Elite Traveler May-June 2015

GERARD BASSET WINE ICONS

that the company built its international reputation. Luiz was the son-in-law of António José da Silva who had acquired the company in 1894. Not only did he skillfully manage production, contributing to some notable improvements, but he was also a talented marketer, ensuring that his ports were well known abroad, especially in the important UK market. But disaster struck in 1981 when a fire destroyed the Quinta do Noval lodges based in Vila Nova de Gaia. Many casks of valuable port were burned and most of the company records were also destroyed in the fire. In 1993 Quinta do Noval was purchased by French insurance company AXA. Christian Seely, a young, dynamic and charismatic Englishman, was put in charge and given the means to restore the prestige of the house, which he did brilliantly. He continues to ensure its excellence today. Quinta do Noval Nacional, the flagship wine, started in the 1920s. Port vineyards, like most vineyards around the world in the latter part of the 19th century, had been destroyed by phylloxera, a little louse that attacks the roots of vines. After several years of research it was discovered that grafting European vines onto the rootstocks of resistant American species of vines provided a solution. In the mid 1920s, António José da Silva replanted a small vineyard around the property, with ungrafted vines, possibly just as an experiment. While ungrafted vines do not normally survive in the Port region, but for some mysterious reason, still unknown today, this vineyard did. From those young vines a vintage port was produced in 1931. This Quinta Noval Nacional 1931 would quickly establish itself as a very special wine. A bottle was sold in 1988 at the Graycliffe restaurant in the Bahamas for $5,900, a world record at the time for a bottle of vintage port. The grape varieties (ungrafted) used for Quinta do Noval Nacional are a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão and Sousão and it is vinified in the same manner as the other vintage ports produced by Quinta do Noval. The name Nacional is not connected to the grape Touriga Nacional, but refers to the fact that vines are grown on their own roots (as opposed to being grafted onto American stock), directly in the soil of the nation (hence Nacional). Over the years, demand for all vintages of Quinta do Noval Nacional has grown and a new release is always anticipated eagerly. Quinta do Noval Nacional’s last vintage, in 2011, was no exception and it has received rave reviews and extremely high scores from wine critics around the world. Having been privileged to taste it on several occasions I can easily understand why.

Vintage port is always a sought- after wine and one of the most evocative names among producers is Quinta do Noval. Traditionally sipped as the perfect end to a sumptuous meal, Quinta do Noval Nacional has cult status and is good for drinking or investment

TASTING NOTES

Quinta do Noval Nacional 2011 Very bright, deep purple color with a pink rim Fabulous nose of dark prune and black fruit tart with chocolate shavings and custard sugar sprinkled on it Astonishing palate with a superb velvety texture and an incredibly concentrated fruity character, delicious candied fruit, fig and sweet spices and a wonderful chocolaty finish. So young and already so easy to drink 99/100 pts Quinta do Noval Nacional 1997 Medium-deep mature ruby color with a garnet rim Superb aromas of candied cherry, fig and raisin with touches of praline Firm structure, but very ripe with a silky mouth-feel, spicy on the palate, with a long liquorice finish Delicious, with a lot of potential still 96/100 pts Quinta do Noval Nacional 1994 Medium-full garnet color with a crimson rim Lovely nose with dried fruit, roasted herbs and cocoa Round and smooth on the palate, with delicious cherry coated in chocolate, leading to a cinnamon finish Drinking well now but capable of going on for a long time 94/100 pts

Great ports are truly stunning wines that deserve as much consideration as any other fine wines. Examples from leading houses such as Croft, Dow, Fonseca, Graham, Niepoort, Quinta do Noval, Ramos Pinto, Taylor or Warre’s get real wine lovers extremely excited. These fortified wines all have a superb character and provide us with incredible sensations. Of all the delicious ports on the market, Quinta do Noval Nacional has a cult status. It is a vintage port and therefore only produced in better years, when the weather conditions have been favorable. It is made in tiny quantities and unusually the grapes come from ungrafted vines. Quinta do Noval, the house producing Quinta do Noval Nacional, has a history which dates back to 1715. The house has changed hands a few times, but it is under the leadership of Luiz Vasconcelos Porto