FSR May 2022

NO. 101 FULL-SERVICE RESTAURANTS | THOUGHT LEADERSHIP FOR 10 YEARS

CHEETIE KUMAR: ROCK STAR CHEF TUPELO HONEY’S SWEET ASCENT

BURGERS AND BREWS HIRING FROM OVERLOOKED COMMUNITIES

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WHAT’S EATING ANDREW ZIMMERN? THE CHEF AND

WHY MENTAL HEALTH MATTERS

OPERATORS ARE STEPPING UP EFFORTS TO PRIORITIZE EMPLOYEE WELL-BEING FINANCING FULL SERVICE HOW TO GROW YOUR BRAND IN THE POST PANDEMIC ERA

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CONTENTS

FSR May 2022 No. 101

36 Andrew Zimmern Takes on the World Never one to shy away from compli cated topics, the chef and TV per sonality is digging even deeper into the most pressing challenges facing the food sector—and he’s encour aging others to join the cause. 48 Fiscal State Scaling a restaurant has always been more complicated for full-ser vice concepts than quick serves, but the pandemic exacerbated those difficulties, leading growing brands to get creative. 56 Spotlight on Mental Health As more people open up about mental health and well-being, a number of restaurants and partner organizations are actively working to bring special services and sup port to their employees. Chef, restaurateur, and on-the-side musician Cheetie Kumar is putting Raleigh, North Carolina, on the dining map, and at press time, she’s up for a James Beard Award. 24 Building a Better Burger Fast food has long dominated the burger category, but full service has more latitude to push culinary trends—and to serve adult bever ages alongside its burgers. CHEFS & INGREDIENTS 17 The Rock Star Chef

36 ANDREW

ZIMMERN’S NEW SHOW EXPLORES BIG ISSUES, LIKE CLIMATE CHANGE AND AGRICULTURE.

48

MSNBC / FIRST WATCH

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CONTENTS

FSRmagazine.com May2022 No.101

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EDITORIAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Danny Klein Danny@FSRmagazine.com EDITOR Nicole Duncan Nicole@FSRmagazine.com CONTENT EDITOR Ben Coley Ben@FSRmagazine.com STAFF WRITER Trevor Griner Trevor@FSRmagazine.com DIRECTOR OF CUSTOM CONTENT Peggy Carouthers Peggy@FSRmagazine.com CUSTOM CONTENT ASSOCIATE EDITORS Charlie Pogacar Charlie@FSRmagazine.com Kara Phelps Kara@FSRmagazine.com

ADMINISTRATION Journalistic, Inc. 101 Europa Drive, Suite 150 Chapel Hill, NC 27517 GROUP PUBLISHER FOOD NEWS MEDIA Greg Sanders Greg@FoodNewsMedia.com

PRESIDENT Webb C. Howell

69

IT MANAGER Jason Purdy Jason@Journalistic.com WEB DEVELOPER Trey Daniels Trey@Journalistic.com

TUPELO HONEY SOUTHERN KITCHEN & BAR / THE ART ROOM

FIRST COURSE 9 Show Must Go On Three years after its last gathering, the National Res taurant Association Show returns to Chicago. 10 Late-Night Noshing A new report reveals which markets have restaurants that stay open the latest. LIQUID INTELLIGENCE 29 Mixology Minus the Menu Wine is the latest libation to receive the nonalcoholic treatment, but unlike zero proof cocktails and beer, its RQRWNCTKV[ CPF RTQƂ VCDKNKV[ within the restaurant setting are still largely unknown.

lina, Tupelo Honey is now tar geting markets where dishes, such as fried green tomatoes CPF EJKEMGP CPF YCHƃ GU CTG novelty items. 69 The Art of Doing Good PERSPECTIVES At his new res taurant, The Art Room, chef D. Brandon Walker hires from traditionally overlooked com munities, including people who were formerly incarcer ated and those who face housing insecurity. 72 Start Me Up After closing Cho77 last July, Denver-based ChoLon Res taurant Concepts decided to create a fresh concept within the same space. ALSO IN THIS ISSUE 4 Highlights from FSRmagazine.com 4 Brand Stories in Print and Online

ACCOUNTING ASSOCIATE Carole Ogan Carole@Journalistic.com

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BACK OF HOUSE 67 The Self Expression Chain

FOLIO: Eddie Awards 2021 BEST PROFILE FEATURE 2017 BEST FULL ISSUE FOOD & BEVERAGE 2013 BEST DESIGN, NEW MAGAZINE 2013 BEST FULL ISSUE, FOOD SERVICE/HOTEL

6 Editor’s Welcome 71 Advertising Index

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FSR is a trademark of Journalistic, Inc. and the content of this magazine is copyright © 2022 Journalistic, Inc. All rights reserved. Printed in USA. The opinions of columnists are their own. Publication of their writing does not imply endorsement by Journalistic, Inc. FSR magazine (ISSN 2325-2154) is published monthly by Journalistic, Inc., 101 Europa Drive, Suite 150, Chapel Hill, NC 27517-2380. Periodicals postage paid at Chapel Hill, NC, and at additional entry points. SUBSCRIPTIONS: (800) 662-4834, FSRmagazine.com/subscribe. FSR is provided without charge upon request to individuals residing in the U.S. meeting subscription criteria as set forth by the publisher. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FSR , 101 Europa Drive, Suite 150, Chapel Hill, NC 27517-2380. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any fashion without the expressed written consent of Journalistic, Inc.

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FSRMAGAZINE.COM THE MOST POPULAR STORIES ON OUR WEBSITE, OR WHAT YOUR PEERS ARE READING Online

TGI FRIDAYS PAYS MANAGERS TO GO ON VACATION The casual-dining leader is pay ing general managers $2,500 to cover lodging, meals, and other travel-related expenses. FSRmagazine.com/ TGIF-Manager-Vacation FUSION STEAKHOUSE TO PAY $1.45 MILLION FOR LABOR VIOLATIONS A federal court ruled in favor of restaurant employees who were denied overtime pay across three different locations. FSRmagazine.com/ Fusion-Steakhouse-Violations BUFFALO WILD WINGS INTRODUCES NEW LEADERSHIP PROGRAM The LEAD program, which stands for learn, experience, assess, develop, serves as a tool to retain staff. FSRmagazine.com/BWW-Leadership

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22 On the Menu Good Times All Natural Burgers & Frozen Custard’s Octoberfest Burger LTO. SPONSORED BY BEL BRANDS USA 26 Your POS Should Do More Than Transact This commerce platform is helping restaurants grow sales by three-to four times the industry average. SPONSORED BY LIGHTSPEED 34 When Global Flavors Meet a Labor Solution, Diners and Operators Both Win Heat-and-serve on-trend menu items can satisfy customer crav

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Welcome

A Meeting of Minds AT THE TIME OF THIS WRITING, the National Restaurant Association Show is a mere six weeks away. That might sound far enough, but as the past few months have demonstrated, time flies when the world emerges from COVID. Or as Denver restaurateur Christopher Davis-Massey ( PAGE 72 ) articulated, “It just really does seem like a light switch [flipped] in the last few months.” Indeed, it doesn’t feel like a full three years since I entered the always-freezing halls of McCormick Place in Chicago. As any foodservice professional worth their salt will tell you, the hos pitality world is about human connection. The value of conferences and in-person gatherings aren’t quantifiable, but they’re just as vital. I can’t pos sibly list the number of story ideas, source leads, and industry contacts— not to mention, Buyer’s Guide products—I’ve accumulated over the years. Ultimately, the show and other events like it make me better at my job. And it’s the same for so many foodservice professionals, from chefs and restaurant operators to equipment vendors and third-party collaborators. They meet peers, connect with potential business partners, mine resources, and walk away with fresh ideas of their own. In light of recent events, there’s no shortage of topics worth exploring. Just ask this month’s cover star, Andrew Zimmern ( PAGE 36 ). The chef has a long, well-televised career of asking questions. He’s putting that skill to use with a slew of new projects, while also considering the long-term viability of restaurants. Zimmern worries consumers’ myopic understand ing of the real cost of operating a restaurant will shear the industry over the next few decades. It’s likely investors and banks sense this vulnerabil ity, too. Restaurants were never a surefire investment, but now lenders are even more hesitant, meaning most operators will have to scrounge up the majority of the capital themselves ( PAGE 48 ). In the face of such challenges, it’s more important than ever for res taurants to take care of their people. One silver lining of COVID is that it opened the door to more honest conversations around health, both physi cal and mental. Restaurant groups and organizations like Bonanno Con cepts and Ben’s Friends are taking the lead in prioritizing workers’ mental health ( PAGE 56 ). Intrinsic value aside, these programs are also good for a business, aiding in both productivity, overall job satisfaction, and retention. I was pleased to see that the NRA Show has multiple sessions on the topic, including one with Ben’s Friends. As for the rest of the programming, we’ve put together a brief overview ( PAGE 9 ), but our sister magazine, QSR , has a more detailed preview in its May issue, so be sure to check it out. Also, pop by BOOTH #5309 to say hi to our team. We can chat about some of the big-picture issues if you’re so inclined. After all, it’s through these connections that we find solutions. See you at the show!

Nicole@FSRmagazine.com FSRmag @FSRmagazine

On the Cover This month’s cover featuring Andrew Zimmern was shot by Madeleine Hill . For more than a decade, Hill has worked at Minneapolis-based Food Works, Inc., a production company that Zimmern him self founded in the late ’90s. Hill, who comes from a journalism background, has done everything from content cre ation and project management to pho tography. For more on Food Works, visit andrewzimmern.com.

NICOLE: LIBBY M C GOWAN / COVER: MADELEINE HILL / ADOBE STOCK

Nicole Duncan EDITOR

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First Course

Thousands of foodservice professionals will descend on McCormick Place later this month.

M C CORMICK PLACE CHICAGO

The Show Must Go On BY NICOLE DUNCAN

gearing up to welcome restaurant oper ators, chefs, vendors, consultants, and other industry professionals back for the four-day event later this month. Following the usual mix of interac tive workshops, cooking demonstrations, and education sessions, this year’s pro

FOLLOWING A THREE-YEAR HIATUS, the National Restaurant Association Show is back in action at the McCormick Place Conven tion Center in Chicago. The annual con ference, which celebrated its 100th anni versary in 2019, was forced to cancel twice in light of the coronavirus. Now it’s

After two years of cancellations, the industry’s biggest conference returns to Chicago.

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First Course

gramming focuses on pressing—and unprecedented—issues that restau rants have been grappling with since 2020. Prominent themes on the docket include virtual brands, retention strate gies, and supply chain solutions. Other topics that were popular pre-pandemic, like plant-based foods, sustainability, and technology within the dining room, also crop up a number of times. Futuristic thinking is another throughline of this year’s show. Keynote speaker Alexis Ohanian, best known for cofounding online news aggrega tor and community forum Reddit, will address disruption in foodservice and how restaurants can take a proactive stance as cryptocurrency, blockchain technology, and other outside forces rewrite the restaurant landscape. The speaker roster features cele brated chefs like Andrew Zimmern (more on page 36 ), Rick Bayless, Tif fany Derry, and Lamar Moore, as well as executives like Union Square Hospital ity Group president Chip Wade and P.F. Chang's CMO Tana Davila. In both 2020 and 2021, the NRA Show was one of the last holdouts to cancel its McCormick conference, doing so in late February—nearly two months after Illinois governor J.B. Pritzker extended capacity restrictions through early June. The association has projected the show to amass some 44,000 attend ees and 2,000 exhibitors, but as of mid April, its website listed a little more than 1,700 exhibitors. The estimates are also lower than the 2019 show, which featured 42,500 attendees and 2,300 exhibitors, per Trade Show News Net work. Furthermore, of the 120 sessions on the schedule, 20 were still missing EQPƂ TOGF URGCMGTU CPF VJGOGU But given the state of things, even if the numbers fall short, the fact the show is continuing its century-long run is a heartening sign for the indus try. Throughout the pandemic, restau rant professionals have reiterated time and again how important face-to-face interactions with guests are—the same clearly holds true for in-person events.

Late-Night Noshing New York may be the city that never sleeps, but Las Vegas nabs the title for “city that never stops eating.” A study by consumer products review site SimpleGhar calculated average restaurant closing times across 78 international cities, and while Athens restaurants stay open the latest, Las Vegas is tied with Cairo for the second spot . Two more U.S. cities, New York and Los Angeles, also made the top 10.

Average restaurant closing time:

LAS VEGAS 11:35 P . M .

NEW YORK 11:10 P . M .

LOS ANGELES 11:02 P . M .

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First Course

Global concerns around climate change have industries of all stripes reevaluating their best practices and exploring more sustainable systems. For foodservice, part of the solution relies on another, intercon nected industry: agriculture. According to market data firm Spoonshot , business interest in regenerative farming grew by 138 percent between 2019 and 2021 . Regenerative agriculture uses sustain able techniques, such as applying compos ted material to soil, recycling farm waste, and minimizing tillage. The end result boosts biodiversity, leads to more soil regeneration, and makes crops more resil ient to extreme weather. Major companies including Unilever have already pledged to incorporate these practices, meaning restaurants could soon benefit from the fruits of their labors. Greener Pastures

Employees of Color Exit Restaurants

THE PAST TWO YEARS HAVE BEEN GRUELING for all restaurant workers, but new data from One Fair Wage suggests the period has been espe cially difficult for people of color. The nonprofit group, which advocates for workers’ wages, found that during the pandemic,

Black tipped employees left restaurants at three times the rate of their white coun terparts . Additional insights from One Fair Wage point to one possible reason for this exodus; 88 percent of Black workers reported a decrease in tips since COVID began, compared to 78 percent of white workers.

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Idahoan. “That mouthfeel and that taste is what Honest Earth provides. You can actu ally feel and taste the texture of the potato. You get a ‘fresh potato’ presence without the labor and without the waste. And even when you open up a package of one of our Honest Earth products and pour it out dry, it’s recognizable. It looks purely like potato that has been cooked and dried.” Honest Earth offers Creamy Mashed Potatoes, Rustic Mashed Potatoes, and Hash Brown Shredded Potatoes to help operators replicate the potato recipes their customers prefer—and to create new menu items. Made without sulfites, preser vatives, artificial flavors, or artificial colors, Honest Earth products are plant-based and allow operators to embrace the “bet ter-for-you” trend. According to the National Restaurant Association’s 2022 What’s Hot Culinary Forecast, plant-based options rank among the top five trends—along with sustainabil ity. Idahoan and Honest Earth are commit ted to sustainable practices. From repur posing food waste on the farm to reducing water consumption and air pollutants throughout their operations, Idahoan works to adhere to the “reduce-reuse-recycle” credo. The company has also tasked itself with reducing greenhouse gas emissions. “Think about shipping a truck full of our Honest Earth product right from our ware house in Idaho Falls to any given point across the country, versus shipping a fro zen or fresh product,” says Dennis Leikam, senior manager of environmental health and safety at Idahoan. “Companies ship ping frozen or fresh potatoes are ship ping about 80 percent water, because that’s the water content of potatoes. But Honest Earth potatoes are fresh-dried, so they take up 80 percent less space on the truck. We can be seven times more effi cient in transportation when compared to shipping raw potatoes. That means fewer trucks on the road and reduced CO 2 emis sions. There are just so many benefits along the way.” TO LEARN MORE, VISIT HONESTEARTHFOODSERVICE.COM

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THE SEARCH FOR BETTER-FOR-YOU, SUSTAINABLE SPEED-SCRATCH ALTERNATIVES BY KARA PHELPS

Operators need low-labor menu options that are high-quality and satisfy the customer appetite for culinary trends.

complexity of the problem. Every ingre dient counts, and every ingredient has to measure up. How can operators even begin to source options that have to tick so many boxes? Potatoes, for example, are a versatile mainstay—but fresh potatoes have a rel atively short shelf life and are labor-inten sive to prepare, even if they’re purchased already peeled. Idahoan recently introduced a line of speed-scratch, clean-label sides called Honest Earth ® to tackle these challenges for operators. Honest Earth uses a special ized cooking method to prepare their Fresh Dried ™ potatoes, which ensures they main tain the look and taste of fresh potatoes. “Imagine a traditional baked potato with a nice crusty outside, and you open it up and the insides are white and fluffy,” says Richard Hoelzel, corporate chef at

As the labor crunch and supply chain woes continue, it makes sense that restaurant operators are turning to speed-scratch ingredients to be the workhorses of their menus. Customer expectations for the din ing experience are soaring, and opera tors still need to minimize labor for back-of house staff. While low-labor prepared options are certainly convenient, chefs may struggle to find products that truly rival the qual ity of fresh ingredients. Adding culinary trends to the equation only increases the

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Chefs & Ingredients

CULINARY INSPIRATION AND STORIES FROM INDUSTRY TRAILBLAZERS MENTIONED IN THIS SECTION GARLAND • • • B RESTAURANTS • • •

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DISHES LIKE THE WHIPPED TOOR DAL EXEMPLIFY GARLAND’S BLEND OF SOUTH ASIAN AND SOUTHERN FLAVORS.

Rock Star CHEF THE

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IT’S NO UNDERSTATEMENT to say that Cheetie Kumar wears many hats. Along with being a restaurant owner and chef, she is also a self-taught musician, for mer band manager, and advocate for her peers in the restaurant industry. Kumar’s journey to the kitchen wasn’t dotted with the usual stops at culi nary school or prestigious restaurants. Instead, she carved a fresh path and has since found success running her own kitchen—and business—at Garland,

BY TREVOR GRINER Whether on the stage or in the kitchen, chef Cheetie Kumar always takes the creative route.

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CHEFS & INGREDIENTS CHEF PROFILE

an elevated yet bohemian restaurant in downtown Raleigh, North Carolina. Mingling flavors and ingredients from India and the American South, Garland has landed Kumar on the shorthand list for a James Beard Award multiple times. At press time, she was once again in the running for Best Chef: Southeast. So, how did Kumar move from band manager and rock musician to restaura teur and chef? “I’m not really sure,” she says with a laugh. “Sometimes I ask myself, ‘How did this happen?’” Kumar spent the first eight years of her life in Chandigarh, a small town out side of Punjab in India. Memories of the local markets in her hometown would stay with her for years and eventually serve as a source of creative inspiration. When the family first immigrated to New York City, Kumar found comfort in her mother’s cooking, which, she says,

could turn the most basic ingredients into something special. Still, the restaurant world wasn’t on her radar as a career prospect. Instead, her family encouraged her to continue her education and attend college. “My parents wanted me to be in academia, like most Indian parents who are immi grants do,” she says. At the University of Massachusetts, Kumar studied psychology but found a second home at the campus radio station. “Psychology was really a compromise for my parents. Music was always the thing that inspired me,” she says. “I spent much more time at the station than I did my classes.” That passion launched Kumar into a music career. Rather than return to New York to work at a big record company, she moved to Raleigh to work as a band man ager. The quieter indie music scene was much more appealing to her than the

crowded cities up north. After her tenure as a band manager fizzled out, she took to the spotlight her self, playing guitar in a touring band. For some years, she split her time between playing shows, making records, and trav eling the American South. But playing in an indie band wasn’t a particularly lucra tive profession, and Kumar needed to bring in some extra income. To do this, she started bartending and taking on small catering gigs on the side. “I’d always cooked,” she says. “I’d reg ularly have dinner parties that were way too big for my house.” The nexus between cooking and music has always been clear for Kumar, who says her time as a musician influenced her life in the kitchen. Both vocations require collaboration to create some thing, whether it’s a menu or a song. Plus, they demand a certain level of dedication. “So much of it is actually just disci

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GARLAND

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pline and practice,” she says. “You go through the highs and the lows, trying to not take either too seriously.” When she wasn’t working, Kumar spent her free time on tour obsessively reading cookbooks. Revered tomes like Jacques Pépin’s La Technique helped her develop an understanding of food in place of traditional instruction. “I really loved Deborah Madison’s Veg etarian Cooking for Everyone ,” she says.

lina trout is a prime example of Kumar’s affinity for local ingredients brought to life with international flavors. The crispy fish entrée is paired with a fennel-apple cabbage Desi slaw, paanch phoran (a spice blend), confit tomato, cilantro, dill, red onion, and lime. Cooking is only part of Kumar’s work these days. The rock star–turned–chef has also been busy advocating for restau rants. She sits on several boards, includ

“The way she approached vegetables and legumes gave me a lot of explanation on the roles of ingredients.” Along with insight, Kumar’s voracious appetite for cookbooks instilled a curiosity around the history of food. She noticed culi nary parallels between her hometown and the Ameri

ing the Independent Restau rant Solution, where she has worked to secure grants and other funding so indepen dent restaurants can keep their doors open through out the pandemic. She says the driving fac tor behind her advocacy work is a belief that every one in the industry is fac

“It’s not easy to be a chef anywhere, but it is easy to be inspired here.”

can South, not only in their respective abundance of fresh produce and markets, but also how they’ve changed over time. “I started thinking about the history of people moving and traveling and immi grating and how the food evolved from there,” she says. “I was inspired by it. … I think that’s why I felt so connected here.” Armed with knowledge and a new found curiosity, Kumar and her husband decided to make the leap. The brick-and mortar Garland opened in 2014 after briefly operating as a walk-up window the previous fall. The restaurant spe cializes in blending flavors from across Asia, particularly the Indian subconti nent, and applying them to the plethora of local ingredients sourced from North Carolina’s many farms. At first, she says, it was hard to describe the type of cuisine the restau rant served, but now she simply tells peo ple that she “cooks what she likes, and it’s coming from the farm.” The availability of local meats and produce, like purple-top turnips, mus tard greens, and eggplants, reminded her of the markets in her hometown. It was also one of the reasons she fell in love with Raleigh. “It was access to the farm ers that made it make sense,” she says. Garland’s whole-fried North Caro

ing similar challenges. Working together as a united front is more likely to elicit change than solitary efforts. “If you think you’re doing this all alone, you aren’t seeing the whole pic ture,” she says. “We are all interdepen dent on each other, 100 percent.” The camaraderie in the Raleigh cook ing scene is something Kumar greatly appreciates. It’s also why she thinks Raleigh and the surrounding areas are great places for chefs looking to set up shop—not to mention the bevy of locally sourced ingredients. “If you look at the [James] Beard list from the last several years, it’s domi nated by chefs from North Carolina,” she says. “It’s not easy to be a chef any where, but it is easy to be inspired here.” Kumar has several projects in the works, including product launches and a “small, new concept,” but for now, she’s keeping those details close to the chest. In the meantime, she would like to find time to pick up her guitar again and maybe even go on a few trips. Work at the restaurant has been grueling over the last few years that she’s had hardly any time to do anything else. “I’m just dying to have some more time to play music and hopefully travel,” she says.

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Octoberfest Burger ( LTO ) FEATURING : Merkts® Craft Beer Cheese Spread RESTAURANT : Good Times Burgers & Frozen Custard

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On the Menu GOOD TIMES All Natural Burgers & Frozen Custard, a 31-unit chain based in Denver, Colorado, prides itself on offering elevated fast food. The beloved regional brand aims to Beer Cheese Spread, and stone ground mustard on a pretzel bun. Nedwell reports that the LTO has been a hit for several years in a row, due in part to the authenticity offered by the Merkts flavor profile. “The Merkts Craft Beer Cheese

parent company of Merkts Craft Beer Cheese Spread, has been a refreshing one. The vendor partner promotes the Octoberfest Burger on its social channels each fall, helping Good Times All Natural Burgers & Frozen Custard bolster

source high-quality, trendy ingre dients in order to offer innovative and exciting menu items. “We tend to look upwards (to the full-service industry) when we are finding inspiration rather than looking at what our rivals are doing,” says Amy Nedwell, director of marketing at Good Times Res taurants, Inc. “Our customer pays a little more here, because they expect something a little more here. That means we’re looking for higher quality ingredients—what ever we can do to get the word out and be a unique and exciting brand in this space.” That playbook inspired a fall LTO, the Octoberfest Burger, made with the Good Times signature all natural beef patty, Merkts Craft

“Merkts has a great authentic beer flavor that interacts so well with the stone-ground mustard and pretzel bun.”

its own social media presence. “It’s not often that we use a unique ingredient that has its own following and a very good social media presence,” Nedwell says. “It’s even less often that we can go to the vendor and say, ‘Hey, do you want to promote this on your social channels?’ and they say, ‘Absolutely.’ That’s been a really cool relationship to have.” BY CHARLIE POGACAR

tie-in is what makes it the Octo berfest burger,” Nedwell says. “Merkts has a great beer flavor that interacts so well with the stone ground mustard and pretzel bun. It’s not often that we bring in three separate SKUs for a single LTO, but this is worth it to us since so many people will come out specifically to have this burger.” Nedwell also mentions that her relationship with Bel Brands USA,

For more on Merkts menu inspiration, visit belbrandsfoodservice.com

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CHEFS & INGREDIENTS NOW SERVING

Building a Better Burger

BY NICOLE DUNCAN Full-service restaurants up the burger ante on quality—and often pair well with boozy beverages.

WHETHER SIMPLE, LIKE B RESTAURANTS’ TAVERN CLASSIC (LEFT), OR OVER THE TOP, LIKE BLACK TAP’S REUBEN BURGER (RIGHT), CASUAL DINING HAS AN EDGE OVER FAST FOOD.

LOCALS 8 RESTAURANT GROUP / BLACK TAP CRAFT BURGERS & BEER

SO OFTEN, the discussion around burger-centric restaurants defaults to fast-food giants and better-burger fast casuals. It makes sense given the girth of brands like McDonald’s and the enthu siastic, cult-like following behind the likes of In-N-Out Burger and Shake Shack. Even in 2020, when the chicken sandwich wars started to heat up, burger orders comprised 13.5 percent of all res taurant orders—double chicken sand wiches’ 6.7 percent market share, per the NPD Group.

But full-service restaurants, from casual chains geared toward families all the way up to fine-dining institutions, put their own spin on what can be con sidered America’s favorite entrée. And consumers have demonstrated an appe tite for these upgraded options. “We love burgers and want to enjoy eating them in a polished environment,” says Al Gamble, founder and co-owner of Locals 8, a Connecticut-based restaurant group that includes nine-unit, burger focused b Restaurants. “There weren’t

a lot of options back in 2005 when we launched the b’s concept. ... We believed we could deliver a full-service experience where the guest would taste the quality and be treated to a fun, relaxing time out, and it took off.” In terms of brand positioning and specialization, Red Robin is the largest full-service burger brand, with more than 500 locations across the U.S. and 30-plus signature burgers on the menu. But the lion’s share of full-service res taurants that put burgers front and cen

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NOW SERVING CHEFS & INGREDIENTS

ter are either independents or micro chains like b Restaurants. And thanks to smaller footprints, these concepts have an easier time flexing their creative mus cles. They can also spend a little longer preparing the burgers, prioritizing qual ity over speed of service. “Freshness is the foundation and our brand anchor as we develop new flavors. We wet-age our chucks for 30 days and

also introduces limited-time offers, which Gamble says, “celebrate season ality and holidays while staying in our lane.” One such offering, the New Eng lander burger, is topped with pulled lob ster meat, cream-corn spread, and let tuce chiffonade and served with a side of Old Bay fries. Another, the PB&J Burger, is made with maple-bourbon-bacon jam, bacon, local cheese, and a peanut but ter spread. New York–based Black

“Instead of just using faux-based meat, we used plant-based ingredients to cre ate a flavor-packed burger,” Parker says. “I think using real, plant-based ingredi ents is difficult but rewarding. The end result always tastes indulgent, but [it’s] good for you.” Pushing the culinary envelope often extends beyond what’s in between two buns. While fries and soda are the default accompaniment at fast-food joints, full-service restaurants can up the ante, especially on the beverage side. “We were founded on craft beer,” Parker says. “Craft beer is the DNA of our brand.” It’s also in the very name, which refers to the black-tap handles at craft breweries. To that end, Black Tap serves classics, limited-edition brews, and sea sonal beers from local micro-breweries. Its milkshakes—which Parker describes as “over-the-top”—are another iconic menu offering. Indeed, Black Tap’s social media feeds often feature an indulgent burger beside a kaleidoscope shake. The micro-chain has three locations in New York, one in Las Vegas, one in Disneyland California, and nine inter national units. While Disney and Vegas have always served cocktails (includ ing alcoholic slushies at the latter), the home market only recently introduced mixed drinks, like the Charged Lemon ade—vodka, Japanese melon, lemon ade, and a sparkly blue Electricdust rim— and a Cola Old-Fashioned, with bourbon, cherry cola, bitters, and brandied cherry. “The cocktail program definitely con tinues to elevate the Black Tap brand and differentiate it from fast-casual spots. It makes it a great environment for after work drinks and friend get-togethers, as well as family outings,” Parker says. Alcohol is also a menu differentiator at b Restaurants, which train their staff to Cicerone standards. Gamble even has pairing suggestions. For the New Eng lander, he recommends an IPA. For the PB&J Burger, he suggests a bourbon laced White Russian. “Fresh ground beef pairs great with [alcohol], just like a steak does,” Gamble says. “Big, beefy flavor goes great with a craft beer, a glass of wine, or bourbon.”

Tap Craft Burger & Beer follows a similar strategy with its LTOs. For example, in March, it introduced a Reuben Burger with Swiss cheese, grilled corned beef, sauerkraut, sliced pickles, and special sauce just in time for St. Patrick’s Day. The brand has also exper imented with smashed burgers at its fast-casual pop-up Black Tap Singles & Doubles. Corporate exec utive chef Stephen Parker describes this style as the “traditional roadside burger,” whose smaller size is more conducive with off site consumption. Parker also keeps an eye on macro-level trends. One that’s top of mind is the movement toward plant-based and plant-for ward burgers. According to the NPD Group, 78 percent of plant-based meat occa sions happen at restau

grind fresh twice daily. This creates a steak flavor, and you can really taste the difference,” Gamble says. The menu always features permanent strongholds like the Breakfast Burger (bacon, cheddar, and fried egg, topped with maple aioli on a croissant bun), Blue Cheese Burger (topped with caramelized onions, blue cheese, and a bourbon-bar becue sauce), and the Philly Steak Burger (sliced steak, garlic mayo, mushrooms, and onions, with American cheese sauce). To mix things up, b Restaurants

rants versus only 22 percent at home. A possible reason for this preference, per the research firm, is that the flavorful end result at a restaurant is harder to replicate at home. Black Tap’s menu includes an Impos sible Burger, but it’s also exploring house-made options. In January, the brand offered a special Vegan Truffle Shroom Burger, featuring a black bean– and–mushroom patty, shallots, cremini mushrooms, plant-based Parmesan, and truffle porcini cream sauce.

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SPONSORED BY LIGHTSPEED

Your POS Should Do More Than Transact

This POS-turned-commerce platform is helping restaurants grow sales by three–four times the industry average. BY CHARLIE POGACAR

was a technical complexity that made the guest experience worse, and that was some thing Terrace Bay Hotel Owner and Operator Jarred Downs would not accept. As a result, Downs and his team sought out a new POS system that would seam lessly integrate with their property man agement system ( ƩƦƬ ) interface. What they HQGHG XS Ɠ QGLQJ ZDV /LJKWVSHHG D FRP merce platform that Downs believes will help him grow his business into the future. “The desired integration between our POS and PMS was the driving factor behind us making the switch, and we’ve been really SOHDVHG ZLWK WUDQVLWLRQLQJ WR /LJKWVSHHG Ő Downs says. “It’s user friendly and intuitive. Sometimes to get an integration you have to pivot to an inferior product, but this was a top of the line product and has all of the fea WXUHV ZH FRXOG SRVVLEO\ ZDQW Ő /LJKWVSHHG JRHV EH\RQG EHLQJ MXVW D cloud-based POS system that seamlessly integrates with other management systems, A year ago, guests at the Terrace Bay Hotel in Upper Michigan could not charge food and beverage from the hotel’s restaurant to their room. It

LIGHTSPEED

though it excels at that, too. The platform also automates tasks and offers key analyt ical insights into maximizing revenue. For H[DPSOH /LJKWVSHHG UHPHPEHUV FXVWRP ers and is able to help waitstaff upsell more effectively based on that information. “We can quickly see if servers are getting customers to add craft cocktails to 20 per cent of meals, for example, or selling a bot WOH RI ZLQH WR SHUFHQW RI WDEOHV Ő 'RZQV says. “Every restaurant has different priori WLHV DQG /LJKWVSHHG FDQ SURJUDP DURXQG those priorities, but for us that information is super valuable, and it helps us work with servers for them to get higher sales and thus PRUH WLSV Ő Another feature that Downs loves is Magic Quadrant reporting, where a graph’s X axis is how often the item brings a cus tomer back into the restaurant, and the Y axis is how much of a margin is achieved by selling the menu item. This has helped operators both streamline menus and also

design them to emphasize which items achieve the most revenue. These features—and many others—are the foundation of why a survey conducted E\ /LJKWVSHHG UHYHDOHG WKDW LWV FRPPHUFH platform helped operators like Downs grow same-store sales comps by between 55–70 percent in 2021, or about three–four times greater than the industry average. That JURZWK LVQōW MXVW QLFH WR KDYH DQ\ PRUHŋZLWK so many aspects of running a restaurant get ting more expensive, growing sales is even more important than it’s ever been. “The restaurant industry today, you have compressed margins, food costs have gone XS DQG VWDII FRVWV KDYH JRQH XS Ő VD\V 3HWHU Doughtery, general manager of hospitality DW /LJKWVSHHG ŏ:KDW WKDW PHDQV LV WKDW \RX can no longer be focused on tools that help

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Liquid Intelligence

TRENDS AND CREATIVE APPROACHES TO SPIRITS, WINE, AND BEER. MENTIONED IN THIS STORY ATTABOY • • • NEEDLE & THREAD

AT THE SEATTLE SPEAKEASY NEEDLE & THREAD, MIXOLOGISTS CREATE DRINKS ON THE FLY.

Mixology Minus the Menu

ALEC BRETZLOFF

RESTAURANT AND BAR OPERATORS are likely to invest no small amount of time in curating their beverage menus. After the selection is perfected, staff are then trained in mixing the signa ture libations as well as classics. But

what happens when those menus are removed from the equation? In a world where menus can now be accessed through various channels like QR codes and mobile apps, some establishments are bucking the trend

BY TREVOR GRINER Bars are ditching the cocktail list for a more personalized experience.

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LIQUID INTELLIGENCE

and opting for a menu-less operation, with the goal of creating a personal ized experience to match personalized drinks. While not a widespread trend, concepts, including those in second- and third-tier cities, are dipping their toes in this unusual operating model. For example, Nashville, Tennessee, now boasts the second location of Atta

drinks as mixers, and vodka is nowhere to be found. Bramhall says that’s because the bar wants to serve spirits that have distinctive flavors and characteristics associated with them—not liquors that require mixers and other ingredients to build character. “We’re not reinventing the wheel,” he says of the drinks Attaboy serves. “We’re

Secondly, Bramhall says drinks with too many ingredients take a long time to prepare, and that’s an issue for oper ations specializing in craft-made bever ages. Attaboy has a cap of six people per party and only seats around five-dozen individuals at any given time. This comes out to about one staff member for every 12–15 guests; bartenders are assigned to

“We’re not reinventing the wheel. We’re just trying to help that wheel turn DV HIƓFLHQWO\ as possible. We’re not the kind of program that is going to have nine ingredient drinks with three unique

DANIELLE ATKINS (2)

ATTABOY BEGAN IN NEW YORK, BUT ITS MENU-FREE MODEL IS PROVING EQUALLY POPULAR IN THE SMALLER MARKET OF NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE.

individual parties, rather than taking the first-come, first-serve approach. Bramhall adds that the limit of six people per party is intentionally low because ticket times at Attaboy run about two minutes per drink, and waiting more than 15 minutes for drinks is a surefire way to sour a patron’s experience. Guest education is another impor tant consideration in running a menu free bar program. Bramhall says it’s not uncommon for someone to order a Jack and Coke as a default. All staff must be well-versed in explaining Attaboy’s unique service model. “The approach is definitely gentle and patient,” he says, adding that it’s under standable people will order things they could get at most bars. “We wait for them to finish their thoughts because the last thing you want to do is jump down some body’s throat.” Although the Nashville cocktail bar has no required experience level, Bram hall says a passion for mixing drinks, a curiosity about the craft, and outside

infused syrups.”

boy, a cocktail bar that opened in New York a decade ago. The Music City out post, which debuted in 2017, is operated by managing partner Brandon Bramhall, who spent years working at the New York location before relocating to Tennessee. Bramhall says operating a beverage program without a menu is definitely not for the faint of heart, especially since it faces challenges the average restaurant or bar does not. But, he adds, the appeal of running a menu-free program comes from the desire to personalize and curate an experience for the guests that can’t be replicated elsewhere. Attaboy is stringent in other ways, too. It doesn’t stock sodas or energy

just trying to help that wheel turn as effi ciently as possible. We’re not the kind of program that is going to have nine-ingre dient drinks with three unique infused syrups.” For Bramhall, cocktails that are too complicated can take away from the cus tomer’s experience in multiple ways. To start, he says cocktails that are overly complicated can alienate guests because such drinks use too many ingredients they may not recognize. “A big thing for us is the simplicity and approachability of the drinks,” he says, adding that Attaboy avoids the “holier than thou” approach that can permeate the world of cocktails.

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GENUINE IDAHO ™ THE WORLD’S FINEST POTATOES ™

yellow IDAHO ® Potato Esquites Salad A twist on Mexican street food, fresh corn mixed ‰b|_ l-‹omm-bv;ķ 1oঞ f- 1_;;v;ķ Ѵbl; f†b1;ķ 1_bѴb powder and grilled Idaho ® Potatoes.

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O O O COM / S O

LIQUID INTELLIGENCE

time spent studying spirits is paramount. Given the knowledge and skill level required to mix on the fly, bartenders should have a working knowledge of classic cocktails, which can act as a base for other drinks. Mixologists must also be trained in the proper techniques, such as pouring and measuring. All in all, it’s

Thread runs a menu-free operation. The establishment is a speakeasy, and cus tomers usually have to make reserva tions to get into the dimly lit, tightly packed space, which is hidden within its sister restaurant, Tavern Law. The operation at Needle & Thread is similar to Attaboy; the concept lacks

kind of drink they want can be a little challenging, especially if it’s the first time they’ve been to a bar without a menu to help guide their decisions. “That’s probably the biggest struggle: getting people to accurately define fla vors,” he says. “So, we keep the flavor wheel with the verbs there, and we walk people through [the process].” Another challenge Steinberg encoun ters is ordering and stocking ingredients. In a bar without a set menu, knowing what and how much to keep on hand can get tricky. To ensure the bar’s profitability, he keeps a close eye on weekly liquor costs and communicates with bartenders about specifics, like how much char treuse can be used in a single drink, and if it’s even necessary. Another way to keep costs lower is to “make your flavor,” as Steinberg puts it, by creating flavored gins, vodkas, and simple syrups in-house. “Fresh ingredients always taste better than the bottled ones,” he says. Although cocktail bars like Attaboy and Needle & Thread have been more common in larger cities, both Steinberg and Bramhall believe such operations could be replicated in smaller markets. Ultimately, it all depends on the custom ers and how adventurous they’re will ing to be. “I think we can go anywhere,” Bram hall says. “I think you just have to know how much you can pull off in your mar ket. You have to read what the demo graphic is.” He notes that areas with profession als and families who like to eat out would probably do better than rural markets. And consumer curiosity can be further stoked by the bartenders themselves. Employees who undergo such intensive training tend to be passionate about the art of cocktails—and that enthusiasm can be contagious. “People really love the idea of hav ing a cocktail that’s just been created for them,” Steinberg says. “And the bar tenders take even more pride in what they do because they’re not regurgitat ing somebody else’s idea—they’re pre senting their own.”

“People really love the idea of having a cocktail that’s just been created for them. And the bartenders take even more pride in what they do because they’re not regurgitating somebody else’s idea—they’re

presenting their own.”

ALEC BRETZLOFF

a time-intensive process to train staff at Attaboy. “It depends on the student, but I would say it averages around 60 hours, if not more,” he says. “The knowledge part goes a little further than that.” The 60 hours is usually broken into two to three-hour sessions. Assum ing six-hour shifts, that means it can take 20–30 shifts of additional train ing before bartenders are ready to start crafting personalized cocktails. Like Attaboy, Seattle’s Needle &

a menu, so bartenders should have an expansive working knowledge of classic cocktails and various liquors. Similarities aside, the two bars do vary in certain aspects. For one, Needle & Thread will make a guest vodka soda if they request it. The bar also keeps flavor wheels at its tables, which are designed to help customers articulate the sort of drink they’re seeking. Nathaniel Steinberg, director of oper ations at Needle & Thread, says getting customers to adequately describe the

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