Edible Vancouver Island Summer 2022
Animated publication
Celebrating Local Food Stories of Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands
BC seaweed grown in partnership with Indigenous First Nations powered by
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E D I B L E R OAD T R I P Quadra & Cortes by Camilla Sampson I N T H E GARD E N Humble Berries by Sabrina Currie l o c a l l i bat i ons Get a Buzz on by Joanne Sasvari
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f i e l d no t e s Edible News + Notes Worth Sharing I s l and Pan t ry Current Faves + New Finds i n s e a s on from Julia McInnis of Zambri’s E D I B L E P R O F I L E Chef Michael Williams by Karen Elgersma I s l and T r e a s ur e Olives on the Islands by Emily Lycopolus C E L E BRAT I ONS An Outdoors Affair by Camilla Sampson c urr e n t c rav i ng Cool as a Cucumber by Heidi Richter
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I ND I G E NO U S S E A GARD E NS by Natalie Gates
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E AT. DR I NK . L O C A L . G U I D E
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What ’ s i n yo u r f r i d g e ? Calum Worthy
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RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE
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10 Maple Glazed Beets with Feta Crema and Pistachio Crumble
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18 Olive Oil Old-Fashioned Doughnuts
30 Traditional German Cucumber Salad (Gurkensalat)
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E d i b l e G u i d e Melting Points by Terri Potratz
41 Bumbleberry Smoothie Bowl
48 Blackberry Magick Smash Cocktail
ON THIS PAGE: Photo of cucumbers by Heidi Richter
C O N T R I B U T O R S
camilla sampson is based in Campbell River and is a storyteller passionate about community and nature. She loves discovering local stories that bridge the two through the food that we grow, forage and eat. camillasampson.com IG @millysampson emily lycopolus is a recipe developer, cookbook author and level two olive oil sommelier who lives in Victoria. Her family owns an olive grove in central Italy, where her love of olive oil began. oliveoilcritic.com; IG @emilylycopolus heidi richter is a Nanaimo-based food photographer and recipe developer. She fuels her passion for food, gardening and photography with matcha tea and toasted sourdough bread. thesimplegreen.com; IG @the_simple_green joanne sasvari is a Vancouver-based food, drink, travel and lifestyle writer–editor. She is editor of Vitis and The Alchemist magazines and is also co-author of Island Eats , author of the IACP-shortlisted Wickaninnish Cookbook , and has WSET Level 3 and CanadianWine Scholar certification. plumandpepper.ca IG @josasvari
karen elgersma is an award-winning journalist who has a passion for telling the stories of the farmers, chefs, artisans, growers, wine makers and producers of Vancouver Island & the Gulf Islands. karenelgersmamedia.com natalie gates is based in Campbell River and is a freelance blogger and copywriter with a passion for discovering the complex ways food is woven into history and culture. nataliegates.ca; IG @wordsbynatalie sabrina currie loves cooking, growing food and drinking wine. She creates simple, vibrant recipes utilizing fresh produce from her garden and the surrounding farms, forests sharon lam is a passionate eater and location illustrator. Since losing her mom to cancer, she focuses on capturing all of her family’s favourite local spots. artbysharonlam.com; IG @artbysharonlam terri potratz is a writer and editor who loves living on beautiful Salt Spring Island. You can find her work at terripotratz.com “In the summer, the days were long, stretching into each other. Out of school, everything was on pause and yet happening at the same time, this collection of weeks when anything can happen.” ~ Sarah Dessen and ocean. Recipes at sabrinacurrie.com ; shop at westcoastkitchengarden.com
ON THIS PAGE: Photo of beets by Janis Jean
I have the most delicious childhood memories of summer. My grandma was a big gardener—her entire backyard was converted into a vegetable garden. She and I would walk barefoot in the warm soil and pick carrots, peas, lettuce and beans. I would often eat a few carrots before she had a chance to rinse them; I loved how those sweet, warm carrots tasted with a little fresh dirt still on the skin. Sitting on the porch with her on a hot summer prairie night devouring fresh veggies was pure joy.
PUBLISHER + EDITOR IN CHIEF Karen Elgersma
ART DIRECTOR Danika McDowell EDITOR Danielle Steiner-Janzen
COPY EDITOR Trish Weatherall SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Jenny Leung PHOTOGRAPHERS Danika McDowell DL Acken Elli Hart Heidi Richter Janis Jean
Another magical childhood memory was picking Saskatoons with my brothers. We ate more berries than we kept, but we got enough in the bucket for my mom to make a pie—and what a pie it was. Check out Danielle Steiner’s Saskatoon berry article on our website and our “berry” delicious story by Sabrina Currie on page 40. What would summer be without a road trip? Camilla Sampson’s road trip to Quadra and Cortes is lled with many tasty ideas on how to enjoy the islands in the summer. Or, discover Canada’s only olive oil producer on Salt Spring Island on page 16, where Emily Lycopolus dives into all things olives and olive oil. And while you’re out enjoying our Island summer, take a moment to appreciate the bees and the important role they play in our food system— and in some sweet honey-based spirits, which Joanne Sasvari gives us a look into on page 44. Nothing says summer like a backyard barbeque. Chef Michael Williams, the owner of Urban Forage, shares the secret to his new barbecue sauce with Spinnakers root beer; discover why he left his TV show to start his own culinary food line and café on page 13. Ice cream runs, picnics, farmers’ markets, roadside ower stands, long lingering dinners on a patio, and time on the beach to discover shells, sea glass and sea stars are all part of the joys of summer on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. We hope this season brings new memo ries and provokes old ones—reminding everyone of simpler times, when “raiding a garden” was considered naughty, running through a freezing cold sprinkler was fun and making a whole ve dollars selling lemonade at the end of your driveway was a thrill. Karen Elgersma
Michael Levy AD DESIGN Leanne Von Hollen ADVERTISING Dawn Postniko
Inga Liimatta Nikki Beach Peggie Terry ediblevancouverisland.com/advertise CONTACT US 140-4392 West Saanich Road Victoria, BC, V8Z 3E9 info@ediblevancouverisland.com TO SUBSCRIBE Visit us online at ediblevancouverisland.com Edible Vancouver Island is published four times a year. Subscription rate is $35 CAD annually. LETTERS We welcome your feedback. To write to the editor, use the address above or, for the quickest response, email: editor@ediblevancouverisland.com
Edible Vancouver Island magazine is published ve times per year by Karen Elgersma Media INC. 140-4392 West Saanich Road, Victoria, BC V8Z 3E9
No part of these publications may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. Every e ort is made to avoid errors and omissions. If you notice an error, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. © 2022. All rights reserved.
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We Deliver! Subscribe at ediblevancouverisland.com to have copies delivered right to your door. Check out our website and follow us on social media @EdibleVanIsle for up-to-date events, recipes and news from the food and drink community of Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands and the surrounding areas.
On the cover: Olives on the Islands—read the story on pg 16. Photo by Michael Levy.
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edible news + notes worth sharing eld notes >> You’ll also nd the recently opened Tonolli’s Deli in Sidney, which is a European bakery that also o ers a small breakfast and lunch menu.
NEW EATS >> Ono Poké is a new poké joint in Victoria o ering authentic Hawaiian-style poké bowls. ese beautiful dishes feature traditional Hawaiian avours using fresh local products.
>> ere’s a new bakery lled with incredible baked delights in Comox called e Flying Apron —and rumour has it they might just have some of the best croissants around. HAVE A BEER
>> Also in Victoria, Burger Crush has expanded from their food truck location on Cook Street to include a location on Fort Street, o ering the same legendary burgers, fries and drinks as the food truck.
>> …at Canada’s oldest beer festival. e Great Canadian Beer Festival in Victoria will be held September 9th and 10th, featuring 90 Canadian craft breweries from every region of the country. Soon after, on September 25th, get your ll of ethically sourced meat alongside your brew at Victoria’s Brewery and the Beast Festival. >> If you can’t wait until then, the Cowichan Craft Beer and Food Festival will take place on August 13th, showcas ing Vancouver Island and B.C. beer paired with artisan food.
>> And when you nd yourself peckish in Port Alberni, stop by the Riverbend Cafe & General Store for locally made snacks, pastries and more, as well as art and products from Island makers. BAKED TREATS >> In Sidney, bakery/cafe Sweeties by the Sea is a new addition to the foodie landscape and their tasty baked goods are a perfect complement to their adorable location.
We update our Edible News + Notes online monthly. Check ediblevancouverisland.com and fol low @EdibleVanIsle on social media
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current faves + new nds island pantry
32 LAKES COFFEE ROASTERS Powell River’s award winning co ee roaster is now available at select grocers on Vancouver Island, o ering high quality roasts for every co ee lover. 32 Lakes is Green, Carbon Neutral and Surfrider certi ed by VIGBC in Victoria, B.C. They also boast Rainforest Alliance certi cation and a give-back program that donates to local communities. 32lakes.com | @32lakesco eeroasters FOREST FOR DINNER Small-batch, wild foraged foods gathered from the wilderness of Vancouver Island. From wild berries, jams and jellies, to marinated fungi, Forest for Dinner is your source for handpicking local foraged berries, fungi and botanicals. They transform those wild raw ingredients into unique preserves that are a must try if you are in for something truly special and exceptional. Available online at forestfordinner.ca or in selected retailers across Vancouver Island.
S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T
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KITH + KIN CHARCUTERIE, a sisters-owned catering business, o ers high-end and creative charcuterie boxes, boards and grazing tables, available for both local delivery or pick-up. Each box, board or table is thoughtfully curated using as many local ingredients as possible and re ects Kith + Kin’s cultural and familial passion for food. kithkincharcuterie.com @kithkincharcuterie NATURAL PASTURES This authentic Mozzarella di Bufala from Natural Pastures Cheese Company is made with 100% water bu alo milk. It’s pure white and rm on the outside, moist and creamy on the inside. It delivers a simple, yet profound taste that unfolds in layers of texture and avours. Perfect in a Caprese salad with tomatoes and basil. NaturalPastures.com | @NaturalPasturesCheese CIRCLE CANNING is Victoria’s beloved artisan preserver. Founded by noted chef Paige Robinson, Circle Canning uses locally grown produce to create a beguiling array of sauces, relishes, pickles, salsas, jams and chutneys. Many of these recipes hail from Paige’s days as owner of Camille’s Restaurant. Find them now at the Victoria Public Market and online at shop.chocolateproject.ca/collections/circle-canning
S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T
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Your Indigenous-led kelp and seafood company located in the heart of Tofino, BC www.naasfoods.com | (250) 266-8556 | 630a Campbell Street, Tofino BC
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I N S E A S O N R E C I P E
RECIPES CHEF JULIA MCINNIS OF ZAMBRI ’S PHOTOS JANIS JEAN
I get very excited about spring, especially on Vancouver Island, as it is the beginning of the season for the wide variety of produce grown on the Island—my favourite of which is the beet. While available year-round, I find that new baby beets in spring are sweeter and juicier. From the taste to the colour to the texture, beets are extremely versatile and can shine in any recipe from a starter to dessert—and they look good doing it! I like to serve beets as an antipasti, or as a contorni where they can be the star. This plate pairs the beets with something sweet and something salty and adds a light pickle to complement the earthy qualities of a beet. This dish can be served warm or prepared ahead of time and served room temperature. (But wait until just before serving to add the crumble to keep it from becoming soggy.)
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M A P L E G L A Z E D B E E T S W I T H F E T A C R E M A A N D P I S T A C H I O C R U M B L E
Step 1. Batch re c ipe for be e ts
Step 3. Candi ed pistachio crumbl e
Rinse beets well to remove any dirt. Place beets in cold water, then add salt and vinegar. Place on high heat and bring to a boil. Then reduce to medium heat and simmer beets until they can be pierced with a knife with minimal resistance (approximately 1½ hrs, depending on the size of the beets). Note: you may need to top up the water as the beets cook to keep the beets submerged. Remove from heat and allow the beets to cool in the liquid. Once they are cool enough to handle, wear gloves and gently rub beets with your hands to remove the peels. Store the beets in their cooking liquid. 1 lb beets 1 Tbsp salt ⅓ cup vinegar (red wine vinegar is best, but white vinegar or white wine vinegar also works) water to cover beets I N G R E D I E N T S M E T H O D
1 cup chopped pistachios 1 Tbsp butter 1½ Tbsp sugar ½ Tbsp corn syrup I N G R E D I E N T S
M E T H O D
Preheat oven to 375°F. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt butter, sugar and corn syrup together on low heat. Cook together until mixture bubbles. Incorporate pistachios and mix together well. Cook on low heat, mixing continuously for 3 minutes. Spread mixture as thin as possible on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Place in oven and bake for 7–10 minutes, until light gold in colour. Allow to cool completely, then use your hands to break it apart into shards. Place shards in a thick plastic bag and smash with a rolling pin to make small crumbs. (You can also accom plish this in a food processor if available—it’s not quite as fun though!)
2 cups cubed or wedged beets ⅓ cup cooking liquid from the beets 1½ Tbsp maple syrup 1 Tbsp butter ⅔ cup feta crema 2 Tbsp candied pistachio crumble 2–3 leaves basil for garnish I N G R E D I E N T S Step 4. To create t he f inal dish
Step 2 . F e ta crema
1 tub feta (500g) 1 cup heavy cream I N G R E D I E N T S
M E T H O D
Crumble feta by hand. Place in blender, or, if using hand blender, place in a long narrow receptacle. Blend until smooth. Adjust seasoning to taste.
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p r o c e d u r e
Cut beets into desired shape, like a 1-inch cube or larger, or a wedge depending on the size of the beet. Place beets and cooking liquid in a small sauté pan. On high heat, bring to a boil and reduce liquid by ⅔. Add maple syrup and continue to reduce until only enough liquid to coat the beets remains. Off the heat, add the butter and mix until it has completely melted in. Adjust seasoning to taste. While the beets are cooking, spread the feta crema on the bottom of a dish of your choosing. Create a crater in the center to place the beets into. Place warm beets into the feta crema crater. Garnish with pistachio crumble and basil leaves. Serve warm or room temperature.
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Unwind in the comforts of Sidney's coastal charm
Whether you’re a returning visitor, resident, or a first-timer to the area, there is always something new to experience in Sidney. Reconnect with nature, family, friends and discover why locals have fallen in love with this paradise. Visit us online and take a look at a sample itinerary to see what awaits your next visit to Sidney by the Sea.
Situated at the shore of the Salish Sea, Sidney’s historic and vibrant downtown district is the heart of the Saanich Peninsula. Sidney is wonderfully diverse, teeming with outstanding options for food, culture, arts, and adventure. Scenic trails and seascapes afford endless possibilities for fun and exploration - truly something for everyone!
EXPLORESIDNEY.CA @EXPLORESIDNEY
© Sidney Business Improvement Area Society
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E D I B L E P R O F I L E
Chef M chael W ll ams of Urban Forage I met Chef Michael Williams in 2013 at the Our Place dining room in Victoria on a cold winter’s day. It was the lunch time rush, and he was volunteering as chef for the day; when we met, he was madly cooking while giving the team of volunteers instructions. Our Place works with Victoria’s most vulnerable citizens, and one of their core values is to give nourishment, hope and belonging to all—and their daily meals personify their core value of unconditional love. Chef Williams had his own TV show, and I was on assignment to interview this celebrity who volunteered at the busiest kitchen in town. He was humble and kind, and as dedicated to using local, healthy ingredients to create a delicious meal for the hundreds who were lined up that day, as he was on his show. Why did you decide to have a brick and mortar storefront at The Atrium? After a few challenges renting a commercial kitchen, I decided to be very intentional about finding a space that would fit all my needs. I wrote out a detailed 40-point manifesto (which I still have) of what my new production kitchen would look like, right down to including a beautiful outdoor break space with trees. When I found the kitchen that checked almost every single box on my list, I was surprised to see that it also had an extra box—a café attached to it. I never wanted to own a restaurant, but after negotiating with the best landlords, Jennifer Austin and I decided to add “professional partnership” to our romantic partnership, and we took over the café in the stunning courtyard of The Atrium in downtown Victoria. WORDS KAREN ELGERSMA PHOTOS ELLI HART
When Michael invited me to see his new venture, Urban Forage, I was excited to discover what he was up to now—because I knew he would be doing something epic. Urban Forage started as a catering business just before the pandemic hit. How did this impact your business? The state of the world changed everything for my business. Urban Forage launched as a catering company after dedicating 2019 to planning, marketing and networking. Momentum was building so well in 2020, and after having already been self-employed for over 15 years, I was on pace for a record year. Then everything disappeared overnight with the initial lockdown in March 2020. All my contracts were canceled, and my entire income went to zero. I continued to do small catered events, and then I launched my first artisan retail product: an oat-based energy bar called Chef Mike’s Power Bites, which Country Grocer and other local stores carried. Then we re-launched Urban Forage with a new business model: we created a line of freshly frozen chef-made meals available for home delivery. My vision was to offer the most comprehensive prepared meal service in the world—or at least, in Victoria. How did you pivot?
Tell us about the culinary experience people will have when they come to Urban Forage at The Atrium. The Atrium is a spectacular space, and our warm and relaxing environment offers a fantastic menu of noodle bowls, sandwiches, wraps, daily soup, salads, sausage rolls, vegan rolls and snacks, as well as a whole line of delicious desserts and treats. We make it all from scratch and source locally as much as we possibly can. Our creations are unique, healthy and delicious. You have a variety of Urban Forage branded products, from kimchi to your award-winning mac & cheese. What inspired you to create these? This was the whole idea, and the only justification that led to Jennifer and I deciding to do what I said I would never do—open a café. Having realized how challenging it was to get the word out for the online delivery model with Urban Forage, the idea of having a brick and mortar location for a specialty market as well as a café was very exciting. While we offer our fantastic menu and love the café aspect of our business, it has always been about the specialty market. We currently have over 80 products comprising the best recipes of my career as well as several from Dan Brown, a career chef himself and my right-hand man in the kitchen.
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“My vision was to offer the most comprehensive prepared meal service in the world—or at least, in Victoria.”
What’s next?
We are continuing to cater, and we hope to do more of this in the future, as well as grow our home delivery business. We just signed up with Oakland’s night market for the entire summer, and we are looking forward to reaching a whole new demographic. We hope to be serving the senior community in a growing way, and finally, having moved on from being the host of “Cookin’ on the Coast,” we are really excited about creating some kind of Urban Forage online cooking content.
Discover the secret of the ingredients in Michael’s BBQ sauce.
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I S L A N D T R E A S U R E
WORDS EMILY LYCOPOLUS PHOTOS MICHAEL LEVY Olives on the Islands
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Growing olives and making olive oil is a long-term labour of love
W e already know everything loves to grow in this archipelago of islands, from citrus to blackber ries and everything in between—although one thing we might not expect to find is olives. An anchor in the Mediterranean climates across the globe, olives live in a delicate balance. Hearty and steadfast even in the most challenging conditions in their natural habitat, olives struggle when planted outside their comfort zone. Canada’s bitter cold winters make establishing olive trees an incredible challenge. Yet against all odds, here among the islands are several small olive groves—as well as Canada’s only olive oil producer, which is set on a sunny, south facing hillside on Salt Spring Island: The Olive Farm. Olive oil is a labour of love to create. Even though olive trees are hearty and will hap pily produce olives consistently for over 750 years, olives themselves are very fragile. It takes 100 days to grow an olive from blos som to maturity, and the lipids are the last component of the fruit to develop. The oil is held in little capsules inside the olive flesh, so to extract it effectively, those capsules must be broken, and the oil coaxed out. The f lavour, antioxidants, micronutrients and vitamins found in olive oil that make it so healthy are found in the flesh and pit of the olive. It’s through the extraction process these properties must be infused into the ol ives oil, creating the healthy, delicious, stable juice we know and love. As olives are the most fragile between the moment it leaves the tree and is transformed into juice, decreasing the time between tree and bottle is crucial. It’s ideal if the entire harvesting process takes less than six hours—which is an immense challenge in volving handing-picking olives with a rake, gathering them up and taking them to the mill. But harvest is a joyous time; it’s a time
of community pulling together, as it takes everyone’s love, care and dedication to this honoured fruit to get the olives to the mill. At The Olive Farm, George and Sheri Braun do exactly that—pull together an incredible community at harvest to pick and gather from their trees, creating a field blend oil that tastes just like the island. Bright and vibrant, the oil is an incredible green in both colour and flavour: artichoke and green al mond are very present with hints of apple, and an almost tart tannic and salty note sits on your palate and turns into a beautiful, lingering, black-and-white-pepper finish. It’s a stunning example of what the island tastes like, and the terroir poured into a bottle. The trees onThe Olive Farm, most of Tuscan heritage, Frantoio, Leccino and Maurino, are approaching 10 years old, so will now be producing more consistently and plentifully, as it takes a long time for olives trees to es tablish themselves. In our climate, that is no exception; with our cool wet winters and long cool springs, the trees blossom in late June and it’s often well into November by the time the olives are mature and ready for picking—and as George emphasized to me, there is little ripening happening in October and November here. If the warm weather comes early allowing a long blossom, then the olives will soak up all the warm summer sun they need to develop and ripen for a bumper harvest in the fall. So, what to do with the delicious fresh extra virgin olive oil? It’s tradition in the Mediter ranean for trays of sweets and cakes made with the product to be passed around during the olive harvest, as harvesters and millers work late into the night (if not all night) to ensure the olives are handled with care and are sent quickly into the mill. The days are long and filled with joy—the last sprint of the season before the trees and their caretak ers can take a deep breath and rest.
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RECIPE EMILY LYCOPOLUS PHOTO DL ACKEN
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These old-fashioned style olive oil doughnuts are assembled like a biscuit dough, with no yeast or rising time needed— just a chill in the fridge before they hop in the fryer. Hearty and sustaining while still light and fluffy, they are perfect for Saturday breakfast, or boxed up and enjoyed during the harvest. Makes 1 dozen doughnuts.
zest of 1 lemon 1 tsp orange zest ⅓ cup granulated sugar ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 egg 2½ cups all-purpose our, plus more for dusting ¼ cup cornstarch 2 tsp baking powder ¾ cup yogurt olive oil for frying
I N G R E D I E N T S f o r d o u g h n u t s
M E T H O D
In a medium-sized mixing bowl, add the zests and sugar. Mix together with your fingers to release the oils in the zest; the sugar will feel like coarse, wet sand. Whisk in the olive oil and egg to form a glossy, wet texture. Sift your flour onto a piece of parchment paper. Measure 2½ cups back into the sifter and add the cornstarch and baking powder as well. Sift the dry ingredients directly over the wet ingredients in the bowl, and fold together with a spatula. Fold in the yogurt and continue to mix, forming a soft, sticky dough—it will feel like a wet scone dough or a very thick cake batter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, pressing it directly on the surface of the dough, and let rest in the fridge for at least one hour (although you can also let it chill overnight). Generously dust a piece of parchment paper with flour. Using a spatula, scrape the chilled dough onto the floured surface. Dust the top generously with flour and top with a second piece of parchment paper. Roll the dough into a disc about ¾-inch thick. Remove the top parchment paper to cut out the doughnuts. Use a 3-inch round cookie cutter and a 1-inch cookie cutter for the center. In a large heavy-bottom pot or Dutch oven, over medium–high heat, heat 2 inches of oil to 350°F using a thermometer to monitor the temperature of the oil. Carefully slip 3 to 4 doughnuts into the oil, one at a time so as to not overcrowd. Let them set for 30 seconds without touching them, then bump them so they move around the oil a bit, and flip the doughnuts over around 1 minute, when the underside is deeply golden. Cook for an additional 30–45 seconds and transfer to a wire rack to cool. Repeat with remaining doughnuts and doughnut holes. To make the glaze, whisk together the icing sugar, olive oil and lemon juice to form a thick glaze. Add the milk, if needed, to ensure the glaze is pourable, but still quite thick, as it needs to stick to the doughnuts and not run away! Press each doughnut deeply into the glaze and carefully lift and place back on the wire rack and allow at least 10 minutes for the glaze to set—although if you can’t wait that long, it’s entirely understandable, just be prepared for extra sticky fingers!
1 cup icing sugar 1 Tbsp olive oil 1 Tbsp lemon juice 1–2 tsp milk
I N G R E D I E N T S f o r G L A Z E
Note: Doughnuts will store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days, although they are best enjoyed the day they are made.
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www.greatgreens.ca OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK 8:30AM-7:30PM 4485 TRANS CANADA HWY, COWICHAN BAY ‘Elevating the level of health in our community by providing food that is straight from the farm to your fork’ * Summer Hours 8:30AM-8:30PM
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C E L E B R A T I O N S
An Outdoors Affair There are few things more quintessential of summer than a picnic. From sandy beaches to mountain tops, grassy fields to backyards, they are a portable gathering place that inches us closer to nature and can encompass an impressive spread. WORDS CAMILLA SAMPSON
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I nitially, picnics were actually an indoor affair created by the French—much like a potluck in which guests would bring a contribution. Yet, over time, they moved into fresh air, quickly becoming enshrined in book pages by the likes of Jane Austen. More recently, they have become a popular (and photo worthy) engagement event—an elevated spread with a magical view, a bottle of something bubbly and often loved ones hiding in wait to join the happy couple at the perfect moment. In 2012, the infamous Dîner en Blanc (an elegant “white pic nic”) was formed in Paris. Now taking place in 80 cities around the world, including Vancouver and Victoria, they are a secretive event where thousands of guests wear white to attend a gourmet pop-up dining experience in a public space, with the location announced at the last minute—an astounding visual experience for passersby. Yet most picnics have few obstacles to access. They are, in their simplest, joyful form, an outing or occasion that involves taking a packed meal to be eaten outdoors, inclusive of all who wish to create a moment to take in a view, to pause on a trail, to be close to water with a side of nourishing food. Across our islands there are undoubtedly innumerable locations to have such a moment. Leaning into the meadowy, countryside settings of the picnics encapsulated in novels, the likes of provin cial parks East Sooke Regional Park, Ruckle Provincial Park on Salt Spring Island, Helliwell Provincial Park on Hornby Island, Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park in Parksville and Goose Spit Park in Comox are just a few that provide tall grasses and open field-like spaces. Other locations come about from businesses offering their own picnic experiences, such as Bilston Creek Farm. Their fire pits are replaced by picnics in the orchard come summer—a wonderful family gathering place. Think carefully curated cheese boxes, a Ploughman’s Lunch, an Afternoon Tea package, and plenty of options to add drinks (their Lavender Simple Syrup in a cold
Opposite page: a uniquely curated picnic at Bilston Creek Farm.
This page, clockwise from upper left: a picnic complemented by wine at 40 Knots Winery (photo by Ali Roddam); a perfect picnic box for two from The Farmer’s Daughter (photo by Hattie Root Photography); a beautiful outdoor picnic created by Jam & Co. (photo by Emily Yew Photography).
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drink is a real treat). For a girls’ day out, head to 40 Knots Win ery in the Comox Valley; take your choice of their recommended picnic goodies onto the lawn overlooking their 20-acre vineyard with a cold glass of the Pinot Gris. Across the Island, curated boxes are an option to pick-up and relocate to wherever you wish. Fresh, local produce with your favourite view is sure to impress visitors and loved ones. Out west, Picnic Charcuterie is a sure choice in Tofino. If you’re gath ering around the mid-island, it’s Jam & Co., who also include a couple of other B.C.-made products. In the south, The Farmer’s Daughter Picnic Box for two is a quick fix, Hungry Humming bird delivers to Victoria and surrounding communities and The Local Picnic offers a variety of delightful picnic options to fill your heart and satiate your appetite. Building your own picnic is also a tempting option with so many Island-based goodies on offer. A small handful of locations for suggested breads and buns include Tru Grain, Working Culture and Portofino European Bakery. For cheese, enjoy Natural Pas tures brie, Little Qualicum Cheeseworks or artisan goat cheese from Salt Spring Island Cheese. Opt for local butchers and farm ers’ markets to discover cured meats from the Comox Valley, Cowichan Valley and Duncan areas. Stands across the Island in summer are also a go-to for fresh veggies and fruits, while there’s likely going to be a tub of Holy Homous from Victoria, some organic wine and a Hornby Island Pate in the cool box too.
Picnics are…inclusive of all who wish to create a moment to take in a view, to pause on a trail, to be close to water with a side of nourishing food.
This page, clockwise from right: an incredible spread by Jam & Co.; an intimate picnic selection by Picnic Charcuterie (photo by Savanna Lynn Photography); a picnic box from Bilston Creek Farm.
22 SUMMER 2022 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND
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ediblevancouverisland.com 23
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24 SUMMER 2022 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND
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ediblevancouverisland.com 25
S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T
Patio Season in Parksville Qualicum Beach Summer on Vancouver Island could be summed up with many words, but perhaps the most appt phrase is “patio season”! Enjoy the company of friends while basking in the sunshine, enjoying the fresh coastal breeze and of course, indulging in delicious local food and drinks. With an abundance of restaurant patios, Parksville QualicumBeach is the perfect place to put on your summer bucket list for a weekend away.
Start your weekend off right with coffee on Saturday morning from French Press Coffee Roasters. Open at 8:00am, their location on Primrose Street is in the heart of downtown Qualicum Beach, which makes it the perfect location from which to start your day. Choose between one of their award winning coffee options and a delicious baked good and take a seat on the patio as you watch the rest of the town slowly wake up and begin their weekend adventures. Fueled by caffeine, take the opportunity while you’re downtown to do some shopping. Before you know it, your stomach will be grumbling for lunch, and just a five-minute drive from French Press Coffee Roasters you’ll find a dreamy patio at Shore Restaurant. True to the name, it’s located right on the shore, overlooking a vast expanse of beach and ocean. During the particularly warm summer days, the ocean breeze will be a welcome relief as you enjoy their popular fish and chips and cool off with a crushed fruit smoothie. For dinner, don’t pass up the opportunity to dine on the patio at Qualicum Beach Café. A sister restaurant to the popular Water St. Café in Vancouver, Qualicum Beach Café offers a west coast-inspired menu with a sprinkle of Italian influence. Their lovely patio will make you want to sit back and stay awhile as you enjoy memorable conversations over a delicious meal. The view is also well worth lingering over as you take in the evening sun glistening over the ocean. Finish your day by heading back into the downtown area where you began your day and find Fern & Cedar Brewing Company to indulge in a small-batch, locally crafted beer. While the inside of their location is beautiful (it features a wall filled with red-cedar firewood and a menu bordered by lush greenery), it’s their open patio in the summer that is the perfect place to wind down your busy day. They are open to 11:00pm on Saturdays, so kick back and enjoy a brew while the sun sets and the stars rise above. Then, after a good night’s sleep and a lazy Sunday morning, hop in your car and make the scenic drive to the seasonal “calfe” at Little Qualicum Cheeseworks in Parksville. Enjoy a
hot, fresh latte complemented by a tasty baked treat while you study their self-guided tour map. When you’re ready to leave your picnic table behind, explore the grounds and take the opportunity to learn about their milking process, say hello to the goats and sheep, and, of course, take a peek into the cheese plant! For lunch, drive a little further south to the Fairwinds Marina in Nanoose Bay, where you’ll find Seascape Dining. You won’t be able to tear your eyes away from the view their patio affords over the picture-perfect marina, so order an appetizer and dessert to extend your visit. They also offer many plant-based and gluten-friendly options on their menu, so it’s a place where everyone can find a new favourite meal. Once you’ve managed to tear yourself away from the sunshine warmedpatioof SeascapeDining, enjoy anafternoonexploring Parksville’s shops and beaches before making your way to The Bayside Oceanfront Resort for dinner. This resort offers delightful patio dining with an expansive ocean and mountain view, making it the perfect background for gathering with friends or an intimate dinner for two. Enjoy your dinner around one of their outdoor fire pits for an even more unique evening experience. Finally, finish off your weekend of patio discoveries by driving just ten minutes away to the Black Goose Inn. This unique restaurant is located inside an old home built in 1921, with fireplacesineveryroomtostaycozyduringthewinter.Butduring the summer, their patio beckons, surrounded by lush trees that open up to the evening sky and providing a perfectly framed view of the ocean beyond. Complement your patio experience with a British dessert or ale as you consider all the other patio options you’ll return to visit in Parksville Qualicum Beach.
These are just a few of the multitude of beautiful patio options available during the summer in Parksville Qualicum Beach. For a more expansive list, visit www.visitparksvillequalicumbeach.com/blog/top patios-parksville-qualicum-beach
26 SUMMER 2022 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND
Top: Black Goose Inn; Left: Bayside Oceanfront Resort Right: Qualicum Beach Cafe (photo by John Lau)
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ParksvilleQualicumBeach.com
ediblevancouverisland.com 27
C U R R E N T C R A V I N G
Cool as a Cucumber THE CUSTOMARY SUMMER INGREDIENT WORDS, PHOTOS + RECIPE HEIDI RICHTER
28 SUMMER 2022 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND
M any gardeners nd themselves swimming in zucchini this time of year, but in my case, it’s always cucumbers. Each year, I resolve to grow only one plant, reasoning it could hardly produce the colossi of previous summers—I am continually proven wrong! Naturally, one family can only con sume so much of this cucumiform before the rest are given to friends and neighbours (whether they like it or not!). Cucumbers (Cucumis Sativus) are fruiting vine plants in the cucurbitaceae or gourd family which have been cultivated for over 3000 years. Original cultivars were grown in South Asia and India before making their way across the globe and onto unsuspecting neighbours’ doorsteps. ese vigorous growers are commonly treated as vegetables in the culinary world; however, cucumbers are technically non-sweet fruits like squash and toma toes. With charming names like Corinto, Piccolino, Poniente and bene cial nutrients like ber, vitamin K and antioxidants, there is a lot to love about this plentiful summer food. Presently, there are over 130 cucumber varieties grown and con sumed worldwide, all of which can be lumped into one of three categories: slicing, seedless or pickling. Slicing (or slicers) are typically grown for raw consumption, but their skin and seeds are usually removed. e typical slicer, with its thick dark skin and large seeds, di ers from the thinner-skinned seedless (or burpless) cucumber, which has a sweeter taste and smaller palatable seeds. Seedless varieties are often grown in hothouses and tend to be shrink-wrapped to protect their delicate skin on the way to the produce shelf. Pickling cucumbers speak for themselves; these varieties were bred speci cally for their thin yet rm skins and small uniform size, which makes them ideal for submerging in brine. e most popular variety consumed in North America is the seedless English, Persian or European cucumber, and with good reason: their mellow avour and attractive thin skin makes these cucumbers pleasant to eat and easy to use in recipes (no peeling or seeding necessary). Taste and texture aside, one could also rea son these are the most popular because they are the most widely available, and this is certainly true. However, a visit to a local market or grower could open your eyes to a plethora of delicious and eye-catching choices like Striped Armenians, Lemon Cukes or Crystal Apple cucumbers—these and other unique varieties grow in popularity every year. With a high water content and mild taste, cucumbers are quite a versatile food. ey can take on any number of avours depend ing on how they are prepared and with which ingredients they mingle. While most consider cucumbers destined for veggie plat ters, sandwiches or salads, they can actually be used in a variety of ways—cold soups, salsas, juices, pickles, water infusions and beauty applications, or in classics like Greek salad, tzatziki or raita. Moreover, cooked cucumbers, while often overlooked in North America, have long been consumed in Asian cuisine as side dishes or in stir-fries where they add crisp texture and delicate avour to a dish. Nevertheless, as versatile as cucumbers can be, recipes that capture their cool and refreshing qualities are my preference this time of year. German cucumber salad, or gurkensalat, is a beloved dish from my childhood and is extraordinarily simple to prepare. Made of paper-thin cucumber slices and a creamy, tangy sauce, gurkensalat can be served with a number of main dishes (roasted poultry, grilled meat, salmon etc.) or enjoyed on its own straight from the fridge. is modest recipe always reminds me of simpler times when my biggest worry was whether there was enough gurkensalat left over for the next day.
ediblevancouverisland.com 29
C U R R E N T C R A V I N G R E C I P E
30 SUMMER 2022 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND
T R A D I T I O N A L G E R M A N C U C U M B E R S A L A D G U R K E N S A L A T
Thinly sliced cucumbers are tossed in a creamy and tangy dressing with fresh herbs and shallots. Advanced preparation is recommended to allow ample chilling time and mingling of flavours. Peeling the cucumbers is optional; however, if using slicer cucumbers, it’s best to remove the skin and seeds. This recipe should be served cold and will last covered up to 3 days in the fridge.
Serves: 6–8 Prep time: 10 minutes Chilling time: 1 hour
SEARED SCALLOPS WITH GARLIC & ASPARAGUS PURÉE
2 large English cucumbers, washed and peeled (optional) ½ tsp sea salt ⅓ cup sour cream or full-fat plain yogurt
I N G R E D I E N T S
• INGREDIENTS •
12 Large Scallops 2 Tbsp Olive Oil ½ Tsp Diamond Kosher Salt 2 cups fresh or frozen Asparagus - chopped ¼ cup White Wine ½ cup Heavy Cream 4 cloves Garlic - sliced 2 Tbsp Fresh Parsley - chopped Cracked Black Pepper • DIRECTIONS •
2 Tbsp nely diced shallot 2 Tbsp white wine vinegar 2 tsp Dijon mustard 1 Tbsp olive oil 1 tsp sugar 3 Tbsp fresh dill, chopped
Sprinkle the scallops with kosher salt, and then set them aside while you make the asparagus purée. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and toss in the garlic and asparagus. Cook until tender, about 2 min. Strain the asparagus and garlic, and then immediately submerge them into ice water, to keep the colour dark green and to halt the cooking process. Blend together the white wine, heavy cream, parsley and cooked asparagus and garlic using a high setting on your blender until the mixture is smooth. Heat a large skillet to high - skillet is ready when a drop of water sizzles and spits when added to the pan. Add olive oil to the hot skillet, and then gently place each Scallop into the pan. Allow scallops to sear for about 2 min, do not move it around, it will be easier to remove once it has developed it’s golden brown crust. Gently turn each Scallop over and sear for another minute. Serve on top of the asparagus purée and add sprinkled parsley and cracked black pepper. Enjoy!
2 Tbsp fresh chives, chopped 1 Tbsp fresh parsley, chopped sea salt and fresh ground pepper to taste
M E T H O D
Wash the cucumbers and cut off the blossom and stem ends, then remove the peel (this step is optional). Using a mandolin, slice the cucumbers approx. ⅛–¹⁄₁₆-inches thin (the thinner the better). Place the cucumber slices into a medium bowl and sprinkle with ½ tsp of salt. Mix to distribute the salt, then allow the cucumbers to sit while you prepare the dressing. In a small bowl, combine the sour cream (or yogurt), shallot, vinegar, mustard, olive oil, sugar, dill, parsley and chives. Mix until incorporated, then taste and adjust as desired. Pour the dressing over the salted cucumbers and stir until evenly coated (the cucumber juices will nicely thin the dressing). Add salt and pepper to taste. Cover and allow to chill in the fridge for at least 1–2 hours. Prior to serving, give it a good stir to re-incorporate the dressing.
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32 SUMMER 2022 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND
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