Elite Traveler Summer 2024

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Star quality: The rise of Oregon Chardonnay

Clockwise Lingua Franca’s vineyards; inspecting the barrels; 2021 Sisters Chardonnay

Often hailed as the king of white grapes, Chardonnay is celebrated for its endless versatility. And,while Burgundy will likely be the fi rstplace that springs to mind when one thinks of the storied grape variety, it is, in fact, making waves in a di ff erent corner of the world — Oregon. Here, in the rolling hills of the Willamette Valley, ambitious winemakers are producing exciting new wines for those with a penchant for Chardonnay. The region — which has long been celebrated for its exceptional Pinot Noir — has seen a sharp uptick in the grape variety in recent years. Oregon’s cool climate combined with its mineral-rich, volcanic soil has proven to

be a perfect environment for Chardonnay to thrive. Leading the pack is Lingua Franca. Situated in the heart of the Eola-Amity Hills, the winery has carved out a storied reputation for its critically acclaimed Chardonnays that skillfully harness Oregon’s unique terroir. At the forefront of this movement are master sommelier Larry Stone and revered Burgundian winemaker Dominique Lafon. The two joined forces with winemaking protégé Thomas Savre following a stint working together at another of the region’s famed vineyards. Their goal, quite simply, is to bring together people from diverse cultures through incredible wine.

In 2012, Stone acquired the 150-acre Janzen Farm — a prized east-facing site at a 300-ft elevation nestled among some of the most prestigious wineries in the Willamette Valley. Favoring low-impact, biodynamic farming, the trio began rewilding half of the land. At fi rst, Lafon was reluctant to plant Chardonnay. The grape variety had, after all, been brought to Oregon in the early 1960s with little success. Californian clones struggled to ripen in the region’s cooler climate, and yields remained relatively low. The resulting wines were uninspiring; many of the vines were torn up and replaced with Pinot Noir. But fast-forward two decades, and Stone was eager to experiment. By this

time, Burgundy Dijon clones had been imported; the smaller berries and early ripening qualities meant they were better suited to Oregon’s cooler, wetter climate. The gamble paid o ff : Lingua Franca’s Chardonnay has since garnered the attention of major wine critics across the globe. Today, the winery is in the throes of producing its ninth vintage. Together with a group of ambitious Oregon winemakers, they have pioneered a new wave of world-class Chardonnays that rival the white wines of Burgundy. These are complex, elegant wines with terroir-driven acidity and delicate minerality. The accolades speak for themselves: The winery has recieved several 90-point plus awards from various industry-leading wine titles, and Lingua Franca wines were recently poured at The White House during a state dinner with the prime minister of Japan. As quality in Oregon continues to soar to ever greater heights, a bright future lies ahead. COMING SOON Lingua Franca is opening a new tasting facility at its Oregon winery. Slated to welcome guests in early June, the modern, all-glass building will host a series of events including gourmet dinners with carefully selected wine pairings along with Stuart Brioza of Michelin-starred State Bird and The Progress in San Francisco. Watch this space. linguafranca.wine

Thegamble paido ff : Lingua Franca’s Chardonnay has since garnered the attention of majorwine critics across theglobe

Photos Jason Koxvold