Elite Traveler May-June 2016

elite traveler MAY/JUNE 2016 119

Bartenderwatch GenYamamoto

Yukari Sakamoto, chef and writer picks his places to eat at Tsukiji fish market:

Tokyo has any number of cocktail bars manned by purist bartenders obsessively trying to craft the perfect drink. For a more creative experience, however, pay Gen Yamamoto a visit. The drinks he perfects are purely his own, having honed his skills at a bar in New York, but found customers too fixated on size and speed. In Japan, he has his own space with just eight seats. Behind a beautiful counter made from a single slice of tree trunk and dressed in his signature white tuxedo, this is where Gen showcases his own style. Each drink is served as one course among four or six, and the menu changes with the seasons – in the fall it will likely include persimmons, paired with a rare shochu (alcohol distilled from barley, potatoes and such); in summer, watermelons; and in spring, a hint of cherry blossom. genyamamoto.jp

Go where the fishmongers go, which means not sushi. Tsukiji Toritoh has the best fried chicken. For ramen, Yajima, which serves oyster ramen when in season. Tenfusa does amazing eel tempura over rice. If you want sushi, go to Ginza for lunch. See more of Sakamoto's tips on page 120.

So long, Tsukiji The clock is ticking for Tokyo’s famous fish market at Tsukiji. The facility is scheduled to close in its current location on November 2 and relocate to a new custom-built building a little further around Tokyo Bay. The move has caused divisions among those who work there, many would prefer to stay put, and some have decided to close their businesses instead. The metropolitan government, however, says the ramshackle buildings of the current market are unsafe, and the new facility will be cleaner and more hygienic. It will also have dedicated areas for visitors that won’t disrupt the daily work of the market – a constant complaint of the wholesalers in recent years. The atmospheric Outer Market – a network of streets home to sushi restaurants, noodle shops, knife makers and other specialist food merchants – will remain, so the sense of Tsukiji will not be lost entirely.

TAKE THREE/// OF THE BEST NOODLES

While new ramen shops make a splash in New York and London, in Tokyo the native noodle is back in vogue: soba noodles made from buckwheat have a higher place in the culture, being consumed at important occasions including New Year. And while ramen restaurants are invariably casual affairs, more and more elegant soba restaurants with creative menus and refined decor are opening. Here are three of the best:

Matsubara-an Keyaki is the smart and spacious new Harajuku branch of a famous shop from Kamakura, a distant seaside suburb. Guests can watch the chefs making the noodles as they enter. The side dishes are delicious and beautiful and include items such as sashimi or grilled duck. matsubara-an.com

Kouga is luxury soba on a backstreet in Nishi-Azabu, one of Tokyo’s smartest enclaves. The chef uses an extremely high ratio of buckwheat with very little added flour, making the noodles delicious but relatively expensive. Cold noodles with slices of sudachi citrus fruit are a specialty. osobanokouga.com

Kawakami-an is open late and attracts well-heeled fashion types for midnight meals. The noodles are relatively thick and textured, making for a sturdy bite. The cold noodles with walnut dipping sauce are not to be missed. There are two branches in Tokyo – in Aoyama

and Azabu-Juban. k awakamian.com

Talented Trio words: Andrea Fazzari