Elite Traveler January-February 2016

DISCOVER

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Maximilian Büsser founder of MB&F

BRAND PROFILE SPEAKE-MARIN

English watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin studied horology and watchmaking in both the UK and Switzerland, but it was his time spent restoring antique watches in London that completed his watch education. In 1996, he moved to Switzerland, working with companies including Harry Winston and MB&F. Since 2008 Speake-Marin has focused exclusively on his own collection. speake-marin.com

1 Part of the Cabinet des Mystères, this watch invites its wearer to meditate on man’s mortality and appreciate the time he has been given. A detailed skull design is etched onto the silver dial using a precise chemical technique. $24,500 2 The newest version of the Magister Tourbillon has a beautiful enamel dial and features a baguette diamond set bezel. It also has the iconic Piccadilly case, signature blue hands and a clear back so you can see the platinum micro-rotor. $107,200 3 Shenandoah, the first ladies’ collection, is customizable with one or two time zones, a red gold or titanium case and optional gem-set bezel. Rather than shrink a man’s watch, Speake- Marin built this piece from scratch specifically for his female clientele. $22,100

MB&F’s Legacy Machine Perpetual

Breaking with tradition Creative, horological think tank MB&F has concocted a revolutionized perpetual calendar watch, built from the ground up. The Legacy Machine Perpetual is sure to delight watch connoisseurs with its ease of use and good looks. It all began three years ago when MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser (the company name stands for Maximilian Büsser & Friends) invited one of those friends, Stephen McDonnell, an independent Irish watchmaker, to design a new perpetual calendar. This complication hasn’t evolved much over the past 150 years. Instead of adding a perpetual calendar complication to an existing movement, McDonnell started from scratch and designed a movement with an integrated perpetual calendar. Instead of a traditional 31-day calendar, his is a 28-day one, adding additional days as needed instead of skipping days in shorter months. Perpetual calendars are notorious for

Stephen McDonnell independent watchmaker

needing frequent repairs as the movement can easily be damaged if adjusted while the date is changing. In this watch the pushers automatically deactivate when the calendar changes. It can also be adjusted in any direction. The display is mesmerizing: the skeletonized subdials seem to float and the eye is drawn to the suspended 14mm balance wheel, which regulates precision. The Legacy Machine Perpetual is limited to 25 pieces each in an 18-karat red gold and platinum version. It is the fourth watch in the Legacy Machines collection.

Red gold, $145,000, Platinum, $176,000 mbandf.com