make sure diners relax and enjoy themselves — something she thinks is more important than winning awards. She has won a number of those, too, notably ‘Best Female Chef’ by The World’s Best 50 Restaurants. There was controversy surrounding the award and whether there is a need to segregate the sexes; Smyth said at the time that it was strange but talks about how discussing gender issues can seem counterproductive. “Sometimes, it is almost patronizing. I think we have a good balance, that women are good role models and are always present, but they’ve got to be the best ones — you can’t ever sacrifice quality just because you think ‘oh we’ve got to include more women’ because it undermines what we are all trying to achieve. We need to make a conscious effort to include women, but there needs to be a balance.”

Head chef: Andoni Luis Aduriz Contact reservas@mugaritz.com, +34 943 522 455, mugaritz.com 2018/56 AlainDucasse au Plaza Athénée Paris, France Head chef: Romain Meder Contact Denis Courtiade, restaurant manager, adpa@dorchestercollection.com, 2018/58 ▲ The NoMad New York, USA Head chef: Daniel Humm Contact dining@thenomadhotel. com, +1 347 472 5660, thenomadhotel.com 2018/57 ▼ +33 153 676 500, alain-ducasse.com

As the first female chef to work at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay (who famously ate his words when he said she wouldn’t last — the restaurant held three Michelin stars for a decade with her at the helm), an MBE, caterer to the Royal Wedding, and now owner of her own restaurant, Core, you’d think Clare Smyth would be used to winning, but she is delighted to be the highest new entry in this year’s list, coming in at number 50. “For me, it’s the best accolade above every other accolade because it’s the people that come here as diners, the people who love coming here. Our biggest inspiration is our guests; we have a huge regulars list, and many have become friends — that is something that drives me every day, seeing happy people in the restaurant.” The vibe at Core is different from what you might expect; Smyth calls it “casual luxury,” taking a dish with humble ingredients like potato or carrot (the Lamb Carrot, a dish of braised lamb but with the carrot taking center stage, is one of Core’s signatures) and “flipping it on its head” to create