Escapees November-December 2022
mark, my words
Light Circuitry Testing Q. I have enjoyed your articles ever since you started with Escapees. We are now full-time RVing and love it. When we had a 30-amp service, I purchased a 30-amp test light and checked all camp power poles before connecting. But now, with the 50 amp service, I cannot fi nd a test light available. So, I would like to build my own. Do you know of a source for how 50-amp power is wired and the test light circuitry? Thanks for your comments. Gene
Portable Generators Q. Recently, I have been looking into Honda generators for my Forest River 32' travel trailer. I run the ceiling ducted AC, refrigerator and occasional lights, tv or microwave. I use gas for the water heater. Is there a recommended generator for this type of usage? Living in Florida, I want to be ready for storms and also occasional trips out west. Joella A. There are several portable generators on the market that are a good match for
A. There are a number of off-the-shelf 50-amp outlet testers out there on the market. Here are a few examples: www.amazon.com/dp/B09B7K3N1W www.amazon.com/dp/B088D2JVN4 www.amazon.com/dp/B09Q8N64ZC While a plug-in tester may be more conve nient, you can get very good results using a meter. The following diagram shows the readings that you should expect across the different pins on common RV receptacles. You can probably devise a tester of your own using this information. (see diagram)
RV use. Many folks like the Honda or Yamaha
inverter generators. These units are very quiet and fully portable. Plus, since they are inverter-based, the engine speed is dependent on load. With a light load, they just idle along, unlike conven tional generators, which run
at full RPM regardless of the load. If your rig has space for it, you can install a permanently mounted RV generator. Any of these units, if properly sized, would be a good choice. It all depends on whether you would prefer a generator that you carry around like a (heavy!) suitcase or one that is permanently attached to your RV for transport. A few warnings though: If you want to run your roof air, you will generally need a generator that produces 2500-3000 watts at a minimum. Most of the 2000-watt generators will not be able to reliably start a typical 13.5K BTU roof air. Stay away from cheap Chinese generators, as they tend to wear out quickly. Avoid contractor’s generators as well, as they are very noisy. Many RV parks and most state and national park campgrounds have noise limits on generators. For your application, I think the Honda EU3000 would be a good choice, but some folks prefer to buy a pair of EU2000 units and parallel them, as each unit weighs less than half what the EU3000 does. It makes them a bit easier to handle and stow. The advantage is being able to use one when you want some AC power, but don’t need to run the roof AC.
RV Power Outlets
120V
120V
120V
0V
GND
GND
240V
0V
120V
HOT
HOT
120V
120V
Neutral
NEMA TT-30R | 30A | 125V
NEMA 14-50R | 50A | 250V
120V
0V
0V
120V
GND
GND
120V
120V
HOT
Neutral
HOT
Neutral
NEMA 5-20R | 20A | 125V
NEMA 5-15R | 15A | 125V
DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION FORMARK? Submissions must not contain commercial advertising or consumer advocacy issues. Due to the large volume of material and correspondence submitted, we may be unable to reply or acknowledge receipt of your material. Material will be edited. Questions and answers with the highest general interest may be repeated in subsequent issues. Questions can be sent by mail to “Mark, My Words” Column, 100 Rainbow Drive, Livingston, TX 77351-9300 or to techquestions@escapees.com.
November/December 2022 ESCAPEES Magazine 7
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