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Bovet Amadeo Fleurier 43

generally remain in five-figure territory — is sometimes overlooked, but the venerable brand is represented in the super-premium market. “With half-million dollar Rolexes, you’re basically paying for the jewelry settings, which requires an enormous amount of skilled labor,” explains Adams. The “rainbow dial” alone, a bevel set with 36 sapphires of graduating shades, takes a full two weeks to set, and the diamond-studded Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona Rainbow can set you back $100,000. The most coveted watches on the market combine ancient techniques with innovation, such as the RM 50-03 McLaren F1 Split Seconds Tourbillon Chronograph. A partnership between Richard Mille and famed British automaker McLaren, the stunning watch is made mostly of high-tech materials borrowed from the automotive and aerospace industries. “It’s so light, you can barely feel it on your wrist,” says Adams of the timepiece that weighs just 1.4 ounces, but costs

$980,000. He says of its admirers, “It’s for the type of person who wants art on his wrist, but something that reflects his passion for automation.” Blue is a color that is currently “in” right now, but Adams reports vintage watches with blue dials do not age well. Now being employed is a multi-layer lacquering process, similar to the technique used on luxury automobiles, a labor-intensive procedure with no room for error. Bluing can also be achieved by heating steel or titanium, but must be done at precise temperatures for just the right amount of time, requir- ing a skilled hand. Today’s ultra-luxury watches — featuring pric- es that can exceed those of a Ferrari or Rolls-Royce — incorporate new technologies, but are primarily valued for their artisanal qualities. “These watches are for people who appreciate an obsessive level of effort put into perfecting this kind of refinement,” says Adams.

PHOTOS COURTESY BOVET

Bovet 1822 Amadeo Fleurier Monsieur Bovet Year of the Rooster Edition

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