Elite Traveler Summer 2023

elite traveler SUMMER 2023 71

ROLEX Since its founding in 1905, Rolex — initially called Wilsdorf & Davis after its co-founders — has been making timekeeping history. The brand, renamed to Rolex by Hans Wilsdorf in 1920, had already earned the distinction in 1910 of becoming the fi rst wristwatch to carry the Swiss Certi fi cateof Chronometric Precision. But there was no resting on laurels. Wilsdorf regularly pushed limits, pioneering in the creation of water-resistant watches with its Oyster case, superior precision and outstanding aesthetics. Rolex constantly innovates when it comes to high-tech materials and supreme performance — over the decades, it has amassed hundreds of patents for its innovations. It has also fi rmly dedicated itself to the world of professional and exploratory ventures, including aligning with golf, tennis, underwater exploration, philanthropic e ff orts—and motorsports. In fact, Rolex’s rich history is inexplicably intertwined with automotive racing and drivers: Rolex has had a presence on the wrists of drivers ever since the inaugural edition of the 24 Hours of Le Mans took place in 1923. In 1930, Sir Malcolm Campbell wore a Rolex Oyster while racing Blue Bird at Daytona Beach, and again while setting a world land speed record of 300 mph in 1935. In ensuing decades, Rolex would formano ffi cial association with Daytona International Speedway and later become the O ffi cial Timepiece of the 24 Hours of Le Mans. This year, as the famed Le Mans endurance race celebrates 100 years, it does so with Rolex by its side. With so much motorsports notoriety, Rolex unveiled its fi rsto ffi cial Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona chronograph watch in 1963. Designed for professional drivers, that watch featured a tachymeter bezel and a high performance mechanical movement that could measure time intervals and help determine average speeds. That watch, thanks to its name and performance, quickly became the heartthrob for many a famous racer, and for movie stars like Paul Newman, who wore his own Rolex Daytona in the iconic racing fi lm, Winning . From that moment forward, the Rolex Daytona watch he wore (with a black-and white, panda-style dial) became nicknamed by fans as the Paul Newman Daytona, and is one of the most sought-after timepieces to date. (Paul Newman’s personal Daytona sold at auction a few years ago for an incredible $17.8m.) This year, to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex unveils several anniversary editions. Each has signature features that are icons in the Cosmograph Daytona collection, including Oyster water-resistant cases, Oyster and Oyster fl ex bracelets, and high-tech ceramic bezels in some models. Yet the new timepieces also boast subtle re fi nements of the dial, cases, lugs and bezel. All of the new-generation Cosmograph Daytona watches are now powered by the Perpetual Caliber 4131 chronograph movement that was released earlier this year. Developed entirely in-house by Rolex, the self-winding movement has a column wheel and vertical clutch for instantaneous start/stop timing functions. Much like the high-performance world of motorsports, Rolex chocks the new pieces with technologically advanced features. The Perpetual Caliber 4131 incorporates the brand’s patented, high-energy-e ffi cient Chronergy escapement, Parachrom hairspring and Para fl ex shock absorbers — o ff ering magnetic resistance, shock resistance and temperature tolerances. They are covered by Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer certi fi cation. Easily one of the most coveted of this year’s anniversary Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona watches is the version that is housed in a platinum case, with platinum bracelet, monobloc Cerachrom chestnut brown colored ceramic bezel and ice-blue sunray dial. Other versions include an Oystersteel with white dial and black subdials in classic panda style, an Oystersteel and yellow gold version, a yellow gold model, and a striking 18-karat Everose gold watch with black dial. Clearly, the Cosmograph Daytona is well-poised for at least another 60 years, if not beyond. rolex.com

The original Cartier Tank watch was introduced in 1917, and then went into production in 1919

CARTIER Founded in 1847 in Paris by Louis-François Cartier, this brand long ago achieved a rightful position among leading world jewelers. From high jewelry to objects of art, clocks, pocket watches and fi nally, in the early 20th century, wristwatches, Cartier is all about design — from sublime to daring. While Cartier produced its fi rst wristwatch in 1904 for Alberto Santos-Dumont (which inspired the serial production of the watch in 1911) and, while that series remains today a pillar for the brand, it is the Cartier Tank that quickly rose to legendary status thanks to its clean lines and geometric elegance. The Tank was fi rst introduced to the world in 1917, and then went into production in 1919. Inspired by the huge army tanks used in World War I, and with a nod to the beloved Art Deco era, Louis Cartier designed the Tank watch’s side brancards to resemble the treads of the tank with the dial between as the main body or cockpit. It was also a huge departure from the myriad of round-cased watches. The harmonious design, the square case and the powerful impetus for the watch made it a hit among socialites and the wealthy; an icon had been born. As with any beloved watch, future iterations would be explored. In fact, in 1921, Louis Cartier reworked the original Tank watch (referred to today as Tank Normale). He tweaked the design by stretching the case sides and softening the sharp angles a bit. He also worked carefully on the dial, endowing it with a more rectangular shape thanks to an inner rectangular minute track chapter ring and its beautiful Roman numerals. That design became known as the Tank Louis Cartier. Since then, Cartier has evolved the Tank, o ff eringnew and exciting versions, such as the more robust Tank Américaine in 1989 and the Tank Française with integrated metal bracelet in 1996. The brand has even endowed the Tank with mechanical movements as well as quartz calibers, and often turns to rich colors for straps and dials to add drama and delight. This year, at the Watches and Wonders Geneva exhibition, Cartier unveiled a host of Tank watches, including two very special Tank Louis Cartier timepieces. These further explore the concept of geometry and contrasts thanks to their artful dials that deftly combine the colors of gold with a mirrored construction on the dial. Each of the two, one in 18-karat rose gold and one in 18-karat yellow gold, boast graphic dial motifs with varied colors of gold to create a grid e ff ect. They are an homage to the Tank Must dials that made their debut in the 1970s. Powered by an in-house-made Cartier manual-winding movement (the 1917 MC), the watcheso ff er hour and minute indications against a marker-less background. The e ff ect of this gold grid motif is at once incredibly vintage-inspired yet thoroughly modern. cartier.com

The newest Tank Louis Cartier watches, each with gold grid dial motif, approx. $12,900

Photos Alain Costa/Rolex, Lucas Horenburg/Cartier