Elite Traveler May-June 2016

elite traveler MAY/JUNE 2016 117

Foodies staying in the Conrad's Royal Hamarikyu Suite can enjoy a journey of cuisines in a single meal. The evening starts with appetizers at the 28th-floor bar and then three main courses, Japanese at Kazahana, modern Chinese at China Blue, and innovative French at Collage.

OUT OF TOWN Izu Peninsula / Asaba Ryokan

Kanazawa / Beniya Mukayu A brand new Shinkansen (bullet train) line means the beautiful coastal city of Kanazawa is now within easy reach of the capital. It is home to one of Japan’s most beautiful gardens, Kenrokuen, and wonderful seafood. The best place to stay is Beniya Mukayu, a traditional inn with a modern design. The 1,180 sq ft Wakamurasaki suite, with a private outdoor bath and floor-to-ceiling sliding doors opening onto cherry and maple trees, is the most beautiful room. From $1,030 a night mukayu.com Mount Fuji / Hoshinoya Fuji Hoshinoya Fuji is within striking distance of Tokyo and offers luxurious accommodation with a view of Mount Fuji. Despite billing itself as a luxury “glamping” resort, there are no tents but sturdy minimalist cabins instead (about 430 sq ft) with small private terraces. There are morning canoe trips, forest horse rides or stargazing with an astronomer. Eat in the Cloud Kitchen, reached by hiking up wooden decks that step up the mountainside through the forest. Two hours south-west of the capital in the hills of Izu Peninsula is Asaba Ryokan. Dating back to 1675, it has only about a dozen rooms, each one elegantly updated with subtle modern accents. Moegi and Matsukaze are the best rooms overlooking a serene pond. Each room has a female attendant, dressed in a beautiful kimono who anticipates every need of her guests. As well as communual hot spring baths, there is an indoor bath that can be used privately. From $1,710 a night asaba-ryokan.com From $350 a night hoshinoyafuji.com

Royal Hamarikyu Suite / Conrad With the best bay-facing rooms of any hotel in the capital, the Conrad deserves more attention than it gets. The surrounding Shiodome business area isn’t immediately interesting, but on closer inspection you’re just a short walk from the Ginza, down the street from the Tsukiji fish market, and across the road from a beautiful park and teahouse. The top-floor Royal Hamarikyu Suite (1,184 sq ft) is bright and modern with vast windows looking out towards the Pacific. Two bedrooms – one king, one twin – make it a good choice for families. For dining, China Blue is one of several top-notch choices, and the 28th-floor bar has a good vibe at sundown. From $5,070 a night conradhotels3.hilton.com

Modern Japanese Suite / The Ritz-Carlton While some may prefer the larger, namesake suite, more adventurous travelers will be interested to hear The Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo recently unveiled its new Japanese-style suite that creates the feeling of staying in a traditional inn – albeit one that’s high up inside Tokyo’s tallest hotel. What it lacks in size (1,076 sq ft) this residence makes up for in detail and quality. Guests remove their shoes on entering the tatami-floored suite, and sleep on a luxurious supersized and elevated futon. Wooden pillars and ceilings and Kyoto-crafted fabrics add to the sense that this is no ordinary hotel suite. From $856 a night ritzcarlton.com