Elite Traveler Fall 2024

EXPLORE THE JOURNEY

Left Islas Secas’ private Twin Otter plane Below, from left Casa Cavada’s outdoor lava-stone grotto; sunset from Casa Cavada’s ocean-facing terrace

across what looks like the edge of the world and listen as the rain forest hum gives way to waves. With not another villa in sight, or anywhere near, it is like I have the archipelago to myself. The resort has long been a favorite of high-pro fi le guests in search of a discreet and truly private getaway. DAYTHREE The sun shines for my pre-breakfast outdoor yoga class with instructor Gabriela. Whether it’s daily yoga sessions, expert-led dives or the local cigars neatly arranged in a basket near the main bar accompanied by a glass of champagne, everything is included at this all-inclusive resort. After a Panamanian breakfast at the beachside restaurant, I am greeted by Beny, Islas Secas’ conservation and sustainability manager, and my guide for today’s marine safari around the archipelago. “Will we see whales?” I ask. “Hopefully,” he optimistically replies. Imposing jewel-green waves rock the yacht’s helm after the previous day’s rainfall. Beny explains that the unusual shade is created by the water’s naturally high algae count. A blessing and curse, the diving visibility is perhaps not as clear as some coral reefs (though much clearer between December and March), but the nutrient-packed waters also attract an abundance of marine species. I will not be dipping my head under today — I’m here for two things: birds and whales. Last year, the archipelago and its waters were given protected marine status, banning invasive fi shing

At the heart of this 8,300-sq-ft, indoor-outdoor space is a living room with cathedral-like ceilings mirroring the towering palms outside and walled by retractable glass doors. These open onto a full-length, ocean-facing terrace complete with a Swarovski telescope (for whale sightings). To the left is a state-of the-art chef’s kitchen and a triple-height covered walkway leading to the primary suite with separate lounge and outdoor shower. To the right: three more en-suite bedrooms with private terraces. I’m joined brie fl y on my terrace by a rainbow-hued rufous-tailed hummingbird. I spend the evening in Casa Cavada’s enormous outdoor lava-stone grotto on the lower fl oor.Over expertly shaken tropical elixirs at the poolside bar, I gaze

DAYONE Prior to tomorrow morning’s fl ight to Islas Secas, I check in to the impeccably restored Hotel La Compañía in the center of Panama City’s colorful Old Town of Casco Antiguo. Spanning three historic buildings, the earliest dating from 1688, it is ideal for exploring the district’s terra-cotta-colored streets — followed by a restorative night’s sleep in a four-poster bed. DAYTWO Rain status: sporadic downpours — an improvement on yesterday. I board Islas Secas’ private Twin Otter plane to make the hour-long fl ight. Panoramas of the Panama Canal and The Bridge of the Americas soon surrender to canopy-draped landscapes. Islas Secas appears like a collection of 14 emeralds jutting up from the waves. The only structure visible below is my home for the next three nights: the cli ff side abode of Casa Cavada. Its sprawling roof is curved like a magni fi cent frigate bird, a native of this archipelago. Beside it is an enormous in fi nity pool peering over the Paci fi c. Four-bedroom, six-bathroom Casa Cavada is Islas Secas’ newest and most extraordinary property, and I’m part of a small group to be among its fi rst guests. It joins a collection of just seven existing luxurious casitas remotely interspersed amid the jungle of Isla Cavada — the largest of the 14 islands and where the resort itself is contained. After touching down on the airstrip, a golf cart takes me down the house’s elongated driveway, where I am met by a remarkable structure formed from sustainable eucalyptus pillars that emerge from natural rock foundations. Over expertly shaken tropical elixirs at the poolside bar, I gaze across what looks like the edge of the world and listen as the rain forest hum gives way to waves