Elite Traveler Winter 2023/24

elite traveler WINTER 2023/24 159

north of the island — Old Man of Storr, the Quiraing and the mystical Fairy Glens are all relatively close to one another. On day two, start with a visit to Portree, the island’s sweet ‘capital,’ where you should fi t inaboat trip. Several providers line the harbor, each o ff ering excursions into the surprisingly tame seas beyond — on a good day, there’s the chance to spot humpback whales, dolphins, porpoises, seals and sea eagles. A short 30-minute drive from Portree is Talisker — the oldest working distillery on the island. The distillery recently underwent a serious facelift as part of Diageo’s £185m ($225m) investment in Scotch whisky tourism in Scotland and reemerged last year with a new gift shop, bar, tasting rooms and, most excitingly, private client areas where, if you ask nicely, you might be treated to a dram of something special. The waterfront distillery deftly caters to all levels of whisky drinker (the tours are a great intro to Talisker’s signature sweet, spicy and even salty single malts), but the Cask Draw & Tasting Experience is one for the more seasoned enthusiast. Drawing drams directly from still-aging casks, this tasting gives guests the chance to sample whiskies (with handy take-home bottles for drivers) otherwise unavailable on any market. Leaving the Misty Isle behind, it’s back onto the mainland and south to Isle of Eriska. Sat-nav systems will take you back over the Skye Bridge, but ignore this in favor of taking the ferry from Armadale to Mallaig — ferries are a rite of passage when traveling around Scotland’s west coast and can o ff er some great wildlife spotting opportunities (a minke whale made an appearance for us). When the ship docks, take another little detour to visit the Silver Sands of Morar and Camusdarach Beach. Mere minutes from Mallaig, these beaches have white sand and blue waters to rival that of the Maldives — albeit a fair few degrees cooler. Set on its own private island just north of Oban, Isle of Eriska is a self-contained haven. The main house, where you’ll fi nd stately bedrooms with brilliantly ostentatious four-poster beds and a sophisticated yet casual restaurant serving thoughtful, hearty dishes, was built in the late 1800s and stands in dramatic contrast against the island’s lush woodland. There are myriad things to do — golf, croquet, clay pigeon shooting, archery, spa trips, kayaking, tennis — but for me, Eriska’s bounty of wildlife trumped it all. Deer, seals, badgers and herons all call the island home. On our fi nal morning, Scotland gave us a parting treat: As we sat on one of Eriska’s most remote rocky outlets, in yet another downpour, a sea otter scuttled across the rocks and slinked its way into the sea — not before stopping for a little glance over at us. By Kim Ayling From $1,670 for four-night itinerary. Contact Dorothy Welsh, CEO, dorothy@luxuryscotland.co.uk, +44 178 682 1860, luxuryscotland.co.uk

TAKE THREE// DETOURS

1. EDINBURGH Instead of returning to Inverness, drive from Isle of Eriska directly to Edinburgh (the journey length is similar) for a few days of culture in the Scottish capital. There di ff erent, go for a room onboard the Fingal — a fl oating fi ve-star hotel, permanently birthed on Leith harbor. Fingal is a dining destination too, but if you want to explore, consider The Little Chartroom — a posh neighborhood restaurant celebrating Scottish ingredients. are tons of hotels to choose from, but for something a little

2. SPEYSIDE Just north of the

3. ISLE OF MULL Best sandwiched

Cairngorms and a touch further east of Inverness is Speyside: a small region home to the highest concentration of distilleries in Scotland. It is here that you’ll fi ndthe likes of The Macallan, The Glenlivet, Glen fi ddichand more; tag an extra day or two on to the end of your trip for a mini Scotch whisky immersion.

between your time on the Isle of Skye and the Isle of Eriska (drive from Mallaig directly to Kilchoan, then get the ferry across to Tobermory), Mull is the second largest isle of the Inner Hebrides. It is abundant with wildlife as well as views that make harbor is well worth your time, with plenty of cute shops, a whisky distillery and cafes all in walking distance. Don’t miss The Mishnish for a taste of a proper Scottish good time. your jaw drop. The colorful Tobermory

Above Isle of Eriska Hotel, Spa and Island near Oban Right A white-tailed eagle Belowleft Kinloch Lodge on the Isle ofSkye Below right The Drawing Room at Kinloch Lodge