Elite Traveler Fall 2024

Clockwise from left Isla Coco hosts Panama’s second-largest colony of frigate birds; Panama is home to a large iguana population; prime whale-watching season is July-October; a shoal of golden trevally

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With temperatures peaking, we make the most of sunbathing and snorkeling, swimming alongside schools of colorful reef fi sh. Though I’m not a natural in the water, even I’m tempted by Islas Secas’ high-tech water sports. After a brie fi ng courtesy of instructor Fabio and with goggles fi rmly on, I start with the Seabob, which is shaped like a little submarine with handles. An underwater jet propels me along and below the surface. Next, I try my hand at the E-foil, an electronic hydrofoil surfboard that swiftly elevates you above the waves thanks to its rotating underwater wing. Sadly, this takes a lot more skill, and after a number of comedic falls, I call it a day. Adrenaline levels are soon reset with a sunset sound bath on Casa Cavada’s terrace. DAYFIVE It is a good omen. Ahead of my early birdwatching tour, Imakemy fi rst sighting when a black hawk livens up my morning co ff ee in the garden. I join Fabio — also an expert nature guide — as we immerse ourselves in Isla Cavada’s forests. The birds (and the iguanas) are out in full force. Within the fi rst half hour, I have spotted a tiny bananaquit with a plump yellow breast drawing nectar fromthe fl owers of a coconut palm; a northern scrub fl ycatcher with a perfectly coifed mohawk; a steely hued blue-gray tanager bouncing along the branches; and a singing yellow mangrove warbler with a reddish-brown head. We follow a trail towards the somewhat suitably named Playa Pelicano beach to attempt to tick the brown pelican o ff the list. I descend towards a beach straight out of Robinson Crusoe , with thick rain forest backing its deserted sands — so deserted, even the pelicans are gone. It’s somewhere you could easily while away the hours in complete solitude. While packing my suitcase, I’m called to the front terrace by shouts of “Whales!” My fi nal few moments at Casa Cavada are spent in the garden overlooking the Paci fi cas I fi x my eyes on three humpback whales swimming near the shore, rising and falling beneath the surface. Casa Cavada from $20,000 per night for a three-night minimum stay; island buyout from $50,000 per night

Over fl owingwith biodiversity, the latest

methods. “We’re already seeing hammerhead sharks in the area and many more snappers, bigger in size,” saysBeny. We arrive at the edge of Isla Coco. A nature reserve known for its bird population, the island hosts Panama’s second-largest colony of frigate birds. I count 20 white-headed juveniles nesting on the cli ff side awaiting lunch. Last year, researchers recorded the highest number of chicks since monitoring began — a positive indicator of ocean health. They share the island with a colony of brown boobies. On a neighboring island, four visiting blue-footed boobies with full bellies are perched on a rock. Beny points out their padded foreheads, which are used for their high-impact, rocket-like dives when theyare fi shing. Just before we head landward, the tip of a large black-and-white tail rushes under the water — a humpback. After a 25-minute wait she reemerges, mightily shooting an air-powered fountain from the blowhole on her head. Within an hour of witnessing this natural wonder, I’m back on shore on a massage table at the spa for a holistic aromatherapy session using Islas Secas’ specially created essential oils. That evening at Casa Cavada, we discussed the day’s sightings over a multi-course feast of steak and jumbo king prawns prepared by Islas Secas’ executive chef

Carlos, who recently arrived after a fi ve-month stint at Barcelona’s three-Michelin-star Disfrutar. DAYFOUR Islas Secas’ rich and diverse fi shing waters include tuna weighing up to 1,000 lbs — making them a huge draw. I’m a rookie but decided to give it a go. Traveling to the archipelago’s westerly islands, we see dolphins and a green sea turtle riding the waves. Despite a mid journey torrential downpour, it’s a success. We all reel in snappers while another in the group catches a striking-looking rooster fi sh — relatively petite at 25lbs and about 3ft long (it was returned to the water). Lunch is barbecued lobster on the sands of Isla Pargo. Chef Carlos joins us for a ceviche cooking class using fi nely diced snapper, fresh lime and mangos. species count includes over 128 plants, 15 reptiles, 114 birds, 750fi shand 12 mammals

for a three-night minimum stay. Contact info@islassecas.com, +1 800 377 8877, islassecas.com

Islas Secas’ range of high-tech water sports equipment includes Seabobs

Photos Islas Secas