Edible Vancouver Island November/December 2023

ISSUE 24 • NOV/DEC 2023

Featuring Our Holiday Gift Guide

Celebrating Local Food Stories of Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands

I will never forget my first West Coast Christmas. I was 18 years old, and I had just moved to Vancouver from Edmonton. I had decided to take a gap year and work, make some money and explore this beautiful, new-to-me city. What I didn’t count on was how lonely I would be. Despite this, I was determined to experience every West Coast Christmas tradition I could, even if I had to do it alone. So, I went to the annual Sailpast at Vancouver Rowing Club, the lighting of the Christmas Tree at Robson Square, and I even strapped on some skates and twirled around the smallest outdoor rink I have ever skated on. I bought hot chocolate and sipped it while riding the Bright Nights Christmas Train in Stanley Park, I nibbled on roasted chestnuts at Granville Island and I had my first winter salmon dinner.

PUBLISHER + EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Karen Elgersma

ART DIRECTOR Leanne Von Hollen EDITOR

Danielle Steiner COPY EDITOR Trish Weatherall OPERATIONS MANAGER Corry Matechuk SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Jenny Leung PHOTOGRAPHERS Heidi Richter Jasmine Alexander D.L. Acken Danielle Steiner Derek Bissonnette AD DESIGN Leanne Von Hollen

I loved how different Christmas on the coast was, and I enjoyed being a lone traveller, exploring this new place. But I also remember thinking, “One day, I am going to have family and friends here I can share these experiences with.” Fast forward 38 years, and I still get a thrill when my family and I take in the Sidney Sailpast, go for a nature walk in the rain forest, or have a winter picnic on the beach like Theodore Cosco describes (page 32). There is truly nothing like the holidays on the coast; from the annual polar bear swims on New Year’s Day that Danielle Steiner enjoys (page 40) to planning the festive things we want to do (page 48) to deciding what new recipes we want to try–like Emily Lycopolus’ new twist on a traditional side dish (page 31). Regardless of the recipes you make and the gatherings you attend this festive season, may your holidays be filled with love, laughter and a deep sense of joy that comes from being with those we love. Karen Elgersma

ADVERTISING Dawn Postnikoff Peggie Terry ediblevancouverisland.com/advertise CONTACT US 140-4392 West Saanich Road Victoria, BC, V8Z 3E9 editor@ediblevancouverisland.com TO SUBSCRIBE Visit us online at ediblevancouverisland.com Edible Vancouver Island is published six times a year. Subscription rate is $42 CAD annually. LETTERS We welcome your feedback. To write to the editor, use the address above or, for the quickest response, email: editor@ediblevancouverisland.com

“For me, Christmas is the heart and soul of the cold months, the jewel in the crown of midwinter, the time to feast and to give. But it is, after all is said and done, just a few days that sit at the heart of the season. Three months of our year in which to offer warmth, welcome and something good to eat to all.” –Nigel Slater’s The Christmas Chronicles

ISSUE 24 • NOV/DEC 2023

We Deliver! Subscribe at ediblevancouverisland.com to have copies delivered right to your door. Check out our website and follow us on social media @EdibleVanIsle for up-to-date events, recipes and news from the food and drink community of Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands and the surrounding areas.

ISSUE 24 • NOV/DEC 2023 WINTER PICNICS • PEPPERMINT • HOLIDAY ACTIVITIES FEATURING OUR Holiday Gift Guide

Celebrating Local Food Stories of Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands

On the cover: Mint Chocolate Icebox Cookies by Heidi Richter

2023 Food and Beverage Report: Mid-year update

Margins are looking to be lower in 2023 Food and beverage manufacturing margins have been under pressure since 2019, and 2023 will be no different. Beverage margins will struggle more than food, with margins nearly 50% lower than in our base year 2019 (Figure 2).

Six months after our 2023 Food and Beverage Report was published, we look at how food and beverage manufacturers have performed so far this year, provide forecasts for the remainder of 2023 and early 2024, and highlight trends to watch moving forward. Inflation driving strong sales growth in H1 2023 Sales numbers for the first half of 2023 (H1) were steady, with an increase of 8.4% for food manufacturing and 7.3% for beverage manufacturing compared to the same period in 2022 (Table 1).

Table 1: Food manufacturing sales are up in the first half of 2023

Index of gross margin % of revenue (2019 = 100)

120

100

88.6

Table 1: Food manufacturing sales are up in the first half of 2023

80

2023

2024

54.9

60

H1

H2f

H1f

40

$, BILL.

%, Y/Y

$, BILL.

%, Y/Y

$, BILL.

%, Y/Y

20

Food and beverage

80.6

8.3 84.0

2.7 82.4

2.2

0

Food

73.2

8.4 75.6

2.1 74.3

1.6

2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 2023f

2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 2023f

Food

Beverage

Bakery and tortilla products

8.5

16.2 9.2

6.6 9.1

7.2

Source: FCC Economics, Statistics Canada

Dairy products

8.9

6.6 9.5

4.5 9.5

7.0

Fruit and vegetable preserving and specialty food

5.2

11.3 5.5

1.8 5.4

2.5

Trends to watch Softening labour markets

Grain and oilseed milling

10.9

15.4 9.6 -12.0 9.4 -13.9

Meat products

19.6

5.2 20.1

0.9 19.8

1.2

The job vacancy rate for food manufacturing and food wholesalers is in line with pre-pandemic averages. Wage growth remains an issue for employers. Foodservice demand Earlier this year, real (i.e., inflation-adjusted) spending on food services returned to pre-pandemic levels. With an economic slowdown occurring, this type of discretionary spending will struggle to grow. It could even contract if the slowdown turns into a recession. Slowing global economic growth Exports are still strong in 2023, though lower than the last two years. Any global slowdown – particularly in the U.S., Canada’s largest agri-food trading partner – will impact export sales opportunities.

Seafood preparation

3.0

-1.8 3.2

15.2 3.5

15.6

Sugar and confectionary products

2.7

10.1 2.8

2.0 2.5

-6.9

Beverages

7.4

7.3 8.4

8.6 8.0

8.1

Soft drinks

2.5

13.7 2.6

3.1 2.7

9.2

Breweries

3.5

8.1 4.0

9.7 3.8

10.7

Distilleries

0.7

13.1 0.8

27.9 0.7

4.0

Wineries

0.8 -14.1 1.0 -20.0 0.8

-2.4

Sources: Statistics Canada, FCC Economics

These are nominal sales numbers, meaning they do not account for inflation. When accounting for inflation, growth for food manufacturers in H1 was 1.0% and -2.6% for beverage manufacturers. Considering the large increase in nominal sales in H1, we see 2023 sales for the food and beverage sector at $164 billion (5.4% growth).

For additional forecasts and commentary, read our full mid-year review at fcc.ca/Economics

Graeme Crosbie, Senior Economist

NOV/DEC 2023 CONTENTS No. 24

1 welcome letter 4 FIELD NOTES Edible news + notes worth sharing 6 Holiday Gift Guide 8 EDIBLE Guide 14 current craving Christmas Merri-mint by Heidi Richter 19 Feature Article Christmas in Ukraine by Oksana Firak 22 EDIBLE Design Hosting the Holidays by Jessica McKeil 24 Holiday experience Guide 28 Celebrations The Playfully Decadent Table by Emily Lycopolus 32 Island Experience A Mug of Holiday Cheer by Danielle Steiner

35 LOCAL LIBATIONS Mocktails Making Spirits Bright by Gabrielle Plonka 40 Feature article

"Brrr"-ing on a New Year by Danielle Steiner

48 Listicle

10 Top Things to do this Holiday Season by Karen Elgersma

RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE

16 Mint Chocolate Icebox Cookies

17 Crispy Fried

Cauliflower Bites with Yogurt Mint Sauce

21 Ukrainian Winter Salad

31 Farro Stuffed Pumpkins

43 Polar Plunge Lunch

46 Thermos Love

The Art of the Winter Feast by Teddy Cosco

ON THIS PAGE: Thermos Love. Photo by Derek Bissonnette

ediblevancouverisland.com 3

edible news + notes worth sharing field notes Happy holidays! » If we printed a list of all the awesome Christmas fairs and markets to attend, well, we’d “ Doughnut " miss out » For the doughnut lovers among us: Underground Donut Tour has come to Victoria. As "the world’s only food Tour specializing in donuts," they will take you around to some of the hottest doughnut locales in

have to print another entire magazine! But we hope you take the opportunity this holiday season to shop for local gifts at one of the many markets throughout the Island and Gulf Islands. Support our

the city, spanning three kilometers of walking and two hours of touring. Of course–drinks and doughnuts are included in the ticket price! » Speaking of doughnuts in Victoria, The Doughnut Vault opened by a former welder who fell in love with making the perfect doughnut. This is a shop you need to visit at least once a month–because the flavour

local artisans and craftspeople and get unique gifts for your loved ones, from gifts for foodies to home chefs to kids in the kitchen, and so much more. News to know » A fun stop to take between Christmas shopping is The Gingerbread Showcase , which is back for its 15th Anniversary, this year at the Hotel Grand Pacific. With the theme of Family Traditions, the possibilities are endless. Entry to the showcase is free, but visitors are encouraged to donate when they vote for their favourite piece; donations go directly to Habitat for Humanity Victoria’s build fund. The Fairmont Empress recently welcomed four new culinary leaders to their team: Steven Fernandes, Executive Sous Chef; Tyler Paquette, Q at the Empress Restaurant Chef; Lucas Gurtner, Sous Chef; and Gerald Tan, Executive Pastry Chef. The four will work with Executive Chef Morgan Wilson and more than 80 other culinary professionals to produce hyper-local and seasonal menus reflective of the region’s abundance.

options change every month! Another place to check out is Oso Cookies and Donuts , the dessert cafe of your dreams. One glance at their social media pages will have you drooling over their sweet treats, as they take as much care in the beauty of their offerings as they do the flavours. » For the "best donuts on Vancouver Island," according to their business sign, you have to visit The Donut Shop in Port Alberni. Serving up the sweet circles for more than a decade, they know their way around doughnuts. Enjoy one with a view over the harbour for a perfect afternoon treat. » North Island, you’ve got doughnut options too: Perks Donuts and Restaurant keeps the sugar buzz alive in Campbell River with an impressive selection of doughnuts and doughnut-adjacent treats like churros, cinnamon buns, cookies and fritters.

*Editor's Note: Some businesses use the spelling "donut," but we follow Canadian English standards, which uses "doughnut." Regardless of the spelling opinions, we can all agree to come together over our love of the doughy circles!

We update our Edible News + Notes online monthly. Check ediblevancouverisland.com and follow @EdibleVanIsle on social media

4 NOV/DEC 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

Mark your maps » In Nanaimo, Tintin Restaurant is a new restaurant and grocery store combo that is definitely worth checking out. They offer a unique variety in both their market and their dining room, including 100% halal cuisine, Vietnamese noodle soup, bubble tea and groceries. » While you're in Nanaimo, if you’re looking for a cool place with funky vibes and a unique atmosphere, be sure to stop by The Vault Cafe . They host a variety of open mic nights, live music and events, and are also just a neat place to meet with

Sad to see you go » We are always sorry to see local business close but are thankful for the time we did have to enjoy food and drink experiences with them. Bespoke Spirits in Parksville closed their doors this fall, and Coastal Boards and Bites in Nanaimo followed suit November 1st. The Beach House Restaurant at Cordova Bay also closed earlier this year. And scheduled to close beginning of December is Java Jo’s Cafe in Victoria, known for hosting vintage car shows.

friends and catch up over a cup of coffee. » Fans of poke have enjoyed Poke Page in Nanaimo and Parksville; now those in the Comox Valley can too, with the opening of Poke Page 4 in Courtenay. They have options to build your own bowl or choose from one of their signature bowls, giving you the best fusion of Japanese and Hawaiian flavours through fresh and healthy ingredients. » The Beaufort Ave Pub opened recently in

Shoprite At Home Furniture, Appliances & Home Decor Book Shelf New Books, Unique Children’s Toys & Costumes The Flower Bar Fresh Flowers & Indoor Plants 1700 Broughton Blvd. Port McNeill, BC 250-956-8217

Comox and promises to be a good time with some classic pub food. Run by the Comox Legion 160, Legion as a nonprofit, all monies go to veterans and local community. They have evenings that offer comedy, music and more, and the multiple large TVs are a great way to catch a game over a pint.

A revived food security initiative in Campbell River makes it easy for consumers to connect with their local producers. The Campbell River Food Map lists growers and producers in the Strathcona Region to help the local economy as people invest in the food opportunities around them. » Victoria Cannabis Company in downtown Victoria recently recieved approval to operate a farm-to-table business model. They venture into new territory as the first Vancouver Island cannabis company to do so–and only the 10th in the country.

ediblevancouverisland.com 5

GIFT GUIDE a few finds from local shops that food folks on your list will love! holiday

HANSELL & HALKETT vintage home decor offers timeless pieces for your home and garden. Whether full of

kitchen utensils or potted herbs, these classic Laurel Crocks add a little something special to any space. Choose from several sizes, or get them all for a full collection! Handcrafted with American stoneware. hansellhalkett.com

COCOCO CHOCOLATIERS Award winning fine chocolates made with simple ingredients and sustainable couverture. Their dramatic chocolate Yule logs and famous Copper Ballotin Boxes of assorted award-winning chocolates have been a beloved part of gift-giving for decades. cococochocolatiers.com

Complete your holiday shopping with a LITTLE QUALICUM CHEESEWORKS gift basket. With several options to choose from, each basket is filled with handcrafted cheese paired with local and Canadian products to complement your charcuterie spread perfectly. It’s the perfect gift for food lovers, housewarming or hostess gifts. Pre-order online. cheeseworks.ca

SALTSPRING KITCHEN LTD. Remember the best cheese board spread you ever had? SaltSpring Kitchen was there. Since 2012, they've been spreading the love for jams, preserves, and hot sauces that elevate the everyday. Their Winter Collection contains four varieties that make entertaining an instant success. saltspringkitchen.com

SPONSORED CONTENT

6 NOV/DEC 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

FRENCH PRESS COFFEE ROASTERS & CAFÉ The seasonal blends from the multi-award winning French Press Coffee Roasters & Café in Qualicum Beach and Parksville will delight even the most discerning connoisseur. Shop online, visit the roastery in either location and ask about their wholesale program. fpcoffeeroasters.com

YELLOW POINT FARMS DRIED GARLIC Discover their garlic in a new way. This aromatic all natural locally grown garlic is dried and packaged in a convenient grinder so you can enjoy it all year long. It's delicious on meats, veggies, garlic bread, and in soups. The gift set includes a reusable grinder and resealable bag with over three refills. They also blend their own blueberry leaf tea and have local honey, preserves, babydoll sheep wool, goat milk soap and more available in their quaint farm store. yellowpointfarms.com

UNSWORTH VINEYARDS The popular CSR Program is back at Unsworth Vineyards. We are excited to be working with local farmers to prepare extra-special dinners for CSR members. Meals are valued at $85 and include tax and gratuity. Membership details can be found online at unsworthvineyards.com

MARTHA’S DELECTABLES SHORTBREAD - A LITTLE BIT SWEET, A LITTLE BIT SAVOURY New this season is their Savoury Cheese and Herb shortbread. Their Orange Brandy is a holiday favourite in addition to Canadian Maple, Lemon and our Classic. Whether it’s sweet or savoury there is something for everyone. Order online marthasdelectables.ca/shop-online

FOREST FOR DINNER Unwrap the extraordinary this Christmas with Forest For Dinner. Their handpicked, small-batch treasures from Vancouver Island's untamed wilderness make the perfect gift for any food enthusiast. From wild berries to artisanal preserves and exquisite marinated fungi, their products are a gourmet journey through nature's finest. Give the gift of exceptional flavour this holiday season. Visit forestfordinner.ca for a taste of wilderness, or find them at select retailers.

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ediblevancouverisland.com 7

WORDS DANIELLE STEINER ILLUSTRATIONS JASMINE ALEXANDER

A highlight of the holiday season, festive beverages are both nostalgic reminders of Christmases past and conduits for new memories that will be fondly recalled for years to come. And as it turns out, these seasonal drinks actually bring their own stories to the table.

Spiced Cider

Hot Chocolate

Hot Toddy

Irish Coffee

Mulled Wine

8 NOV/DEC 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

IN SEASON RECIPE EDIBLE GUIDE

IN HISTORY... The first mention of apple cider comes from the Romans and their invasion in 55 BC of the region that would later become England. Soldiers found the locals enjoyed a cider-like beverage made from apples and it quickly gained popularity, spreading throughout Europe and beyond. Historically, this cider was left raw and unprocessed, causing it to ferment and become alcoholic, and was often used to pay wages and rents. AT HOME... Unfermented, fresh apple cider is a delicious and sweet winter treat, especially when heated and added to a concoction of spices (think all spice, nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon) and a touch of brown sugar. If you want to introduce a little alcohol, try a splash of Drunken Hive Rum from Wayward Distillery. IN HISTORY... The sweet hot chocolate we know today didn’t begin that way. Instead, it’s believed that it was a spicy, bitter drink comprised of ground cocoa seeds, chili peppers, water and cornmeal. It’s been traced back as early as 500 BC to the Mayans. It was brought from Mexico to Spain in the 1500s, and as it gained popularity, it also gained recipe variations, eventually leading to the sweeter options we’re more familiar with today. AT HOME... To start from scratch, heat milk, cocoa powder, sugar and vanilla. You can also melt down your favourite chocolate bar with milk, or try Chocolate Tofino’s Hot Chocolate Elixir Orbs. Make a spiked version by adding a pour of Victoria Distiller’s aromatic spirit Sidney Spice. IN HISTORY... Consider the history of the hot toddy a bit of a “choose-your-own-adventure.” Some say it originated in India from the word “taddy,” which referred to a fermented palm sap drink, and in the 1700s became the word for an alcoholic drink mixed with hot water, spices and sugar. But another version of history attributes the drink to Irish doctor Robert Bentley Todd, who is said to have prescribed ill patients with a mixture of hot brandy, water, cinnamon and sugar. AT HOME... Regardless of its origin, hot toddies today are indisputably a popular winter drink. Heat lemon, honey, water and cinnamon with Shelter Point Distillery’s Single Malt Whisky. Garnish with a lemon slice and cinnamon stick . IN HISTORY... Irish coffee has a much more recent date of birth, having been invented in Ireland in the 1940s. The most popular origin story credits chef Joe Sheridan, who worked the restaurant at Foynes Airport. Poor weather demanded a plane full of passengers turn back, and when it returned, the passengers went in search of a much-needed drink. Sheridan poured some whisky into their coffee, and a new classic was born. AT HOME... Born in a storm, it’s no surprise the drink is a winter favourite. Make a pot of your favourite coffee (try French Press Coffee Roasters or Mile Zero Coffee Co.) and add brown sugar and whisky. Top with heavy whipped cream and a sprinkle of chocolate shavings. IN HISTORY... The ancient Greeks are said to have heated and spiced their wine to preserve it as long as possible, and/or (depending who you ask) use it as a medicinal tonic, but the ancient Romans are purported to be the first to record written recipes of mulled wine. From there, the concept spread across Europe and variations eventually cemented themselves in the cultures of various countries. AT HOME... This is a fun one to experiment with to find your favourite style, but a good place to start is with an orange, cloves, star anise, honey, and cinnamon. Use a red wine, such as Pinot Noir from Averill Creek Vineyard, and a brandy, like the one from Arbutus Distillery.

ediblevancouverisland.com 9

Clockwise from upper left: Customers enjoy the sunshine while listening to tunes during the 101 days of live music at Qualicum Beach Café Fern + Cedar host live music of all different genres twice a week during the summer months. Country singer Melissa Endean impresses the crowd with her original music at Fern + Cedar. Local artist Myc Sharratt plays his folk rock music at the waterfront at Qualicum Beach Café. The Rusted Rake Brewing in Nanoose offers a plentiful menu of appetizers to enjoy with live music out on the patio. Experience farm to-tap and live music throughout the year at Rusted Rake Brewing.

10 NOV/DEC 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

For more music and food in Parksville Qualicum Beach, scan the code

The Sound of Dinner Did you know that when you pick a restaurant to eat at, you’re considering more than just their menu?

“A dining experience really has four key components to it,” says Eli Brennan of Qualicum Beach Café. “One of them, of course, is the culinary expression. Two is the beverage, then we have third the hospitality. And then fourth is the music and the atmosphere of where we're located in that time and place. And that music tends to bring us to a memory in the past or create that new memory in the moment.” Qualicum Beach Café began offering music on their patio during COVID, when they legally were unable to have local artists play inside. They played 100 days of patio live music as a safe opportunity for musicians to play and guests to enjoy an experience during the otherwise challenging time. It’s a trend they’ve carried forward past the pandemic, now offering 101 days of patio live music each year. “We take from the talent pool and amazing community around us and offer an outlet for that art to be expressed daily, which is really exciting,” Brennan says. “We get to experience these amazing artists that we might not necessarily see otherwise and give an outlet for those artists to actually be able to perform and share their art with us as the community.” It’s easy to see the abundance of local talent with the number of restaurants offering live music. Without it, 101 days of live music at Qualicum Beach Café wouldn’t be possible. Rebecca Clark, a manager at the eatery, notes, “There’s just so much talent on the island; there is so much of that local connection, whether it's someone that is local or someone who's a tourist and they're visiting from anywhere in the world.” Clark says it’s a special thing to witness the community coming together each day for the live music experience. “You have your families coming down for kids to be able to dance on the patio, and you'll get some of those beautiful couples that are just enjoying their meals and also taking a break to dance as well.” The live music gives people the opportunity to take a break from their busy life, to linger a little longer than they might normally otherwise. By offering music alongside their menu, Qualicum Beach Café elevates their dining experience to a new level. “When we add music to another sensory experience, like food, like beverage, it just enhances it and gives an opportunity for us as hospitality professionals to have another little edge of making a special moment in time for our guests,” Brennan explains. “And that’s what it’s all about.”

Jody Gamow of Rusted Rake agrees. “Eating is not necessarily just about tasting; it’s about seeing, it’s about being present with the people around you, with the music.” The brewery offers live music year-round, offering patrons the opportunity to sit and stay awhile to enjoy the experience, or considering dining out on a night they may not normally consider. The live music at Rusted Rake contributes to their relaxing vibe, drawing in people from all walks of life. And the smaller venue size of a restaurant also offers a more intimate music experience. “You see the passion that a musician has for music and you’re sharing that experience with them,” Gamow says. “So not only are you dining, but you’re sharing an experience with somebody else not necessarily at your table.” Offering live music at Rusted Rake was a natural decision for Gamow and her husband, who bought Rusted Rake with the intent of creating a gathering place for their community. “My husband was born and raised in the area and my family’s been here for 30 years, and we saw that that was very much a missing asset to the community,” Gamow explains. They offer a variety of live music that draws more people in and finds friends and families gathering to enjoy the dining experience. This sense of community around live music is also why Fern & Cedar Brewing Co. invites musicians to play at their establishment. “It’s important for us to have live music to bring the community together, to bring music to the community,” says Fern & Cedar’s Kerri Wilson. They’ve had live music evenings since they first opened in December of 2021, the idea a key tenet to their business model. Most of their musicians are from Vancouver Island, with a few coming from further afield in BC. “The abundance that we have on the island of local talent is just absolutely wonderful to have at our fingertips,”Wilson says. Ultimately, the mingling of music and food is curated at each restaurant to provide guests with a memorable evening that they’re eager to repeat. “They build that memory with that artist and with that venue,” says Brennan. Music is linked so closely to memory, and restaurants in Parksville Qualicum Beach have the perfect opportunity to connect to their guests to a dining experience with measures that go beyond their culinary expertise.

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ParksvilleQualicumBeach.com

ediblevancouverisland.com 11

Things to Do

Start Exploring Parksville Qualicum Beach is where memories come to life; the smells and sounds, tastes and textures that bring you back to a time when the world was a little smaller, people were a little nicer, and time wasn’t a big worry. Whether you’re planning a summer vacation, a spring getaway, or a winter escape, alone or with the important people in your life, use our blog to discover the unique mix of people, businesses, and experiences that are sure to make your next visit memorable. Welcome to the small-town charm of our communities! myPQB.ca/blog

Milner Christmas Magic

Faire Living. Photo: Jordan Dyck

Local halibut, salmon, ling cod and more available in store, as well as live, local crabs and shellfish!

GIVE THE GIFT OF TIME THIS SEASON

Fresh from the boat to you! F RENCH CREEK SEAFOOD LTD. (250) 248-2888 | frenchcreek.ca Located in French Creek Harbour at 1097 Lee Rd, Parksville

The Notch. Photo: @peachesthewanderingyogi

NANAIMO, VANCOUVER, VICTORIA FAST, FREQUENT FLIGHTS

LESS TIME GETTING THERE, MORE TIME BEING THERE!

NANAIMO | VANCOUVER | VICTORIA

helijet.com |

helijet | 1.800.665.4354

12 NOV/DEC 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

VisitParksvilleQualicumBeach.com

Make it a Special Occasion.

Pickles & preserves for your holiday table. Handcrafted custom gift boxes. catieshotdilledbeans.com

crownmansion.com

Advocating for People & Place

RE/MAX First Realty PARKSVILLE QUALICUM BEACH

www.viviensears.ca 250 951 7048

PHIL DWYER BARRISTER & SOLICITOR LAW

Visit our tasting room 8-1343 Alberni Hwy, Parksville misguidedspirits.ca

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phildwyerlaw.com

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The perfect gift for your chef

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ediblevancouverisland.com 13

champion of the holiday season Peppermint

is the versatile culinary

WILDLY FRESH

We put it to use year round, but this common herb really shines come winter.

Boulangerie

Stay tuned for our Christmas advent and seasonal specialities

125 Second Ave, Qualicum Beach

14 NOV/DEC 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

CURRENT CRAVING

MERRI-MINT

WORDS + PHOTO HEIDI RICHTER

Minty red- and white-striped canes hung on vibrant evergreens–a common sight this time of year. Like gingerbread, peppermint is a defining flavour of the holidays, its cool and refreshing flavour reminiscent of icy snow and crisp air. We habitually flock to it come December; however, peppermint’s potent flavour and aroma have been treasured for millennia with uses more diverse than that stash of mini candy canes in your handbag. As a member of the Lamiaceae family, mints are related to other aromatic herbs such as lavender, sage and rosemary. Several dozen cultivars of mint exist, each with overlapping characteristics and varying amounts of menthol, the active compound that gives these perennials their cooling properties. Crossbreeding of spearmint, one of the oldest varieties, and wild mints gave rise to several hybrids, the most well known, of course, being peppermint. Because of its specific pedigree (spearmint and water mint), peppermint contains a potent amount of menthol tempered with sweetness–this particular profile has made it the dominant variety grown and used worldwide. Most grocery stores carry fresh mint year-round, but it can also be grown indoors as an attractive and useful houseplant. Peppermint has origins in the Mediterranean and North African regions, its fresh leaves and extracts prized for medicinal, spiritual and culinary practices since 1500 BC. Ancient Egyptians, Romans and Greeks reportedly used it to flavour food and wine, perfume homes or temples and treat various ailments such as indigestion and headaches. With its alleged antibacterial and antifungal properties, mint was also used to preserve food and, during the medieval era, its refreshing qualities were ideal for freshening breath and disguising odours. Today, peppermint remains widespread in modern cuisine, aromatherapy, herbal remedies and cosmetics via oral care products.

come winter. Exactly how it became associated with the holidays is a bit of a mystery, though. Records from 17th century Germany depict peppermint candy shaped as shepherd’s canes doled out to children during lengthy nativity services. Moreover, peppermint was historically offered to guests as a symbol of hospitality and friendship. Though historians still contemplate its earliest initiation into the holiday hall of fame, illustrations from late 19th century Europe more concretely depict the use of peppermint canes on Christmas trees, a tradition that endures to this day.

Culinary uses for peppermint are extensive and much anticipated during the festive season. Menthol produces a palate-cleansing effect and adds contrast to rich or sugary dishes–mint chutneys, sauces or herb rubs brighten up fatty fish, chicken or lamb dishes; fresh leaves wake up roasted vegetables and add an additional chill factor to spritzers and cocktails. Peppermint extract or hard candies are a go-to for desserts like chocolate mint cake, peppermint brownies or peppermint bark. However, when it comes to holiday baking, there

Peppermint contains a potent amount of menthol tempered with sweetness–this particular profile has made it the dominant variety grown and used worldwide.

are instances when using fresh mint, as opposed to an extract, adds a discrete yet irrefutably minty profile without being overpowering. A few seconds in the food processor will turn granulated sugar and fresh mint leaves into a frosty green spectacle that can be seamlessly mixed into cookie dough or cake batter. Regardless of how it came to be, peppermint’s affinity for the holidays seems a natural fit. Quietly sipping a peppermint mocha from my spot on the sofa, relishing in the aroma of fresh chopped mint in my roasted vegetables or sharing a plate of mint cookies with family and friends is a perfect way to uplift the spirits and indulge amidst the *ahem* excite-mint of the season.

Heidi Richter is a Nanaimo-based food photographer and recipe developer with a taste for anything mint chocolate no matter the time of year. thesimplegreen.com | @the_simple_green

We put it to use year-round, but this common herb really shines

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RECIPES + PHOTOS HEIDI RICHTER

Mint Chocolate Icebox Cookies

Prep 25 min Chilling 2 hours Bake 12 min

INGREDIENTS 1¾ cups all-purpose flour ⅔ cup Dutch process cocoa powder ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp salt 1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup packed (25g) fresh mint leaves, washed and dried ¾ cup unsalted butter, softened 1 large egg 1 tsp vanilla extract coarse sanding sugar or granulated sugar for rolling METHOD In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder and salt. Set aside. Add the granulated sugar and mint leaves to a food processor and blend until the mint is finely chopped and the sugar turns a green hue. In a large bowl, beat together the butter and mint sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in the egg and vanilla extract until combined. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture and beat on low speed until the dough comes together and no flour streaks remain. Turn out the dough onto a large piece of parchment paper. Using your hands, shape and roll the dough into a smooth cylinder approximately 2 inches in diameter and 14 inches long. Roll the dough tightly in the parchment, making sure to maintain the shape, then twist the ends like a candy wrapper. Place in the fridge for minimum 2 hours or overnight. After the dough has chilled, preheat the oven to 350°F and line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Set aside. On a large cutting board, unwrap the dough and sprinkle the sanding sugar on the parchment wrapper, then roll the dough in the sugar to coat evenly. Slice the dough into rounds a little wider than ¼ inch. Place the rounds on the prepared baking tray about one inch apart. Gently reshape any rounds if needed. Bake in the preheated oven for 12-14 minutes or until the centres have some resistance when lightly pressed. Remove from the oven and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Notes If fresh mint is not available, use ½ tsp of peppermint extract and add it along with the egg and vanilla.

Fresh mint leaves are blended with granulated sugar and combined with customary ingredients to create a unique chocolate mint cookie experience. Peppermint extract can be used interchangeably for fresh mint for a more intense mint flavour (see notes). Cookies will last up to 3 days in an airtight container. Makes approx . 40 cookies

Peppermint is a defining flavour of the holidays, its cool and refreshing flavour reminiscent of icy snow and crisp air.

16 NOV/DEC 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

cauliflower bites 1 head (650g) cauliflower, washed and cut into bite-sized florets ⅔ cup all-purpose flour 3 Tbsp cornstarch

Crispy Fried Cauliflower Bites with Yogurt Mint Sauce

1½ tsp garlic powder 1 tsp onion powder ½ tsp sea salt ½ tsp ground black pepper 1 Tbsp finely chopped parsley ¾ cup filtered water

vegetable oil for frying mint yogurt sauce 1 cup high fat (10%) plain Greek yogurt ¼ cup mint leaves, washed then finely chopped 1 clove garlic, finely minced or grated juice of half a lemon ½ tsp sea salt ¼ tsp fresh black pepper METHOD Prepare the sauce To a small bowl, add all the sauce ingredients and mix until well combined. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Blanch the cauliflower Prepare an ice bath. In a medium pot, bring plenty of water to a boil (enough to cover the florets), then carefully add the florets and boil for 2-3 minutes, just until tender crisp. Using a slotted spoon, remove the florets and immerse in the prepared ice bath. Remove from the ice bath and drain on paper towel. Prepare the batter and frying oil In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, cornstarch, garlic powder, onion powder, salt, pepper and parsley. Add water and whisk until a smooth batter forms. Heat approximately ½ an inch of vegetable oil in a deep skillet over medium high; the oil will be ready when a drop of batter in the pan instantly sizzles. Adjust the heat slightly if the oil starts smoking. Batter and fry the cauliflower Once the oil is ready, individually dredge the cauliflower florets in the batter, tap off excess and carefully place in the hot oil using tongs (watch out for splatter). Repeat with additional florets, making sure not to crowd the skillet (6-8 at a time). Fry for 2-3 minutes on each side or until golden brown and crispy. Remove from the oil and place on a large plate lined with paper towel. Repeat with the remaining florets. Serve Arrange the fried cauliflower on a large platter and serve with the mint yogurt dipping sauce. Serve immediately for maximum crispiness. If fresh mint is not available, use ½ tsp of peppermint extract and add it along with the egg and vanilla.

Seasoned, battered cauliflower florets fried until crispy and served with a cool, tangy yogurt mint sauce–this dish makes an ideal appetizer for a small gathering this holiday season. For a dairy-free version, replace the yogurt with a thick, non-dairy yogurt alternative (Yoggu brand is my preference). Serves 3–4

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DOWNTOWN SIDNEY

ExploreSidney.ca/Holidays

18 NOV/DEC 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

FEATURE ARTICLE

After the dinner, Grandmother would leave the bowl of kutya and a glass and spoon on the table for the relatives who have died.

WORDS OKSANA FIRAK Christmas in Ukraine Childhood memories of Christmases far away

W hen the joyful melody of jingle bells and bright decorations on the streets remind me that Christmas is approaching, my memory always takes me to Zolochiv, a picturesque small town in Western Ukraine. I was born and raised in this beautiful town, with its medieval castle and centuries-old churches. Traditionally, all generations–grandparents, parents and kids–celebrate Christmas together. When my mother’s parents were still alive, we celebrated Christmas in their cozy house in the little village, surrounded by forests and covered in snow. I like to close my eyes and imagine that wonderful time when I was a kid and Christmas was a pure fairy tale. We would go to the village a few days before Christmas and the magic would begin. My father would buy a big fluffy fir tree and my

sister, brother and I would decorate it with glass toys we inherited from our mother–colourful birds, animals, fruits, cones and balls, as well as candies and nuts wrapped in foil, and a big star on the top of the tree. Grandfather would spread hay on the floor, which symbolizes the manger where Christ was born. The little house would fill with the wonderful aroma of the dry herbs and flowers that had grown in our garden. In the corner under the icon (home altar), Grandfather would place a sheaf of wheat, a symbol of harvest, prosperity and wealth. And then Grandmother and Mother would start to cook the dishes for Christmas Eve dinner. According to traditions, the dinner must consist of 12 dishes for both the number of Apostles in the Bible and months in the year. All the dishes are lean, because on Christmas Eve ends the 40-day

ediblevancouverisland.com 19

fast. During this fasting, believers only eat lean food–no meat, eggs or dairy products. The main dish is kutya–boiled wheat with poppy seeds, nuts, raisins and honey. It is the same throughout the country and symbolizes connection between generations and prosperity. Other dishes vary in different regions of Ukraine, some of them with symbolic meaning. There is borsch (beetroot soup); soup from dried mushrooms; perogies with stewed sauerkraut; cabbage rolls with rice and buckwheat seeds; baked fish; herring; stewed beans; stewed cabbage with mushrooms; vinaigrette salad with boiled beets, carrots, beans, sauerkraut and homemade sunflower oil; Uzvar (a drink from dried fruits); and white wheat bread with raisins and poppy seeds. Mother would cover the table with a linen tablecloth that was embroidered with beautiful flowers by my grandmother, and in the centre was always placed the big ceramic bowl with kutya. When the first star in the night sky announced Christ’s birth, Grandfather would light the candle, and then we would pray and begin dinner. The little house was full of joy. After the dinner, Grandmother would leave the bowl of kutya and a glass and spoon on the table for the relatives who have died, as souls of the dead fly in the night to their homes to celebrate Christmas. Another very important Ukrainian Christmas tradition is caroling. The carolers–kolyadnyky-are kids and young people who go to neighbours' and relatives' homes to sing carols and wish prosperity, good health and happiness. When the kolyadnyky finish their singing, they get presents of sweets and money. In my childhood, I would wake up early in the morning, when outside was still dark, and go sing the carols to our closest neighbours. My mother had made me a nice linen bag for the presents, and when I returned my bag was always full of nuts, apples, pears, candies and coins, the latter of which I put in the ceramic moneybox to save. My older brother and sister usually joined the vertep, a group of young people who wear costumes of Bible characters and characters from Ukrainian history. They walked on the streets with a big star on a stick singing carols and wishing happiness and prosperity to everybody. Even when I was a student at the university, we had a nice tradition of visiting our university teachers and singing carols for them. I left my home when I was 17 and lived in Kyiv until March 2022, when I escaped with family members as the war with Russia began. But when I lived in Kyiv, I always went home to my parents' to celebrate Christmas. The night train brought me to Zolochiv in the early morning, when the town was still sleeping, the streets empty and quiet. The buildings were dark, but I always knew by the light in the window on the fourth floor in my parents' building that they were waiting for me.

Wishing you the best of the delights and flavours of the season! From all of us at Black Rock Oceanfront Resort

Tel: 250-726-4800 www.blackrockresort.com

As a Ukrainian refugee to Canada, Oksana Firak holds memories of her Ukrainian holidays close to her heart and loves to bring the traditions of her youth to her celebrations of today.

20 NOV/DEC 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

FEATURE RECIPE

A Food Lover’s Paradise

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Ukrainian winter salad A bright and hearty vegetable salad that is simple to make but certain to impress at a holiday gathering.

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METHOD Put potatoes and carrots in a pot with water, and beetroots and water in a second pot. Bring both pots to a boil. (If you put all the vegetables together, the potatoes and carrots will turn red becauseof the beetroots.) Potatoes will be ready in 25-35 minutes, carrots in 35-40, beetroots in 1.5-2 hours. When the vegetables can be easily pierced with a fork, they are ready. Alternatively, you can bake the vegetables in the oven. Preheat oven to 350°F, wrap the vegetables separately in aluminum foil and bake them the same amount of time as you would boil them. Once cooked, let the vegetables cool, dry them with a towel and peel off the skins. Then cut the cooked vegetables, cucumber and onion into small cubes and put in a deep dish. Add sauerkraut and beans. In a small bowl, mix together mustard seeds with oil, salt and pepper. Pour over the vegetable dish and stir to combine. Decorate with freshly cut parsley on top. Spread icing thinly on cooled cookies, topping with a tiny bit of lavender or other edible decorations while icing is still wet. Let set and serve.

INGREDIENTS 2 medium beetroots 2 large carrots 4 medium potatoes 2 medium pickled cucumbers 1 cup sauerkraut (150g) 1 can beans (250g) 1 small onion 1 Tbsp mustard seeds 4 Tbsp sunflower or olive oil

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EDIBLE DESIGN

Setting the scene for a joyous holiday get-together hosting the holidays

WORDS JESSICA MCKEIL PHOTOS D.L. ACKEN

For most dinner parties throughout the year, good food and great friends are often enough to declare a get-together a suc cess. But when the holiday season arrives, many hosts want to make their home extra special for guests–and that means going the extra mile to create an inviting and cohesive entertainment space. So, how do you set a scene that encourages joyous moments between loved ones? We asked experts Aurelia Louvet, an award-winning food stylist and cookbook author, and Paul Cham bers, owner of Davidson Chambers in Sidney, how to make a holiday party one for the scrapbook, and we discov ered that you don't need to splurge on a new set of holiday dinnerware or a colour-coordinated designer tree. Little touches in planning, prep and decor are all you need to create a cozy holiday atmosphere.

THE FOUR PILLARS OF HOLIDAY AMBIANCE Whether it’s just a few friends for cocktails or a full-on family turkey dinner, there are four guiding principles behind creating a welcoming setting for your holiday get-together. Declutter One of Louvet’s most brilliant tips for creating a serene holiday home actually happens before any decorating begins: decluttering. She says, "Clearing your space, especially if it’s a small space, taking away the excess, is welcoming when you walk in." This is where tiny steps make a great impression: remove the stack of paperwork, loose

change and keys from the front entry table; hide your extra boots and umbrella; and tuck the butter dish into a cupboard until mealtime. Making space in your home

helps reduce the visual noise for visitors, which allows them to bet ter absorb that festive feeling. Bonus perk: it also gives you more room for intentional holiday decor. Now you can replace those spare jackets with a holly-berry wreath.

Choose a tone Whether you ’ re a holiday maximalist or a minimalist, the first step in decorating is selecting your tone. Don ’ t feel pressured to commit to the traditional red and green or gold and silver. If you want to go wild working Pantone ’ s colour of the year, Viva Magenta, into the mix, that’s okay. Or you could try a more natural look by using neutrals with hints of nutmeg and frost. What matters is your commitment to your theme. Again, great holiday parties aren’t about blowing your budget on all new ornaments and china. Davidson's advice is to work with a set of basic white dinnerware. He adds, "I'm very much an advocate for white dinnerware, because you can use that year round." With a neutral foundation, adding a pop of colour or a warm tone to pull the space together is easy as holiday pie. Add warm lighting When asked about setting the holiday scene, the first thing that came to Louvet’s mind was lighting. In most spaces, bright overhead lights can feel harsh and intrusive, so consider decorative style lights which tend to feel warmer instead. Room-to-room candles are a stunning way

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to tie the holiday ambiance together. Visitors will feel at home from the moment they step into your entryway, all the way to the dining table. With so many shapes, sizes and colours-wicked or flameless-candles will always give your house a cozy energy. You can also tuck sparkling fairy lights into glass hurricanes to create a welcoming winter vibe. Strategically placed around the home, especially when combined with other festive decor like pinecones or fir bows, these gently twinkling lights will blend beautifully into your backdrop. Play background music Have you considered the acoustic landscape? You could throw on any ol ’ Christmas playlist, but Louvet assured us that joyful music doesn’t have to be limited to the holiday genre. With streaming services like Spotify and Apple Music, there are unlimited options to guide the tone. When in doubt, just let the party’s mood be your guide–whether it's ambient, smooth jazz or ‘60s classic hits, your guests will be grateful your soundtrack followed their lead. GO THE EXTRA MILE WITH A FEW PERSONAL TOUCHES Once you ’ ve decluttered your entertainment space, picked a great palette and added inviting lighting and music, you’ll want to sprinkle in a handful of personal touches. Bring a bit of nature inside Louvet recommends incorporating all-natural elements into your holiday, suggesting fir bows, pinecones and sprigs of holly as great foundational pieces. Bonus: many of these may be found in your backyard or sustainably collected as windfall, further adding to the outdoorsy feel. Make use of the versatile glass hurricane Davidson loves the versatility offered by a set of glass hurricanes. This might be the one must-have holiday item. Candles or fairy lights will add to the general ambiance, but he also suggests filling them with pinecones, cranberries or small Christmas ornaments. For each dinner, it’s easy to swap out the decorations to match the holiday or event theme. Layer textures into the place setting Build an extravagant tablescape by layering different textural elements into each place setting. Start with stacking napkins and dinnerware, then add a sprig of rosemary as a napkin tie, or a personalized wooden ornament as place settings. It’s easy, afford able decor that gives your holiday party a modest "wow" factor. Ambiance, when done right, can transform your next celebra tion into a memory that your friends and family will cherish for years to come. The best part is that creating a warm, inviting home isn’t about buying new decorations; it’s about appealing to your guests’ senses and taking the time to create a space that feels clean, comfortable and intimate. Jessica McKeil is a writer and owner of Sea to Sky Content, who lives on, eats from and explores Salt Spring Island. She'll be weaving all the tips for ambiance and decor for small spaces into her own hosting this holiday season.

Making space in your home helps reduce the visual noise for visitors, which allows them to better absorb that festive feeling.

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