Elite Traveler Summer 2021

INSPIRE 20TH ANNIVERSARY GUIDE TO RESPONSIBLE LUXURY

The new green wave For far too long, fine dining was synonymous with excess. Sashimi was flown across the Pacific from Japan; animals were bred to only serve certain cuts of the meat; restaurants over-ordered fresh ingredients in anticipation of guests’ wavering tastes. Unsurprisingly, these practices inevitably led to a substantial environmental footprint. More diners, chefs and restaurateurs are waking up to the fact that gourmet cuisine and care for the environment can go hand in hand. As demand grows for sustainable luxury, pioneering chefs around the world are looking for more ways to reduce their food’s environmental impact. Many have been acting in such a way for quite some time. From promoting zero waste principles and using every part of an

animal, to sourcing local ingredients and prioritizing organic growing methods, big changes continue to be made in the world’s top kitchens. We have conducted intensive research to determine which of the world’s most revered fine dining restaurants are acting in a way that works for the greater environmental good. With our analysis of over 2,500 restaurants across the world now complete, we have created an interactive online database that enables you to access the top restaurants in the world like never before — so head directly to elitetraveler.com and find your next fine dining destination. And, to celebrate those going above and beyond, we’re shining a spotlight on what our research has deemed to be the most sustainable restaurants.

IL CANTINONE Tucked away in the Italian skiing village of Madisimo, Michelin-starred Il Cantinone restaurant has been run by Stefano Masanti and his now-wife Raffaella Mazzina since 1988. Before this, Masanti’s grandparents ran the establishment. When he took over, Masanti decided to reinvent what was previously a simple pizzeria and wine bar to establish a fine dining restaurant that celebrates the ingredients, recipes and heritage of the Valtellina region. Il Cantinone’s menus are completely seasonal, with ingredients sourced as locally as possible — so local, in fact, that game is provided by the father of Masanti’s right-hand man Stefano Ciabarri. The chefs take utmost care with every ingredient in the kitchen to ensure minimal waste; any waste that is produced is composted on site and then used to fertilize homegrown vegetables or sent to local farms. Energy and water consumption are also closely monitored, with new technologies ensuring that both have been reduced by 60% or more. Masanti’s approach to sustainable fine dining is remarkably simple and refreshingly adoptable: “I think that everybody can make a difference by choosing to be respectful, kind and ethical,” he says. Despite its lofty status, Il Cantinone is completely without fuss or formality. The main dining room has the warmth of a cozy log cabin, and the atmosphere is as inviting as one would expect of a family-run establishment. The bad news, however, is that Il Cantinone is only open for five months a year (December through April), with Stefano and Raffaella spending summers at the V. Sattui Winery in Napa Valley. Contact info@sporthotelalpina.it, +39 034 356 120, ristorantecantinone.com

YUGEN Yugen has been shaking up Chicago’s fine dining scene since it first opened in late 2018. Led by a completely female management team, it is delivering much-needed diversity in a male-dominated industry (the 2020 census showed that less than a quarter of head chefs in the US are women), as well as ushering in a new generation of restaurateurs — at the time of its opening, Yugen’s general manager was just 24. Yugen’s efforts to reinvigorate Chicago’s restaurant scene haven’t gone unnoticed, with the restaurant awarded its first Michelin star in 2020. Led by executive chef Mari Katsumura, Yugen offers contemporary Japanese cuisine that reflects Katsumura’s heritage in a tasting-menu-only format. The main principle of the ever-changing menu is based on seasonality, with each dish carefully imagined to showcase and celebrate the most prominent ingredients of the given time of year. If said ingredients aren’t available, neither is the dish. Katsumura and her team are also dedicated to only using local and organic ingredients to ensure the menu remains sustainable. The restaurant is also committed to reusing and reimagining otherwise wasted by-products in other areas of the business. For example, as part of the recent to-go programming that was launched in response to the Covid-19 pandemic, Yugen included a selection of essential oil-scented soaps that were made using the wasted fat from its wagyu beef course. On the beverage menu you’ll find an impressive array of inventive cocktails, all of which are equally as committed to seasonality as the food menu, as well as one of the largest sake selections this side of the Pacific. The wine list is also remarkably extensive, with a good array of Japanese whiskies to boot. Tasting menu from $215 per person. Contact yugeninformation@gmail.com, +1 312 265 1008, yugenchicago.com