Elite Traveler November-December 2015

EXPLORE PARIS

EAT

TOP TABLES: WHERE TO DINE NOW ▲ FOR EXCELLENT SERVICE The most grown-up of the néo bistro set (see also Le Chateaubriand, Frenchie), Bertrand Grébaut’s Septime is contemporary and Nordic-influenced, yet grown-up and comfortable with great service. Don’t call ahead. The best way to get a table is to take a walk in the 11th arrondissement and pop your head in. 80 Rue de Charonne, 11e, +33 1 4367 3829, septime-charonne.fr

THE CHEF ERIC FRECHON If you are fortunate enough to eat the poulet en vessie at Le Bristol’s Epicure restaurant – served tableside, with no little theatricality – consider this: Chef Frechon, now in his early fifties, only started cooking to raise money for a bicycle. Since he took on responsibility for the fine dining at Le Bristol, he has cooked for Sarkozy, the Beckhams (who ordered the aforementioned chicken), and legions of international foodies. The dining room at Epicure is less uptight in ambience than some of its palace hotel contemporaries; could it be anything to do with Frechon’s twinkly, warm side? Twinkles aside, he is a self-confessed “control freak” – not only does he have the weight of those three Michelin stars for Epicure on his shoulders but he also runs Lazare, the brasserie at Saint-Lazare station, and has just joined The Lanesborough in London, following its lavish restoration, to open Céleste. More stars on the way? You bet your bicycle. 112 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 1e +33 1 5343 4340, lebristolparis.com

▲ FOR EXQUISITE PRODUCE Lauded for his precise, produce-led cooking at Agape Substance, David Toutain opened Restaurant David Toutain at the end of 2013 near Les Invalides. Expect veg-centric dishes, served in a minimal space (above). 29 Rue Surcouf, 7e, +33 1 4550 1110, davidtoutain.com ▲ FOR FINE DINING With Le Meurice’s former head chef Yannick Alléno in the kitchen, the grand Pavillon Ledoyen – known as Alléno Paris – has swiftly gained three Michelin stars. In terms of 21st-century classical French cuisine, it’s the real thing: think caviar with beef marrow mousse. 1 Avenue Dutuit, 8e, +33 1 5305 1001, yannick-alleno.com

From main: Eric Frechon; blue lobster with smoked ratte potatoes at Epicure; terrace at Epicure

Words: Sophie Dening. Photos: Lionel Bonaventure/AFP/Getty Images, B Schmuck, Thai Toutain, Nico Alary, Chrissy Lambert, James Kezman