Elite Traveler January-February 2016

EXPLORE MEXICO

elite traveler JAN/FEB 2016 126

Longer in… Yucatán, Chichen Itza, Isla Holbox, Mexico City, the Silver Cities and Endémico

THE DETAILS AWEEKEND

Zacatecas is the grandest of the Silver Cities. It was here that the very first seam of silver in the Americas was discovered in 1546. Its labyrinthine mine, El Edén, is open to visitors and it’s worth donning a hard hat to grasp the reality behind the wealth. A stunning hotel here is the Quinta Real, housed in the old bull ring with Andalucian decor throughout. Dine at the Hacienda del Cobre – four miles north of town and probably the best restaurant in the area. For those who have extra days, make an exit via Baja – there are airports at Tijuana and Ensenada – for a sleepover at Endémico, a modern property in the desert near the Guadalupe wine region.

San Miguel is one of Mexico’s richest and most refined small cities, beloved of artists and writers. The ochre and rose-tinted facades are artfully distressed, the main streets are cutely cobbled, and after-dark bars stage jazz and blues concerts. Retail here is top-class too, with oil-rich Texan expats settled in the area and some superb galleries showcasing the work of the best contemporary Mexican artists. Bugambilia is the oldest eatery in town and dishes up classic Mexican standards with lots of mole , corn and chillis. Tio Lucas serves the best steaks and hosts live jazz gigs every night. For cooking classes and private dinners, call the San Miguel Concierge.

Tick off Yucatán and Mexico City as above, then add on a trip north of the capital to tour the so-called Silver Cities of San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato and Dolores Hidalgo. Fly to Del Bajío airport and hire a car or driver – the cities provide a useful looping route for exploring the fertile central valleys and the arid edges of the Chihuahua desert. Dolores Hidalgo was just Dolores until September 16, 1810, when a local priest, Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, shouted “Independencia!” Mexico celebrates the date every year, and a mansion is kept permanently empty to house the president when he arrives every September to re-enact the cry or el grito – an amazing time to be in town.

CASA LECANDA casalecanda.com MÉRIDA AIRPORT asur.com.mx SAN JOSE CHOLUL haciendasanjosecholul.com ONE WEEK BIKO biko.com.mx CASASANDRA casasandra.com HELITOUR toursenhelicoptero.com PUJOL pujol.com.mx QUINTONIL quintonil.com RODAVENTO BOUTIQUE HOTEL LONGER BUGAMBILIA +52 415 152 0127 ENDÉMICO hotelendemico.com HACIENDA DEL COBRE +52 492 923 1364 QUINTA REAL +52 492 922 9104 TIO LUCAS +52 415 152 4996 CONCIERGE SERVICES JOURNEYMEXICO Director general Zachary Rabinor has an army of staff working across offices in Puerto Vallarta, Cancún and Mexico City who will build itineraries to order and whisk you around by private jet or yacht. Our choice vehicle is the Spirit of 2010, an impeccably luxurious 120ft mega-yacht available for charter. journeymexico.com SANMIGUEL CONCIERGE This family-run service, based in the colonial era city of San Miguel de Allende, can arrange just about any tour or activity imaginable in the region – from tango lessons to bilingual drivers to tickets to the next fiesta. sanmiguelconcierge.com hotelrodavento.com TOLUCA AIRPORT vuelatoluca.com WHOTEL wmexicocity.com

Zacatecas: Head to the grandest of Mexico’s Silver Cities and watch the charro compete in charreada tournaments, Mexico’s national sport

Photos: Corbis, Getty Images, 4Corners