FSR September 2022
All signs point to more restaurants on the way for One Off Hospitality , including multiple properties at the Bally’s casino. In the meantime, here’s its current roster. ONEOFF’S ONES TOWATCH Mediterranean-meets-Midwest eats in a cozy spot that’s become a neighborhood favorite VIOLET HOUR Wicker Park // EST. 2007 The city’s “first craft cocktail mecca,” per the Chicago Tribune THE PUBLICAN Fulton Market // EST. 2008 Part European beer hall, part farmhouse fare, part seafood joint BIG STAR Wicker Park // EST. 2009 Taqueria with craft cocktails and beer housed in a 1940s gas station PUBLICAN QUALITY MEATS Fulton Market // EST. 2012 Butcher shop plus gourmet market plus café DOVE’S LUNCHEONETTE Wicker Park // EST. 2014 Southern twist on Mexican cuisine with retro diner vibes AVEC (second location) River North // EST. 2021 A larger, brighter version of the original plus new menu items BAR AVEC River North // EST. 2021 Rooftop bar serving Iberian-inspired small plates and drinks PUBLICAN QUALITY BREAD West Town // EST. 2022 One Off’s long-time wholesale bakery turned consumer-facing operation AVEC West Loop // EST. 2003
Why would I give up on my city? I was born and raised here. [Browne] was born and raised here. Paul [Kahan] was born and raised here. We’ve got Terry [Alexander] who is fromOmaha, but he’s been living here since 1989. Nobody’s leaving.” This is good news for Chicago, which, like so many densely populated cities, has experienced widespread business clo sures and population contractions since the pandemic began. (The U.S. Census estimates 91,000 people left the greater Chi cago area between 2020 and 2021.) But the group’s dedication to the city goes beyond its stay put attitude. From the earliest days of Covid, One Off and other notable restaurant companies, like Boka Restaurant Group and Lettuce Entertain You, remained in contact with city leaders. At the request of the Illinois Restaurant Asso ciation, these groups shared their safety protocols and best practices, which the association then disseminated among leaders at the city and state levels. The restaurants’ stories—and struggles—not only helped informpolicies, they also provided a real-time account of what independent operators and other small businesses were facing. And ultimately, these lines of communication have opened the door to new opportunities for One Off. In April 2021, Chi cago put out a request for proposals to develop a casino. In total, it received five bids, two of which were submitted by Bally’s Corporation. Madia recalls that it was a competitive field, but ultimately Bally’s $1.8 billion proposal to develop the old Chicago Tribune publishing center won out. The plan included six restaurant concepts, a food hall, three bars and lounges, as well as additional foodservice outfits operating out of a rooftop green space. In the proposal, One Off Hospi tality was named as the exclusive hospitality partner. “That was very influenced, I believe, by the mayor [Lori Lightfoot] really believing in these guys and it being so Chi cago-centric. We’re doubling down in Chicago. It’s probably not the easiest, but I don’t know a more resilient city,” Browne says. “I don’t think there’s a bigger initiative in the city of Chi cago right now,” Madia adds. As of press time, plans were underway to open a tempo rary casino in the Medinah Temple, a 110-year-old Moorish Revival building in the Magnificent Mile corridor, while the permanent property is under construction. FULL SPEED AHEAD High-power deals could be part of the new normal for One Off Hospitality. Browne’s appointment in 2019 signaled a shift for the company. The five partners, Madia, Kahan, Terry Alexan der, Eduard Seitan, and Peter Garfield are all restaurant folks through and through. Browne, on the other hand, brought an entirely different skill set and perspective. “My background is human capital; it’s not the restaurant industry. But it’s interesting that when the difficulty occurred, I was well-suited for what happened—at least as well-suited as one can be,” she says. Indeed, Madia recounts an anecdote in which, prior to the
54 SEPTEMBER 2022
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