Elite Traveler July-August 2018

EXPLORE CAPE COD GUIDE TO CAPE COD

Historical features Built in 1957, the Wellfleet Drive-In continues to entertain thousands of patrons all summer long. The theater has been upgraded with digital projection and a Dolby Digital sound system that broadcasts over your car radio; however, it still boasts individual pole-mounted speakers — most of which still work. As was the case more than 60 years ago, ticket sales are cash only. wellfleetcinemas.com

Since the mid-19th century, when train service first connected Boston to the upper region of the hook-shaped peninsula that is Cape Cod, New England’s wealthy elite have summered here. Former President Grover Cleveland built the Cape’s first ‘summer White House’ during the 1890s, and the Kennedys began vacationing in the village of Hyannis Port only a few decades later. Spanning 339 square miles with more than 500 miles of sandy beaches, the Cape acts as a barrier island to a large swath of Massachusetts shore; but unlike a traditional island, which typically fosters a single dominant culture and lifestyle, Cape Cod is a patchwork of four distinct regions. The historic Upper Cape is home to loads of charming museums and a popular ferry connection to Martha’s Vineyard. The Mid-Cape is diverse and densely populated by miniature golf and ice cream establishments, but is also rife with tranquil ports and harbors. The Lower Cape, elegant and picturesque, is best known for its luxurious resorts, quaint towns and exclusive golf clubs. And the Outer Cape, with its national-park-protected seashore, is wild and windswept but also refined, thanks to the cosmopolitan culture of its largest town, Provincetown. Simply put, Cape Cod offers something for everyone.

by Shaun Tolson

MEMORABLE MEALS From intimate cafes to fine dining, a meal in Cape Cod is best served with sea views and a glass of crisp white wine

Clean Slate Eatery Established in 2016, this intimate 17-seat restaurant in West Dennis began as a series of pop-up restaurants executed by chefs Jason Montigel and Patrick Monahan. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday in the high season, Clean Slate Eatery embraces modernist cuisine and aims to deliver recognizable flavors in unexpected or unusual forms. Although the monthly tasting menus chart only six courses, guests are likely to receive almost a dozen, especially during the summer. Reservations are paramount and sometimes must be made a month in advance. cleanslateeatery.com

Blackfish Now in its second decade of operation, Blackfish in Truro continues to serve decadent upscale food in a sophisticated yet comfortable setting with exposed brick walls, copper-topped tables and wrought-iron accents. Executive chef Eric Jansen has called the Cape home for more than 30 years and adheres to the seasons when menu planning. Bright, vibrant flavors and a plethora of fresh- caught local seafood define Blackfish’s summer menus, while braised wagyu short ribs and a variety of rich wild-game dishes punctuate the fall. +1 508 349 3399

Water Street Kitchen From many popular spots on the Cape, a trip to Water Street Kitchen in Woods Hole requires commitment, but the meal that awaits such intrepid gourmands will justify the lengthy journey. Chef John Wilson relies on sustainably fished and farmed ingredients and prepares everything from scratch. The menu, which changes with the seasons, comprises small plates and supper- sized portions reflecting Wilson’s eclectic global inspirations. Even better, the consistently impressive fare is paired with waterfront views. waterstreetkitchen.com

Spinnaker The aroma of Mediterranean food abounds in this 49-seat Brewster restaurant run by chef Rob DeSimone, who attended culinary school in Italy and trained at a two-Michelin-starred restaurant on the Adriatic Sea. Despite his southern European inspirations, DeSimone sources local ingredients that showcase the best of Cape Cod. Spinnaker’s menu changes seasonally, yet a few standout offerings return each summer. These include handmade gnocchi with lobster in a lemon-butter sauce; and Sicilian-inspired swordfish agrodolce, topped with a sauce made from pears, pine nuts, raisins, peppers and red onions. spincape.com

Photos Randall Perry Photography, Cape Cod Chamber of Commerce, Greta Georgina