PEORIA MAGAZINE June 2022

Wormeater’s clubs, packed people in elbow to elbow. There were others of varying success – anyone remember the Hawaiian themed Tiger Pit in Pioneer Park, or Sonoma Cucina in Bloomington? — lasting from nine months to 40 years. You could say that Shaw and his team have learned a few things along the trial-and-error way. “Location, location, location” certainly matters, but some restaurants – like Mercedes’ most enduring, Alexander’s – prove that other factors matter more. Indeed, at first blush, the Averyville neighborhood restaurant – not fully visible from the Adams Street main drag, in an old, worn industrial area in a building of 16,000 square feet that previouslyhoused a papermanufacturer, a distillery, a castings manufacturer, the oldWharf restaurant -- seemingly would not have been the ideal site. The lesson is that if the food is good and the service friendly and efficient, customers will find you, even in the most out-of-the-way place. “Once they figure out where you’re at,” the next thing is “the quality of the product. The consistency is so important,” said Shaw. “We don’t sell tires. We’ve got to sell good steaks. Protein is not cheap right now, but … we don’t compromise on quality.” Beyond that, “as an independent, if you don’t do things to connect with your customer, you’re not going to survive. We don’t have new buildings. We don’t have national name recognition. What we have is good people. That makes the difference.” Indeed, walk into many a chain restaurant and “chances are you don’t know the manager,” he said. “Chances are he’s not going to come by the table and say hi.” Shaw and hismanagers are a constant and visible presence, working the room, asking diners about their experience, chatting up their kids – “young children make a dining decision more than you think. It’s the 11-year-old that will want to go to Alexanders because of some experience he’s had, and hemight bring 15 people.” No one has to guess who’s in charge.

Local, hands-on management is critical. “With a distant restaurant, it’s a challenge. You’ve got to have managers with skin in the game,” said Shaw. He repeatedly credited quality employees who have stuck with the company – “They’re the key” -- a few up to 30 years, others who had long runs, left, then returned. That doesn’t happen so often anymore. “Hir ing af ter COVID has been the biggest challenge,” admitted Shaw. Looking back over the last half century, the pandemic probably posed the biggest threat to survival. The Payroll Protection Program (PPP) “was a salvation for many restaurants,” including his own. Customers have had to get back in the habit of going out again. Their tastes have evolved, too. “COVID exaggerated that experience,” but it would have happened anyway, said Shaw. “People are so busy today … Two family incomes, kids are involved with three different sports …” Anyone who makes it in the modern restaurant industry must learn to roll with the changes. Technology has altered everything. Customers scan QR codes on their iPhones and the menu pops up on a screen. “Dashboard dining” and “fast casual” are today’s buzzwords. Restaurants aren’ t smoke-f i l led anymore. Two-martini lunches are a thing of the past. If big groups seeking a communal experience – bachelor parties, teamget-togethers, etc. – used to be attracted by Alexander’s grill your-own feature, now 95 percent of customers let somebody else do the cooking. Restaurants have squeezed their hours. What hasn’ t changed is the commitment of time to be successful. That and the personal touch that goes such a longway. Indeed, there’s no telling howmanyprospectivestudents/athletes Alexander’s helped the U of I, ISU and Bradley impress, the latter with the big “B” branded into their steak or Texas toast. The restaurant recently hosted a hockey team from Virginia, 25 players and coaches, all of whom pre-ordered 14-ounce top sirloins. Families still come

Steve’s retirement party (L to R): Patti Shaw, Steve Shaw and Ron Helms

for holidays, birthdays, anniversaries, graduations, any milestone. In any case, this marks a transition for Mercedes. Long-time partner Ron Helms will become president, and Shaw will become chairman of the board and stay on as a “working consultant.” In short, he wouldn’t knowwhat to dowith himself if he just walked away, given that so much of his life has revolved around his restaurants. Wife Patti was an employee before she said “I do” and they had three sons together. They’ll celebrate 42 years and multiple grandchildren in September. “It’s a passion,” said Shaw. “You have to love what you do. If you enjoy your job, you’ll never work a day in your life. I really believe that.”

Mike Bailey is editor in chief of Peoria Magazine

JUNE 2022 PEORIA MAGAZINE 25