FSR August 2022

LIQUID INTELLIGENCE

from agave. While tequila must be made from blue agave and produced in a desig nated region of Mexico, mezcal can use a variety of agaves and is produced in a separate region in Mexico. Mezcals are usually described as having a smokier flavor than tequilas. Discussions around such differentia tions are becoming more commonplace. “Today’s tequila is elegant. It’s complex,” says Ricky Camacho, director of culinary operations and corporate chef at Añejo Restaurant, which has two locations in New York City and a third in Philadelphia. Camacho says he believes tequila’s burgeoning popularity can be attrib uted to America’s love of margaritas. According to a 2021 report from mar ket research firm CGA Strategy, 49 per cent of cocktail drinkers order a margar ita when dining out. Camacho adds that the ubiquitous cocktail has acted as an entry point to Mexican culture for most consumers and, in his opinion, led to more Mexi can concepts being introduced through out the country. “The No. 1 driver is mar garitas,” he says. “Ten to 12 years ago if you wanted exceptional Mexican food and tequila, you’d have to go out to Los Angeles,” Camacho adds. “Now, you have Mexican concepts with Michelin stars. Tequila used to be associated with terrible hang overs and pounding headaches, but now it’s looked at in the same light as bour bon or cognac.” Margaritas are also being looked at in a new light. He says while the premixed frozen margaritas of yesterday are still around, fresh versions of the classic cock tail are making waves in more modern establishments. By using seasonal pro duce and a bit of imagination, he says, restaurants can create margaritas wor thy of today’s elevated Mexican concepts. “I love to experiment with different sweeteners,” he says. “Whether you’re using a house-made simple syrup or a natural sweetener, you’d be surprised at how much that can elevate a margarita.” The Añejo chef says elevating tequila based cocktails, like the margarita, is the next logical step, but he doesn’t want to

see the drink altered to the point where it becomes unrecognizable. At that point, creating an entirely new drink would be a better option. “It’s a staple cocktail. It’s refreshing, and it’s satisfying,” he says. “I’d rather not change it a whole lot.” Camacho adds that today’s drinkers aren’t settling for rail tequila. Instead, they're opting for high-end and lesser known versions. Customers are delv ing into a variety of styles like blanco, reposado, and añejo, which are distin guished by how long they’re aged. Blanco, also known as silver tequila, is unaged, while reposado is aged in American oak barrels between two months and one year. Añejo is also aged in American oak barrels but requires at least a year of aging. One of the ways customers are begin ning to sample these different styles is through flights. Restaurants like Añejo have started offering small sizes of var

AT AÑEJO, TACOS AND TEQUILA WIN THE DAY.

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FSRMAGAZINE.COM

AUGUST 2022