Elite Traveler Fall 2022

etr li at ve eler FALL 2022 131

Below Copenhagen is often called ‘the happiest city on Earth’

Kiin Kiin VeVe — the only dedicated vegetarian restaurant in the city — serves up sophisticated fare in a relaxed setting

Danish dining

POPL Like virtually every other restaurant in the world, the incomparable Noma was forced to alter its o ff ering a little amid the continuous lockdowns. Instead of its usual impossibly high-end, foraged set-menu a ff air, the three-Michelin starred restaurant turned its attention to the humble burger and served up

attention to detail and ingredient provenance as the main restaurant, as well as alumni Noma servers, but with a more casual vibe. This is about the closest you’ll come to a Michelin starred burger joint. poplburger.com GERANIUM While the prestigious Michelin Guide has sprinkled Copenhagen with a fl urry of stars, as well as a good handful of Bib Gourmands, just two restaurants hold the highest honor of three stars: Noma and Geranium (and the latter got there fi rst). Don’t be put o ff by the restaurant’s location on the top fl oor of the National Football Stadium — the o ff ering here is about as luxe as it gets, with a stunningly fi nished dining room o ff ering views across the city and polished service. Chef Rasmus Kofoed’s cuisine is hyper-seasonal, with a particular focus on sea-foraging. Expect a series of miniscule yet perfectly formed dishes to descend on your table throughout the evening. geranium.dk Michelin star (which it has held since 2008), Copenhagen’s favorite Thai restaurant Kiin Kiin branched out in 2016 with the opening of VeVe — a dedicated vegetarian spot in the cool neighborhood of Østerbro. To this day it remains the only restaurant of its kind in the city. The food here is undeniably high-end, with a sophisticated six-course revolving tasting menu, but the vibe is more on the relaxed side. In addition to the 30-cover dining room, there’s also a laid-back lounge done up in that oh-so-cool, industrial-meets-botanical style that Copenhagen seems to have perfected. Stop here for a drink before (or after) heading in for dinner. veve.dk KIIN KIIN VEVE Bouncing o ff the success of its

fi rst-rate patties in its gardens to endless queues of Copenhageners. While Noma has now returned to its former formal setup, the popularity of the burger pop-up prevailed, with chef René Redzepi opening a permanent burger joint under the name of Popl. Maintaining the standards of its predecessor, Popl o ff ers the same

Left, from top Popl; Geranium

Photo S-F / Shutterstock.com