Elite Traveler May-June 2016

EXPLORE TOKYO

EAT & DRINK

TOKYO’S TALENTED TRIO A trio of remarkable chefs – who are also close friends – stand out in this foodie city. Zaiyu Hasegawa of Den serves playfully reimagined kaiseki (a traditional, multi-course dinner) at Florilège, Hiroyasu Kawate presents modern French-Japanese cuisine; and classic French fare focused on roasted meats is at Susumu Shimizu’s Anis. In their kitchens, these young men are obsessive. Front of house, as well as on the plate, their personalities shine through.

DEN, CHEF HASEGAWA “This is home and clients are family. I want to make my family happy,” says Hasegawa of Den, located in Jimbocho. Multi-course kaiseki meals can be stuffy, but not here. The chef and his team quietly assess each diner’s mood and adjust ingredients and preparations. His hallmark sense of humor is ever-present, evident in the smiley face carrots peeking out of an intricately assembled salad, or the tongue-in-cheek “Star Comebacks” caramel dessert served in a mini Starbucks-inspired mug. jimbochoden.com

FLORILÈGE, CHEF KAWATE Chef Kawate’s modernist French-Japanese restaurant is located in Aoyama. The focus of the dramatic space is the dark slate bar surrounding an open kitchen. His minimalist usage of colors, shapes and textures reflect his singular artistry, while locally sourced ingredients introduce diners to new flavors. Named ‘One To Watch’ by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2016, Kawate presents with each course – 13 at dinner – ideas and poses questions for his guests to contemplate. “I want them to experience the food, and to feel delight and happiness,” he says. aoyama-florilege.jp

ANIS, CHEF SHIMIZU Over in Hatsudai, chef Shimizu’s cozy restaurant Anis is the place to go for impeccably roasted meats and fowl. The feeling is of a rustic country dining, and Shimizu is clearly in love with his craft. He spent seven years in France, working with Alain Passard at Arpège and butcher Hugo Desnoyer, learning the techniques of preparing meat. But his vegetable dishes are equally fine, as are his desserts. Simplicity and attention to detail are his hallmarks. restaurant-anis.jp