Missouri Life September 2023

WINE DOG

Passing Judgment

I CAN’T SAY WHEN I FIRST JUDGED AT THE MISSOURI STATE WINE COMPETITION. That’s not because you could call me ancient, but because I honestly don’t remember. I’m not sure how to figure out when I started. I guess it’s been around 40 years. In those early years, judging the wines was as simple as identifying those that were drinkable (as the rest were not). Norton was nearly the only grape that could assemble a sizable number of worthy wines, and only a handful of winer ies were likely to succeed. That changed a few decades ago. Since the ’90s, other grapes have demanded attention—Chambourcin chief amongst the red wines, while a host of delicious white grapes (Chardonel, Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc, Traminette, Valvin Muscat, and especially Vignoles) have offered material for dry, semi-sweet, and sweet wines, as well as sparklers and desserts. Though Missouri hosts more than 130 wineries, its wine grape acreage is not so expansive as to allow wineries to embrace all those grapes equally. Not so long ago, Seyval Blanc was ascendant; this year’s competition, held in July, saw only a few of those. Chardonel had a moment not long ago, and though the few Chardonels in the judging were better than in years past, it’s clear that many growers and winemak ers have moved on to some other shiny object. Vidal continues to show itself in myriad styles—dry, sweet, sparkling, dessert. Traminette and Valvin Muscat keep on expressing their exuberant floral aromas and tangy bodies. In truth, every single grape grown in Missouri is better made today than in the past; even old Catawba can be as eye-catching as grapes newer to the market. But Mother Nature is a harsh mistress, and the spring frosts of 2023 decimated much of the grape crop. Next year will see a lot less of the good stuff to spread around. Until then, 2022, 2021, and earlier vintages still have treasures to share, regardless of whether they are made in sweet, semi-sweet, or dry styles. Yes, yes, I know there are still people who maintain that Missouri wines are all sweet, but that’s no longer a matter of allowable opinion. Many are sweet, sure, for very good reasons. Unlike Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and the like, our grapes can be fiercely tart. A little sweetness softens them up. FREEPIK, D. BISHOP

A touch of sweetness ought to trouble no one, but, of course, each to his or her own preference. Naysayers need to understand that Missouri creates important dry wines. Our Chambourcin producers continue to set a standard heard around the continent. Vignoles is the most wonderful changeling, with stalwart sweet versions, but also complex and lustrous dry versions. These dry Vignoles wines may be the most astounding achievement for Missouri wine. I want to gather them up and show them to wine judges everywhere, not just in the United States. While there will be less wine to judge next year, with nature’s ill temper to blame, I’ve little doubt that the wines we taste and judge next summer will continue to set standards that will surprise wine professionals in other regions and countries. For someone who has assessed them right here for decades, they ignite a flame of regional pride.

BY DOUG FROST Doug is both a Master of Wine and Master Sommelier, one of only three in the world to achieve both titles. He lives in Kansas City.

A FEW SELECT WINNERS AT THE 2023 MO WINE COMPETITION Adam Puchta, Chambourcin 2022 Stone Hill, Old Vine Reserve Norton 2020

Montelle, Chardonel 2022 St. James, Vignoles 2022 Stonehaus Farms Vineyard & Winery, Vignoles 2022

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