Elite Traveler Spring 2023

Left Tenuta di Castellaro

elite traveler SPRING 2023 107

Dining

RISTORANTE DA PINA, PANAREA Despite Panarea’s A-list appearance, guests are welcomed immediately as old friends at this simple yet elegant seafood restaurant. Sheltered under grape vines, the little Grecian courtyard is a wonderful spot for a long, languid lunch. Sample Sicilian specialities like caponata, pane cunzato and ricotta salata, as well as Mediterranean summer classics such as spaghetti frutti di mare, set among terra cotta tiles and bougainvillea-clad walls. An exercise in laid-back island charm, the wooden fans whir slowly as guests return night after night to be delighted by fresh seafood and local Filicudian delights. Fancy and formal this is not. Just a few feet from the pebbled beach in the fi shing village of Pecorini a Mare, locals and holidaymakers wander up barefoot from swimming to indulge in coupes of fresh mulberry granita with brioche. In the evening, large tables of friends gather for platters of fried calamari, homemade pasta and freshly caught lobster, washed down with Malvasia wine from neighboring islands. If you’re sailing or renting a villa, it’s worth popping into La Sirena for a breakfast pastry too. lasirena fi licudi.com CAPOFARO, SALINA At the heart of the Capofaro estate, the produce-led fi ne dining restaurant overlooks the sea on one side and steeply sloping vineyards on the other. Sicilian-born executive chef Gabriele Camiolo is fastidious about paying tribute to what’s around him. At dinner, 70% of the food served comes from the restaurant’s own allotments and gardens, with the rest sustainably sourced around Sicily. Star dishes include a traditional and impossibly tasty linguini with pistachio, bottarga and ginger; an Aeolian-style red prawn crudo with garden herbs; and lamb with grilled watermelon. There’s a heavy emphasis on the wine, with world-class Locanda & Malvasia wines by Tasca d’Almerita from its fi ve estates across Sicily. capofaro.it ristorantedapina.com LA SIRENA, FILICUDI

Photos Cesura, Tenuta di Castellaro, Matteo Carassale, Anne-Emmanuelle Thion ( fi licudiconservation.com) runs regular boat trips from Filicudi. Some of these trips take small groups to remote spots on Alicudi, the ancient settlements of Seccagni, or the marine conservation park of Scoglio della Fortuna, where lucky visitors will have the chance to see and even swim near turtles and dolphins. If you don’t have time for a boat trip, it’s still worth popping AEOLIAN ACTIVITIES ▲ For a change from the Aeolians’ myriad beachside activities, head into the hills of Lipari for a glimpse into the island’s historic wine-making tradition. Beyond the classic Malvasia, the Corinto Nero selection is proof that excellent red wines can be made on these volcanic islands too (from vines that have grown here since Hellenic times, no less). Oenophiles can take a private guided tour of Tenuta di Castellaro (tenutadicastellaro.it), a 49-acre vineyard and bioenergetic winery, for a crash course in agronomic farming principles. Meanwhile, those of a more romantic disposition can book a vineyard picnic for two, or soak up the atmosphere with a sunset wine tasting, paired with some traditional specialties and the farm’s own caperberries. Put your dollars back into local conservation e ff orts while experiencing a whole new side to the islands — Filicudi Wildlife Conservation

into the turtle sanctuary in Pecorini a Mare, where locals and international volunteers rescue and care for turtles who’ve been caught up in fi shing nets. As adventurous as scrambling over rocky outcrops and into secluded coves are, sometimes a bit of Italian dolce far niente luxury is in order. The spot for this is the Lido Gharb beach club (lidogharb.com) onSalina, where vintage parasols and stylish deck chairs are placed on a terrace overlooking the deep blue waters perfect for swimming. Lunch is a simple a ff air: Aeolian-style salads served to your lounge chair with cocktails, showers and gentle music playing in the background. The star-studded party scene on Panarea congregates each night at Hotel Raya (hotelraya.it), which for the last 50 years has been the hub of this boho-chic island community. While the hotel itself is a little dated, the terrace is an unbeatable spot to watch the sunset, accompanied by ice-cold champagne and well-stirred negronis. Later in the evening, a DJ set gets the party going at the hotel’s own open-air nightclub, the only one on the island. During the day, it’s worth popping into Boutique Raya too for block-print kaftans and beach accessories.