Elite Traveler Fall 2022
Left, from top Louisiana Museum of Modern Art; Glypoteket; CopenHill; Nyhaven
te r li at ve eler FALL 2022 133
LIKE A LOCAL
As is usually the case with all of the best destinations, one of Copenhagen’s biggest draws is how much of its identity is de fi ned by its residents, not just the tourist crowds. To really get under the city’s skin, visiting the more residential neighborhoods is essential — and thanks to its tiny size, this is an easy task. Most hotels o ff er bicycles for guest use, so do as locals do and hop on a bike to explore Copenhagen’s best neighborhoods. Not far from the city center is trendy Norrebro , which, much to local’s delight, was recently crowned the coolest place to live in the world. Start with a Danish pastry at Mirabelle (ex-Noma chef Christian Puglisi’s bakery) before heading for a walk around Assistens Cemetery, a peaceful green space that is famously the fi nal resting place of Hans Christian Andersen. From here, make your way to Jægersborggade — a red-bricked street lined with hipster co ff ee shops and independent boutiques. Tuck into an alfresco lunch at Silberbauers Bistro before strolling along the street and stocking up on vintage clothes and handmade jewelry. South of Norrebro is Frederiksberg , a leafy, upmarket area that just oozes sophistication. The main draw here is undoubtedly the green spaces, with Frederiksberg Gardens easily taking the top spot as one of the most beautiful in the city. As it is adjacent to the stately Frederiksberg Palace, which is fl anked by perfectly manicured lines of trees, you’d be forgiven for thinking that you’d been transported to an English country home. Admittedly, Refshaleøen isn’t strictly a residential area, but it would be remiss of us not to mention its rise from industrial shipbuilding district to urban hub. The man-made island is now home to a contemporary art center, a cruising canal spa and some truly great restaurants (including Noma) — it’s also where you’ll fi nd CopenHill. Come summer you’ll fi nd locals diving into the harbor. Yes, the water really is that clean here.
AROUND TOWN
CopenHill Skiing might not be the fi rst activity you think of when you picture a day in Copenhagen, but bear with us. As part of the city’s bid for carbon neutrality, truckloads of waste are diverted from land fi ll and instead sent to CopenHill, a power plant just outside of the city, where it is burned. The heat generated from this process is then captured and transformed into clean energy — enough energy to provide electricity for 30,000 households and central heating for 72,000 households per year. And, on top of this state-of-the-art, green-energy plant is, inexplicably, a summer ski slope with a bar attached. Bonkers, but not to be missed. copenhill.dk Glyptoteket) is a must. Found mere moments away from both Villa Copenhagen and the Nimb Hotel, the museum is an urban oasis with a jaw-dropping, glass-roofed winter garden. O ff ering a timeline through ancient and modern history, Glyptoteket is home to some 10,000 works of art, spanning from ancient Greek sculptures to uncovered Egyptian artifacts. You’ll also fi nd a huge array of Danish classical art, as well as masterpieces by some of the most famous artists in modern history including Manet, Monet, Van Gogh and Renoir. glyptoteket.com Louisiana Museum of Modern Art Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is a little way out of town, but well worth the trip. Occupying an impossibly beautiful waterside location, with endless views that seem to only exist in this portion of northern Europe, Louisiana is home to one of Scandinavia’s largest modern art collections, with a series of rotating installations on display throughout the year. The surrounding grounds are an attraction in their own right, with a striking sculpture garden featuring works by the likes of Henry Moore, Joan Miró and Max Ernst. louisiana.dk Glyptoteket For art a fi cionados, a visit to Ny Carlsberg Glyptoteket (more often referred to as just
Nyhavn A trip to Copenhagen isn’t complete without visiting the iconic Nyhavn — the colorful row of 17th-century buildings that line the boat- fi lled waterfront. Admittedly, it is a tourist trap, but for good reason. Sunset is the time to visit for the money shot, when the cotton candy sky and rainbow-hued buildings re fl ect o ff the water perfectly. Head to one of the canal-front bars for an ice-cold cocktail.
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