FSR December 2022
Animated publication
NO. 108 FULL-SERVICE RESTAURANTS | THOUGHT LEADERSHIP FOR 10 YEARS
ZEROING IN ON DESSERT
PICNIK’S REAL FOOD AND GOOD VIBES 18 TRENDS TO WIN THE NEW YEAR
PREPARING FOR AN UNCERTAIN ECONOMY
®
OUR ANNUAL BUYER’S GUIDE IS BACK WITH A FRESH ASSORTMENT OF THE LATEST AND GREATEST PRODUCTS 2023 READY FOR
PLUS HOW A MASTER MIXOLOGIST BUILT AN AWARD-WINNING LINE OF MIXERS
WHY GROWING BRANDS ARE CREATING BEVERAGE CENTRIC SPIN-OFFS RAISING BAR THE
BAR VEGAN’S MARTA EXPRESS COCKTAIL
OF SOD AND SEA c . 2022 MEDIUM : Idaho® russet, dashi, egg, kewpie mayo, applewood smoked bacon, wild blue shrimp, furikake, bonito flakes ARTIST : Chef Michael Boyer IdahoPotato.com/FSPRO
CONTENTS
FSR December2022 No. 108
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28 Best Buys In the market for new appliances, software, tools, or ingredients? Buyer’s Guide has you covered with 44 new, curated products. 34Master Recipe Award-winning restaurateur Shan non Healy shares the story behind his line of syrups—and why he’s selling to other restaurants. 42 Eighteen Trends for the NewYear We asked industry experts to gaze into the proverbial crystal ball for trends to expect in 2023. Here’s what they had to say. At Seabird, James Beard semifinal ist Dean Neff showcases his coastal roots in a historic building that’s quickly becoming a local haunt. 20 Keeping It Short and Sweet By focusing on a small selection of sweets rather than an expansive list, restaurants are yielding better returns with less waste. L IQUID INT EL L I GENCE 23 Embracing the Bar For growing brands, a beverage driven spin-off not only differenti ates it from competitors, it also captures an entirely new daypart. CHEFS & INGREDI ENT S 15 Following the Sea
ALLEY TWENTY SIX’S FRESH COCKTAIL MIXERS ARE AMONG THE TOP PICKS FOR THIS YEAR’S BUYER’S GUIDE.
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BAXTER MILLER / BAR VEGAN
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CONTENTS
FSRmagazine.com December2022 No.108
®
SAL E S & BUS I NE SS DE VE LOPMENT
ED I TOR I AL
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Danny Klein dklein@wtwhmedia.com EDITOR Nicole Duncan nduncan@wtwhmedia.com SENIOR EDITOR Ben Coley bcoley@wtwhmedia.com SENIOR EDITOR Callie Evergreen cevergreen@wtwhmedia.com DIRECTOR OF CUSTOM CONTENT Peggy Carouthers pcarouthers@wtwhmedia.com CUSTOM CONTENT ASSOCIATE EDITOR Charlie Pogacar cpogacar@wtwhmedia.com CUSTOM CONTENT ASSOCIATE EDITOR Kara Phelps kphelps@wtwhmedia.com ART DIRECTOR Erica Naftolowitz enaftolowitz@wtwhmedia.com PRODUCTION MANAGER Mitch Avery mavery@wtwhmedia.com CUS TOM MED I A S TUD I O PRODUC T I ON & DE S I GN
GROUP PUBLISHER Greg Sanders gsanders@wtwhmedia.com NATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR Eugene Drezner 919-945-0705 edrezner@wtwhmedia.com NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Amber Dobsovic 919-945-0712 adobsovic@wtwhmedia.com NATIONAL SALES MANAGER John Krueger 919-945-0728 jkrueger@wtwhmedia.com NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Edward Richards 919-945-0714 erichards@wtwhmedia.com ADMI N I S TR AT I ON 919-945-0704 www.fsrmagazine.com/subscribe FSR is provided without charge upon request to individuals residing in the U.S. who meet subscription criteria as set forth by the publisher. REPR I NT S THE YGS GROUP 800-290-5460 fax: 717-825-2150 fsrmagazine@theygsgroup.com Sponsored content in this magazine is provided to the represented company for a fee. Such content is written to be informational and non promotional. Comments welcomed at sponsoredcontent@ fsrmagazine.com. SALES SUPPORT AND DIRECTORY SALES Tracy Doubts 919-945-0704 tdoubts@wtwhmedia.com
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PICNIK / MJ GEENEY
F I RS T COURSE 9 The GM Advantage General managers can make or break a restaurant, and in a post-Covid job market, the value of strong GMs has never been more apparent. 10 Holiday Holdouts Overall, consumers are expected to curb their res taurant spending this month, but a few demographics might dine out even more. BACK OF HOUSE 57 A Restaurant of One’s Own PERSPECTIVES In the still male-dominated foodser vice sector, Source Collab is setting out to bring more women’s voices into the mix, beginning with its trio of female leaders. 59 Real Food, Good Vibes ON THE RISE Nine years after Picnik debuted in a reno vated shipping container, the
Austin, Texas, brand is set to bring its clean-eating ethos to new markets. 61 Ready for the New Year YOUR TAKE From optimizing budgets to negotiating with suppliers, these seven tips from Restaurant365 CEO Tony Smith can help opera tors prepare for whatever may come in 2023—includ ing a possible recession. 64 Start Me Up In Nashville, Tennessee, The Graduate Hotel pays homage to country superstar Dolly Parton through rooftop res taurant, White Limozeen. AL SO IN THI S I SSUE 4 Highlights from FSRmagazine.com 4 Brand Stories in Print and Online
LinkedIn.com/company/ FSR-magazine Instagram.com/FSRmagazine Facebook.com/FSRmag Twitter.com/FSRmag
2016 MAGAZINE OF THE YEAR TOP 10 AWARD 2015 MAGAZINE OF THE YEAR
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6 Editor’s Welcome 63 Advertising Index
FOLIO: Eddie Awards 2022 BEST FULL ISSUE HOSPITALITY 2022 BEST SPONSORED CONTENT 2021 BEST PROFILE FEATURE 2017 BEST FULL ISSUE FOOD & BEVERAGE 2013 BEST DESIGN, NEW MAGAZINE 2013 BEST FULL ISSUE, FOOD SERVICE/HOTEL
FSR is a registered trademark of WTWH Media, LLC. FSR is copyright © 2022 WTWH Media, LLC. All rights reserved. The opinions of columnists are their own. Publication of their writing does not imply endorsement by WTWH Media, LLC. Subscriptions 919-945-0704. www.fsrmagazine.com/subscribe. FSR is provided with out charge upon request to individuals residing in the U.S. meeting subscription criteria as set forth by the pub lisher. AAM member. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any fashion without the express written consent of WTWH Media, LLC. FSR (ISSN 2325-2154) is published monthly by WTWH Media, LLC, 1111 Superior Avenue Suite 2600, Cleveland, OH 44114. Periodicals postage paid at Cleveland, OH and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FSR, 101 Europa Drive, Suite 150, Chapel Hill, NC 27517-2380.
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FSRMAGAZINE.COM THE MOST POPULAR STORIES ON OUR WEBSITE, OR WHAT YOUR PEERS ARE READING Online
DENNY’S UNVEILS ROADMAP TO 24/7 OPERATIONS The breakfast chain is financially incentivizing operators to return to pre-Covid hours of operation. FSRmagazine.com/Dennys-All-Day APPLEBEE’S IN TIMES SQUARE GETS EVICTED Missed rent payments dating back to 2019 and totalling $7 mil lion led to an eviction for the long-time franchisee. FSRmagazine.com/ Applebees-Eviction THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY LEANS INTO ITS MASSIVE MENUS The brand views its expansive offerings as both a differentiator and a shield against inflation. FSRmagazine.com/Big-Menu
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Welcome
In the Cards LIKE MANY PEOPLE, I tried my hand at a new hobby during the pandemic. But while friends were baking their own sourdough and planting herb gardens, I began reading tarot cards. Say what you will, it’s a fun pastime— not to mention, one hell of a party trick. But early on, I learned one major misconception surrounding tarot; despite popular opinion, the cards aren’t meant to tell the future. Instead, they’re supposed to provide a snapshot of where you are and where the path ahead might lead. It’s a philosophy I find increasingly relevant in December, a time when new year’s predictions overrun my inbox. rough details and data, futur ists can extrapolate the most probable outcomes and trends. Oftentimes, their predictions are on the right track, but every now and then, a wild card enters the mix and sends all those informed hypotheses crashing down. (For reference, the pandemic would best be represented by the destructive tower card in tarot.) Assuming unforeseeable circumstances don’t barrel in à la 2020, this issue of FSR is packed with expert forecasts aplenty. For a roundup of new year’s predictions ranging from F&B and design to tech and workforce management, turn to PAGE 42 for 18 hot trends. Need tips to shore up your business in case 2023 brings a recession? Check out Restaurant365 founder Tony Smith’s best practices on PAGE 61 . Curious how a beverage-centric spin-off might benefit your brand? We’ve got you covered ( PAGE 23 ). And whether it’s smooth sailing or choppy seas ahead, our annual Buy er’s Guide ( PAGE 28 ) has the products and tools to make your business run stronger, smarter, and ultimately better. Because no matter what’s in store for foodservice, restaurants will play the cards they’re dealt with a deft hand—and we’ll be right there alongside you to help puzzle things out. Here’s to another year on the books. See you all in 2023!
Nicole@FSRmagazine.com FSRmag @FSRmagazine
Nicole Duncan ED I TOR
On the Cover This month’s cover features Bar Veg an’s Marta Express cocktail, made with Bumbu rum, coconut, pineapple juice, and lime juice. The beverage was shot by Madelynn Boykin , owner of Bites and Bevs, an Atlanta-based agency whose services include food photography and styling. She’s worked with restaurants like STK, Toast, and Slutty Vegan, as well as the Food Network and Maker’s Mark. To learn more about Boykin, visit bitesandbevsmedia.com or follow her on Instagram at @bitesandbevsmedia .
NICOLE: LIBBY M C GOWAN / COVER: MADELYNN BOYKIN
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FirstCourse
Restaurants offering bonuses to GMs are boosting their sales and foot traffic. TheGMAdvantage
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BY NICOLE DUNCAN How one role can make or break a restaurant.
... is proven to drive the success of a restau rant,” Mary Hamill, senior vice president of customer success at Black Box Intelligence, said during a State of the Industry Work force webinar in November. “What we know is there’s nobody more important than the general manager.”
IF A KITCHEN IS THE HEART OF A RESTAURANT, then a general manager is almost certainly the brain. New data from Black Box Intelligence reaffirms the value of this role and reveals a strong correlation between long-tenured GMs and industry-leading performance. “The data tells us the impact of retention
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FirstCourse
And though workforce numbers are improving across the board, challenges persist. As of August, a large portion of non-management workers (44 per cent for front of house and 43 percent for back of house) have only been at their current posts six months or less; two years prior, that employee pool accounted for a third. At the same time, managers are leaving, too, and their departures only compound exits at the worker level. "Understanding the systemic causes of turnover in our restaurants can really help us make changes," Hamill said. "We know there’s a correlation between management turnover and hourly turn over, and it really starts with being able to retain our GMs.” Black Box Intelligence zeroed in on the reasons why general managers leave. Tied for the top spot are higher compensation at another company and poor work-life balance. And per the data, GMs have very concrete reasons for being dissatisfied with their wages. "The No. 1 driver of performance in a restaurant is your GM," Hamill said. "However, when you look at the total comp year over year, they're actually making less." In late 2021 and early 2022, bonuses increased dramatically compared to the prior year when bonuses were slashed. But total compensation began to slow, and by August, GMs were earning nearly 1 percent less than they had in 2021. "If you take into account the conver sation around general managers, their pay is declining, the expectation on pay increases is low, and the fact the cost to replace them is high, I'd argue we're headed in the wrong direction," Hamill said. Brands that offer GMs bonuses between 16 and 35 percent of their base salary outpace competitors by 8.3 percent. For bonuses higher than 35 percent, it's a 16.5 percent gap. "We need to make changes to incen tivize and retain individuals who are the most important to the success of our restaurants," Hamill said.
Holiday Holdouts
DESPITE INFLATIONARY PRESSURE, holiday retail sales are predicted to increase 4–6 percent this year, per Deloitte. The out look for restaurants, however, isn’t as rosy and could vary by demographic. In a survey from digital marketing solutions provider Vericast , 41 percent of respondents said they planned to spend less on eating out during the last few months of 2022 —an amount even higher for Gen X (47 percent). Nevertheless, about a fifth of consumers (21 percent) reported they intended to spend more at restaurants. This average was driven largely by Gen Z, with 37 percent planning to dine out more than last year. Similarly, 35 percent of those with dispos able income are planning to eat out more.
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FirstCourse
In the
Bread Basket BISCUITS have eclipsed their status as a break fast-only Southern staple. Accord more, 73 PERCENT OF CONSUMERS SAY THEY WOULD ORDER A BISCUIT AS A SIDE IF IT WAS ON THE MENU —a craving that’s not restricted to the earliest daypart. Breakfast may claim the lion’s share in terms of biscuit orders, with 44 per cent of consumers reporting they’d likely eat one, but demand is nearly as high at dinner, when 40 per cent of Americans say they’d order a biscuit with dinner. Consumers are also interested in fresh takes beyond the bread basket; 58 percent are interested in desserts made of bis cuits, and 51 percent say they’d be more likely to order a sandwich if it was on a biscuit rather than regular bread. ing to findings from GENERAL MILLS , more than a third (34 percent) of Americans have ordered a bis cuit for dine-in or takeout in the past year. What’s
T I M E FO R MO R E Red Wi ne
Amid the boom in craft beer and cocktails, wine has experi enced only incremental growth in recent years, but future projections are looking far more fruitful, especially for red wine. Per market research firm Fact.MR , red wine expe rienced a compound annual growth rate of 2 percent between 2017 and 2021—a modest figure that Fact. MR attributes partially to higher costs and more lim ited penetration in certain regions. But as access to pre mium options expands, red wine is expected to grow by 5 percent between now and 2032, catapulting its global value from $82 billion to $135 billion . As for the most popular vinos? Shiraz and Merlot are leading the pack, together accounting for a market share of 13 percent, or an estimated $11.7 billion as of year-end.
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Chefs& Ingredients
CULINARY INSPIRATION AND STORIES FROM INDUSTRY TRAILBLAZERS MENTIONED IN THIS SECTION SEABIRD • • • BOB’S PIZZA • • •
AGI’S COUNTER • •
• TAP 65
Following
Sea the
SEABIRD’S SEASONAL SEAFOOD TOWER INCLUDES PICKLED SHRIMP, LOBSTER CLAW SALAD, SMOKED CATFISH PATÉ, AND MORE.
MALLORY CASH
WHEN CHEF DEAN NEFF was named a semifinalist for the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southeast in 2019, he was technically without a restaurant. The nomination came just weeks after he left Pinpoint Restaurant, the seasonally driven Southern kitchen Neff started when he and his wife and business partner, chef Lydia Clopton, moved to Wilmington, North Carolina, in 2015. Shortlisted for one of the industry’s most presti gious awards and yet between concepts, Neff began looking for a space that would
BY RACHEL PITTMAN With Seabird, chef Dean Neff returns to his coastal roots.
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CHEFS & INGREDI ENT S CHEF PROF I LE
inspire him. “ at was an odd time—it’s a really complicated, almost abstract experi ence, thinking about opening a restau rant when you don’t have space yet,” he says. “You’re working towards something but you’re not completely sure what it is.” A few months later, Neff located a historic building on a prominent corner in downtown Wilmington that would become Seabird, a seafood bar specializ ing in oysters, cocktails, all-day, locally sourced fare, and an elevated, celebra tory atmosphere. After securing the loca tion for Seabird, Neff and Clopton began the lengthy process of renovating and restoring the historic property. e cou ple utilized three design firms to create their perfect space. e resulting restaurant opened in May 2021 and is an elegant ode to North Carolina’s coast. Reminiscent of a cap tain’s quarters, the dining room and bar marry warm, hardwood accents with clean, gleaming tile, sleek leather booths, and a color palette peppered with aquatic blues. Eager to utilize Seabird’s thought fully constructed dining spaces, Neff has intermittently offered breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner service since opening.
e concept currently offers grab-and-go coffees and pastries, dinner, and week end brunch, with intentions of begin ning its weekday full breakfast and lunch offerings anew in the future. Even while lunch is paused, Seabird’s physical loca tion remains open for guests to utilize nearly all day, which was an intention Neff held for Seabird even in its earli est stages. “During the day, it’s much more laid back, and you can post up and do work in the space and have a baked good and cof fee,” he says. “ en, at nighttime, Seabird becomes this sort of oyster bar concept. People love eating oysters, and having someone take a lot of care in shucking them the right way and plating them makes people feel special.” Neff maintains that the physical Seabird space dictated, in large part, the menus, and Seabird’s offerings are no less meticulously crafted than its atmosphere. The locally driven, sea food-focused fare is a homecoming for the chef. Raised in Savannah, Georgia, he grew up fishing and preparing fresh seafood. After attending culinary school in Atlanta and cooking in a number of mainland kitchens that focused on fresh, local ingredients but not seafood, Neff
CHEF DEAN NEFF
CHEF YOU’DMOST LIKE TOWORK WITH: Cheetie Kumar FAVORITE UTENSIL: Masahiro knives INGREDIENT OF THEMOMENT: Seaweed—you can use it in anything and it adds so much flavor FAVORITE BEACHACTIVITY: Flying kites with our 3-year old and 4-month-old BEST POST-SHIFT COCKTAIL: The Seabird Martini
SEABIRD STANDS APART FROM MOST SEAFOOD CONCEPTS IN THAT IT’S AN ALL-DAY AFFAIR, OPERATING AS A CAFÉ BEFORE DINNER SERVICE AND ALSO OFFERING WEEKEND BRUNCH.
MALLORY CASH (4)
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CHEFS & INGREDI ENT S CHEF PROF I LE
was due for a return to his coastal culi nary roots. Seabird’s menus showcase Neff’s deep love for the flavors of the ocean, as well as various other culinary traditions that have inf luenced him. The restaurant offers oysters aplenty; there are usually at least three available raw options, as well as oysters barbecued, broiled with hollandaise, and served Rockefeller style. In other dishes, Neff uses sustainably farmed seafood and more local ingredi ents to bring an innovative approach to classic applications. Take the Eastern Cioppino, which infuses a traditional Italian stew with Southern American coastal flavors by way of clams, black drum, shrimp, scal lops, andouille sausage, and potato fen nel. Or the Swordfish Schnitzel, a dish
inspired by Neff ’s chi ldhood cook ing with his mother, in which breaded swordfish is served alongside marigold spaetzle and lemon jam. “ e schnitzel makes sense to people conceptually, because it has a German sort of direction to it,” Neff says. “But it takes ingredients that are local and gives the schnitzel a new sense of time and place. Sometimes when people see a concept like this, they ask ‘how did you come up with that?’ It’s just really simple once you explain it, because I think peo ple can sense the dish does have some sort of context somewhere else.” At the core of the menu is, of course, seafood, sourced from sustainable sup pliers from North Carolina and other regional markets. e weekend brunch menu includes a crab cake benedict, N.C.
shrimp, and oyster po’boys. And at din nertime, even the grilled steak, one of Seabird’s sole dinner entrées for land lubbers, incorporates oceanic ingredi ents; accompanying sliced tomatoes are briefly placed against Kombu seaweed, which adds a rich, salty flavor. “Even when people order steak, we still give them a little bit of the ocean on their plate,” Neff says. e bar’s robust cocktail program also bears the influence of the ocean, with signature drinks like the Seabird Mar tini, a zesty blend of olive oil–washed gin and plankton brine, adding a marine flair to the drink list. During the day, the bar does double duty as a counter-service coffee spot. Customers can order from a focused yet inspired menu that includes drip and iced coffee, espresso drinks, teas, and a variety of pastries, like olive oil muffins and scratch-made biscuits, from house pastry chef Jim Diecchio. Before opening Seabird, Clopton owned Wilmington’s Love, Lydia Bak ery & Cafe, which specialized in pastries. us, Seabird’s daytime café is nothing new for the couple behind the concept. Although weekday breakfast and lunch are temporarily off the table, the res taurant’s grab-and-go coffee and pastry offerings and weekend brunch menus add extra streams of revenue to Seabird’s dinnertime service. While the concept opened its doors one year into the Covid-19 pandemic, when health guidelines made it diffi cult for restaurants to operate both fully and responsibly, Seabird has developed a strong customer base. Guests seek out not only its thoughtful, local food and beverage programs, but also the atmo sphere that Neff and Clopton curated so carefully. e brand’s downtown location and warm, spacious bar and dining spaces offer an elevated, all-day spot for locals and beach tourists alike—whether they are waking up with morning coffee or toasting a special occasion with a sophis ticated dinner. “People come into Seabird and they order champagne and oysters and they celebrate, “ Neff says.
SEABIRD OPERATES OUT OF A HISTORICAL BUILDING DOWNTOWN.
“During the day, it’s muchmore laidback, and you can post up and dowork in the space and have a baked good and coffee.”
MALLORY CASH
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CHEFS & INGREDI ENT S NOW SERVING
Keeping It Short and Sweet BY LEIGH KUNKEL By focusing on a limited selection, restaurants can drive sales and buzz around dessert.
THE GULAB JAMUN AT TAP 65 IS STUFFED WITH HOUSE-MADE CHEESECAKE AND TOPPED WITH THAI WHIPPED CREAM AND BERRY COMPOTE.
TAYLOR HINTON
THE WORLD OF RESTAURANT DINERS can be divided into two groups: dessert people, and non-dessert people. While for some, a meal is incomplete without a sweet bite or two at the end, others are content to finish with a savory main or bitter coffee. In fact, a past survey from Statista found that half of consumers order desserts rarely or never. And restaurant owners and kitch ens have similarly ambivalent feelings. While dessert can be an opportunity to boost a check average, it also requires
precious resources like manpower and expertise that are in short supply in kitchens, particularly since the pan demic began. “Baking is a science whereas with savory items, there can be more twist ing and turning, more experimentation,” says Matt Wilde, chef of Bob’s Pizza, a Chicago mini-chain. “If you want to have a full dessert offering and make it a focus, that usually requires at least one dedicated person, maybe more.” But some restaurants are experiment
ing with a new idea, namely, the single dessert menu. “I have always loved the concept of having one really great dessert and hav ing it be something as classic and simple as cheesecake, but one of the best slices of cheesecake our guests have ever had,” says Jeremy Salamon, chef and owner of Agi’s Counter in Brooklyn, New York, where the menu is inspired by nostalgia for the city’s Jewish deli culture. Cheesecake appealed to Salamon because it’s a New York staple, and his
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NOW SERVING CHEFS & INGREDI ENT S
cheesecake is simple but decadent: plain, made with Philadelphia cream cheese, and topped with a seasonal garnish. In fact, cheesecake, with its infinite options for customization, is a popular choice for single-item desserts. In Baton Rouge, Louisiana, Tap 65 puts an unex pected spin on the traditional Indian dessert, gulab jamun, which is fried balls of milk dough soaked in a sugar syrup. Tap 65 spices the gulab jamun with car damom and saffron, then stuffs it into a house-made cheesecake, and tops it with chai whipped cream, a glucose biscuit, and berry compote. “We initially had two other desserts that we had talked about adding to the menu,” says Chris Swanson, general manager at Tap 65. “We tested through and decided we could have one good des sert or three mediocre desserts, but this one really made us sit up and say, ‘wow.’ I think we made the right decision; the cheesecake has probably been posted on Instagram a thousand times.” Many restaurants with limited des sert menus seem to gravitate toward dishes that can easily be made in large quantities and garnished individually for diners, like the offering at Bob’s Pizza, where guests can order a house-made oatmeal cream pie, which consists of fresh vanilla sweet cream sandwiched between soft, chewy oatmeal cookies and packaged in a paper bag like a fancy version of the snack cakes you might have had in your lunchbox as a child. “When people go out for pizza, des sert isn’t usually a priority, so I wanted it to be simple but good and not take away from our focus,” Wilde says. “ e time and effort isn’t simple—we make the cookie batter and fresh-bake them and fill them and package them. But the pickup is simple, since we present them for in-person diners the same way we do for carryout.” e ability to prep beforehand makes dinner service smoother without sac rificing the needs of guests who have a sweet tooth. “With the cheesecake, the prep team can bake it up at 8 .. and have them ready for service,” Swanson says. “ en
“Baking is a science whereas with savory items, there can bemore twisting and turning, more experimentation.”
FOR DESSERT, BOB’S PIZZA SPECIALIZES IN A HOUSE-MADE RENDITION OF A CHILDHOOD FAVORITE: OATMEAL CREAM PIE COOKIES.
YANCU
it’s just plating, so it’s a relatively quick pickup.” In addition to the ease of pickup, sin gle-item dessert menus also limit the number of extraneous ingredients that a kitchen has to carry. Since many ingre dients for dessert dishes don’t overlap with the savory menu items, an exten sive dessert menu can often lead to an abundance of components that are only used for one dish. In restaurant kitchens, where space is at a premium, even one extraneous bottle can become an issue, particularly if it’s for a dish that isn’t often ordered. And it seems that there’s something psychological ly appealing to diners about seeing a single sweet option at
the end of their meal. “It’s a draw for diners to try the one dessert on the menu,” Salamon says. “We didn’t really expect that to be the mentality, but it has absolutely worked. About 95 percent of customers order the slice, partly attributed to the fact that we only have the one dessert. It’s kind of a no-brainer.” It’s been a similar experience at Tap 65. “It’s a super easy upsell when you’re not presenting the guest with five items,” Swanson says. “We get a greater return on desserts per guest than giving them a handful of options, and we haven’t had any pushback on the limited menu. e cheesecake gets rave reviews, and we sell a ton.”
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TRENDS AND CREATIVE APPROACHES TO SPIRITS, WINE, AND BEER. MENTIONED IN THIS STORY BAR VEGAN • • • STOVE & TAP • • •
GOOD BAD & UGLY
UNLIKE SISTER BRAND EGGSLUT, THE MENU AT BAR VEGAN FEATURES AN ARRAY OF CRAFT COCKTAILS, LIKE THE TEXAS MARGARITA.
Embracing Bar THE
COURTESY OF MADELYNNE ROSS
IN EXPANDING their on-premises busi ness, restaurants typically go one of two routes: They open more loca tions of the same concept, eventu ally becoming a micro-chain, or they pack their portfolio with new concepts.
And then some brands take a varied approach on the latter path. Instead of creating new restaurants, they build bar-forward establishments and differ entiate themselves from the pack by serving a niche—and sometimes
BY NICOLE DUNCAN Why restaurants are opening beverage-focused spin-offs.
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LOCATED UNDER STOVE & TAP, GOOD BAD & UGLY COVERS A DIFFERENT DINING (AND DRINKING) OCCASION, PROVIDING A MODERN TAKE ON THE ‘DINNER AND A MOVIE’ COMBINATION OF DECADES PAST.
INTERIOR + EXTERIOR: ERIK WEBER (2) / FOOD + DRINK: EDDY MARENCO (2)
“Food revenue drives a lot of the sales, but themargins are not as strong. Sowhen you build a bar concept on top of that, you're building somethingwithmuch larger margins."
Based in the greater Philadelphia area, Stove & Co. compr ises four brands: two-unit Stove & Tap, Al Pas tor, Revival Pizza Pub, and its latest concept, Good Bad & Ugly. When the space beneath the West Ches ter, Pennsylvania, location of Stove & Tap opened, Weathers and his part ners were eager to grab it. ey wanted to distinguish it from the New Ameri can restaurant upstairs, but they also didn’t want it to stray too far from the group’s F&B core. Opening a bar was the natural choice. “It expands your time that you can, as a business, create revenue and different experiences. And because it’s attached to the restaurant, my business partner Joe [Monnich] and I like to say it’s kind of like dinner and a movie,” Weathers says.
“People want to not just go out; they want to be entertained.” To this point, Good Bad & Ugly has adopted a bar-meets-eatertainment identity, with shuff leboard, billiards, and nostalgic video games at the ready. Weathers says these interactive com ponents also encourage conversation among strangers—something he him self seeks when going out. In Atlanta, Bar Vegan is also all about the experience, albeit without the eater tainment vibes. For founder Pinky Cole, who also owns growing fast casual Slutty Vegan, the full-service bar/restaurant was meant to foster the quintessential bar experience but with a crucial distinction. “After the success of Slutty Vegan, I’m like, ‘OK, I want to create a bar where they have vegan food at the bar because
untapped—dining occasion. “Food revenue drives a lot of the sales, but the margins are not as strong. So when you build a bar concept on top of that, you’re building something with much larger margins,” says Justin Weathers, co-owner of Stove & Co. Res taurant Group. “ e 50/50 blend of food and beverage sales, in any operation, is the sweet spot for making a success ful business. It is more to manage, but it does amount to a healthier business.”
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I’ve never been to a vegan bar before,’” Cole says. “ e experience was always at the forefront of the idea … and that expe rience is the vibe, the music, the food— because food is also an experience. We wanted to make sure people could let their hair down and relax.” Andwhile the atmospheremay be laid back, it is also brimming with energy— both from the funky decor (neon signs, velvet chairs, a stained glass bar back splash, etc.) and its location within the lively Ponce City Market. True to Cole’s original vision, the menu features indul gent bar foods (think: fries, tacos, pizza, and barbecue chicken sliders) but with an elevated, plant-based twist. As for beverages, refreshing classics
like margaritas and mules share real estate with signature cocktails, includ ing nonalcoholic options. Ironical ly enough, wine, not mixed drinks, is the top-seller, something Cole attributes to the young professionals Ponce City Mar ket tends to attract. Like Weathers, Cole says a bar con cept can boost profits because it appeals not to a different clientele so much as a different going-out occasion. She’s also seeing more blurring between what con stitutes a restaurant and what consti tutes a bar, since both categories are stepping up their game. “I think they’re now starting to go hand in hand, even if it’s not a full-on bar. I’m seeing restaurants that have a
bar aesthetic to them,” she says. “A bar can really bring in a different kind of rev enue that you typically won’t see just in the restaurant space.” Bar Vegan doesn’t directly name itself as the sister concept to Slutty Vegan, though Cole’s growing reputationmeans many customers know the two proper ties are linked. “You won’t see anything about Slutty Vegan on Bar Vegan’s [web] page, and you won’t see anything about Bar Vegan on Slutty Vegan’s page because I want them to live separately and have their own identity,” she says. “However, you know who owns both of them, and you know the quality of one is going to be as good as the quality of the other one.”
RECOGNIZING A LACK OF VEGAN FRIENDLY WATERING HOLES, PINKY COLE CREATED HER OWN BAR CONCEPT.
PINKY COLE
BAR VEGAN (2) / DREA NICOLE PHOTOGRAPHY
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Stove & Co. isn’t especially loud in cross-promoting its con cepts, but each respective website does have an option to view other restaurants in the same family; Good Bad & Ugly also points out its location as right below Stove & Tap. Weathers estimates less than half of Good Bad & Ugly patrons are coming directly from Stove & Tap above. That’s no small amount, but he says it’s important that the bar be a destination unto itself. The two concepts’ operations, how ever, have far more overlap, both in terms of kitchen prep and workforce. “There’s a lot of synergy that goes along with our philos ophy behind the bar. We make our own mixes, syrups, and sours and fresh-press everything, so it is nice to have kitchen space,” Weathers says. “It also makes it better for efficiency of employee staffing.” He adds that employees can earnmore by picking up shifts from both establishments, which also helps Stove & Co. opti mize its workforce amid labor challenges. Training can be more intensive to work behind the bar, but the group has come up with clever ways to cross-utilize staff. “Because it does go until 2 in the morning at the bar, it’s necessary to interchange employees,” Weathers says. “The bar does require a higher skill set of bartending—that’s kind of required—but we just recently installed a food truck–style snack bar in there, so we need employees to work that. And some of our other employees who serve at night will transi tion into being bouncers and security at night.” The success of Good Bad & Ugly has led Weathers and his partners to look at properties with potential for the addition of a separate bar. This strategy may soon prove especially pre scient; as inflation threatens a chilling effect on restaurant sales, bar concepts might be more insulated. “I always say the threshold for a restaurant’s price point is the burger on its menu. People say, ‘Oh, they have a $16 burger there; they’ve got a $22 burger there. It’s a we-can’t-go-there kind of spot.’ Whereas a lot of times, people don’t even look at the drink prices; they just order,” Weathers says. Cole is also keen to expand Bar Vegan, though only into big cities, where it can attract locals and tourists alike. She’s already exploring locations in D.C. and New York while also developing another alcohol-forward restaurant, which is slated to debut next year. “I’m going to do a mimosa bar,” she says. “People can get excited about coming to the space outside of just the food.” “I think they're now starting to go hand in hand, even if it's not a full-on bar. I’m seeing restaurants that have a bar aesthetic to them."
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B est B uys BY FSR STAFF FSR ’s annual Buyer’s Guide is back with 44 of the best tools, ingredients, tech, and more to help your restaurant soar in 2023. D espite lingering pandemic challenges and an increasingly cutthroat labor mar ket, restaurants began to hit their stride in 2022. Full-service concepts reclaimed dine-in business without ceding much of the off-premises sales they’d amassed over the last two years. At the same time, chefs and opera tors began mixing things up, from experiment ing with new recipes and ingredients to adding guest-friendly tech solutions. Even with a possible recession ahead, the momentum is certain to continue in 2023 and with these products across five categories (food, bev erage, kitchen tools, tech, and appliances), res taurants can win the new year, come what may.
DECEMBER 2022
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2023 BUY ER ’ S GU IDE
1 Cholula Street Taco Seasoning Mixes Ideal for batch-style cooking, Cholula Street Taco Seasoning Mixes are available in two fla vors: Chile Pepper Carne Asada and Smoky Chi potle Carnitas. Using just one pouch, chefs can make one pound of carne asada or carnitas and also customize, with recipes ranging from carne asada queso to chi potle pork tenderloin chop salad. J mccormickforchefs.com ALL-IN INGREDIENTS
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M C CORMICK FOR CHEFS
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BUYER ’ S GUIDE FOOD
the Stuffed Cauliflower Bites are available in two flavors: Margherita and Spinach Ricotta. J veggiesmadegreat.com
ded cabbage, tomatoes, Asian-style tartar sauce, and curry spice. J delpacificoseafoods.com 6 Gotchu Korean Hot Sauce Bibigo’s Gotchu Korean Hot Sauce features gochujang, a Korean hot pepper paste that packs the flavors of sun-dried, fermented chilies, with a balance of sweet, savory, and tanginess. Available in Classic and Extra Spicy, both Gotchu sauces bring layers of heat to classic Korean dishes and a range of other dishes, like pizza and quesadillas. J bibigousa.com
ALL-IN INGREDIENTS Chefs take pride in scratch-made dishes, but these high-quality ingredients can help them speed up throughput without sacrificing quality.
4 New Wave Breaded Shrimp
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NEW WAVE FOODS
To meet consumer demand for plant-based proteins, New Wave Foods introduced its breaded shrimp offering, with a texture and flavor that matches its ocean counterpart. The aller gen-free product goes right from freezer to fryer and can serve as a substi tute for any warm shrimp dish, from kebabs and scampis to po’boys and wraps. J newwavefoods.com 5 Del Pacifico Wild Caught Shrimp Burgers Del Pacifico Wild Caught Shrimp Burgers are hand chopped and seasoned only with black pepper, garlic, and olive oil. The frozen patties only need a few minutes per side on a flat top, opening the door to fast preparation but also innovation; for example, chef Roy Villa crusis with Asiatic Group
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2 Barilla Lasagne Chef With an eye on operational efficiency and waste reduc tion, the Barilla Lasagne Chef features dry, bulk-packed, no-boil lasagne sheets sized specifically for foodser vice pans. Shelf-stable and made of durum wheat, Bari lla Lasagne Chef can yield seven trays of lasagna from every case. J barillafoodservicerecipes.com
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BIBIGO
7 Tiny Fish Smoked Geoduck The third product in “Top Chef” alum Sara Hauman’s Tiny Fish line of sustainable canned seafood is geoduck, a large, lesser-known clam native to the Pacific Northwest. Smoked and seasoned with brown sugar, black pepper, and garlic, the geoduck has been described as tast ing like “clam bacon.” J thetinyfishco.com
3 Stuffed Cauliflower Bites The new Stuffed Cauli flower Bites from Veggies Made Great feature a crispy crust made of cau liflower, carrots, broccoli, and spinach, plus alter native flours like chick pea and rice. Reminiscent of traditional pizza bites,
created an Ebi Katsu burger on a Chinese sweet bun with shred
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VEGGIES MADE GREAT
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FOOD BUYER ’ S GUIDE
10 Paow! Pieces With the same premium texture and flavor of the original Paow! Chef Style plant-based chicken, the new pieces feature smaller cuts for faster prep and less kitchen waste. Made of only water, soy protein con centrate, and salt, Paow! Pieces can be pan-fried, boiled, baked, sous-vide, or grilled for a variety of menu applications. J getpaow.com 11 Red Gold Plant Based Pasta Sauces Made with tomato purée, diced tomatoes, plant based protein, and extra virgin olive oil, Red Gold Plant-Based Sauces can be used in pasta and pizza menu applications. Housed in shelf-stable No. 10 cans, the sauces are available in two styles: Italian Sausage Style and Bolognese Style, ensuring easy prep and fast throughput. J redgoldfoods.com
12 Premium Chocolate 5-Pound Bags
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GHIRARDELLI PROFESSIONAL
Ghirardelli’s new Pre mium Chocolate 5-Pound Bags offer operators a smaller option for choc olate chips that is easier to pour and store. Well suited for flavoring, coat ing, molding, and glaz ing, the non-coverture chips are available in nine varieties, including milk chocolate and dark choc olates ranging from 52 to 100 percent cacao. J ghirardelli.com
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M C CORMICK FOR CHEFS
8 McCormick Culinary Guacamole & More Seasoning A pre-blended mix of onion, red bell pepper, paprika, garlic, lemon juice, and sea salt, McCormick’s new Culi nary Guacamole & More Seasoning is an intuitive match for the avocado dip, but the possibilities encompass everything from breakfast dishes like avocado toast and sausage hashbrowns to Middle Eastern fare like tabouli and chicken kofta. J mccormickforchefs.com
herbaceous and tangy flavors to grilled meats, from roasted beef to pork sausages. Beyond these traditional pair ings, the sauce can also enhance flatbreads, grain bowls, and more. A sig nature sauce in Argen tina and Uruguay, chimi churri is made of finely chopped parsley, minced garlic, oregano, olive oil, and red wine vinegar. J sevillofinefoods.com
SEVILLO
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9 Sevillo Chimichurri Sauce Sevillo’s 2022 FABI Award–winning chimi churri sauce brings fresh,
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RED GOLD
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BUYER ’ S GUIDE BE VER AGE
16 Alley Twenty Six Cocktail Mixers Award-winning cocktail bar and restaurant Alley Twenty Six expanded its line of premium cocktail mixers to include pome granate and passionfruit, the latter of which won the N.C. Speciality Food contest. In addition to these new varieties, the line includes strawberry, raspberry, blood orange, and tonic syrup. (Read more on page 34 .) J alleytwentysixsyrups.com
tom beverages. The fresh juice mixer can be sim ply paired with seltzer or blended into cock tails and nonalcoholic libations. Strawberry & Lemon flavor is also among the new releases. J shop.freshvictor.com 15 Neutral Beverage Base Monin Americas’ Neutral Beverage Base is a fla vorless, clean-label prod uct that imparts a thicker, smoother consistency in frozen beverages, like milkshakes, frozen lem onades, iced lattes, and cocktails. The 64-ounce operator-friendly bottle delivers the same thick ening and consistency benefits of powdered frappé bases, but with just the press of a pump. J monin.com
BOTTOMS UP Beverage options are trending toward extremes, with light, refreshing mixers on one end and smooth, luxurious sips on the other.
FIRE DEPARTMENT COFFEE
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13 Nitro-Charged, Ready-to-Drink Coffee Fire Department Coffee’s first foray into the ready-to drink space leverages the same proprietary process the brand developed six years ago. Its flagship flavor, Nitro Irish Cream, infuses real whiskey and cream into coffee but is still nonalcoholic. The other three variet ies are Nitro-Charged Latte, Nitro-Charged Shellback Espresso, and Nitro Vanilla Bean Bourbon. J firedeptcoffee.com
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14 Grapefruit & Sea Salt Juice Mixer One of the latest fla vors in the Fresh Victor line of premium, cold pressed juice mixers bal ances the tart and sweet notes of grapefruit with the savory bite of sea salt. Each 64-ounce bot tle yields about 21 cus
MONIN
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FRESH VICTOR
BAXTER MILLER
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