Elite Traveler Spring 2020

Clockwise from left An aerial view of Eden Rock; Cheval Blanc’s lobby; view from a suite at Hôtel Barrière Le Carl Gustaf; Eden Rock’s Sand Bar Restaurant

elite traveler SPRING 2020 99

on the island knows its terrifying turns and too-close-for-comfort cliffside encounters); installing fiber optics to improve internet speed; and adding 120 parking spaces in Gustavia. It’s impossible to visit St Barths without renting a car, but the current parking situation can’t meet the demands of the myriadMini Coopers andMokes. “St Barths is unique, from Trinidad to Jamaica. It’s a way of development that you don’t find elsewhere. For other islands, it’s too late to replicate. What we did can’t be transposed, not even in Europe. We did it at the right time,” Magras says. Magras is concerned about protecting the natural beauty of the island. He doesn’t want to cut too many new roads, expand villa properties or introduce too many new hotels on the island, for now. Over the years he has been approached by, and subsequently denied, larger-scale hotel developments. He has also denied requests to lengthen the runway to allow private jets to land, and increase the number of berths in the harbor. “The natural beauty could change, and I don’t want to do that. We have to live with nature, too,” Magras says. After the hurricane, locals emphasize how the storm has banded the community together, ultimately reconnecting themwith and reigniting their love for the island. “What happened in September 2017 is very difficult to describe,” says Luc Lanza, general manager of Le Toiny St Barth and a resident of the island for 25 years. “The island has become stronger and ‘brand new.’ In this situation, you can really see how locals and tourists are linked with the same spirit as St Barths lovers.” By January 2, the island begins to quiet down before the next wave of vacationers. Traffic stops, parking is easy to come by and many yachts have sailed out of the harbor. It’s my last night after two weeks on the island, and I am having dinner at Santa Fé, a perennial favorite French- Creole restaurant, and one of the oldest restaurants on the island (of more than 50 years). The menu has remained virtually unchanged for decades — it even still has the same tank holding freshly caught lobster to make perfectly grilled langouste . Reflecting on the island’s return, I’m reminded that the new and the old can live in perfect harmony. St Barths isn’t going anywhere; in fact, one might say this comeback has given the island a whole new lease on life.

During the repair and renovation, preventing damage from another hurricane was top of mind. The Sand Bar’s deck, which sits right on the beach, was raised by three feet; and actual submarine doors (painted in Eden Rock’s signature red, of course) access the hotel’s kitchen, fitness room and electrical room, but can also be sealed shut to protect each room fromwater damage. Guest feedback has been amazing, according toMoizan. When the hotel announced inMay 2019 that it was reopening in November, it was fully booked for festive season in less than two weeks. Eden Rock might be celebrating its return, but not every hotel is up and running yet. This spring, the brand-newHôtel Barrière Le Carl Gustaf (formerly an independently owned boutique hotel) will open its doors. Its bar, Shellona, has been open since December 2016, giving guests a glimpse into the luxurious transformation of the property. On the other, quieter side of the island, Le Guanahani will open in October. It’s one of the island’s oldest hotels, and it is situated on a private peninsula with residential-style rooms and suites. Hotels and restaurants are adding finishing touches, including LVMH-owned Cheval Blanc St-Barth, which recently debuted a newwing of suites. Many new restaurants have also recently opened, including Victoria and Fish Corner in Gustavia and Al Mare at Le Sereno, helmed by Raffaele Lenzi, who runs the restaurant at the hotel’s sister property in Lake Como, Italy. Whether you’re in downtown Gustavia or enjoying St Jean (a charming town that’s home to Eden Rock, plenty of beach clubs and idyllic beaches), the entire island feels fresh and new. With the island’s incredible resurgence, concerns about over- development have plagued locals. After speaking withMagras, these fears seem unfounded. “Sixty-five percent of the island will not be buildable,” Magras says. “Too much development will kill what we have. It’s difficult to maintain the success we have without going too far, but the final goal is to keep what justifies the success of the island: social stability, cleanliness, safety, great hotels and great French gastronomy.” With increased tourism, the president is mapping out a plan to improve all aspects of St Barths. This includes putting unsightly electrical lines underground; securing the roads (anyone who has driven