Elite Traveler May-June 2016

elite traveler MAY/JUNE 2016 109

THE RATINGS EXPLAINED The food

and white tablecloths. Inmy mind the fact that DiverXO and Alinea are doing things that are wildly different and still get three stars, legitimizes them.” Respect and controversies Longevity is one reason that the guide is as respected as it is – independence is cited by many as another contributing factor. “As far as the industry is concerned I think they respect the way we work and we are one of – if not the only – organization that measures them against their peers around the world,” says Burr. “For a chef to have a star puts them into a special league.” For Diego Guerrero, chef and owner of the starred DSTAgE restaurant in Madrid, it is simple. “Our star gets people to come to my work. They put you on the map and ensure the

“When we got the first star everybody said we wouldn’t get the second because of the way we do food and service, but I didn’t care. I knew we were making something different and we were doing it our way. That was the most important thing,” says Muñoz. “When we got the second star people still said we couldn’t get a third and when we did everybody went crazy.” For Grant Achatz, the chef-owner of Alinea in Chicago, the fact that Michelin is unafraid to award the stars to more modern and innovative restaurants is key. “I like the fact that they give them to somebody who breaks the traditional mold of what a three-star restaurant should be. That tells me that they are cognizant of what’s going on in the world of gastronomy,” he says. “They are not saying only Ducasse and Ramsay can get three stars because they have candelabras

Three star restaurants Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey.

Two star restaurants Excellent cooking, worth a detour.

“The inspectors do have to be passionate about the business, but there is such a huge variety in the guide – they never get jaded” Rebecca Burr Editor, Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland

One star restaurants A very good restaurant in its category. Bib Gourmand restaurants Good meals at moderate prices. The comfort Hotels can be rated one to five in pavilion icons, while restaurants are scored one to five in spoons and forks, ranging from “quite comfortable” to “luxury in the traditional style”.

press and the dining public know about you too,” he says. But he doesn’t take the stars too much to heart. “You don’t work to achieve the stars, you have to work for you and the public.” But the guide does attract criticism, including the accusation that it has not changed with times, reflecting trends and innovation in cooking. Burr disagrees. “We have always been at the forefront of acknowledging any change in the industry,” she says. This, in turn, has led to another charge. “People say, ‘Michelin has changed, they award stars to such different places now’, but we haven't changed, it is the restaurants,” Burr explains. Guerrero had previously been awarded two stars in his old restaurant El Club Allard and eyebrows were raised when he was awarded his first star just five months after opening DSTAgE. He sees this as evidence the guide is tuned in to

Photos: Alamy, Corbis, Laura Lajh Prijatelj, Pierre Monetta