Elite Traveler May-June 2016

INFLUENCE FASHION COLUMN

elite traveler MAY/JUNE 2016 58

Laurie Brookins on menswear

In recent years, themenswear sector has given us showstopping collections of technical fabrics and glorious hues. Behind the scenes, however, Laurie Brookins has picked up on a trend for rediscovered refinement and welcomes this wearable direction

well as complete choice in linings, buttons and myriad other details. Bespoke and made to measure programs are being extended beyond suiting: Zegna’s “Casual Luxury” program allows clients to order made to measure sportswear that includes denim and outerwear, while at Stefano Ricci, Niccolò Ricci – Stefano’s son and the current CEO – points to “super luxury” accessories, such as wallets available in a range of exotic skins or crocodile sneakers in the label’s iconic Ricci orange. EXULT IN A RELAXED SILHOUETTE Regardless of whether you opt for off the rack, made to measure or bespoke, the other great news about the latest collections is that designers’ interest in the ultra slim suit seems to be waning. More relaxed, classic fits dominated the spring and fall runways, seen in roomier jackets, more relaxed shoulders and pants with slightly higher waists. The latter was shown at Brioni, where those higher waists offered the added benefit of elongating the leg, while Stefano Ricci is among the labels embracing the double-breasted jacket for spring/summer, part of the “neo-conservative” trend that feels very of the moment. INDULGE IN LAYERING Knits are key to modernizing the look of a suit, not only with turtlenecks replacing the shirt and tie for fall, but also the layering effect of a crew-neck sweater in place of a vest, or a cardigan over a double-breasted jacket and cashmere T-shirt. Brunello Cucinelli’s fall 2016 collection is teeming with the cashmere sweaters and pliable jackets crafted in Solomeo, the Umbrian village Cucinelli has made famous. On weekends, it’s not uncommon to find sleek Italian cars climbing the hills to reach the boutiques Cucinelli has set up adjacent to his workshops; these are men who indeed seem to have taken Epictetus’s words to heart.

“Know, first, who you are, and then adorn yourself accordingly.” So said Greek philosopher Epictetus roughly 1,900 years ago — yet it’s an idea that applies to the state of men’s style today. Menswear collections continue to outshine womenswear as the more compelling (and successful) fashion category. Menswear is filled with bright colors and vibrant prints that recall the Peacock Revolution of the 1960s. Beyond the “athleisure” trend and high-wattage flash of looks that seem tailor-made for red carpets, you’ll find a quieter sophistication within the latest collections, enhanced by an ease that’s both wholly modern and highly wearable. How does this new take on tailoring and refinement translate to your wardrobe? Here’s a three-pronged approach: MAKE IT BESPOKE With its origins in the 16th century, when it meant “spoken for”, bespoke suiting – and its less expensive, less customized brother, made to measure – has enjoyed a recent surge in

popularity thanks to online shopping. Personalized service has become key to the upscale retail experience, regardless of whether it’s rooted in e-commerce or bricks and mortar, but a curious trend has emerged: men are doing their research online, then walking into stores to close the sale. And why not? If you’ve ever ventured into Tom Ford on London’s Sloane Street or Ermenegildo Zegna on New York’s Fifth Avenue, you know the allure of being measured by a master tailor, and the superior fit of a jacket when everything from the arch of your back to the circumference of your wrist are taken into consideration. It’s important to know the difference between bespoke and made to measure, especially as the two terms are often (and incorrectly) interchanged. Made to measure, or MTM, uses an existing pattern and style, which is then tailored to fit your body. Bespoke is 100 percent custom made, starting with a pattern built on your body (many fittings can take place in this process). Bespoke includes a wider range of fabrics, as

From top: Brunello Cucinelli’s luxurious layering; Ermenegildo Zegna tailoring; Tom Ford bespoke

Laurie Brookins is a New York-based fashion journalist and stylist