Elite Traveler Spring 2023

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Opposite page, from top Adélie penguins on Paulet Island; guests kayaking through the icy water

Below, clockwise SnowHill; Le Commandant Charcot breaking the ice; huge icebergs; guests on a Zodiac cruise

Nunatak. On our arrival, the volcanic island was ashy with black-sand beaches, but as we hiked up the side of it, it began to snow, quickly turning the black sand white. Weddell seals were lying on the beach, seemingly uninterested in our presence. In the evening, a ‘Polar Ponant Parker Party’ was held in the outdoor bar, and those feeling emboldened by a few cocktails took a dip in the outdoor pool, aka the Blue Lagoon.

while walking toward the colony, we saw sizeable groups of the seabirds. But upon arriving at the colony we saw thousands of them — including fl u ff y chicks. As the penguins have no land predators, they were unafraid and rather curious, and came up to inspect their visitors. A hush fell over our group as we listened to their chirping and took in just how many there were in this colony. The following day, we headed to Murdoch

Stepping right o ff the ship onto the ice, we made our way over a mapped-out route through thick ice and snow. (The expedition team had spent the previous night drilling into the ice to ensure its stability.) As with all landings, we were assigned to a speci fi c group to ensure that only small numbers would be out at any one time — something that was especially important for this landing, as we were on our way to see a colony of emperor penguins. Even

Photos Olivier Blaud