Elite Traveler Spring 2023

elite traveler SPRING 2023 103

Clockwise from left Passalacqua’s glorious grounds; the tennis court; inside the Grand Junior Suite; Sala delle Dame lounge; the exterior

frescoed ceilings, is one of two double-height reception rooms in the suite, with a grand piano positioned where Bellini’s supposedly once was, and from where he watched for the candle in the window of the villa opposite. This signi fi ed his lover, the opera singer Giuditta Pasta, was alone, at which point he would traverse the lake for ‘rehearsals.’ Simultaneously conducting an a ff air with another married Giuditta in the adjacent villa, whose husband threw her out as a result, Bellini was busy, and his quest for artistic inspiration on Como was clearly far from uneventful. DINE In keeping with the concept of a grand private house, the appointment of Passalacqua’s head chef, Mauro Verza, appears inspired. While Mauro’s experience embraces all aspects of the gastrosphere, he’s predominantly worked as a private chef for some of Milan’s wealthiest families. Consequently, he segues seamlessly into the informal approach to dining. Embellished by the ministrations of a knowledgeable sommelier with an excellent cellar, mealtimes at Passalacqua manage to be simultaneously very low-key and very high-end. The De Santises also have a Michelin-starred restaurant, Kitchen, harbored within their collective of Como hospitality interests; it’s 10 minutes away in the relentlessly charming town of Cernobbio. If a culinary venture outside of Passalacqua is to be contemplated, Kitchen should be at the top of any list. EXPLORE The temptation to place oneself under house arrest is overwhelming. Passalacqua is a particularly relaxing environment where every whim is catered to, from Barbara Sturm treatments in the spa to the intermittent thwack of tennis balls beckoning from the court below. That revered Italian art form, dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing), is actively encouraged. An afternoon by the pool keeping an eye on the ferries puttering back and forth as time ticks languidly down toward the negroni witching hour is probably as strenuous as it needs to be. Having access to Moltrasio, right outside the gates, presents a wonderful opportunity for a stroll around its artisanal gelateria, tumbling Alpine streams and atmospheric trattorie. Should any unwelcome hints of over-tourism manifest themselves, guests can be back under the radar and inside their secret slice of heaven before you can say sel fi estick. By Andrew Harris Suite Bellini from $10,000 per night. Contact Silvio Vettorello, general manager, silvio.vettorello@ passalacqua.it, +39 334 858 2575, passalacqua.it

a ff air. The truly mesmerizing result bears testimony to their unrivaled suitability for the task at hand — hardly surprising after almost half a century seated at the top table of Italian luxury hospitality. STAY There are 12 rooms and suites within the main villa, including the enormous Suite Bellini, within which, as a frequent guest in the early 19th century, the composer produced two of his greatest operatic works: La Sonnambula and Norma . At around $10,000 per night and covering a capacious 2,700 sq ft, the suite is as expensive as it is expansive. The former Sala Della Musica, with its ornate

Photos Stefan Giftthaler, Ricky Monti, Enrico Costantini