Good Old Boat Issue 142: Jan/Feb 2022

hull-to-deck joint and various splotches revealing hull imperfections. Chris rolled the Awlgrip primer, and two days later, Avocet was completely off-white and only had to be sanded one more time before being ready for the final topcoat. The Supports First, though, we had to prepare for the installation of the bulwark supports. We had purchased nine 24-by-4-by-¼-inch- thick 316L stainless steel bars, which we then cut in half (it was cheaper to buy them at twice the length than to buy them at the actual length needed). After cutting them into 12-inch sections, Chris used an angle grinder with a 150-grit floppy disk to remove the matte finish left over from being cold-rolled in the manufacturing process. Next, we had to measure the degree for each L-bracket to be bent. Each was slightly different due to the deck’s curva- ture. To obtain precise measurements, we used two straight pieces of timber about

16 inches long, placed one on the deck and one along the hull, and then measured the bisecting point. This measurement would ensure that the bulwark would be following the sheer line of the hull itself. Then, we sent the measurements and the bases to a Southern California fabricator, Garhauer Marine, where a hydraulic press bent all 16 bases quickly and effortlessly. This sounds so much easier than it actually was, since dialing in

An L-bracket and stanchion base fully installed for the new bulwark configuration.

the degrees on a ¹ ₄-inch piece of stainless steel all comes down to the skill of the operator. Luckily, Doug Garhauer had over one million “hits” with this press, so we knew our metal was in experienced hands. While Garhauer had the L-brackets, Chris used a brass L-bracket template made from a prototype to recess the bulwark bases down into the deck. This way, they would sit flush when mounted with the stanchion base on top, giving a more “factory” appearance. Chris placed the template at every stanchion base location as a guide and used a router to cut the ¹ ₄-inch-deep pockets into the deck. Once this process of cutting holes in our so carefully faired deck was finished, we could complete the topside painting. With the custom-shaped bases in hand, the next step was drilling out the holes to attach the stanchion bases. This also sounds easier than it was; for one thing, the stanchion bases had different hole patterns, so we would need to custom drill each one. Doug Garhauer had educated Chris on the proper technique for drilling through hard and thick material such as our stainless steel. It all comes down to using the proper tools—but not everyone can keep a drill press onboard! With Doug’s advice and our wonderful friend letting us borrow his drill press, Chris was able to drill the bases, as well as the four holes in each vertical where the bulwark boards would attach. Finally, it was time to attach the L-brackets and stanchions to the deck. We placed the stanchion bases on top of the bracket bases with a healthy amount of butyl tape between them, then placed more butyl tape on the bottom of the

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January/February 2022