Elite Traveler May-June 2016

EXPLORE TOKYO

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NEIGHBORHOODWATCH Ikejiri

When picking Tokyo’s trendiest neighborhood, most guidebooks give the crown of cool to Nakameguro. However, a phalanx of commercial developments and the opening of an infamous discount retailer, Don Quixote, have left its street cred in a bit of a mess. Discerning residents now locate themselves further north along the Meguro River closer to Ikejiri-Ohashi station. Just short of Shibuya, most commuters whizz through on express trains that don’t stop here – and that suits the locals just fine. Indeed, some proprietors say they chose their spots because of – not despite – their inconvenient locations: the thinking goes that it filters out the riffraff. The first test of a neighborhood’s trendiness is its coffee. The Workers , a riverside coffee shop connected to a co-working space upstairs, opens early and serves the best brews. On the other side of Yamate Dori (the main north-south road), Paradise Tokyo is the first standalone store of hipster outfitters Wacko Maria. The in-store café comes a close second in the coffee contest. There is a huddle of other apparel stores across the street: the small womenswear brand Lolo , menswear select store Output , and the very cool concept store M.I.U. , which has fashion, bags, ceramics and more. For dining, venture northwest, parallel to the river, along the Ikejiri shopping street, where trendy bistros and organic supermarkets sit alongside old family-run shops. TOLO is an adorable bread and sandwich shop where the bakers wear trendy denim overalls smothered in flour. Owan is a smart izakaya (an informal Japanese eating place) known for its high-quality sashimi and seasonal vegetables that pair well with sake (Japanese rice wine). Further along is Ogino , a small French restaurant beloved among locals for its world-class food and neighborhood prices. For something casual head back to Yamate Dori for the extremely popular Yakumo . Its specialty is wonton ramen, which contains pork or shrimp dumplings in the soup. Look for the line of people snaking up the stairs of what looks like a very ordinary apartment block.

Clockwise from top: Meguro River; Wacko Maria's Paradise Tokyo store

Photos: Alamy, Kyle Ford/Gallerystock, Getty Images, Daniel Krieger

INSIDER TIPS Yukari Sakamoto is a chef and the writer of Food Sake Tokyo , a guidebook to the city’s culinary scene, and its associated blog, foodsaketokyo.com She offers private foodie tours of the city.

BEST COFFEE

BEST FOODIE DESTINATION

BEST FINE DINING

Turret Coffee. The owner Kiyoshi Kawasaki serves super espressos in vintage cups. Perfect for a kick after an early start at the nearby fish market. Plus it opens at 7am – early for this city.

Takashimaya department store basement food hall in Shinjuku is my favorite. They have outlets from the Michelin-starred Kyoto Kikunoi, an eat-in counter with patisseries from Tokyo’s top pastry chefs, and a selection of sake and shochu (a spirit more popular than sake in Japan).

Narisawa. It’s mind blowing… delicious... beautiful. There is also a sister restaurant called Toyoken that takes old-fashioned Japanese versions of Western food (curry rice, etc.) and elevates them to a new level. narisawa-yoshihiro.com