FSR May 2022

LIQUID INTELLIGENCE

time spent studying spirits is paramount. Given the knowledge and skill level required to mix on the fly, bartenders should have a working knowledge of classic cocktails, which can act as a base for other drinks. Mixologists must also be trained in the proper techniques, such as pouring and measuring. All in all, it’s

Thread runs a menu-free operation. The establishment is a speakeasy, and cus tomers usually have to make reserva tions to get into the dimly lit, tightly packed space, which is hidden within its sister restaurant, Tavern Law. The operation at Needle & Thread is similar to Attaboy; the concept lacks

kind of drink they want can be a little challenging, especially if it’s the first time they’ve been to a bar without a menu to help guide their decisions. “That’s probably the biggest struggle: getting people to accurately define fla vors,” he says. “So, we keep the flavor wheel with the verbs there, and we walk people through [the process].” Another challenge Steinberg encoun ters is ordering and stocking ingredients. In a bar without a set menu, knowing what and how much to keep on hand can get tricky. To ensure the bar’s profitability, he keeps a close eye on weekly liquor costs and communicates with bartenders about specifics, like how much char treuse can be used in a single drink, and if it’s even necessary. Another way to keep costs lower is to “make your flavor,” as Steinberg puts it, by creating flavored gins, vodkas, and simple syrups in-house. “Fresh ingredients always taste better than the bottled ones,” he says. Although cocktail bars like Attaboy and Needle & Thread have been more common in larger cities, both Steinberg and Bramhall believe such operations could be replicated in smaller markets. Ultimately, it all depends on the custom ers and how adventurous they’re will ing to be. “I think we can go anywhere,” Bram hall says. “I think you just have to know how much you can pull off in your mar ket. You have to read what the demo graphic is.” He notes that areas with profession als and families who like to eat out would probably do better than rural markets. And consumer curiosity can be further stoked by the bartenders themselves. Employees who undergo such intensive training tend to be passionate about the art of cocktails—and that enthusiasm can be contagious. “People really love the idea of hav ing a cocktail that’s just been created for them,” Steinberg says. “And the bar tenders take even more pride in what they do because they’re not regurgitat ing somebody else’s idea—they’re pre senting their own.”

“People really love the idea of having a cocktail that’s just been created for them. And the bartenders take even more pride in what they do because they’re not regurgitating somebody else’s idea—they’re

presenting their own.”

ALEC BRETZLOFF

a time-intensive process to train staff at Attaboy. “It depends on the student, but I would say it averages around 60 hours, if not more,” he says. “The knowledge part goes a little further than that.” The 60 hours is usually broken into two to three-hour sessions. Assum ing six-hour shifts, that means it can take 20–30 shifts of additional train ing before bartenders are ready to start crafting personalized cocktails. Like Attaboy, Seattle’s Needle &

a menu, so bartenders should have an expansive working knowledge of classic cocktails and various liquors. Similarities aside, the two bars do vary in certain aspects. For one, Needle & Thread will make a guest vodka soda if they request it. The bar also keeps flavor wheels at its tables, which are designed to help customers articulate the sort of drink they’re seeking. Nathaniel Steinberg, director of oper ations at Needle & Thread, says getting customers to adequately describe the

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FSRMAGAZINE.COM

MAY 2022