Million Air Summer 2021

SPACE-AGE DESIGN Breaking down the lines of constraint, the independents began breathing new, creative life into watches. Suddenly three-dimensional, space-age looking timepieces were making their way to wrists around the world — and stealing the limelight. Among the brands that sparked this new millennium rage and have kept it going: Urwerk and MB&F in particular. Unable to find what they liked on the watch market, these creative brands turned to their imagination to develop unique and daring timepieces. They regularly unveil unconventional sculptures that seem to come out of a time warp. Many of these trailblazing watches boast multiple patents and inaugural achievements in their mechanics. As the independent brands were making such revolutionary statements and capturing the attention of watch collectors globally, some of the larger brands, like Hublot, Jacob & Co., Girard-Perregaux and even Jaeger-LeCoultre, jumped on the three-dimensional horological bandwagon, unveiling powerful architectural timepieces. In order to achieve their futuristic looks, many had to turn to nanotechnology for shaped movements and to special manufacturing processes for the curved and domed sapphire crystals that protect the movements inside. Many also turned to unconventional materials not typically found in the watch world. Richard Mille, for instance, works with high-tech North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT™) thanks to collaboration, and Hublot has its own research and development facility where it creates materials such as Magic Gold, colored ceramics and sapphire crystals in-house. Similarly, brands like IWC, Panerai and Omega are creating their own gold alloys that boast unique colors and are more scratch resistant.

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etr li at ve eler SUMMER 2021

This Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Blue Sapphire watch features a case made entirely in-house in the brand’s research and development laboratory. The high-tech movement, also made in-house, allows for 14 days of power reserve. $132,000. Available at Hublot, New York, hublot.com

The Patek Philippe Ref. 6301P Grande and Petite Sonnerie and Minute Repeater, with small jumping seconds complication in platinum, is the first chiming watch by the brand that has the gongs on the front of the watch. Price on request, patek.com

RACE FOR COMPLICATIONS

Don’t be fooled by all of the high-tech and high-mech going on in the new millennium. Traditional watchmaking has also been a guiding principle. Easily one of the most superb new complicated watches that just made its debut in April 2021 is from Jaeger-LeCoultre — the brand that has brought us a host of Gyrotourbillon watches over the past few years. The new Reverso Hybris Mechanica Quadriptyque houses the Caliber 185 movement — the result of six years of development — and has three patents on it. The watch is the world’s first wristwatch with four functioning display faces thanks to the iconic swivel case and holder. With its 11 complications and some new astronomical displays, the $1.35m watch has captivated watch lovers. Another brand that regularly excels in technical prowess is Vacheron Constantin, which has unveiled multiple original high complications in the past decade, including the most complicated pocket watch in the world, Ref 57260 with 57 complications — and the firm’s most complicated wristwatch with more than 1,000 parts. Similarly, Patek Philippe, which has always been neck and neck with Vacheron Constantin when it comes to developing the most complicated watches ever, has unveiled several important new watches in the past 20 years, including the Grandmaster Chime in 2014, a reversible watch with six patented innovations and 20 complications.

Above Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Caliber 185 Quadriptyque is the world’s first watch with four faces. It boasts 11 complications including minute repeater, perpetual calendar and complex celestial indications. $1.35m, jaeger-lecoultre.com Right This Greubel Forsey GMT Quadruple Tourbillon watch is crafted in titanium and houses a hand-wound movement with three patents. The incredibly complicated new watch is being made in a limited edition of just 11 pieces. $760,000, available at cellinijewelers.com Far right The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph is extremely advanced and one of the most complicated calibers to build; it is being offered in a 15-piece limited edition in platinum. $287,000, vacheron-constantin.com