Elite Traveler January-February 2018

EXPLORE LISBON GUIDE TO LISBON

Made-in-Portugal products on a private tour A Context Travel culinary expert introduces authentic Portuguese products on the private three-hour Bica to Ginja: Lisbon Food Tour. Throughout your journey you will sample sweets like pastéis de nata , the iconic orange-and-cinnamon-flavored custard tart, and visit some of Lisbon’s best markets to try delicacies. Sample traditional goat cheese, prosciutto and Moscato wine at Time Out market, enjoy canned sardines, tuna and mackerel at Conservas, and end the afternoon with typical petiscos (tapas) such as bolinhos de bacalhau (codfish cakes) and multiple drinks, including Ginja, a cherry-flavored liqueur. contexttravel.com

city in 1755, the jacaranda-bordered Edouardo VII park sits alongside hotels and splendid Belle Époque buildings with wrought- iron balconies that line the Avenida da Liberdade. This landscaped pedestrian promenade hosts apartments and hotels with chic designer shops and restaurants. Lisbon, a cultured, sophisticated and safe city enjoys balmy weather, fabulously fresh local foods and regional wines, all served in fine restaurants where the prices are as welcoming as the English-speaking staff.

Lisbon’s delights are best seen from the maze of cobblestone streets in the ancient Alfama district, where Islamic towers dating from the Moorish invasion of 711 top the ancient Roman walls surrounding the medieval São Jorge castle. Here, red-tile-roofed buildings fronted with hand-painted, blue-and-white azulejo tiles line the steep streets that wind down to the waterfront. The city’s Christian history presents itself with Romanesque churches, Gothic monasteries and cloistered convents. Mosaic-tiled sidewalks border buildings filled with homes, shops and restaurants in Chiado, and tiny cafes and wine bars stud the narrow cobblestoned streets of Bairro Alto. In the area constructed after the earthquake that destroyed much of the

by Irvina Lew

BEST PLACE TO HAVE

TRADITIONAL PORTUGUESE CUISINE Solar dos Presuntos A family-operated traditional Portuguese restaurant near the swank Avenida de Liberdade, Solar dos Presuntos lures celebrities and ordinary Lisboans alike. Named for the dry-cured ham served upon arrival, the homey restaurant offers generous portions of cozido (a multimeat stew), platters of local seafood and fish, and an impressive selection of Portuguese wines. solardospresuntos.com

GASTRONOMYWITH AWINK Beco Cabaret Gourmet Newly launched by José Avillez, the two- Michelin-starred chef at Belcanto, Beco lives up to the lofty expectations for the lauded chef. Hidden behind a bookcase in a former chapel, Beco offers a choreographed multicourse prix-fixe menu that is full of surprises, including an edible rose, served “with a wink,” a song and a dance. becocabaretgourmet.pt

AN ENORMOUS STEAK Rib Beef &Wine A popular steakhouse, Rib Beef & Wine made its debut in 2016, under a curved brick ceiling within the 18th-century former government building that once housed Prime Minister António de Oliveira Salazar’s office. The restaurant faces the city’s central waterfront plaza, and celebrates 28-day-aged ribeye and chateaubriand and house-made specialties, including red-cabbage slaw with balsamic and honey. pestana.com

A PALATIAL EXPERIENCE Palacio Chiado A stunningly restored 18th-century palace with an extravagant staircase, frescoes and stained glass, Palacio Chiado opened in 2016 as an opulent culinary destination. It comprises two bars that serve the best Portuguese wine and cocktails, a pastry shop and six restaurants with traditional Portuguese dishes and international cuisine, including meat, oysters, bacalhau (cod), sushi and healthy vegetarian fare. palaciochiado.pt

Photos Paulo Carvalho