Million Air November-December 2018

INFLUENCE CHAMPAGNE

RichardGeoffroy&VincentChaperon on taking risks AsRichardGeoffroy retires andVincent Chaperonbecomes the new chef de cave , they speak toKristenShirley about legacy, waiting for the rightmoment andhowthere is no more radical champagne thanDomPérignon

Sitting in a suite in New York City’s NoMad Hotel pouring a glass of 2008 Dom Pérignon, Richard Geoffroy seems too relaxed to be discussing his departure from the company where he has spent the past 28 years. As he hands me a glass of what he deems one of the best vintages ever produced, he explains his calm demeanor by saying the transition is a natural conclusion to a long partnership with Vincent Chaperon, the new chef de cave at Dom

up to the job.” Chaperon notes that while the vision never changes, the conditions always do, creating an interesting challenge. When asked about climate change and its effect on champagne, both men agree they are trying to find the advantages to the warming weather and use it as an opportunity to go further and evolve. Since they know where they want to go with each harvest, they find the necessary techniques to achieve it, whatever the conditions. “If you want one thing, you have to understand the consequences,” Chaperon says. “That’s why timing is everything. It can take years to understand the impact of one single move.” It’s this patience and understanding that show why Geoffroy chose Chaperon as his successor; they seem to be of the same mind and approach to wine making. For Geoffroy, there are three things the chef de cave must have. First, the technical wine-making ability, which Chaperon proved during 13 harvests together. Next, it’s the ability to achieve balance between the rational aspects of wine making and the creative elements, which Geoffroy describes as knowing which risks to take and finding the little bit of magic that can elevate a vintage. And finally, personality. “What was so important with Vincent is just a personality question, which at that level

Pérignon, and confessing that he’ll never be completely gone. While listening to the pair, who are so in tune that they frequently finish each other’s sentences, it is clear that the men have been working together for long enough that Geoffroy feels completely comfortable placing his legacy and the future of Dom Pérignon in Chaperon’s capable hands. Seamless is how Geoffroy describes the transition, saying he has “a sense of serenity and reassurance having Vincent

in the position.” And what a legacy he leaves. The seventh-generation winemaker is the house’s longest-serving chef de cave , and he has shaped the modern vision of what Dom Pérignon means. To him, it’s boldness and radicality. He’s made the bold choice to pick the fruit as late as possible in a long, four-week harvest, potentially putting the success of the year on the line; delayed the release of a vintage because it wasn’t quite ready (2009 was released before this year’s 2008); and continually took risks in his wine making, which he declares was “the greatest help to the brand,” because it kept it from becoming “overly established and complacent.” Complacency doesn’t seem to be a natural problem here. As each release is a vintage, there’s a continuous drive to push the house forward and create something new, rather than match the previous years. While the winemakers evolve with every harvest, they find a way to remain true to what they call the project of Dom Pérignon. Describing his approach to wine making, Geoffroy says “there’s always an element of the unknown, an element of surprise, sometimes. That’s the beauty, framework for the wine, then let it go. Both compare it to raising children, saying it’s not possible to control the wine (or kids) without losing something in the process. Geoffroy attributes the impulses of some winemakers who try to control wine to fear, but says “since we are dealing with the best grapes from the best vineyards in remarkable years, nothing can go wrong as long as you are that we’re not in total control of anything.” Together, they build a

is very important. It is humility, a sense of really caring. Wine is not about treating the ego of the

winemaker, as you see pretty often. Wine is meant to go to others. It’s like food. I pride myself in being able to see if the food is made by a happy chef, whether that chef is caring and giving to