Elite Traveler May-June 2018

INSPIRE TOP 100 RESTAURANTS

Brae Birregurra, Australia Head chef: Dan Hunter

The Ledbury London Head chef: Brett Graham

95–100

10 MINUTES WITH… Dan Hunter

Brae Birregurra, Australia

Head chef: Dan Hunter Contact Simon Freeman, restaurant manager, enquire@braerestaurant.com, +61 352 362 226 braerestaurant.com New Entry

Did you always intend to return to Australia? I’m Australian, so it’s where I feel most at home. It’s where I feel I can best produce cuisine that’s interesting for our guests because it’s something that’s true to me. To be able to cook what’s on the inside and what I feel connected to, I had to be in Australia. Why did you decide to locate Brae out in the countryside? The style of cuisine I want to cook means being immersed in the natural environment. During a meal here we encourage people to connect with the outdoors. We serve a portion of the meal and then give people a chance to walk around the property and explore the garden to see the ingredients growing. It’s a chance for guests to slow down and feel relaxed. Brae is famous for its iced oyster, but which dish are you most proud of? Sometimes the ones I’m most proud of are only served for moment. When I’m out in the garden before service, there might be a certain aroma or ingredients that are ripening together. Quite often you can make a dish that’s electric based on that vibe. Of course not every dish is like that. The iced oyster, for example, is quite a polarizing dish. It’s one that’s very unique to Brae but it’s one that’s based more on technique and idea than product and place. These conceptual dishes help to lighten the mood and keep everyone excited about what’s coming next. By Sam Forsdick two or three services, so they’re a snapshot of the

Dan Hunter is not looking to emulate anyone else. He’s on his own path at Brae to serve quintessential Australian cuisine. In his quest to deliver the very best his native country has to offer, Hunter grows ingredients on-site, presenting them simply and elegantly. A fine-dining experience that’s based on seasonality and sustainability, the food served here makes the trip out to rural Birregurra more than worthwhile. How does it feel to be named as one of Elite Traveler ’s Top 100 Restaurants? It’s great. It’s always good to know my customers enjoy Brae enough to tell people about it. What is the concept behind Brae? The concept is to focus on producing interesting and tasty food with ingredients that are grown organically on our farm. We have a strong emphasis on sustainability and cook food that’s an expression of any individual day in this region of Australia. It’s a restaurant for the current mind-set. Your career has taken you all over the world. Which places stood out for you? If you’re interested in cuisine, travel is of the upmost importance. I worked in Spain, in San Sebastián, for two years and I have very fond memories of that time. Japan’s a bit closer to Australia than Europe, and I love going there. I have always admired the care, attention to detail and craftsmanship in Japanese cuisine.

10 MINUTES WITH… Brett Graham

Having led London’s sophisticated fine-dining restaurant The Ledbury to its two-Michelin-starred status, Australian-born chef Brett Graham is known across the globe for his exquisite cuisine. As The Ledbury once again claims its place among the world’s Top 100 Restaurants, the acclaimed chef talks to Elite Traveler about the dishes he’s had such success in creating. How does it feel to have The Ledbury continually voted among the Top 100 Restaurants in the world by readers? We are 13 years old this year, so we’re very pleased that we are maintaining a strong position by being in the top 100. What can people try at your restaurants that they won’t find elsewhere? I am particularly passionate about cooking deer as an alternative meat. It is healthy, natural and all the varieties have different qualities. Has your cooking evolved according to food trends? I suppose it has in a small way, as different ingredients and suppliers cross our path. Everyone seems to be fermenting ingredients at the moment. I sometimes use these as a seasoning. They may be finely chopped to season a sauce or added to a dish for amazing flavor. What are you inspired by? I’m inspired by wild ingredients like mushrooms, English partridge, woodcock, sika deer, Chinese water deer and hare. These types of meats are flavored by the wild food the animals eat. Is there a dish you’re especially excited by? We have a dish in which hen of the woods mushrooms are grilled over charcoal and rosemary, then served with potato emulsion and aged, belted Galloway beef fat. It’s a really simple dish and one that I’m very proud of. What plans do you have for 2018? I want to keep on developing the team and hopefully create an on-site aging room for the kitchen. By Lauren Jade Hill

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Photos Peter Bartlett, Colin Page, Scott Frances