FSR April 2023

CHEFS & INGREDIENTS CHEF PROFILE

they’re just so majestic. They’re like old souls,” Burris says. The chef himself could also be described as an old soul. Though only in his 40s, Burris has already pursued mul tiple passions, from studying environ mental science and championing local agriculture to opening his own gym and restaurant. The lessons gleaned from those experiences now inform his cur rent role as executive chef at The Barley Hound in Prescott, Arizona. Still, Burris admits it has taken him time to feel con fident in his own culinary chops. “It’s a big learning curve for me— trusting in my abilities and my skill to cook. And even though other people have had that [trust] in me, I’m just now learn ing it; I’m just now believing it,” he says. Best described as a rustic, chef driven gastropub, The Barley Hound is the brainchild of restaurateur extraor dinaire Skyler Reeves. Since this first restaurant opened in 2015, Reeves has grown his portfolio into Vivili Hospital ity Group, with five differentiated brands ranging from a taqueria and tequila bar to a hearty yet healthy cafe. But The Bar ley Hound remains the original—and arguably, flagship—concept. Burris, who came on board in Octo ber 2021, says one of the things he rel ishes about leading an existing operation is bringing his own style into the equa tion while still taking inspiration from his predecessors. “One thing I love about other chefs is we all have our own way and approach to cooking and ideas, and Skyler gave me that opportunity,” Burris says. “I was a patron at The Barley Hound in the early days, and I’ve been close to Skyler, so I’ve seen the evolution of the place. He was like, ‘Look, I want you to do what you want to do.’ He had no boundaries on that.” It was an ideal dynamic, given that Burris is one who works better outside the confines of the status quo—and likes to mix things up. Last year’s spring menu featured Sous Vide Barbecue Prime Pork Ribs, Scottish Egg with Duck Sausage, Spicy Vegan Curry, and Harissa & Yogurt Chicken

familiar with the short rib but maybe they’re not so familiar with bone mar row,” he says. That ethos has also carried over to the restaurant’s first-ever brunch menu, which debuted last fall. Alongside ele vated classics like Fried Green Tomato Eggs Benedict and Sweet Potato Hash, The Barley Hound serves “The Cheege,” toasted brioche with scrambled eggs, cheddar, and pickled jalapeño. The dish was inspired by the chef’s father who would make a simpler version of the dish when Burris was growing up. “My dad actually came up with that word— well, he claims he did,” he says. Years before working in a professional kitchen, Burris moved from his home town of Lincoln, Nebraska, to attend Prescott College, where he earned a bachelor’s degree in environmental sci ence. Following graduation, he worked for the forestry department, but all the while, he continued cooking for friends and for himself. He also collected quite a few cookbooks. It was a natural evo lution of a longstanding interest; even as a kid, Burris would tweak his moth er’s cooking—something, he says with a laugh, she doesn’t appreciate him broad casting now. But the deeper Burris dived into all things culinary, the greater its pull became, and eventually he decided to attend an accelerated program at the Arizona Culinary Institute. Following an externship, the newly minted chef moved to Tucson to cut his teeth—and plenty of meat. In addition to prepping ingredients, sautéing dishes, and man ning the salad station, he also learned more about butchery, and it’s a skill that continues to serve him well. “The ’Merica Burger is something that has been on the menu at The Bar ley Hound since day one. It’s had its lit tle tweaks here and there, but it’s just a basic, classic cheeseburger. I think what makes our burger so special is— and it’s very time consuming—we cut all the meat and then we grind it and patty them ourselves,” he says. “There’s a lot of value in that, I think, when you get a burger that’s hand-cut and juicy.

CHEF TONY BURRIS

INGREDIENT OF THE MOMENT: David Chang’s Momofuku Chili Crunch CHEF YOU’D MOST LIKE TO WORK WITH: Thomas Keller POST-SHIFT DRINK: Vodka soda with lime RECENTLY SPOTTED BIRD: Great horned owl

Chopped Salad. For Burris, the ultimate goal is to root his dishes in the familiar— but add a dash of the unexpected. “I’m not trying to make foams and crazy things; I’ll save that for other peo ple. I like comfort food, but I also like to cook it in a way that’s like, here’s a braised short rib, but we also put some bone marrow butter on it. People are

VIVILI HOSPITALITY GROUP (2)

APRIL 2023

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