FSR November 2022

CHEF PROF I LE CHEFS & INGREDI ENT S

York to join the staff of Eric Ripert’s cel ebrated Le Bernardin. During his nearly seven-year tenure, Hsu honed his view point—applying classical French tech niques to a global arsenal of ingredients with a penchant for Asian cuisines. Like Betty, Ripert encouraged Hsu to nurture his creativity. Aching for a place of his own, but knowing the Atlanta market hadn’t historically embraced ultra fine dining, Hsu hosted a yearlong series of pop-ups before opening Lazy Betty in February 2019 with co-owner Aaron Phillips. Just four months later, Betty died following a short bout with cancer. “My mom died so unexpectedly; I never had a good good-bye,” Hsu says. He knew she was worried about the success of his business, but shortly after she passed, the accolades began rolling in. Lazy Betty was a nominee for the 2020 James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant and received similar “best new” nods from Atlanta magazine and Eater , among other publications. Lazy Betty centers around a six- and eight-course tasting menus for $160 and $200, respectively, but its name— winking at Betty’s notoriously unflap pable work ethic—sets a refreshingly laid-back tone. Take Lazy Betty’s caviar service. Irtysh River caviar is paired with crème fraîche, but instead of the stan dard blinis, chopped onion, and egg, the roe arrives with house-made Chinese style scallion pancakes and steamed milk buns. “I like to think of eating at Lazy Betty like if you had a rich uncle with a world class chef,” Hsu quips. “You go to his house where you’re served amazing food and on beautiful china and glassware, but your uncle is there so you can shoot the breeze with him.” Indeed, the restaurant’s mid-cen tury modern aesthetic (think: cognac colored leather seating and lacquered wood tables) are tempered by its indus trial space and lighter touches, like the peacock blue accents in the tiled bar backsplash and the upholstered benches. Long incensed by the tipped-wage structure, Hsu instituted a federal min

imumwage and a 20 percent service fee on customer checks. It took some con vincing among staff, though Lazy Betty has been rewarded with almost negli gible turnover, even despite the pan demic—which resulted in a prolonged closure that furloughed the whole staff. He’s still seeking a pay-structure solu tion at Juniper Cafe, which opened last December. (Currently the all-day cafe tacks on a 20 percent service fee to checks, though front-of-house staff gets the majority of it.) Juniper Cafe fulfills Hsu and Phil lips’ desire for something more casual, especially after both became fathers. e space exudes a relaxed yet playful atmo sphere, with pastel-hued paper lanterns overhead and pops of cerulean, robin’s egg, and other colors enlivening an oth erwise neutral palette. e increasingly pan-Asian and Southern menu leans on its Vietnamese-French roots on the bak ery side, via housemade bánh mì, lami nated pastries, and brioche. Like Lazy Betty, Juniper Cafe has been met with enthusiasm and fanfare. e restaurant was among Bon Appetit ’s 50 Best New Restaurants this year and earned a glowing review from Atlanta magazine, with veteran food critic Chris tiane Lauterbach calling Hsu “one of the best and most original chefs in the city.” Indeed, the enterprising Hsu con tinues to evolve while also empowering his chef team to take more creative con trol of day-to-day menus as he prepares Humble Pie for opening. The storefront will highlight local dairy producers in pies made from locally milled flour with nostalgic toppings like broccoli and farm-fresh cheddar or clam with clam juice dipping sauce. Pizza may seem like a sharp left turn, but Hsu genially replies, “Who doesn’t love pizza?” More importantly, he adds that it’s what his community needs right now. “Everyone is so on edge these days,” he says. “ is is a neighborhood restaurant where you can come, have good food and be treated well, and not get too carried away with what’s going on in the world.” It sounds like something Betty her self might say.

CHEF RON HSU

FAVORITE KITCHEN TOOL: Dumpling rolling pin

THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY IN A FEWWORDS: Helping and serving other people YOUR POST-SHIFT DRINK: Bourbon or whiskey with three or four ice cubes MOST UNDERRATED INGREDIENT: MSG CHEF YOU’D LOVE TOWORK WITH: My mom

ERIC SUN

LAZY BETTY SERVES FINE-DINING FARE LIKE GRILLED LOBSTER (CENTER) ALONGSIDE CRAFT LIBATIONS LIKE KNUCK IF YOU BUCK, WITH RYE, GIN, AND YOGURT (LEFT).

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FSRMAGAZINE .COM

NOVEMBER 2022