Million Air Winter 2023/24

elite traveler WINTER 2023/24 151

Fromtop Arctic char served at Clarence; Ho Lee Fook; Magistracy Dining Room

CANTONESE CUISINE

Rosewood HongKong

Clarence ’s( clarencehk.com ) takeon fusion cooking is subtle, but signi fi cant: Its fabulous French dishes are often prepared using Asian cooking techniques (think charcoal grilling and steaming), so they’re still deliciously full-bodied without being heavy. It means guests can feast freely on zucchini- fl ower sea bream and caviar-crowned gamberoni tartare, but avoid the lethargy that often kicks in post-digestif. And it’s indicative of a broader dedication to perfection: Service is poised and perceptive; the wine list is wonderful; and there’s a pervasive sense of elegance that adds a little extra to the evening (if you’re here for a romantic evening, request a booth for extra privacy). It’snot all about the views at Cardinal Point bar and terrace ( cardinalpoint. com ), but they are spectacular. In Central, the harbor-facing rooftop venue is wedged between some of the city’s most beloved landmarks and skyscrapers. There are also punchy, playful cocktails inspired by diverse global fl avors (the potent Pandan Highball comes ‘aggressively carbonated’), and DJ sets move from ambient to upbeat as the night goes on.

In modern Hong Kong you don’t often come across truly historic buildings, which is partly why locals consider the Magistracy Dining Room ( themagistracyhongkong.com )oneof the city’s most beautiful restaurants. Housed in the renovated 19th-century Supreme Court, it leans into its colonial past with great British dishes — think Scottish razor clams and chicken-and mushroom-stu ff ed pies followed by a dreamy sticky to ff ee pudding. This is the place for a glorious evening of unrepentant comfort eating, with the occasional fl ash of theatrics and stellar service from a switched-on team. It’s not just its name that tells you Ho LeeFook ( holeefook.com ) doesn’t take things seriously. Walk down a stairwell framed by an army of waving golden cats and you’ll enter a fl amboyantly decorated dining room that’s perennially busy, soundtracked by upbeat tunes that might include some classic Whitney Houston. Supplemented by playful cocktails, the menu is ideal for anyone who’s unfamiliar with Cantonese cuisine: Dishes like roast goose with plum sauce, and salt-and-pepper squid with curry aioli, e ff ortlessly show newbies how delicious this fare can be.