Sheep Industry News August 2023

Council Gets Look at Pendleton Mill

HEATHER PEARCE ASI Wool Productions Program Manager A SI Wool Council members from across the United States converged in Washington for the summer Wool Council Meeting in mid-July. While the main purpose of the meeting was to discuss and approve a budget for ASI that will now be sent to the ASI Executive Board and Board of Directors for approval, the Wool Council didn’t miss the chance to also visit Pendleton Woolen Mill. Located next to the Columbia River, the Mill in Washougal, Wash., has inviting mill buildings with an upscale outpost type store next door. Everything is in the classic “Pendleton” style. Walking into the mill is surprisingly quiet…at least as far as mills go. This is mainly due to Pendleton's lean initiative, which is working to reduce waste and be more efficient. For the last few years, the mill has been introducing new spinning, warping and fulling machines. Next will be the new carding machines that will replace the work of three of the old, massive carding machines. Pendleton truly is investing in its future – as well as wool’s. Pendleton utilizes 27 different wool types from around the world from fine wool to carbonized wool. Of the raw wool used, 600,000 lbs. annually will be American wool – much of it coming from local producers. Pendleton likes to use healthy, high-quality wools that will work for their equipment and products. “We can be testing little lots of wool all the time to see if they will work,” said Pendleton’s Dan Gutzman. Large lots are also helpful to ensure consistent dyeing and processing. While Pendleton scoured its own wool years ago, American wool is now scoured at Bollman in San Angelo, Texas, and then returned to Washington. Following scouring, bales of wool are picked for a specific product and bound for one of the 12 card ing machines. Flowing through teeth that align and homog enize the wool, it flows out in sliver and is then stretched into roving. Roving is sent to the new and efficient spinning frames, creating yarn just the right weight and with just the right amount of twist. At this point, the scoured wool has already been in the Pend leton processing chain for three weeks and incurred most of the cost. Yarn is then sent to warping and weaving – parts of which take place at the mill in Pendleton, Ore. – after which it will be checked for any quality issues. If too many issues are found, the fabric will not continue to the finishing stage. Pendleton only

provides the highest quality products that can last a lifetime. Dyeing can take place at any given time from stock dyeing (dyeing scoured wool), dyeing yarn and piece dyeing (dyeing fabric and products). To ensure everything is dyed to the exact color – black is surprisingly hard to achieve – Pendleton uses a color photospectrometer. Finishing the fabric is where the magic really happens. Stiff fabric is turned into luscious, soft fabric that you’ll want to curl up with next to the fire. Not only does finishing the fabric change the handle and appearance, Pendleton can now offer an easy care line that is machine washable. Finally, finished fabric makes its way to the cutting and sewing department where a team works to cut the fabric, finish the edges, apply the recog nizable Pendleton label and fold it nicely into its package, ready for sale. Seven thousand blankets are made every year here by Pendleton’s team of 100 mill employees. Watching blanket patterns that most in the industry have come to know and love work their way through the equipment is both thrilling and humbling. In fact, Pendleton develops 400 new patterns every year – more than one every day – to cover its products and showcase with that iconic Pendleton style. During a special panel discussion with Pendleton leaders, in cluding CEO and President John Bishop, President of Sales and Marketing Bob Christnacht, Gutzman, and others, both Bishop and Christnacht noted how Pendleton’s customer has changed. The company’s main focus originally was on women’s wear. But blankets and home goods are far and away the most sold items now, followed by men’s and finally women’s wear. First opening a mill more than 100 years ago in 1909, Pendleton continues to evolve with the times, while never loosing the company’s high quality, classic style “We had a fantastic meeting with signs of optimism, and good discussions. It was a great opportunity to visit Pendleton and meet with company leaders about the challenges they face in manufacturing wool products,” said American Wool Council Co-Chair Anne Crider of Illinois. “It was a productive meet ing that provided valuable information to council members. We were all impressed by the extensive equipment investment Pendleton has made in recent years.” The Wool Council heard updates from Chargeurs, Groe newold Wool & Fur, and Fibershed on its Climate Beneficial Grant, as well as on domestic wool production programs – in cluding ASI’s American Wool Assurance Program. Updates also included discussion of military programs as the U.S. military is the largest domestic user of American wool.

10 • Sheep Industry News • sheepusa.org