Elite Traveler January-February 2016

elite traveler JAN/FEB 2016 119

Try a platter of Ibérico ham at Restaurante Albora

TAPAS WITH A TWIST

It’s no secret visitors to Madrid go for the tapas, not the fine dining. It is loved by locals and tourists in equal measure – it’s hard to beat a perfectly crisp croquette or a well-made tortilla de patatas. However, a new class of tapas in the city is elevating the sharing plates to a higher level, applying different techniques to re-invent the classics. Chef Paco Roncero, who holds two Michelin stars at La Terraza del Casino, has opened tapas bar Estado Puro where diners can enjoy what he calls “21st century tapas”. Dishes such as the foie gras sandwich or deconstructed tortilla de patatas served in a glass sit alongside more traditional tapas dishes on the menu. It should come as no surprise that Roncero worked alongside Ferran Adrià at elBulli for many years. Restaurante Álbora in the Salamanca neighborhood was awarded a Michelin star for its selection of tapas. Head here for the exquisite platter of Ibérico ham. Finally, another chef with Michelin stars, Sergi Arola, has opened his version of the tapas bar, Vi Cool in the Huertas area. Hot and cold raciones of traditional dishes with a twist are served in addition to the coca-pizzas, a type of pizza-style flatbread from the Catalonia region.

Wash down your tapas with a fittingly Spanish lager, Mahou

MASTER CHEFS OF MADRID In a city that loves food, check out these top chefs RAMÓN FREIXA The Catalan chef hits a perfect balance between the avant- garde and traditional in his intimate eponymous restaurant. Expect classic cooking with some surprising elements, such as the Manchego cheese appetizer disguised as a precious stone and baby prawns served in edible paper bags. There’s plenty of smoke and unexpected elements on the menu, but there is method behind every fancy technique applied to the dishes and nothing is done just for show. Among Freixa’s signature dishes is his Tomato Study, a section of the main menu that comes in three parts all centered around tomato and cooked four different ways. ramonfreixamadrid.com

THE TABLE BY…

OSCAR VELASCO A pillar of the Madrid dining scene, Oscar Velasco's Santceloni has been around for 15 years. It has two Michelin stars – the second was awarded in 2005 – and offers a dining experience to match. The basement dining room is bright and spacious and has a humidor for cigar lovers. Choose from the à la carte menu or embark on a journey through one of the tasting menus – the gastronomy menu offers a selection of the restaurant’s signature dishes, such as ravioli with smoked ricotta and Petrossian caviar, while the grand menu sees chef Velasco create a bespoke selection of dishes that take into account the diner’s individual preferences. restaurantesantceloni.com

The Table By is an innovative concept that sees top chefs take over the space in the Urso Hotel on rotation for six weeks apiece. The people behind the project (from pop-up events company Better) traveled across Spain on the hunt for exciting chefs who already have their own restaurants. With each change of chef the entire restaurant space is re-invented with new decor and furniture. The first series of residencies was a huge success and the second kicked off in October 2015, including chefs from Asturias, Galicia, the Balearics, Catalonia, Valencia and Andalucia. The next installment in 2016 will feature Javier Olleros from Culler de Pau in Galicia; Begoña Rodrigo from La Salita in Valencia; Oriol Ivern from Hisop in Barcelona; and Xanty Elias from Acánthum in Huelva. thetableby.es

tapasenestadopuro.com restaurantealbora.com vi-cool.com