Elite Traveler September-October 2018

INTERNATIONAL FLAVOR The city has a variety of top-notch, non-Mexican restaurants for when you’ve had your fill of tacos. In hip Roma Norte, Sartoria turns out expertly prepared handmade pasta courtesy of chef Marco Carboni, who trained under the Italian master and restaurateur Massimo Bottura, chef patron of three-Michelin- starred Osteria Francescana. The cacio e pepe is not to be missed. In nearby up-and- coming neighborhood Juárez, Havre 77 — set inside a beautifully renovated 19th-century building —will transport you to Paris, with its bistro-style menu and a first-rate raw bar. If you’re craving super-fresh sushi, make a reservation at the intimate Rokai , located in an area that’s been dubbed “Little Tokyo.” sartoria.mx, havre77.com, edokobayashi.com TOP TABLES

TAKE FOUR//// TOP STAYS

1. HABITACIÓN NEGRA Ignacia Guest House

MODERNMEXICAN Mexico City is brimming with inventive chefs who are putting contemporary spins on classic dishes, while also celebrating the country’s own bounty. Of course, there’s Enrique Olvera of bucket-list- worthy Pujol . The sun-lit space in tiny Polanco has a Japanese vibe, with lots of clean lines and natural materials. Book the taco omakase to sit at the bar and sample nine courses paired with everything from sake to tequila. A few blocks away, Pujol alum Jorge Vallejo runs Quintonil , named for a Mexican herb. Here, an unfussy, airy dining room sets the stage for a hyper-local menu; a few favorites include the crab tostada and charred avocado tartare. You’ll have to travel south to the residential Jardines del Pedregal for a chance to try Edgar Núñez’s creations at Sud 777 , where a party vibe prevails. Artfully plated dishes get a boost from ingredients grown in the on-site garden. pujol.com, quintonil.com, sud777.com

STICKWITH TRADITION There’s a reason these old-school spots have been around for decades. In Centro Histórico, the family-owned, white-tablecloth El Cardenal is as classic as it gets — and the building itself is a beauty, with high ceilings and stained-glass windows. Suited waiters serve up everything from chile relleno another storied icon, open since 1957 in the off-the- tourist-track Azcapotzalco neighborhood. Make sure to start with the sopa seca de natas (layers of thin crepes soaked in a tomato cream sauce) and order something from the mezcal cart. And after a night of drinking mezcal, there’s no better remedy than breakfast at Fonda Margarita in Tlacoquemecatl del Valle. It’s an early-morning institution known for its guisados (meat stews) and black-bean-and- egg scramble. restauranteelcardenal.com, nicosmexico.mx, Fonda Margarita +52 55 5559 6358 to chicken with mole. Restaurante Nicos is

A made-from-scratch breakfast of traditional Mexican dishes, a dreamy garden filled with orange trees and stylish, Instagram-ready public spaces are just a few reasons to stay at this new boutique hotel in laid-back La Roma. The main draw, however, may just be the Habitación Negra, or Black Room. It’s the largest of the hotel’s five guest rooms, each of which is named and decorated in a single color; other options include yellow, blue, green and pink. It may sound gimmicky, but it works. What the Negra lacks in size — just 430 sq ft — it makes up for with its sleek design, including a separate seating area with leather chairs, a show- stopping black-marble bathroom and a quiet, private patio for sipping your morning café de olla. From $443 per night. Contact Julio Salazar, manager, hola@ignacia.mx, +52 55 2121 0966, ignacia.mx 2. PASAJE PENTHOUSE Las Alcobas This longtime luxury favorite in Polanco feels like a private oasis within the bustling city; you can’t help but feel relaxed upon stepping foot inside. Come October — thanks to a renovation project overseen by the talented duo Yabu Pushelberg — it will debut a softer, more refined look in each of its 35 rooms, including the one-bedroom Pasaje Penthouse. Think neutral tones and textured details, such as punched leather and custom wood furniture. The 1,313-sq-ft space is bright and sunny, with floor-to-ceiling windows that face a wraparound furnished terrace — which is where the indoor/outdoor fireplace comes in handy. Save time for a body treatment using a custom-made scrub at the on-site Aurora Spa and dinner at e Patria, where legendary chef Martha Ortiz puts a modern spin on can classics. $3,250 per night. Contact Michael Chiche, general manager, che@lasalcobas.com, +52 553 300 3900, lasalcobas.com ESIDENTIAL SUITE Seasons Hotel Mexico City grande dame hotel — which stands sentry on a corner right off of nergetic Paseo de la Reforma —may have more than two decades r its belt, but it’s anything but fusty. That’s because a 2015 o-bottom redo left it feeling fresh and modern, with 240 rooms up in off-white and maroon, and a lush, romantic inner courtyard never want to leave. Two stellar restaurants (one Mexican, one n) and one of the best cocktail bars in the city only sweeten the deal. then there’s the antique-filled, 2,228-sq-ft Presidential Suite on the oor, which overlooks the main avenue. It has a super-spacious oom, gleaming white-marble bathroom and separate office, living ining areas. Guests who book it receive a bottle of Dom Pérignon ccess to the house BMW 7 Series. $7,000 per night. Contact Sagrario Guerrero, reservations tor, sagrario.guerrero@fourseasons.com, +52 555 230 1809, easons.com . REGIS SUITE St. Regis Mexico City stunning hotel is centrally located right on Paseo de la Reforma. it’s all about the service, with a butler available 24/7 and iendly perks like a candy trolley during weekend turndown and the n to turn your suite into a glamping site, complete with a tent. e’s plenty of space for that in the 14th-floor, 3,089-sq-ft St. Regis which has a soothing natural palette with subtle pops of green. e are two bedrooms, a large living space, dining area with seating for modern kitchen and even a steam room. If you’re in town during of the Dead, reserve an outdoor seat at the revamped King Cole Bar, h overlooks the parade route and serves expertly crafted libations. $4,800 per night. Contact Mayra Cruz Cortés, butler service-desk ager, mexico.city@stregis.com, +52 55 5228 1818, ismexicocity.com Dulc Mexi From mchi 3. PR Four This the e unde top-t done you’ll Italia And top fl bedr and d and a From direc fours 4. ST The This Here, kid-fr optio Ther Suite, Ther eight, Day whic From man streg

Sud 777 is all about using

produce from its on-site garden. We love the look of this cucumber tart

Sample the handmade pasta at Sartoria, care of head chef Marco Carboni